Cheddar Gorge: Caves, Cheese, and Britain’s Oldest Skeleton
Cheddar Gorge is one of Britain’s most spectacular natural landmarks – a deep limestone gorge carved by ice meltwater over millennia, dotted with caves that have told us more about prehistoric Britain than almost anywhere else. Combine this geological drama with the home of Britain’s most famous cheese, miles of walking trails, and some genuinely surprising stories, and you have a destination that’s far more than just a day trip. This is ancient Britain, frozen in limestone and waiting to be explored.
The Gorge: Geology on a Grand Scale
How It Was Formed
During the last ice age (roughly 2 million to 11,700 years ago), meltwater from glaciers carved through the limestone hills, creating the deep V-shaped valley we see today. The gorge is about 3 miles long, up to 137 metres deep, and lined with sheer limestone cliffs that are dramatic from any angle.
The Geology
The limestone here is Carboniferous, roughly 340 million years old – ancient sea sediment compressed and lifted. The rock is relatively soft, which is why water could carve it so effectively. This same softness allowed the caves to form and made the area rich in prehistoric finds.
Best Views
Cliff Top Walk – The 3-mile circular walk follows the cliff tops, offering spectacular views down into the gorge and out across the Somerset Levels. Not for vertigo sufferers, but unparalleled scenery.
Lookout Tower – At the top of the gorge, this offers 360-degree views across Somerset. On clear days, you can see the Bristol Channel and Wales.
Jacob’s Ladder – 274 steps up the cliff face. Exhausting but rewarding – the view from the top is worth every step.
The Caves: Prehistoric Britain
Gough’s Cave
The main showcave, discovered in 1892 and open to visitors since 1899. What makes Gough’s Cave special isn’t just its formations (though these are spectacular) – it’s what it’s told us about Britain’s earliest inhabitants.
The Cheddar Man: In 1903, Britain’s oldest complete skeleton was discovered here. Dated to around 9,100 years old (early Mesolithic), he was a hunter-gatherer who died in his twenties. DNA analysis has revealed he had dark skin, dark curly hair, and blue eyes – the face of ancient Britain.
Cannibalism evidence: Recent analysis of human bones found in the cave shows signs of butchery and consumption – evidence of cannibalism during the Mesolithic period. It’s gruesome but crucial to understanding prehistoric Britain.
The Rock formations: Stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, and other formations created by dripping water over thousands of years. The cave is extensive (over 1.5 miles of passages) with spectacular lighting that highlights the natural beauty.
Cox’s Cave
Smaller than Gough’s but equally impressive, with different formations and atmosphere. The cave was discovered in 1837 and has been entertaining visitors for nearly two centuries.
Audio-visual experience: Cox’s Cave now has a multimedia presentation that brings the cave’s history to life – not for everyone, but engaging for children and those who like visual storytelling.
The Other Caves
Several smaller caves in the area are accessible only to experienced cavers or through pre-booked tours. These include Diamond Cave, Long Hole, and others that continue to yield archaeological finds.
Beyond the Caves: Walking and Views
The Classic Walks
Cliff Top Walk (3 miles) – The gorge’s signature walk. Challenging but achievable for reasonably fit walkers. Allow 2-3 hours and bring good footwear.
Lion Rock Walk (shorter) – To the viewpoint over Jacob’s Ladder. Still steep but shorter than the full cliff walk.
Valley Floor Walk – Easier than the cliff walk, following the road through the gorge. Good for families or those wanting less challenge.
For Experienced Walkers
The gorge connects to the Mendip Hills walking routes. Experienced walkers can extend their route onto the Mendips for longer, more challenging walking with views across Somerset and the Bristol Channel.
Cheddar Cheese: The Other Star
While most people come for the gorge, Cheddar is also the spiritual home of Britain’s most famous cheese.
What Makes Cheddar Cheese
Traditional cheddar is a hard, cheese made from cow’s milk. What makes it special is the “cheddaring” process – stacking slabs of curd to expel whey and develop the characteristic texture and flavour.
The Cheddar Tradition
The Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company produces traditional, cloth-bound cheddar in the village. You can watch cheese being made, taste different ages, and buy direct from the source. The difference between their cheese and supermarket versions is immense – richer, deeper, more complex.
