Five Days in the Yorkshire Dales: A Walker's Guide to Autumn on England's Best-Kept Moorlands

The first time I visited Malham Cove in peak summer, I made two mistakes: arriving at midday and wearing white trainers. The place was a circus—coach parties, ice cream vans, someone flying a drone that sounded like an angry wasp. The limestone pavement on top? Packed with people doing yoga poses for Instagram. I left after twenty minutes, convinced the Dales were overrated.

I came back in late October on a Tuesday morning. Mist filled the valley. The cove rose from the fog like a frozen wave, and I had the limestone pavement to myself for two hours. That version of the Dales—the one where you can hear your own boots on rock and the occasional croak of a raven—is what this guide is about.

Autumn here isn't just about pretty colours, though you'll get those. It's about visiting when the place returns to itself. The heather blooms purple on the high moorlands from late August through September. The larch plantations turn gold in October. The summer crowds vanish, the midges die off, and the pubs light their fires. Most importantly, the Dales' famous limestone reveals itself—ancient, weathered, and indifferent to whether you showed up.

This itinerary assumes you have decent waterproof boots, a tolerance for unpredictable weather, and the sense to start early. October is the wettest month; pack accordingly.

When to Go: The Reality

September is your sweet spot. The heather's still blooming, daylight stretches until 7:30pm, and you'll catch the last of the hay meadows being cut. It's also when the midges finally give up.

October brings the best colour—gold larch, copper beech—but also the rain. Statistically, this is when the Dales get soaked. On the flip side, misty mornings are more frequent, and there's something deeply satisfying about retreating to a pub fire after eight miles of horizontal rain.

November is for purists. Daylight shrinks to 8 hours. First snow dusts the Three Peaks. Many attractions reduce hours or close entirely. But you'll have the place almost to yourself, and there's a particular bleak beauty to the moorlands when winter's approaching.

Temperature Reality Check:

• September: 10-18°C (pack layers)
• October: 7-14°C (expect rain, probably sideways)
• November: 4-9°C (full winter kit)

Sunset by November hits 4pm. If you're doing any serious walking, you need to be off the tops by 2:30pm at the latest. Carry a headtorch regardless. Every year, someone gets caught out.

Day 1: Malham—Limestone and Legends

Morning: Malham Cove and the Pavement

Coordinates: 54.0714°N, 2.1577°W Parking: Malham National Park Centre, BD23 4DA Cost: £6 all day Best time: Before 9am

I mentioned my summer disaster. Here's how to do it properly. Arrive early—I'm talking 7:30am if you can manage it. The car park that fills by 10am in August often has spaces at noon in October. The walk from the village to the cove base is a flat mile on tarmac, then the real work begins.

The steps up the left side of the cove are uneven, worn by centuries of boots, and can be slick with leaf mulch in autumn. Take your time. The reward is the limestone pavement on top—a Site of Special Scientific Interest that looks like a giant cracked it with a hammer and forgot to sweep up.

In autumn, fallen ash and sycamore leaves collect in the grikes (the cracks), creating natural mosaics. The Harry Potter connection (they filmed a scene from The Deathly Hallows here) means you'll see people wandering around looking for "the exact spot." It's all the exact spot. It's limestone. Walk carefully—the rock can be slippery, and a sprained ankle up here is a long limp back.

Photography Notes:

• Morning mist in the valley below: magical, unpredictable, worth the early start
• Late afternoon light on the cliff face: arrive by 3pm to scout positions
• The pavement itself: polarising filter cuts reflections, brings out leaf colours

Lunch: The Buck Inn

Address: Malham, Skipton BD23 4DA
Phone: 01729 830317
Hours: 12:00-21:00 (food)
Game pie: £16.95
Sticky toffee pudding: £6.95

Solid, unpretentious pub food. Stone floors, open fire, locals who look like they've been farming the same land since the Norman Conquest. The game pie in autumn is proper—local venison, pheasant, decent pastry. Don't skip the sticky toffee pudding; it's made on-site and arrives hot.

