Five Days in the Scottish Highlands: A Route That'll Ruin You for Other Mountains

By Marcus Chen | First published in Trail Magazine, updated March 2026

I've walked trails on four continents, and I still can't shake the Highlands. There's something about Scottish mountains that gets under your skin — maybe it's the way the light changes every seventeen seconds, or how a valley can feel simultaneously ancient and utterly wild.

This isn't a gentle introduction. Five days isn't enough for the Highlands (truthfully, five years isn't enough), but it's enough to understand why people keep coming back. I've guided groups through this route a dozen times, and this itinerary represents what actually works — not what looks good on Instagram.

Spring is the sweet spot. The midges haven't woken up yet, the winter snow still caps the peaks, and you'll have the trails largely to yourself. Pack waterproofs. Ignore the forecast. Let's go.

Day 1: Glencoe — Where the Mountains Don't Mess About

Overnight: Glencoe Village or Ballachulish
Distance walked: 10-12km
Elevation gain: ~600m

Glencoe isn't pretty. It's beautiful, which is different — beautiful in the way a storm is beautiful, or a particularly well-executed swear word. The valley runs roughly east-west, flanked by ridges that rise straight from the road like broken teeth. On my first visit, I stood at the Three Sisters viewpoint for twenty minutes without moving. That still happens.

Getting Your Bearings

If you're driving: From Glasgow, take the A82 along Loch Lomond. The road narrows to single track in places after Tarbet — don't rush it. The views improve precisely when you can't pull over. Journey time: 2 hours if you're sensible, 2.5 if you stop for photos (you will).

If you're on public transport: Citylink buses 914/915 run from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Fort William, stopping at Glencoe village. Departs 8:00 AM, arrives 10:15 AM, costs £18-25. Book at citylink.co.uk. The bus drops you at the village — from there, you'll need to walk or taxi to accommodation.

Pro tip: If you're relying on buses, base yourself in Glencoe village itself. The rest of this itinerary assumes you have a car, but I'll note public transport alternatives where viable.

Morning: The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail)

Start here. Not with the visitor centre, not with coffee — start with the walk that gives Glencoe its reputation.

The trailhead: Three Sisters Carpark, 56.6675°N, -5.0267°W. Free parking, toilet block (often broken), no other facilities. Grid reference: NN 171 567.

The Lost Valley isn't actually a valley. It's a hanging coire — a high bowl trapped between ridges, invisible from below. The MacDonalds hid cattle here from raiding parties. You can still see why.

The walk: 4km round trip, 300m ascent, 2.5-3 hours.

The path starts broad and obvious, crossing the River Coe via stepping stones. These stones are slippery. I've seen confident hikers go in ankle-deep. Take the time to pick your route, especially after rain when the water runs brown and fast.

After the river, the path climbs steeply through boulders. This section requires hands. Not climbing-grade scrambling, but you'll be using your arms. In spring, water sheets down the rock faces from snowmelt above — waterproof jacket essential, even if the valley is dry.

The coire itself opens suddenly. One moment you're climbing, the next you're standing in a natural amphitheatre with waterfalls on three sides and Bidean nam Bian (1,150m) rising above. The silence is noticeable. Sound doesn't behave normally here — voices drop flat against the rock walls.

What to bring: Lunch. There's no café at the top (obviously), and you'll want to spend time here. I usually sit on the large flat boulder halfway up the far slope — best view of the waterfalls.

When to go: Start by 10:00 AM. The coire loses light early, and afternoon clouds often roll in.

Lunch: The Glencoe Café

Back at the valley floor, drive (or walk the 2km) to Glencoe Village.

The Glencoe Café
PH49 4HS | 01855 811666 | £8-14

This place has saved me more than once. The Scottish breakfast is substantial — eggs, bacon, haggis, tattie scones, the works. But I come for the homemade scones, served warm with butter and jam. The coffee is passable, which is high praise for rural Scotland.

The owners know the local conditions. Ask about the Lost Valley path status, or whether the Steall Falls route is open (more on that tomorrow). They've saved me from at least three bad decisions.

Afternoon: Signal Rock and the Lochan

Two lighter options for the afternoon, depending on how your legs feel.

