Five Days in the Yorkshire Dales: Stone, Water, and Proper Pubs
The first thing you notice is the walls. Not the postcard-perfect cottages or the limestone cliffs—those come later. It's the dry stone walls, thousands of miles of them, marching over every fell and valley like they were built by obsessive giants. Which, in a way, they were. The Dales has been sheep country since the Vikings arrived, and those walls have been going up, falling down, and going up again for a thousand years.
I've been coming here for fifteen years, and I still can't explain the place properly. It's not the Lake District—no dramatic peaks reflected in still waters, no Wordsworth daffodils. The Dales is grittier, more workaday. Farmers still actually farm here. Villages exist because people live in them, not because tourists need tea shops. And yet—there's something about walking across limestone pavement with the wind coming off the fells, then descending into a pub that hasn't changed since 1750, where the landlord pulls a pint of Black Sheep and asks where you've walked today.
This itinerary assumes you like walking. Not extreme mountaineering, but proper days on your feet, finishing with aching legs and a well-earned pint. It assumes you're willing to get wet, because you will—either from the sky, which delivers rain on a schedule more reliable than the trains, or from the rivers, which are cold even in August. And it assumes you understand that the best moments aren't in the guidebooks. They're the conversations with the farmer who's rebuilding a wall, or the silence in a pub at 6 PM when everyone's just come in from the fields.
Day 1: Malham—Limestone and the First Proper Dip
Malham Cove sits 54.0714°N, -2.1577°W, which is another way of saying it's unmistakable. An 80-metre curved limestone cliff that looks like someone took a bite out of the earth. Harry Potter was filmed here, which means you'll see people in inappropriate footwear taking selfies at the top. Ignore them. The real business is the walk.
Getting There: Drive from Skipton on the A65, then the B6265. Takes 25 minutes if you don't get stuck behind a tractor, which you will. Park at the National Park Centre (BD23 4DA)—£4 for four hours, £6 all day. On weekends, this fills by 10 AM. Arrive at 8:30 AM, have a coffee from the van that sets up outside, and watch the cove wake up.
The Classic Circuit: Malham Cove, Gordale Scar, Janet's Foss
This 7.5-mile loop is the Dales' greatest hits in one day. I've done it twenty times, and it still delivers.
Start at the village and walk to the cove base—one mile on tarmac, gradually turning to track. The cliff face in morning light is something else, all those Jurassic-era sediments exposed like pages in a book. There are 400 steps to the top, built by the Victorians and maintained by the National Park. Take them slowly. At the top, you're walking on limestone pavement—a Site of Special Scientific Interest, which means don't pocket the rocks. The RSPB usually has a peregrine viewing station here in summer; the falcons nest on the cliff face. I've watched them hunt, dropping like stones onto pigeons below.
From the cove, follow the path to Gordale Scar, two miles across fields. The scar is a limestone ravine, 100 metres of overhanging rock that feels like entering another world. The path goes through it—scrambling over boulders, sometimes wading through water. Waterproof boots with proper grip are non-negotiable. I've seen people turn back in trainers, and they're right to. If you're not confident on wet rock, admire the scar from the entrance and return the way you came. No shame in that.
Lunch: The Buck Inn, Malham
Back in the village for 12:30 PM. The Buck (01729 830317) is what a Dales pub should be: stone floors, low beams, local beer. The ploughman's with Wensleydale cheese is £12.95, substantial enough to fuel an afternoon. They do a decent steak and ale pie too. The beer garden has views toward the cove, though in my experience, the best spot is inside at the bar, chatting with the regulars.
Afternoon: Janet's Foss and the Swim
One mile from the village, Janet's Foss is where Gordale Beck drops over a limestone ledge into a deep pool. The name comes from a fairy queen, supposedly. What I know is that the water is consistently 15°C, even in August. Refreshing is one word for it.
The pool sits in a natural amphitheatre, overhung with trees. You can swim behind the waterfall—there's a ledge back there where you can stand, the water thundering inches from your face. I do this every summer. The procedure is: test the water with your foot, commit quickly, swim to the falls, stay in for exactly three minutes (any longer and you go numb), then dry off on the rocks with a thermos of tea.
Walk back to Malham via the Pennine Way footpath, completing the circuit. Total time: 4-5 hours including the swim and lunch.
Evening: The Lister Arms
The Lister (01729 830330) is the posh option, relatively speaking. It's a gastropub with rooms, and they take their food seriously. The grilled Yorkshire trout at £24 is excellent—caught locally, cooked simply. The summer vegetable risotto at £18.50 will do if you're avoiding meat. Book ahead in summer; they fill up.
