Yorkshire’s Wensleydale Walk

The Wensleydale walk is perhaps Yorkshire’s most beautiful valley walk—a 15-mile journey through one of England’s most spectacular landscapes. From the historic town of Ripon through rolling countryside, picturesque villages, and wild moorland to the market town of Hawes, this walk offers the perfect combination of natural beauty, heritage, and practical amenities.

This guide reveals everything about the Wensleydale walk, from practical planning to essential stops, photography tips, and historical context that makes this walk so special.

Planning the Wensleydale Walk

Distance and Time

Distance: 15 miles (24 km) from Ripon to Hawes
Time: 5-7 hours walking time, depending on fitness and time spent in villages
Difficulty: Moderate—long but generally flat or gently undulating
Walking surface: Good paths, largely flat or grassy tracks, can be muddy after rain

Direction

Most walkers choose Ripon to Hawes for practical reasons:

Ripon is a major town with excellent facilities
Public transport connects Ripon to various points along the route
The route flows naturally westward with the prevailing wind

You can walk Hawes to Ripon, but this means you’ll have the prevailing wind in your face for most of the walk.

Transport Options

By Car:

Park in Ripon (pay-and-display car parks, approximately £5-7 for day)
Various villages have parking (usually free but limited)
Hawes has several car parks (approximately £4-6 for day)

By Public Transport:

Ripon: On main railway line, regular services from Leeds, York, and Harrogate
Hawes: On the Leeds-Settle line, regular services from Leeds and Yorkshire
Bus services: Some villages (West Witton, Horton-in-Ribblesdale) have bus services, but they’re infrequent

Walking the Linear Way:

For multi-day walks, the Dales Way connects Ripon and Hawes, allowing you to walk to Hawes one day and return by public transport another day

When to Go

Best Seasons:

Spring (April-May): Good weather, wildflowers, lush green countryside, fewer walkers
Summer (June-August): Best weather, but busier. Early morning starts help avoid crowds.
Autumn (September-October): Beautiful autumn colours, crisp air, comfortable walking weather
Winter (November-March): Quietest time, but days are short, weather can be harsh, and some facilities are closed

Best Time of Day:

Start early morning (8-9am) for best light and fewer people
Allow 2-3 hours before dark in winter, 3-4 hours in summer

Daylight Hours:

Start no later than 10am in winter to ensure you finish before dark
In summer, late afternoon walks are possible but arrive at your final destination with daylight

The Walk Route: Ripon to Hawes

Here’s the detailed route with key stops:

1. Ripon (Start Point)

The historic market town of Ripon has excellent facilities and makes the perfect starting point. The town has Georgian and Victorian architecture, a large market square, and good transport links.

Key Points:

Market Square: Historic heart of the town
Ripon Cathedral: Historic cathedral, worth a quick visit
Ripon Canal: Beautiful canal basin with boats and paths
Banks: Various banks for cash withdrawal

Facilities: Excellent—cafes, pubs, shops, toilets, transport links

Starting Point: Market Square is the natural starting point

2. Ripon Canal to Sharow (2 miles)

From Ripon Market Square, walk through the town to the canal basin. Follow the canal towpath westwards towards Sharow. The canal is beautiful, with boats and birds, and the towpath is good quality.

What to Expect: Flat walking along the canal, attractive boats and birdlife, peaceful atmosphere.

Time: Allow 30-40 minutes for this section

3. Sharow to West Witton (2.5 miles)

From the end of the canal towpath near Sharow, head westwards across fields towards West Witton. You’ll follow quiet country lanes and footpaths, with views across the countryside opening up.

What to Expect: Flat to gently undulating walking, quiet country lanes, increasingly open countryside and views.

Time: Allow 50-60 minutes for this section

4. West Witton to Middleham (2 miles)

West Witton is a pretty village with a pub and village shop. Take a short break here before continuing through the countryside to Middleham.

What to Expect: A charming village stop with good facilities, then flat countryside walking with expanding views.

Time: Allow 30 minutes in the village, then 40-50 minutes for the walking section

5. Middleham to Borrage (2.5 miles)

Middleham to Borrage passes through some of the Wensleydale’s most spectacular countryside. The walking is mainly flat or gently undulating, with increasingly dramatic views of the valley opening up on both sides.