Option A: Signal Rock (gentle)

Park at Signal Rock car park (56.6822°N, -5.1033°W, free). The circular walk is 2km through woodland, ending at a rocky outcrop where, allegedly, the signal was given to begin the Glencoe Massacre in 1692.

I say "allegedly" because the historical record is murky. What is certain is that this is excellent red squirrel habitat. Bring binoculars, move quietly, and scan the pine branches. I've seen them here in late afternoon, usually when I've given up looking.

The rock itself offers a view down the glen. Worth the walk even without squirrels.

Option B: Glencoe Lochan (very gentle)

Created in the 1890s by a homesick Canadian who missed the forests of British Columbia. It's as odd as it sounds — a pocket of North American conifers planted around a small artificial lake, accessed by gravel paths.

Location: 56.6833°N, -5.1167°W. Park at the trailhead (free) and follow the signs. The loop is 2km, wheelchair accessible, and takes 45 minutes at a stroll.

I come here when the weather's closing in. The trees provide shelter, and there's something surreal about hearing Scottish rain on Canadian pines. Photographers: the reflections on still mornings are exceptional.

Evening: The Clachaig Inn

The Clachaig Inn
PH49 4HX | 01855 811252 | £25-45 per person

Three bars, real ales, and a wall of mountaineering history. This is where Glencoe's climbing community gathers, and the atmosphere reflects that — knowledgeable, unpretentious, slightly worn at the edges.

The food is hearty rather than refined. I usually order the venison stew (£18.50) or the Cullen skink (£9 for a bowl, £6 for a cup). The skink is excellent — thick, smoky, substantial. Vegetarian options exist but are limited; this is not the place for elaborate dietary requirements.

Book ahead in summer. In spring, you might get a table walking in, but call after 4 PM to check. The Boots Bar is dog-friendly and has live folk music some evenings — check their website for the schedule.

Alternative: The Glencoe Inn in the village (01855 811642) does decent seafood and has harbour views if you prefer something quieter.

Day 2: Fort William and Glen Nevis

Overnight: Fort William or Glen Nevis
Distance walked: 8-14km depending on route
Elevation gain: ~400m

Fort William calls itself the "Outdoor Capital of the UK," which is marketing speak for "it rains a lot and we have one really big mountain." Both things are true. Ben Nevis (1,345m) is Britain's highest peak, and in spring, it's still holding winter conditions on top.

Do not attempt the Ben Nevis summit in spring unless you have winter skills. I mean this. The path is iced, the summit plateau has cornices (overhanging snow that collapses), and people die here every year. The Mountain Rescue team is volunteer-run and exhausted by May.

Instead, do what locals do: walk Glen Nevis.

Morning: Steall Falls

The trailhead: Lower Glen Nevis car park, 56.7969°N, -5.0036°W. £4 for the day, honesty box, no change given.

Steall Falls is Scotland's second-highest waterfall, dropping 120m from a hanging valley. In spring, with snowmelt feeding it, the water volume is extraordinary. You can hear it from the car park.

The walk: 7km round trip, minimal ascent, 2.5-3 hours.

The path follows the river through woodland, then opens into the glen proper. The final approach crosses the Water of Nevis via a wire bridge — three cables, two for hands, one for feet. It's stable but requires confidence. The river beneath is fast and cold.

If the bridge feels too much, you can wade the river 50m upstream where it shallows. This requires removing boots and is unpleasant in spring — the water is snowmelt, barely above freezing.

The waterfall itself is best viewed from the far side of the bridge. The pool at its base is swimmable in summer. In spring, it's hypothermia territory. I've seen people do it. I wouldn't.

Photography: The falls face southeast. Morning light catches the spray; afternoon puts the face in shadow. Arrive by 10:00 AM for best conditions.

Lunch: The Grog & Gruel

Back in Fort William for lunch.

The Grog & Gruel
66 High Street, PH33 6AD | 01397 705078 | £10-18

Mexican-Scottish fusion shouldn't work, but somehow it does. The haggis burrito (£12.50) is their signature — spicy, substantial, deeply weird. The venison chilli (£14) is more straightforward and equally good. Beer selection is excellent, featuring local microbrews.

Service can be slow when busy. Order at the bar, grab a seat, and wait. It's worth it.

Afternoon: Neptune's Staircase or Inverlochy Castle

Two options depending on energy levels.