Stay: Malham Smithy B&B
01729 830463. £100-£140 per night, double room including breakfast. It's a stone cottage with low doors—watch your head—and the owners know every walk in the area. The breakfast is proper: local bacon, eggs from the hens out back, toast made from bread baked in Skipton. Tell them where you're walking and they'll suggest alternatives if the weather turns.
Day 2: Aysgarth Falls and the Ure Valley
Aysgarth Falls sits at 54.2847°N, -1.9925°W on the River Ure. It's a triple-flight waterfall—Upper, Middle, and Lower—spread over a mile of riverside woodland. Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves was filmed here, which means you'll hear people saying "Robin Hood!" at the Middle Falls, where Kevin Costner had his fight scene. The falls are impressive enough without Hollywood.
Getting There: From Malham, take the B6265 to Settle, then the A65 north to Gargrave, then the A59 and A684 to Aysgarth. About 50 minutes. Park at the National Park Centre (DL8 3TH)—free, though donations keep it that way.
The walk between the three falls is 1.5 miles on a maintained path. In summer, the woodland canopy is full, providing shade on hot days. The Middle Falls are the most photographed; the Upper Falls are quieter, with good picnic spots. The Lower Falls are where the river broadens and slows.
If you want more, extend to West Burton (add 2.5 miles). The village has its own waterfall—Cauldron Falls—where the Walden Beck drops into a pool that's perfect for swimming. Less crowded than Janet's Foss, and the village has a proper baker who makes excellent pork pies.
Lunch: The Falls Café
At the National Park Centre. 01969 663424. It's a simple operation: sandwiches, soup, cake. The Wensleydale cheese and chutney sandwich (£7.50) is solid, and they sell ice cream from local dairies (£3.50). Eat outside if the weather's decent—there's a terrace overlooking the falls.
Afternoon: Bolton Castle
Drive from Aysgarth to Bolton Castle (54.3222°N, -1.9500°W). Redmire, Leyburn DL8 4ET. 01969 623981. Open 10 AM–5 PM in summer. £12.50 adults, £6 children.
This is one of England's best-preserved medieval castles, built in 1399. Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned here for six months in 1568. The castle has the usual displays— armour, history boards—but the real draw is the setting. The medieval gardens are at their best in summer: heritage fruit trees, herb beds, wildflower meadows. On summer weekends, they run falconry displays—watching a goshawk circle the castle walls against the backdrop of the Dales is worth the admission alone.
Evening: Hawes
Drive to Hawes, the highest market town in England at 850 feet above sea level. This will be your base for two nights.
Dinner: The White Hart Inn
01969 667321, Main Street. It's a historic coaching inn that hasn't gone too gastro. The beer-battered fish and chips (£16.95) uses fish from Whitby, batter made with beer from the Great Yorkshire Brewery in town. The summer salad with local cheese (£12.50) is decent if you're being healthy. They have Hawes-brewed bitter on tap.
Stay: Herriot's Guest House
7 Main Street, 01969 667251. £85-£110 per night. Family-run, clean, and the breakfast will keep you walking all day. The owners are proper Yorkshire—direct, efficient, and helpful if you ask. Tell them Finn sent you; I've stayed here half a dozen times.
Day 3: Cheese, Waterfalls, and a Proper Pass
Morning: Wensleydale Creamery
Gayle Lane, Hawes. 01969 667664. Open 9 AM–5 PM daily. The viewing gallery is free; guided tours are £8.50.
This is where Wensleydale cheese is made—over 3,000 tonnes annually. You can watch the cheese-makers through glass windows, though the real draw is the history. Wensleydale has been made here since the 12th century, when Cistercian monks brought the recipe from France. The creamery was dying in the 1990s until Wallace and Gromit declared it their favourite cheese. True story. The "Wallace & Gromit" display is in the shop, which sells every variety they make: white, smoked, with cranberries, with mango and ginger.
The Tuesday market in Hawes has been running since 1699. It's small but genuine—farmers selling livestock, locals buying hardware. Summer brings tourists, but it hasn't turned into a craft market yet. There's a deli on the main street that sells excellent pork pies.
Lunch: The Stone House
Main Street, Hawes. 01969 667392. Wednesday–Sunday, 12 PM–2 PM. This is the fancy option—tasting menus, wine list, the lot. The tasting menu at £45 is good value if you're celebrating. The Yorkshire Dales lamb rump at £26 is properly cooked, pink in the middle, served with vegetables from their garden. Book essential.
Afternoon: Hardraw Force
54.3231°N, -2.2053°W. Access is through The Green Dragon Inn. 01969 667259. £4 adults, £2 children. Open 10 AM–5 PM.