Tasting Notes
- Young (3-6 months) – Mild, creamy, gentle
- Medium (6-12 months) – More developed, tangier
- Mature (12-18 months) – Strong, sharp, distinctive
- Extra mature (18-24+ months) – Intense, crystalline, complex
Planning Your Visit
The Essentials
Location: Cheddar village, Somerset. About 18 miles south of Bristol, easily accessible by car.
Best time: Spring and autumn offer good weather and fewer crowds. Summer can be busy, especially weekends.
Duration: Allow a full day to really experience everything – caves, walking, cheese.
Tickets and Access
Cave tours can be booked online (recommended in peak season). Gough’s Cave and Cox’s Cave have separate tickets but combined options are available.
Walking is free – you don’t need tickets for the gorge itself, just for the caves.
Parking – Multiple car parks in the village. Paid, but reasonably priced.
What to Bring
- Good walking shoes – the gorge’s surfaces are uneven
- Layers – it’s cool in the caves (around 12°C year-round)
- Water – walking can be thirsty work
- Camera – the gorge is spectacular from any angle
- Cash – some smaller shops and cafés are cash-only
Beyond the Main Attractions
The Village
Cheddar village itself is charming – stone buildings, narrow streets, and the inevitable tourist shops. The Cheddar Museum (small but interesting) tells the story of the village and cheese.
The Surroundings
The Mendip Hills extend from the gorge in all directions. If you’ve got time, explore these ancient limestone hills – walking, cycling, or just driving through offers spectacular scenery.
The Cheese Trail
Beyond Cheddar itself, Somerset produces excellent cheeses. The Somerset Cheese Trail connects producers across the county – you could easily spend a few days combining cheese with caves and walking.
Practical Tips
For Families
Caves – Most children love the caves (lighting and atmosphere are magical). Not suitable for very young children who might be scared of dark spaces.
Walking – The cliff walk is challenging for young children. Jacob’s Ladder might be manageable but supervision is essential – the drops are serious.
Cheese – Tasting is fun, and many children will enjoy seeing cheese being made.
For Photographers
Early morning or late evening – the light on the cliffs is spectacular. After rain – the limestone becomes more dramatic when wet. The caves – tripods aren’t practical, but camera settings can be adjusted for low light.
Accessibility
Gough’s Cave – Partially accessible with assistance, but steps and uneven surfaces make it challenging for wheelchairs. Call ahead for advice.
Cox’s Cave – Similar challenges to Gough’s.
Walking routes – The valley floor walk is the most accessible; the cliff walk is definitely not.
Seasonal Notes
Spring
Good walking weather, wildflowers in the gorge, not too busy. Caves are cool and atmospheric. Cheese making is in full swing.
Summer
Peak season – crowds, queues, and busy car parks. Weather is ideal for walking, but go early or late in the day to avoid crowds.
Autumn
Lovely colours in the surrounding countryside, fewer visitors, still decent walking weather. Caves are at their most atmospheric.
Winter
Quiet, moody, sometimes dramatic when the cliffs are dusted with snow. Walking can be challenging in poor weather, but the caves are unaffected.
Nearby Attractions
Wells
England’s smallest city (about 20 minutes away), with its magnificent cathedral and medieval architecture.
Glastonbury
Legends, Tor, and mystical atmosphere. About 15 minutes away and worth combining with a Cheddar visit.
Bath
About 45 minutes away – Georgian architecture, Roman baths, and excellent food scene.
The Bigger Picture
Cheddar Gorge is part of a much bigger story – Britain’s prehistoric past. The Cheddar Man and the cave dwellings tell us about the people who lived here 9,000 years ago. The geological formations reveal a landscape shaped by ice and water. The walking routes connect you to the natural forces that have shaped this part of Britain for millennia.
What makes Cheddar special is that you can experience all of this in one place – walk where Mesolithic people walked, see where they lived, taste a product that’s been made here for centuries, and see a landscape that’s been evolving for millions of years. It’s not just a tourist attraction – it’s a window into Britain’s past and present.
Final Tips
- Book ahead in peak season – caves sell out.
- Wear layers – caves are cool whatever the weather.
- Take your time – rushing through the caves misses the point.
- Try the cheese – it’s more than just a gimmick.
- Look beyond the obvious – the gorge’s beauty is in the details.
Cheddar Gorge is more than just caves and cheese – it’s a landscape that tells stories, a place where geology, prehistory, and culinary tradition come together. Whether you’re caving, walking, cheese-tasting, or just taking in the views, you’re experiencing something that’s uniquely British and genuinely worth the journey.