Option A: Neptune's Staircase (easy walking)

Eight locks on the Caledonian Canal, raising boats 20m over a quarter-mile. It's engineering that feels almost organic — the water levels adjusting slowly, gates opening with mechanical precision.

Location: Banavie, 56.8433°N, -5.1000°W. Free parking at canal side.

You can walk the towpath in either direction. East leads toward Loch Lochy and eventually Inverness; west goes to Corpach and the sea loch. I usually walk east for an hour, then turn back. The canal boats move slowly enough to chat with the crews — many are holidaymakers on week-long passages.

Option B: Inverlochy Castle (history, minimal walking)

A ruined 13th-century castle, the site of a 1645 battle during the Civil Wars. The walls still stand to first-floor height in places, and you can wander freely.

Location: 56.8433°N, -5.0833°W. Free parking, free entry, no facilities.

In spring, daffodils carpet the grounds. The castle itself is stark — stone walls, empty windows, the occasional information plaque. I find it peaceful rather than dramatic, a place to sit and consider how briefly we occupy these landscapes.

Evening: Ben Nevis Inn

Ben Nevis Inn
Achintee, PH33 6TE | 01397 702295 | £18-28 per person

Located at the foot of the mountain path, this place smells of wet boots and achievement. The bothy-style interior — wooden benches, stone walls, wood-burning stove — is exactly what you want after a day in the hills.

Food is straightforward: steak pie, venison burger, fish and chips. Portions are large. The real draw is the atmosphere — climbers comparing routes, walkers celebrating finishes, the occasional dog drying by the fire.

Live folk music some evenings. Check their Facebook page for schedules. Booking advised Friday-Sunday; weekdays in spring, you can usually walk in.

Alternative: Crannog Seafood Restaurant (01397 705589) on the Town Pier does excellent seafood with loch views, but it's pricier (£35-50) and requires booking.

Day 3: The Road to the Isles

Overnight: Mallaig or Arisaig
Distance walked: 6-8km
Elevation gain: ~200m

The A830 from Fort William to Mallaig is regularly voted one of Britain's best drives. It's not hard to see why — the road hugs coastlines, crosses moors, passes through glens that feel untouched since the ice age. In spring, the verges are white with campion and yellow with gorse.

Take your time. This is not a day for rushing.

Morning: Glenfinnan

Breakfast: Glenfinnan House Hotel, PH37 4LT | 01397 722235 | £10-16

A converted shooting lodge with views down Loch Shiel. The breakfast is standard Scottish fare, but the setting elevates it. Eat looking out at the water — on calm mornings, the reflections are mirror-perfect.

The Monument: 10:00 AM opening

The Glenfinnan Monument marks where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard in 1745, beginning the Jacobite Rising that ended disastrously at Culloden. The 18m statue of a Highlander stands at the head of the loch, surrounded by spring wildflowers.

The National Trust visitor centre (£5, NTS members free) provides context, but I recommend climbing the monument first. The spiral staircase is narrow and dark, but the view from the top — loch, mountains, the viaduct in the distance — is worth the effort.

The Viaduct:

The famous railway viaduct from the Harry Potter films. It's visible from the monument, but the best viewpoint requires a short walk.

From the visitor centre car park (£3), follow the marked trail 15 minutes uphill. You'll emerge at a vantage point where the viaduct curves across the valley, 30 arches in a graceful sweep.

The Jacobite steam train crosses twice daily in season:

Morning: ~10:45 AM (Fort William to Mallaig)
Afternoon: ~3:15 PM (return journey)

If you want the classic photo — train on viaduct, steam rising — arrive 30 minutes early to secure a spot. It gets crowded. The train itself costs £49-65 return; book months ahead at westcoastrailways.co.uk.

I've watched the crossing a dozen times. It still works — the sound of the whistle echoing, the steam drifting, the whole improbable romance of it.

Midday: Drive to Arisaig

Continue west on the A830. Stop at the Loch Eilt viewpoint (56.8833°N, -5.4833°W) — another Harry Potter filming location, the island where Dumbledore's grave supposedly lies. The viewpoint is marked, parking is free.

Lunch: The Old Library, Arisaig PH39 4NH | 01687 450651 | £12-20

A bookshop with a café attached, or possibly the other way around. Shelves line every wall, climbing to the ceiling. The food is simple — soup, sandwiches, excellent cakes — but the atmosphere is unique. I usually lose an hour browsing the mountaineering section.

