Perfect 5-Day Yorkshire Dales Itinerary: Winter Fells and Fireside Pubs

Five winter days in the Yorkshire Dales is when the landscape shows its wild side. The fells are dusted with snow, the villages are quiet, and the pubs are at their coziest. This itinerary balances outdoor walking with indoor attractions—caves, castles, and fireside inns.

Winter brings short days (sunset around 4:00 PM in December) and challenging weather, but also empty trails, dramatic light, and the satisfaction of a pint by a roaring fire.

Day 1: Malham Cove and Gordale Scar

Morning: Malham Cove (9:00 AM - 12:30 PM)

Malham Cove, Malham BD23 4DJ
Parking: Malham National Park Centre — £4 for 4 hours, £6 all day

A huge curved limestone cliff face, 80 metres high. In winter, the cove is dramatic and empty.

The walk:

The base of the cove—look up at the sheer limestone wall
The steps to the top—400 stone steps (can be icy in winter)
The limestone pavement—frozen grikes, dramatic views

Winter tip: The peregrine falcons are still hunting. Watch from the base.

Lunch: The Buck Inn, Malham (12:30 PM)

The Buck Inn, Malham BD23 4DA
Price: £12-20 for lunch
Phone: 01729 830214

Pub with a roaring fire. Winter menu: Yorkshire beef stew, local sausages.

Afternoon: Gordale Scar (2:00 PM - 4:30 PM)

Gordale Scar—a dramatic limestone gorge.

The walk: From Malham, follow the path to Gordale Scar (2 miles). In winter, the waterfalls are powerful and the gorge is atmospheric.

Winter caution: The path can be icy—wear boots with good grip.

Evening: Dinner at The Lister Arms (7:00 PM)

The Lister Arms, Malham BD23 4DB
Price: £20-35 for dinner
Phone: 01729 830426

Gastropub with rooms. Fire, winter menu: game pie, sticky toffee pudding.

Day 2: White Scar Caves and Ingleton

Morning: White Scar Caves (10:00 AM - 12:30 PM)

White Scar Caves, Ingleton LA6 3AW
Entry: £14 adults
Open: 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM (winter hours)

Britain's longest show cave. In winter, the caves are warmer than outside!

The tour: 80-minute guided walk. Highlights:

The Battlefield—thousands of stalactites
The Frozen Waterfall—a flowstone cascade
The Witch's Fingers—delicate formations

Winter highlight: The caves are a constant 8°C—escape the cold.

Lunch: The Marton Arms (12:30 PM)

The Marton Arms, Thornton in Lonsdale LA6 3PB
Price: £12-20 for lunch
Phone: 015242 41228

Pub near the caves. Fire, real ales, hearty winter food.

Afternoon: Ingleton Waterfalls Trail (2:30 PM - 5:00 PM)

Ingleton Waterfalls Trail, Ingleton LA6 3ET
Entry: £9 adults

A 4.5-mile circular trail through woodland and past waterfalls.

Winter highlights:

The falls are powerful after winter rain
Ice formations on the cascades on cold days
Empty paths—you'll have the trail to yourself

Winter caution: The trail can be slippery—wear boots.

Evening: Dinner at The Masons Arms (7:00 PM)

The Masons Arms, Strawberry Bank, Cartmel Fell LA11 6NW
Price: £30-50 for dinner
Book: 015395 68486

Gastropub with views. Winter menu: venison, local beef.

Day 3: Hawes and Wensleydale

Morning: Wensleydale Creamery (10:00 AM - 12:00 PM)

Wensleydale Creamery, Gayle Lane, Hawes DL8 3RN
Entry: £5 (includes tasting)

The home of Yorkshire Wensleydale cheese.

The tour: See the cheese-making, taste the varieties.

The shop: Buy cheese—the mature Wensleydale is perfect for winter.

Lunch: The White Hart Inn, Hawes (12:30 PM)

The White Hart Inn, Main Street, Hawes DL8 3LZ
Price: £12-20 for lunch
Phone: 01969 667321

Pub in the highest market town in England. Fire, real ales, Yorkshire food.

Afternoon: Aysgarth Falls (2:30 PM - 5:00 PM)

Aysgarth Falls, Aysgarth DL8 3TH
Parking: £3 all day

A triple-decker waterfall on the River Ure.

