Nottingham: The City Beneath the City — Caves, Feuding Pubs, and the Lace Market That Built an Empire
By Finn O'Sullivan, Irish storyteller and folklorist. I hunt for the narratives that do not make guidebooks—the pub legends, the family feuds, the neighborhood heroes. I believe every street corner has a story if you know who to ask. Nottingham is a city that rewards the curious and punishes the casual. This is what I found.
The Underground City: Nottingham's 800 Caves
Nottingham has a problem most cities would kill for: everyone already thinks they know it. Robin Hood, Sherwood Forest, the Sheriff. The name conjures a cartoon. But the real Nottingham is stranger, older, and considerably more interesting than the myth. It is a city built on sandstone caves, sustained by lace manufacturing, and sustained emotionally by a pub culture so ancient that some of the bars predate the printing press.
The first thing to understand is the ground beneath your feet. Nottingham sits on a bed of soft sandstone that has been hollowed out for over a thousand years. There are more than eight hundred known caves beneath the city, the largest network of man-made caves in Britain. Some were carved by medieval tanners who needed space to store urine for treating leather. Others were beer cellars, air-raid shelters, and illegal gambling dens.
City of Caves offers the most accessible entry point. The entrance is at the bottom of Garner's Hill Steps, next to Nottingham Contemporary, at 1A Garner's Hill, Nottingham NG1 1HF. Adult tickets cost £11, children aged 5–17 are £9, and concessions are £10. The ticket gives you unlimited annual entry from the date of purchase. The caves are open daily, and tours run regularly throughout the day. The guides will tell you which tunnels are still privately owned and which ones connect to pub cellars that landlords would rather you did not know about. The contrast is exactly the point: a 14th-century underground world accessed through the modern city.
If you want to go deeper, the National Justice Museum on High Pavement includes access to its own cellars and caves beneath the Shire Hall. These were used for prisoner storage and, allegedly, for executions. The stone walls still bear the marks of desperate prisoners.
The Feuding Pubs: A Medieval Rivalry
Pubs are where Nottingham's character becomes most apparent. Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, built into the castle rock at Brewhouse Yard, Nottingham NG1 6AD, claims to be the oldest inn in England, with a foundation date of 1189. The claim is disputed by at least three other English pubs, including Ye Olde Salutation Inn, which is also in Nottingham, roughly three hundred meters away at Hounds Gate, Nottingham NG1 7AA. The rivalry between these two establishments has been going on for decades, and locals have strong opinions about which one is genuinely older. The truth is that both buildings have medieval origins but have been rebuilt so extensively that the original fabric is minimal. What matters is the atmosphere.
The Trip to Jerusalem has low ceilings, uneven floors, and a collection of wooden chairs and tankards that look like they have been there since the Restoration. The pub runs tours of its cave cellars, which were used for brewing and storage, and there is a cursed galleon on display that staff will tell you about if they have time. The story changes depending on who is working. The pub is open daily from 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM (Sunday to Thursday) and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. A pint of cask ale will cost you around £4.50–£5.50.
The Salutation is less tourist-heavy and has a better beer selection, including rotating casks from local breweries. It is open Monday to Saturday from 12:00 PM to 11:00 PM and Sunday from 7:00 PM to 10:30 PM. Nottingham has a surprisingly strong craft beer scene for a city its size. Castle Rock Brewery operates several pubs in the city, and their Harvest Pale is a reliable standard. The Crafty Crow, near the canal at 102 Friar Lane, Nottingham NG1 6EB, stocks beers from across the East Midlands and runs regular tasting events. It is open Monday to Saturday from 12:00 PM to 11:00 PM and Sunday from 12:00 PM to 10:30 PM.
If you want something older and darker, try the Bell Inn on Old Market Square, Nottingham NG1 6HY, a timber-framed building from the 15th century with a long, narrow interior that fills with standing drinkers on Friday evenings. It is open daily from 11:00 AM until late, and it is one of the best places in the city to hear local musicians playing traditional folk music on Sunday afternoons.
The Lace Market: Where an Empire Was Built
The Lace Market is where Nottingham's industrial history becomes visible. In the 19th century, this neighborhood produced lace that dressed European royalty and supplied the global market. The warehouses are still there, built from red brick with cast-iron columns and vast windows to catch the northern light for the lace finishers. At its peak in the 1890s, the industry employed 25,000 people, mostly women, whose skilled hands finished the delicate fabrics that poured out of the city's factories.
The undisputed star of the show is the Adams Building on Stoney Street. This colossal former lace warehouse is a masterpiece of Victorian design. It was built for Thomas Adams, a Quaker industrialist who, unusually for the time, was deeply concerned with the welfare of his workers. The building even included a chapel for them. Today it is part of the city's college, but you can still admire its incredible neo-Renaissance facade from the street. For a particularly beautiful view, visit Broadway off Stoney Street—a historic factory street known for its striking architecture and vibrant charm. It is a photograph-worthy spot that captures the essence of Nottingham's industrial past.