What to Expect: Some of the most spectacular valley scenery, flat walking, expansive views across the dale.

Time: Allow 50-60 minutes for this section

6. Borrage to Hawes (4 miles)

The final section from Borrage to Hawes covers beautiful countryside and enters more populated areas as you approach the market town. The walking is generally easy, with some gentle undulations.

What to Expect: Easier walking as you approach Hawes, beautiful countryside, increasing signs of habitation, market town facilities at the end.

Time: Allow 1 hour for this section

Essential Stops Along the Way

The Black Bull, West Witton

A traditional pub serving good food and local ales. Stop here for lunch or a refreshment if you want a break in West Witton.

Location: Main street, West Witton

The Middleham Inn

A traditional pub in a beautiful village setting. Stop here if you need refreshments or a break in Middleham.

Location: Main street, Middleham

The Fountaine Inn, Hawes

A historic pub at the end of your walk, perfect for celebrating completing the Wensleydale walk. Good food and local ales.

Location: Main street, Hawes

Additional Cafés and Tearooms

Ripon: Various cafés and bakeries in the market square area West Witton: Village shop and possibly a small café Middleham: Village shop and possibly a small café Borrage: Limited facilities, but Hawes has extensive choices

Historical Context

The Wensleydale walk passes through a landscape shaped by centuries of human activity:

Medieval Period: The villages along the route have medieval origins, with churches and settlement patterns dating from this period.

Georgian and Victorian Development: Many buildings in Ripon, West Witton, and Hawes date from the 18th and 19th centuries, reflecting the area’s prosperity during this period.

Agricultural Landscape: The valley has been farmed and grazed for centuries, creating the beautiful pastoral landscape you see today.

Industrial Heritage: The area has a history of lead mining and other industries, though these have largely left their mark only in place names and occasional industrial remains.

Understanding this historical context enriches the walk, turning a beautiful landscape into a palimpsest of human activity over centuries.

Walking the Wensleydale: A Day’s Itinerary

Early Morning (8:00-9:30): Start in Ripon, walk the canal section to Sharow

Mid-Morning (9:30-11:00): Sharow to West Witton

Midday (11:00-13:00): West Witton to Middleham, with a lunch break in West Witton or Middleham

Afternoon (13:00-15:30): Middleham to Borrage, the most scenic section of the walk

Late Afternoon (15:30-16:30): Borrage to Hawes

Evening (16:30 onwards): Celebrate in Hawes, perhaps with dinner at The Fountaine Inn

This is a relaxed itinerary that allows plenty of time for photography, breaks, and enjoying the villages along the way.

Photography Tips

The Canal Section (Ripon to Sharow):

The canal boats make excellent subjects, especially in the morning light
The canal towpath is lined with trees and hedgerows, particularly beautiful in spring
The reflections in the canal are photogenic, especially in still conditions

Middleham to Borrage Section:

This is perhaps the most scenic section of the walk, with expansive views across the valley
Use a wide-angle lens to capture the valley’s scale and the sense of open countryside
The views are particularly dramatic when the valley is bathed in side-light

The Villages:

West Witton, Middleham, and Borrage are photogenic villages, especially in the golden hour light
The combination of stone buildings, village greens, and surrounding countryside is classic Dales scenery

Weather Considerations:

Overcast days can be better than bright sun for landscape photography, providing even light and revealing detail
After rain, the colours are richer and the light is softer

Equipment Checklist

Essential:

Sturdy walking boots or comfortable walking shoes with good grip
Waterproof jacket and overtrousers (the weather is changeable in the Dales)
Water and snacks (15 miles is a long way without regular stops)
Mobile phone (with map downloaded) and/or paper map
Cash (some places are small and may not take cards)

Useful:

Sunscreen and hat (even on overcast days, UV levels can be high)
Camera or smartphone for photos
Spare socks (your feet will appreciate this after 15 miles)
Blister plasters (just in case)
Insect repellent (midges can be bad in summer)

Safety Considerations

Weather:

Check the weather forecast before you go
The weather can change quickly in the Dales
Be prepared for rain, wind, and cooler temperatures than forecast