This is England's highest single-drop waterfall—30 metres of water plunging into a natural amphitheatre. J.M.W. Turner painted it in 1816; he wasn't wrong about the drama. The pool beneath is deep and cold—maybe 12°C even in August. Swimming here is proper bracing. The natural amphitheatre creates an echo; the sound of the falls bounces off the rock walls.
The Green Dragon itself is worth a stop. It's been here since the 13th century, and it feels like it. Low ceilings, dark wood, beer served in proper measures.
Optional: Buttertubs Pass
If you're driving and the weather's clear, return to Hawes via Buttertubs Pass. It climbs to 1,700 feet with views across Wensleydale and Swaledale. The Tour de France came through here in 2014; the road is steep, winding, and spectacular. Avoid if it's wet or foggy—this is not a place to learn about mountain driving.
Evening: The Bay Tree
4 Main Street, Hawes. 01969 667200. Wednesday–Saturday, 6 PM–9 PM. This is fine dining in the Dales, which means excellent ingredients cooked well without pretension. The tasting menu with wine pairing (£65) is a splurge, but the Yorkshire beef fillet (£32) is worth every penny. The beef comes from farms visible from the restaurant windows. Book essential.
Day 4: Ribblehead and the Waterfalls Trail
Morning: Ribblehead Viaduct
54.2103°N, -2.3708°W. From Hawes, take the B6255 toward Ingleton, 25 minutes. Park at the viaduct car park—free.
The viaduct is Victorian engineering at its most dramatic: 24 arches spanning 400 metres across Batty Moss. It took 4,000 navvies four years to build (1870-1874). Over a hundred died—accidents, disease, the harsh conditions. There are unmarked graves in the surrounding moorland. The Settle-Carlisle Railway still runs across it; in summer, steam specials operate on selected dates. Check the railway website, time your visit right, and you'll see a steam train crossing against the backdrop of Ingleborough.
The walking options range from easy (stroll beneath the arches, 30 minutes) to ambitious (the full Yorkshire Three Peaks—Pen-y-ghent, Whernside, and Ingleborough, 24 miles, 12 hours). I've done the Three Peaks twice. It's a serious undertaking—5,200 feet of ascent, rough terrain, weather that can change in minutes. If you're tempted, go with an organised group and start at 6 AM.
Lunch: The Station Inn
Ribblehead, 015242 41244. This is a walkers' pub—boots welcome, dogs welcome, muddy waterproofs welcome. The steak and ale pie (£15.95) is substantial post-walk food. They have Timothy Taylor's Landlord on tap. The beer garden has direct views of the viaduct. I've spent many afternoons here, watching trains and clouds.
Afternoon: Ingleton Waterfalls Trail
54.1536°N, -2.4722°W. Start at Broadwood Entrance, Ingleton. LA6 3EG. 015242 41245. £10 adults, £5 children, cash only. Open 9 AM–6 PM in summer.
This is a 4.5-mile circular through ancient oak woodland, taking in six waterfalls. The path is well-maintained but involves significant steps and climbs. Allow 2.5–3 hours. You walk up one river valley, down another, through trees that were here before the Normans.
The falls: Pecca (five cascades), Hollybush Spout (narrow drop), Thornton Force (the highlight—14 metres over limestone bedrock), Beezley (the "Triple Spout"), Rival (named for a boundary dispute), and Snow (foaming white water). Several pools are swimmable; Thornton Force below the drop is the best, though the water is cold enough to take your breath away.
The trail is one-way for conservation. Follow the signs. Bring water; there are no facilities on the route.
Evening: Ingleton
Dinner: The Masons Arms
Main Street, Ingleton. 015242 41244. Traditional village pub with rooms. Lancashire hotpot (£14.50) done properly—lamb shoulder, potatoes on top, baked until the top is crisp. Eton mess (£6.95) for after. They have outdoor seating for summer evenings.
Stay: YHA Ingleton
Sammy Lane, 0345 371 9724. £25-£45 per night. I know, hostels aren't for everyone. But this one is clean, the self-catering kitchen is well-equipped, and the location is perfect. The summer barbecue area gets lively on warm evenings. Bring earplugs if you're in a shared room—snoring walkers are louder than you'd think.
Day 5: Underground and the Long Goodbye
Morning: White Scar Cave
54.1492°N, -2.4858°W. Ingleton, LA6 3AW. 015242 41244. Open 10 AM–5 PM in summer. £12.50 adults, £9.50 children. Tours last 80 minutes.
This is Britain's longest show cave—over 6 kilometres of passages, though the tour covers 1.6 kilometres. The temperature is a constant 8°C year-round, which means bring a jumper even if it's 25°C outside. The formations have names: the Battlefield (thousands of stalactites looking like an army), the Witch (a profile in rock), the Frozen Waterfall (flowstone over 10 metres high). The final chamber has an underground waterfall that you hear before you see.