Afternoon: Janet's Foss and Gordale Scar

From The Buck, head north on the footpath toward Janet's Foss (54.0756°N, 2.1486°W). It's about a mile through woodland that turns properly golden in October. The fall itself is modest—maybe 8 feet of drop—but the pool beneath reflects the canopy beautifully when the leaves turn.

Continue upstream to Gordale Scar (54.0736°N, 2.1456°W). This is where it gets interesting. The path enters a limestone ravine that narrows until you're walking beside a stream with rock walls rising 100 feet on either side. The autumn light creates dramatic effects here—shadows are deeper, the occasional beam of sun cuts through dramatically.

Warning: The rock in Gordale Scar is perpetually damp. In autumn, with fallen leaves, it's genuinely treacherous. I've seen confident hikers slide on their backsides. Wear proper boots with grip. There's a scramble section near the end that gets you up to the moorland above; if you're not comfortable with exposed rock, turn back at the waterfall and return the way you came.

Evening: The Lister Arms

Address: Main Road, Malham BD23 4DB
Phone: 01729 830330
Slow-braised venison: £28.00
Apple crumble: £7.50
Booking: Essential for dinner

Step up from lunch—this is gastropub territory. Multiple fireplaces, exposed stone, the smell of woodsmoke clinging to your clothes before you even sit down. The venison in autumn comes from the Bolton Castle estate (you'll visit tomorrow). They cook it properly—pink in the middle, falling apart at the edges.

Stay: Malham Smithy B&B (01729 830463)
Price: £85-£110 B&B
Stone cottage, good breakfast, walking distance to everything. Book ahead—there aren't many beds in Malham.

Day 2: Wensleydale—Waterfalls and Working Farms

Morning: Aysgarth Falls

Coordinates: 54.2847°N, 1.9925°W
Parking: Aysgarth Falls National Park Centre
Cost: Free (donations)

The drive from Malham takes about 50 minutes via Settle and the A65. You'll pass through Gargrave and into Wensleydale proper—broader, greener, less dramatic than the southern Dales but with a lived-in feel that comes from being proper farming country.

Aysgarth Falls is three separate drops on the River Ure: Upper, Middle, and Lower. In autumn, the surrounding oak, ash, and beech woodland puts on a show. The falls themselves are less powerful than in spring (when snowmelt swells the river), but the calmer water creates better reflection opportunities for photography.

The National Park Centre has free maps and decent toilets. The staff know the current conditions—ask about slippery sections on the paths.

Walking Options:

• Easy: The three falls on the main path (2 miles, 1 hour)
• Moderate: Extend into Freeholders' Wood for autumn colour (3.5 miles, 2 hours)
• Photographer's route: Start at 7am for mist in the valley before the car park fills

Lunch: The Falls Café

Address: Aysgarth Falls National Park Centre
Hours: 10:00-16:00 (autumn)
Pumpkin soup: £6.50
Spiced apple cake: £4.25

Nothing fancy, but the soup is homemade and warming. Sit outside if it's dry—the view across the valley is decent, and you'll watch the various nationalities attempting to photograph the falls with varying degrees of success.

Afternoon: Bolton Castle and the Red Deer

Coordinates: 54.3222°N, 1.9500°W
Address: Redmire, Leyburn DL8 4ET
Admission: £12.50 adult
Hours: 10:00-16:00 (autumn)

The castle has stood since 1399, built by Richard le Scrope. The building itself is impressive—medieval, stone, properly fortified—but I come here in autumn for the red deer.

September and October are the rutting season. The stags bellow across the valley, a sound that carries for miles. You can watch from the castle grounds as they compete for hinds, antlers clashing, breath visible in cold morning air. It's one of England's few remaining wild experiences that hasn't been packaged for tourism.

The castle gardens also have heritage fruit trees that turn in autumn—apples, pears, medlars. If you're here in late October, you might catch the harvest display.

Evening: Hawes and The White Hart Inn

Drive to Hawes (about 30 minutes from Bolton Castle). This is Wensleydale's main settlement—a working market town with actual shops that sell things locals need, not just tourist tat.