Winter highlights:

The falls are spectacular after rain
Ice formations on cold days
Empty—you'll have the falls to yourself

The walk: Follow the Upper, Middle, and Lower Falls—a 2-mile circular walk.

Evening: Dinner at The Wensleydale Heifer (7:00 PM)

The Wensleydale Heifer, West Witton DL8 4LS
Price: £30-50 for dinner
Book: 01969 622322

Gastropub with a reputation for seafood. Winter menu: game, local beef.

Day 4: Bolton Castle and Redmire

Morning: Bolton Castle (10:00 AM - 12:30 PM)

Bolton Castle, Redmire DL8 4ET
Entry: £12 adults
Open: 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM (winter hours)

A 14th-century fortress where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned.

Winter highlights:

The castle is heated—warm escape from the cold
Empty—you'll have the castle to yourself
The Great Chamber—where Mary was held
The battlements—snow-covered views over Wensleydale

Lunch: The Bolton Arms, Redmire (12:30 PM)

The Bolton Arms, Redmire DL8 4EW
Price: £12-20 for lunch
Phone: 01969 623186

Village pub near the castle. Fire, real ales, hearty food.

Afternoon: The Wensleydale Railway (2:30 PM - 5:00 PM)

The Wensleydale Railway, Redmire DL8 4ET
Return fare: £18 adults
Book: wensleydalerailway.com

A heritage railway through the heart of the Dales.

Winter highlights:

Steam trains on selected dates—coal smoke in cold air
Santa Specials in December
Empty carriages—peaceful journey

Evening: Dinner at The Angel Inn (7:00 PM)

The Angel Inn, Hetton BD23 6LT
Price: £40-60 for dinner
Book: 01756 730263
Michelin star

One of Yorkshire's finest restaurants. Winter tasting menu: game, local cheeses.

Day 5: Settle and the Ribblehead Viaduct

Morning: Settle (10:00 AM - 12:30 PM)

Settle, BD24 9EJ

A market town at the gateway to the Dales.

The Market—Tuesday (outdoor market).

The Shops—independent shops, cafes.

The Folly—17th-century house, now a museum (£5).

Lunch: The Lion at Settle (12:30 PM)

The Lion at Settle, Duke Street, Settle BD24 9DU
Price: £12-20 for lunch
Phone: 01729 822203

Historic coaching inn. Fire, real ales, Yorkshire food.

Afternoon: Ribblehead Viaduct (2:30 PM - 4:30 PM)

Ribblehead Viaduct, Ingleton LA6 3AS

The most iconic structure in the Dales—24 arches, 32 metres high.

Winter highlights:

Snow on the fells—spectacular backdrop
Steam trains—check the Settle-Carlisle line schedule
Empty—you'll have the viewpoint to yourself

The Station Inn—pub at Ribblehead with views of the viaduct and a roaring fire.

Evening: Departure or Dinner (5:00 PM)

Final drink: The Station Inn by the fire.

Departure: From Settle, the A65 connects to the M6.

Practical Information

Getting to the Yorkshire Dales

By Car:

A65 from Skipton—main road into the Dales
A1(M) then A684—from the north
Winter driving: Carry snow chains, check weather

By Train:

Skipton—Northern Rail from Leeds (40 mins)
Settle—Northern Rail from Leeds (1 hour)
The Settle-Carlisle Railway—scenic line

Winter Weather

December: 2-6°C, shortest days, mountain snow
January: 0-4°C, coldest month, lowest prices
February: 1-5°C, snow on the fells, longer days

Bring warm layers, waterproof boots, and a hat. Weather changes quickly.

Winter-Specific Tips

Check mountain forecasts: Met Office for high ground
Shorter days: Plan walks to finish before dark
Pubs are cozier: The Dales has excellent pubs with fires
Caves are warm: White Scar Caves is 8°C year-round

Money-Saving Tips

Winter hotel rates: 30-50% cheaper than summer
National Trust members: Free parking at Malham
YHA hostels: Excellent value in Malham and Hawes
Pub lunches: Often half the price of dinner

Sources and Verification

Yorkshire Dales National Park from yorkshiredales.org.uk
White Scar Caves from whitescarcave.co.uk
Bolton Castle from boltoncastle.co.uk
Wensleydale Railway from wensleydalerailway.com
Restaurant prices from current menus