Afternoon: Camusdarach Beach

White sand, turquoise water, views to the Small Isles. In spring, you might have it to yourself.

Getting there: From Arisaig, follow signs to Camusdarach. The final mile is a rough track — take it slow. Park at the small car park (£2 donation box) and walk 10 minutes over dunes.

The beach faces west, toward the islands of Rum, Eigg, and Muck. The sand is shell-white, the water genuinely turquoise when the sun hits it. I've seen it compared to the Caribbean. The comparison is absurd — the water temperature is roughly 8°C in spring — but the visual similarity is real.

Walking: You can follow the coast north for several miles, beach to beach, with minimal elevation. The return walk to Arisaig along the shore is 6km and takes 2 hours. Tide dependent — check tide tables at the car park.

Wildlife: Seals often haul out on the rocks at the north end. Bring binoculars, keep distance.

Evening: Mallaig

Arrive in Mallaig by early evening. This is a working fishing port — don't expect charm, expect function. The harbour smells of diesel and fish, which is exactly as it should be.

Dinner: The Steam Inn
PH41 4PY | 01687 462014 | £20-35 per person

Harbour views, fresh seafood, real ales. The langoustines are landed that morning, cooked simply, served with lemon and butter. The Cullen skink is solid. This is not fancy food; it's proper food, served without pretension.

The train station is adjacent — you can watch the Jacobite arriving while you eat.

Sunset: Walk to the harbour wall for the light show. On clear evenings, the sun drops behind the Small Isles, painting the sky in stripes of orange and violet. It's worth staying up for.

Day 4: Isle of Skye

Overnight: Portree
Distance walked: 8-10km
Elevation gain: ~500m

Skye deserves a week. Everyone says this, and everyone is right. We're giving it a day, which means being selective. I've chosen the highlights that work in a single day without feeling rushed — but you'll leave wanting more. That's the point.

Getting There

By ferry: Mallaig to Armadale. CalMac operates every 2 hours, 30-minute crossing. Foot passenger: £3.50. Car: £15. Book at calmac.co.uk — spaces fill up, especially in good weather.

By road: If you've hired a car on the mainland, you can return it in Mallaig and collect another in Kyle of Lochalsh, or take the longer drive via the Skye Bridge (A87 from Invergarry, 1.5 hours from Fort William).

I prefer the ferry. The crossing gives you time to adjust — mainland pace to island pace.

Morning: Armadale to Portree

Armadale Castle: If you have time before the drive, the castle grounds (57.0667°N, -5.9000°W) are worth a wander. The building itself is a ruin, but the 40-acre gardens are spectacular in spring, particularly the rhododendrons. £10 entry, 9:30 AM opening.

The drive to Portree: 50 miles, 1 hour 15 minutes via Broadford. The road winds through the Red Cuillin hills, past crofting townships, across moorland that feels prehistoric. Sheep on the road are normal. Drive accordingly.

Lunch: The Lower Deck
Quay Brae, Portree IV51 9DE | 01478 612418 | £12-22

Harbour-side seafood, served casual. The fish and chips are excellent — haddock, beer-battered, chips proper thick-cut. The crab claws (£18) are worth the splurge if they're available. Eat at the counter watching the harbour traffic.

Portree itself is Skye's main town — coloured houses around a harbour, shops, accommodation, the administrative centre. It's functional rather than beautiful, but it grows on you.

Afternoon: The Old Man of Storr

Skye's most photographed landmark, and deservedly so. A 50m rock pinnacle rising from a hillside, with views across the Sound of Raasay to the mainland beyond.

The trailhead: Car park at 57.5069°N, -6.1833°W. £3 in the honesty box. Gets busy — arrive before 2:00 PM for parking.

The walk: 3.8km round trip, 350m ascent, 2-3 hours.

The path starts through forest, then emerges onto open hillside. The climb is steady rather than steep, but the final section involves scrambling over mud and rock. In spring, this section is often wet — boots with grip essential.

The classic view — the Old Man with the Needle and the cliffs behind — is from the path below the final ascent. Most people stop here. If your legs are willing, continue to the summit plateau for 360-degree views.