The White Hart Inn Address: Main Street, Hawes DL8 3NL
Phone: 01969 667321
Beef and ale stew: £16.95
Blackberry and apple crumble: £6.50

Historic coaching inn with beams, open fire, the whole deal. The beef and ale stew uses Yorkshire beef and local ale—probably Black Sheep, brewed just down the road. This is comfort food done properly: not fancy, not trying to be, just solid.

Stay: The Wensleydale Hotel (01969 622093)
Price: £100-£160
Central, comfortable, good restaurant if you want to eat in.

Day 3: Heather Moorlands and Buttertubs Pass

Morning: Wensleydale Creamery

Address: Gayle Lane, Hawes DL8 3RN
Hours: 9:00-17:00
Cheese-making tours: £8.50

Yes, it's touristy. Yes, you should go anyway. This is where Wallace and Gromit's favourite cheese actually comes from. The viewing gallery shows the production process, and the shop is dangerous—especially in autumn when they roll out the cranberry Wensleydale for Christmas.

The cheese itself is crumbly, mild, slightly sweet. It pairs with fruitcake, apple pie, or just eaten in chunks while walking. I usually buy a wedge for the car and another to take home.

Lunch: The Stone House

Address: Main Street, Hawes DL8 3LU
Phone: 01969 667392
Game tasting menu: £48.00
Hours: Wed-Sun, 12:00-14:00, 18:00-21:00
Booking: Essential

This is serious food. The game tasting menu in autumn features whatever's in season—venison, pheasant, grouse, possibly hare. The chef knows what to do with it: cook it simply, let the meat speak, add seasonal vegetables that were in the ground that morning.

If you don't want the full tasting menu, the à la carte is excellent too. Just book ahead. This place fills up with locals who know what's what.

Afternoon: Buttertubs Pass

Coordinates: 54.3550°N, 2.2050°W

This is the afternoon you came for. The drive from Hawes to Muker over Buttertubs Pass climbs to 1,700 feet through some of England's finest moorland. In late August and September, the ling heather is in full purple bloom. Mile after mile of it, interrupted only by dry stone walls that march across the landscape in straight lines that defy the terrain.

The "buttertubs" themselves are deep limestone potholes beside the road—so named because farmers used to lower butter into them to keep cool on the way to market. They're impressive, but the real spectacle is the view: Wensleydale falling away behind you, Swaledale opening ahead, heather stretching to every horizon.

Photography Stops:

• The summit: park at the highest point, walk 50 metres from the car for panoramic shots
• The descent into Swaledale: multiple laybys, all good
• Muker village: traditional hay meadows, stone barns, possibly the most photogenic village in England

Warning: This road is narrow, winding, and has no barriers at the edges. In poor weather—fog, heavy rain, early snow—it's genuinely hazardous. If conditions are bad, turn back. The view isn't worth a write-off.

Return via the same route (the Oxnop Scar alternative is scenic but adds time) and head back to Hawes.

Evening: The Bay Tree

Address: 4 Main Street, Hawes DL8 3LZ
Phone: 01969 667200
Autumn tasting menu: £65.00
Hours: Wed-Sat, 18:00-21:00
Booking: Essential

Fine dining, Hawes-style. Tasting menu with wine pairings available. The autumn menu leans heavily on game and root vegetables—parsnips, celeriac, heritage carrots. This is a proper occasion meal; dress accordingly.

Day 4: Ribblehead and the Three Peaks

Morning: Ribblehead Viaduct

Coordinates: 54.2103°N, 2.3708°W
Parking: Ribblehead Viaduct car park (free)

The viaduct is Victorian engineering at its most dramatic: 24 arches, 100 feet high, built by hand by the navvies who lived and died building the Settle-Carlisle Railway. In autumn, with heather blooming on the surrounding moorland and morning mist filling the valleys, it's one of England's great sights.