St Mary's Church, on High Pavement, is a stunning contrast to the industrial architecture surrounding it. As the city's oldest and largest medieval church, its history predates the lace industry by centuries, with the current structure completed around 1474. Its peaceful interior is a wonderful place to step away from the city buzz. The church is open to visitors Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 AM to 2:30 PM. As you enter, pay special attention to the entrance porch, which is the oldest part of the building dating back to the 1400s. The church is free to visit, though donations are welcome. It is generally best to avoid visiting during service times unless you are attending a prayer service yourself.
The Lace Market Theatre on Halifax Place gives space to amateur and up-and-coming playwrights, actors, and companies. It is one of the best places to seek out new and interesting plays, and the building itself is one of the most visually interesting in the area.
The Lace Market is to the north of the Nottingham Canal in the centre of the city. Take the NET tram to the Lace Market stop by Lace Market Square and walk through the quaint streets of the area. Local buses connect the district with other parts of the city too.
Justice and Rebellion: Crime, Punishment, and Civil War
The National Justice Museum is housed in the imposing old Shire Hall on High Pavement, Nottingham NG1 1HN. This building operated as a courthouse and prison from 1375 to 1986, and the tours include the courtrooms, the cells, and the gallows where prisoners were publicly executed until 1864. The museum does not sanitize the history. The audio guides include recordings of actual court proceedings, and the cell blocks still smell of stone and damp. General admission costs £15, and the museum is open daily from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM. There are a few free exhibitions on the lower level entrance if you want to have a taste for what there is to see before committing to the full ticket.
Nottingham Castle is another site of layered history. The original castle was demolished after the English Civil War, and the replacement was burned during the 1831 Reform Bill riots. The building that stands there now reopened in 2021 after a £30 million renovation that added an exhibition space and improved the museum collections, though locals still argue about whether the money could have been better spent. The castle grounds are worth the climb for the view across the city, and the museum has one of the best collections of Nottingham alabaster carvings in existence, delicate religious sculptures exported across Europe in the 15th century. Adult tickets cost £18 (annual pass), and children 15 and under are free with a paying adult (up to 3 children). During peak season (7 February 2026 to 1 November 2026), opening hours are 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. The castle is located at Lenton Road, Nottingham NG1 6EL.
The Robin Hood statue outside the castle, erected in 1952, is a genuinely popular meeting point despite being objectively ugly. The Robin Hood connection is similarly layered with fiction and fact. There probably was an outlaw operating in the Sherwood Forest area during the 13th or 14th century, though the earliest written references appear two centuries later and the location shifts depending on the telling. What matters more is what the city has done with the myth.
The Sound of Nottingham: Music Venues and Live Culture
Nottingham's music reputation is another layer that most visitors miss. The city produced bands like Iron Maiden, Paul Weller, and more recently Jake Bugg, but the real story is in the venues. Rock City, opened in 1984 in what was formerly a television studio at 8 Talbot Street, Nottingham NG1 5GG, has hosted everyone from Nirvana to Oasis to the Arctic Monkeys in their early touring days. The venue is unglamorous, sticky, and loud, which is exactly what a proper rock club should be. Ticket prices vary by show but typically range from £15 to £40 for most gigs. Check the Gigantic or Alt-Tickets websites for listings.
The Rescue Rooms, smaller and more focused on emerging acts, is around the corner at Masonic Place, Goldsmith Street, Nottingham NG1 5JT and shares an owner. If you are interested in the local scene, the Bodega Social Club at 23 Pelham Street, Nottingham NG1 2ED, a former pub converted into a 250-capacity venue, is where you can stand close enough to read the set list. It is open for shows most nights from 7:00 PM to 11:00 PM.
Food and Drink: Beyond the Pub
Nottingham's food scene has evolved dramatically in recent years. For the finest dining experience in the city, Restaurant Sat Bains at Lenton Lane, Nottingham NG7 2SA has been the jewel in the crown of the Nottingham culinary scene for over two decades, with two Michelin Stars. Choose from either the tasting menu with seven, 10, or 15 courses or the dinner menu with just three courses. You can even stay over in one of their rooms. This is a ££££ establishment, so budget accordingly.
For something more accessible, Kushi-ya at Low Pavement, Nottingham NG1 7DL is a Japanese small-plate restaurant that has become a Nottingham favourite. The skewer slingers are masters of their craft, and the pork shoulder is a serious contender for the best dish in the city. Book well in advance, as it is hard to get in. Expect to pay around ££ per person.
Piccalilli at Cannon Court, Nottingham NG1 6JE brings twists to classic British dishes. The set lunch menu, with a snack and two plates for £25 (add a dessert for £7), is available Thursdays and Fridays 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM, and before 5:45 PM in the evenings. It is a ££ establishment and perfect for stylish comfort food.
For a no-nonsense curry, Kayal on Broad Street, Nottingham NG1 3AL serves South Indian dishes with an authentic and interesting menu. It is a ££ spot and has been popular with celebrities including the Hairy Bikers and Ainsley Harriott. The Pici restaurant on the same street offers Italian flavours with a modern twist, and the cacio e pepe is a must-try.
For pizza lovers, Slice 'n' Brew at King's Walk, Nottingham NG1 2AE is built around New York pizza traditions but brings its own spin. It is a ££ establishment and you can pair your pie with handpicked wines and craft beers from local and national makers.