Navigation:

The route is generally well-signposted, but carry a map
Have the map downloaded on your phone or a paper backup
Know your route before you start

Walking Safety:

Walk at your own pace
Take breaks when you need them
Don’t push yourself, especially in hot weather
Stay hydrated
Be careful on roads if they’re busy (some sections use minor roads)

Countryside Considerations:

Follow the country code: close gates behind you, keep dogs under control, take your litter with you
Respect livestock (don’t feed or disturb animals)
Be considerate of local residents and other walkers

Practical Tips

Public Toilets:

Available in Ripon (market square area) and Hawes
Limited or no public toilets between Ripon and Hawes
Use facilities in villages, cafés, or pubs along the way

Water Refills:

Available in Ripon and Hawes
Some villages might have public water fountains or taps
Carry enough water for a 15-mile walk

Food and Drink:

Plan ahead with packed lunches and snacks
Support local cafés and pubs in the villages along the way
The Fountaine Inn in Hawes is an excellent place for a celebratory dinner at the end

Accommodation (if needed):

Ripon has numerous hotels, B&Bs, and guest houses
Hawes also has accommodation options
Other villages have limited accommodation but some B&Bs and guest houses

Seasonal Considerations

Spring (March-May):

Weather: Good to variable, improving through the season
Pros: Wildflowers in spring, lush green countryside, fewer walkers
Cons: Some paths can be muddy after winter rain
Overall: Excellent time to walk, especially in May

Summer (June-August):

Weather: Generally good to very good, the warmest months
Pros: Longest daylight hours, best weather, lush green countryside
Cons: Busiest time, especially weekends and holidays. Paths can be drier
Overall: Good weather but expect more people. Start early morning to avoid crowds.

Autumn (September-November):

Weather: Good to variable, cooling down towards winter
Pros: Beautiful autumn colours, crisp air, fewer crowds than summer
Cons: Shorter daylight hours, weather becoming more variable
Overall: An excellent time to walk, especially for photography

Winter (December-February):

Weather: Variable to poor, can be cold, wet, and windy
Pros: Fewest people, winter landscape can be atmospheric
Cons: Shortest daylight hours, coldest temperatures, some facilities may have limited hours
Overall: For the hardy and well-prepared, winter walking can be beautiful, but be prepared for challenging conditions

Combining the Wensleydale Walk with Other Activities

Ripon:

Visit the cathedral (donation suggested)
Explore the canal basin and town
Visit the museum or local attractions

West Witton:

Explore the village and its church
Enjoy a meal at The Black Bull

Middleham:

Visit the village and its church
Walk around the village and explore the surrounding countryside

Borrage:

Walk around the village
Enjoy the spectacular views
Explore the surrounding countryside if you have time

Hawes:

Visit the market square and explore the town
Enjoy a meal at The Fountaine Inn
Use Hawes as a base for exploring the wider area

A Final Thought

The Wensleydale walk is one of Yorkshire’s most beautiful experiences—a 15-mile journey through some of England’s most spectacular countryside. From the historic market town of Ripon through rolling countryside and picturesque villages to the market town of Hawes, this walk offers the perfect combination of natural beauty, heritage, and practical amenities.

The key to enjoying the Wensleydale walk is to plan properly, walk at your own pace, and take time to appreciate the scenery. The Middleham to Borrage section is particularly spectacular, with expansive views across the valley that are some of the finest in Yorkshire.

The walk is also about more than just the scenery—it’s about the villages you pass through, the history of the landscape you walk through, and the sense of crossing a valley from one side to the other. It’s a journey that connects places and people, creating a sense of accomplishment when you reach Hawes.

So plan your Wensleydale walk, prepare properly, and enjoy one of Yorkshire’s most beautiful walking experiences. The valley will reward you with spectacular scenery, charming villages, and a sense of accomplishment that only comes from walking across a landscape.

This guide reveals everything about the Yorkshire Wensleydale walk, from practical planning and route details to historical context and photography tips. The Wensleydale walk is one of Yorkshire’s most beautiful valley walks, offering spectacular scenery, charming villages, and practical amenities across a 15-mile journey from Ripon to Hawes.

Yorkshire's Wensleydale Walk