Summer is busy—arrive before 10 AM to avoid queues. The café does decent ice cream, made locally.
Midday: Grassington
Drive to Grassington (54.0714°N, -1.9978°W). It's a 20-minute drive from Ingleton.
Grassington is the Dales village that tourists imagine: cobbled square, stone cottages, shops selling local crafts. It was the filming location for the recent All Creatures Great and Small series. In July/August, there's a Summer Festival—music, arts, events. The National Park Centre has good maps and local information.
Lunch: The Devonshire Inn
The Square, Grassington. 01756 752511. The Yorkshire pudding wrap with roast beef (£11.95) is their invention—Sunday dinner wrapped in a massive Yorkshire pud. It works. Eat it in the beer garden overlooking the square.
Afternoon: Linton Falls and the Final Swim
Two miles from Grassington on a gentle circular walk. The River Wharfe tumbles over limestone shelves here, creating pools that are perfect for a final swim. The water is deep and clear; the falls create a natural jacuzzi effect. There's a grassy bank for drying off, and usually fewer people than at Janet's Foss.
Walk back to Grassington via the riverside path. Stop at the bookshop on Main Street—they stock local guidebooks and maps you won't find elsewhere.
Evening: The Foresters Arms
8 Main Street, Grassington. 01756 752622. This is my favourite Dales pub, and I've been to most of them. It's been here since the 17th century, and it feels like the 21st century has only partially arrived. Stone floors, open fire even in summer, locals playing dominoes in the corner. The Dales lamb burger (£15.95) is excellent. The local cheese board (£12.50) features Wensleydale, of course, plus other Yorkshire cheeses. Summer fruit Eton mess (£6.95) to finish.
This is where I end every Dales trip. One last pint of bitter, watching the light fade over the village square, planning when I'll come back.
The Practical Stuff
When to Go
June is best—longest days, wildflowers in the meadows, the midges haven't arrived yet. July and August are warmer but busier, especially during school holidays. September can be glorious—heather on the moors, fewer people, still-long evenings.
Weather: It's the Dales. Pack waterproofs even if the forecast is clear. I've had all four seasons in one day here.
Getting Around
You need a car. Public transport exists—the Settle-Carlisle Railway is spectacular, and DalesBus runs Sunday services in summer—but you'll be severely limited without your own wheels. The roads are narrow, often single-track with passing places. Take your time. Let the locals pass; they know every bend.
Fuel up in Skipton, Leyburn, or Hawes. Petrol stations are scarce in the National Park.
What to Bring
Waterproof jacket. Walking boots with ankle support—the limestone is rough, and the paths are often wet. Swimming costume and towel. Sun hat and sunscreen—there's little shade on the fells. Light fleece for evenings. Torch for early starts. First aid kit with blister plasters.
Carry at least two litres of water on long walks. There are streams, but they're not always safe to drink from.
Safety
Tell someone your route and expected return time. Phone signal is patchy—don't rely on it.
Wild swimming: Never jump in without checking depth and submerged rocks. The cold will take your breath away—acclimatise slowly. Don't swim after heavy rain; water levels rise quickly.
Livestock: Keep dogs on leads around sheep. Close gates behind you. Don't get between cows and their calves.
Where to Eat (Summary)
Malham: The Buck Inn (traditional, £12-15), The Lister Arms (gastro, £20-25) Hawes: The White Hart (pub, £13-17), The Stone House (fine dining, £26-45), The Bay Tree (fine dining, £32-65) Ribblehead: The Station Inn (walkers' pub, £12-16) Ingleton: The Masons Arms (traditional, £12-15) Grassington: The Foresters Arms (proper pub, £13-16)
Where to Stay (Summary)
Malham: Malham Smithy B&B (£100-140), YHA Malham (£25-45) Hawes: Herriot's Guest House (£85-110), The Wensleydale Hotel (£140-220) Ingleton: YHA Ingleton (£25-45), The Craven Heifer (£110-150)
Final Thoughts
The Yorkshire Dales isn't dramatic like the Lakes or wild like Scotland. It's something else—older, quieter, more working. The farmers here have been farming the same land for generations. The dry stone walls will outlast all of us. The pubs serve beer brewed in the next valley, and the locals will talk to you if you show genuine interest.
I've walked these paths in every season. I've been caught in storms on Ingleborough, swum in rivers so cold I couldn't feel my feet for an hour after, sat in pubs listening to stories about sheep and weather and the price of lamb. The Dales gets under your skin. Not in a romantic way—it's too honest for that. In a real way.
Come with proper boots and an open mind. Walk the paths, swim the rivers, drink the beer. Talk to the farmers rebuilding walls. Watch the peregrines. Listen to the silence on the fells.
Then come back. The walls will still be here.