If you want a taste of local Nottingham tradition, Bombay Deli at Carrington Street, Nottingham NG1 7FF (near the station) serves Mumbai street food and snacks. The samosa chaat, bread pakora, and onion bhaji (which holds two Great Taste stars) are highly recommended. It is a £ establishment, perfect for a quick lunch before catching a train.
The Goose Fair: Tradition and Chaos
The Goose Fair is Nottingham's annual test of endurance and patience. It has been held every October since at least 1284, making it one of the oldest fairs in Europe. For five days, the Forest Recreation Ground fills with carnival rides, food stalls selling mushy peas and mint sauce, and a particular breed of aggressive showmanship from the ride operators. The fair is loud, crowded, and faintly dangerous in a way that modern festivals usually are not. Locals complain about it every year and attend every year, which is the definition of tradition. If you are visiting in early October, go on a weekday evening to avoid the worst crowds, and bring cash because many of the food vendors still do not take cards. Admission to the fairground is free; ride tokens cost £2–£5 per ride.
What to Skip
Sherwood Forest is smaller than you expect, and the Major Oak—the tree Robin Hood allegedly hid in—is fenced off and surrounded by tourists taking identical photos. The forest is pleasant for a walk, but if you are expecting the vast woodland of the films, you will be disappointed. It is a 45-minute bus ride from the city centre, and the Visitor Centre is only open 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. The B6030 road runs through it, and buses operate every half hour Monday to Saturday and every hour on Sundays.
Nottingham Contemporary, the modern art gallery on Weekday Cross, is architecturally striking and free to enter, but the exhibitions are hit-and-miss. If you are not interested in contemporary art, you will walk through it in ten minutes. The cafe terrace is pleasant, but there are better places for coffee in the Lace Market.
The Tourist Information Centre on Smithy Row is largely unnecessary. The staff are helpful, but the information is available online, and the city is compact enough that you will not get lost if you have a phone. Spend that time in a pub instead.
Wollaton Hall and the deer park are beautiful, but the hall itself is primarily a natural history museum that will appeal mainly to families with children. The 16th-century Elizabethan mansion was used as Wayne Manor in the Christopher Nolan Batman films, which is a fun fact, but unless you are a film enthusiast or visiting with kids, the park is more rewarding than the interior. The hall is open daily from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM (last entry 3:30 PM), and the deer park is free to enter at any time from 8:00 AM on weekdays and 9:00 AM at weekends.
Practical Logistics
Getting There: Nottingham is well-connected by train. East Midlands Railway and CrossCountry run regular services from London St Pancras (approximately 1 hour 45 minutes, tickets from £15–£40 depending on advance booking), Birmingham (approximately 50 minutes), and Sheffield (approximately 30 minutes). The train station is a five-minute walk from the city centre.
Getting Around: The city centre is compact and walkable. For longer distances, the NET tram is the most convenient option. A single tram ticket costs £3.40, and a day cap is £5.50. Short hops (under 20 minutes) cost £1.50. NCT buses cost £3.00 for a single or £5.50 for a day cap. If you are using both buses and trams, the multi-operator day cap is £6.70. All public transport accepts contactless payment. You can also hire a Lime e-bike for around £1.50 to unlock plus £0.20 per minute.
Best Time to Visit: Nottingham is a year-round city, but the best months are May to September for the music venues, outdoor pubs, and cricket at Trent Bridge. October brings the Goose Fair, which is either a highlight or a reason to avoid the city depending on your tolerance for crowds and noise. December is pleasant for the Christmas market, though it is smaller than those in Birmingham or Manchester.
Where to Stay: The Lace Market Hotel on High Pavement puts you in the heart of the historic district. For budget options, the Ibis Nottingham Centre on Goldsmith Street is clean and central. For something more characterful, the St James Hotel on Rutland Street is a converted Victorian townhouse near the train station.
Money: Nottingham is affordable by UK standards. A pint of beer costs £4.50–£5.50, a decent meal costs £12–£20, and most attractions are under £15. The castle is the most expensive at £18, but the ticket is an annual pass. Contactless cards are accepted almost everywhere, though some market vendors and fairground operators still prefer cash.
Safety: Nottingham is generally safe, but the city centre can get rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights, especially around Old Market Square and the clubs near the Lace Market. The Meadows area south of the canal should be avoided after dark unless you are visiting a specific venue. As in any city, keep your phone and wallet secure on crowded nights.
Nottingham does not look like the Robin Hood films. The forest is smaller than you expect, the castle is not medieval, and the city centre has the same chain stores and coffee shops as every other English city of its size. But the caves are real, the pubs are ancient, the lace history is genuine, and the music scene is active. The trick is to look past the myth at the actual city underneath, which has been busy being interesting for a lot longer than the stories about it.
Even if the world forgets Robin Hood, I'll remember the caves, the pubs, and the lace.
By Finn O'Sullivan
Irish storyteller and folklorist. Finn hunts for the narratives that do not make guidebooks—the pub legends, the family feuds, the neighborhood heroes. He believes every street corner has a story if you know who to ask.