Photography Tips:

• Early morning mist: Arrive before sunrise. The viaduct emerging from fog is spectacular.
• Steam trains: Check www.settle-carlisle.co.uk for autumn steam specials
• Heather foreground: The purple flowers bloom right up to the viaduct's base in September
• Golden hour: Late afternoon light illuminates the stone arches beautifully

The Station Inn (below) has a display about the navvies—thousands died building this line, many buried in unmarked graves on the moor. It's worth remembering while you're framing your shot.

Lunch: The Station Inn

Address: Ribblehead, Ingleton LA6 3AS
Phone: 015242 41244
Lamb hotpot: £15.95
Sticky ginger pudding: £6.95

Pub filled with railway memorabilia and navvy history. The lamb hotpot is substantial—Yorkshire lamb, potatoes on top, proper comfort food after a cold morning of photography. There's usually a fire going from September onwards.

Afternoon: Ingleton Waterfalls Trail

Coordinates: 54.1536°N, 2.4722°W
Admission: £10.00 (cash only)
Hours: 9:00-16:00 (autumn)

The trail is a 4.5-mile circular through ancient oak woodland that turns spectacular in autumn. The route follows the River Twiss and River Doe, passing multiple falls—the most impressive being Pecca Falls and Thornton Force.

In autumn, the reduced water flow (compared to spring) reveals more rock detail, and the golden canopy creates reflection opportunities in the calmer pools. Fallen leaves create natural abstracts on the water surface.

The path is well-maintained but can be slippery with leaf mulch. Good boots essential. Allow 3 hours for the full circuit; it's steeper than it looks on the map.

Evening: Ingleton

The Masons Arms Address: Main Street, Ingleton LA6 3EB
Phone: 015242 41244
Steak and kidney pudding: £15.50

Traditional village pub with home-cooked food. The steak and kidney pudding is proper suet pastry, heavy, filling, exactly what you want after a day of walking and waterfalls.

Stay: The Craven Heifer (015242 41288)
Price: £80-£120
Characterful inn, central, decent food if you can't be bothered to move.

Day 5: Grass Wood and Grassington

Morning: Grass Wood

Coordinates: 54.0714°N, 1.9978°W
Parking: Grass Wood car park (small, free) or Grassington National Park Centre

Your final day takes you to one of the Dales' finest ancient woodlands. Grass Wood is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, predominantly ash and oak with some of the trees dating back centuries. In autumn, the canopy turns gold and copper, and the limestone outcrops provide dramatic focal points.

The wood is excellent for fungi spotting in autumn—look for but don't pick. The Yorkshire Dales has rare species protected by law, and frankly, most wild mushrooms will either make you ill or kill you. Take photos instead.

Walking Options:

• Easy: Lower woodland paths (2 miles, 1.5 hours)
• Moderate: Full circuit with limestone outcrops (4 miles, 2.5 hours)
• Extended: Add Grassington Moor and lead mining remains (6 miles, 4 hours)

Birds are active in autumn—jays caching acorns, occasional woodcock erupting from underfoot. The clear autumn air means views from the upper woodland extend for miles.

Lunch: The Devonshire Inn

Address: The Square, Grassington BD23 5AQ
Phone: 01756 752511
Sausage and mash: £14.95
Toffee apple crumble: £6.95

Village pub in Grassington's main square. The sausages are local, the mash is proper, the onion gravy is thick. Nothing revolutionary, just done right. Sit by the window and watch tourists trying to navigate the narrow streets.

Afternoon: Grassington and Linton Falls

Grassington itself is worth a wander—cobbled square, stone cottages, independent shops that actually sell useful things alongside the inevitable fudge and postcards. In October, there's usually an Autumn Festival with craft stalls and local produce.

Linton Falls is a short walk from the village centre—follow the River Wharfe downstream for about a mile. The falls are surrounded by woodland that turns properly golden, and the reduced autumn flow creates different photographic opportunities compared to spring spate.

The walk is flat, easy, and a pleasant way to spend a final afternoon. If you want something more substantial, continue upriver to Burnsall (another 3 miles) or take the path to Grass Wood (if you didn't go this morning).

Farewell Dinner: The Foresters Arms

Address: 8 Main Street, Grassington BD23 5AA
Phone: 01756 752622
Slow-roasted pork belly: £18.95
Plum crumble: £6.50

Your final meal in the Dales. The Foresters is a proper local—farmers at the bar, open fire, dogs welcome. The pork belly is a generous portion, crackling included, with seasonal vegetables. The plum crumble uses local fruit.

Eat slowly. You've earned it.

The Practical Stuff

Getting Here

By Car:

• Leeds: A65 through Skipton (1 hour to southern Dales)
• Manchester: M66, A56, A682 (1 hour 15 minutes)
• York: A59 to Harrogate, A61, B6165 (1 hour 15 minutes)
• London: M1 north, A65 (4 hours)

Autumn Driving:

• Fallen leaves are slippery when wet—reduce speed on tree-lined sections
• The A684 and B6255 can see early snow in late October/November
• Shorter daylight means planning journeys carefully
• Always carry a coat; weather changes fast

By Train: The Settle-Carlisle Railway runs through the heart of the Dales. Leeds to Carlisle takes about 2.5 hours with stops at Settle, Horton-in-Ribblesdale, Ribblehead, and Dent. Autumn steam specials run on selected dates—book well ahead.

By Bus: DalesBus services run Sundays and bank holidays until late October. The DalesBus Explorer ticket (£12) offers unlimited travel. Check current timetables—services reduce dramatically in winter.

What to Pack

Essential:

• Waterproof jacket and trousers (not negotiable)
• Warm layers—fleece or down
• Walking boots with good grip (autumn = mud and wet leaves)
• Hat and gloves (October onwards)
• Head torch (essential—shorter days catch people out)

Photography:

• Tripod (for low light and long exposures)
• Polarising filter (cuts reflections, enhances autumn colours)
• Lens cloth (autumn rain and mist)
• Spare batteries (cold drains them faster)

Safety:

• Map and compass (or GPS with backup)
• Whistle
• First aid kit with blister plasters
• Emergency shelter (lightweight bivvy bag)

Where to Stay: Summary

Location	Accommodation	Phone	Price	Notes
Malham	Malham Smithy B&B	01729 830463	£85-£110	Stone cottage, great breakfast
Malham	YHA Malham	0345 371 9514	£18-£30	Drying room, self-catering
Hawes	The Wensleydale Hotel	01969 622093	£100-£160	Boutique, good restaurant
Hawes	Herriot's Guest House	01969 667251	£65-£85	Family-run, hearty breakfasts
Ingleton	The Craven Heifer	015242 41288	£80-£120	Characterful inn
Ingleton	YHA Ingleton	0345 371 9724	£18-£30	Self-catering, drying room

Weather Reality

October averages 15-18 rainy days. This isn't a deterrent—it's a feature. The Dales in rain has a particular atmosphere: mist in the valleys, water streaming off limestone, pubs full of steam and conversation. Just pack properly and embrace it.

Safety Notes

• Shorter days: Plan walks to finish by 3pm in October, 2pm in November
• Slippery conditions: Wet leaves on limestone are treacherous
• Fog: Can descend suddenly on high ground
• Hunting season: October-December is shooting season. Check for activity, stick to rights of way, keep dogs under control
• Stream crossings: Can be swollen after rain—don't take risks

Final Thoughts

The Yorkshire Dales in autumn isn't about ticking off sights or getting the perfect Instagram shot (though you'll get both). It's about experiencing a landscape that's been shaped by centuries of human labour and natural forces, at a time when the modern world temporarily retreats.

You'll walk through purple heather on moorlands where the only sounds are wind and curlews. You'll sit by pub fires and eat food made from ingredients that grew within ten miles. You'll get wet, probably, and cold, possibly, and you'll remember all of it more vividly than any summer holiday.

The Dales doesn't need your approval. It was here long before you arrived and will be here long after you leave. But if you show up with decent boots, appropriate expectations, and a willingness to experience weather as part of the adventure rather than an inconvenience, it might just give you something worth remembering.

See you on the tops.