Photography: Morning light is best for the classic shot. By afternoon, the face is in shadow. If you're serious about the photo, do this walk at sunrise (arrive at car park by 6:00 AM in April). The trail is obvious enough to follow in dim light.

Evening: Portree

Dinner: Scorrybreac
7 Bosville Terrace, IV51 9DG | 01478 612069 | £40-60 per person

This is Skye's best restaurant, which means booking weeks ahead. Chef Calum Munro does modern Scottish with precision — local venison, hand-dived scallops, ingredients sourced within sight of the kitchen.

The tasting menu (£55) is the way to go if you can stretch to it. Otherwise, the à la carte has gems: the scallops with cauliflower and curry oil, the Highland venison with beetroot and black garlic.

Wine list is excellent, service is knowledgeable without being intrusive. This is a proper restaurant — dress smart-casual, expect to spend the evening.

Alternative: If Scorrybreac is full (likely), The Isle of Skye Baking Company on Wentworth Street does excellent soup, sandwiches, and baking for a more casual dinner.

Day 5: Loch Ness and Inverness

Distance walked: 4-6km
Elevation gain: Minimal

The final day heads east, off the island, through Kyle of Lochalsh, up Loch Ness, to Inverness. It's a driving day with stops — a gentler finish after four active days.

Morning: Eilean Donan Castle

Breakfast: The Wee Bakery
Dornie, IV40 8DT | 01599 511233 | £6-12

Fresh baking, decent coffee, Scottish breakfast if you need it. Nothing exceptional, but reliable fuel.

Eilean Donan Castle: 10:00 AM opening

The most photographed castle in Scotland, sitting on a small island where three lochs meet. It's been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times — the current structure is largely a 20th-century reconstruction, but done with such care that it feels authentic.

Location: 57.2739°N, -5.5161°W. £11 entry, 10:00 AM — 5:00 PM.

The interior is fully furnished in period style — banqueting hall, kitchens, bedrooms, a weapons room. The views from the battlements are the real draw: lochs in three directions, mountains behind, the Skye Bridge visible to the west.

Photography: Arrive at opening for fewer crowds. The classic shot — castle from the approach road, framed by the bridge — works in any light, but morning sun catches the stone beautifully.

Midday: Loch Ness

The drive: A87 to Invermoriston, then A82 along the loch's north shore. Journey time: 1 hour 15 minutes, plus stops.

Lunch: The Dores Inn
Dores, Inverness IV2 6TR | 01463 751203 | £12-22

Located on the loch's northern shore, with a beach and views toward Urquhart Castle. The food is standard pub fare — burgers, fish and chips, the occasional special — but the setting elevates it. In good weather, the outdoor seating looks straight down the loch.

Nessie: The deep section of the loch is visible from here. I've never seen anything, but people claim to, regularly. The exhibition in Drumnadrochit (£7.95) covers the history of sightings if you're curious.

Afternoon: Urquhart Castle and Inverness

Urquhart Castle: 57.3242°N, -4.4444°W. £12 entry, plus £4 parking.

The ruins of a medieval stronghold destroyed in 1692 to prevent Jacobite use. What's left is dramatic — walls rising from the shoreline, Grant Tower intact enough to climb, views up and down the loch.

The visitor centre is well done, but I prefer walking straight to the castle. The site feels ancient in a way the exhibitions can't capture — wind off the water, birds calling, the sense that this place has seen everything and forgotten nothing.

Inverness:

Arrive by late afternoon. The city is compact — castle, cathedral, riverside walks, all within easy strolling distance.

Inverness Castle: Exterior only — currently used as courts. The viewpoint is free and offers views over the River Ness and the Moray Firth beyond.

St Andrews Cathedral: Distinctive twin towers on the riverside. Free entry, open until 5:00 PM. The interior is peaceful, the stained glass worth seeing.

The riverside walk: Follow the Ness upstream. The islands in the river are connected by footbridges — a pleasant wander that takes 45 minutes and ends with views of the city from the water.

Evening: Farewell Dinner

The Mustard Seed
16 Fraser Street, IV1 1DW | 01463 220220 | £35-50 per person

A converted church with a mezzanine dining room and excellent modern Scottish cooking. The venison is consistently good, the seafood risotto is properly executed, and the wine list is thoughtful.

This is a celebration restaurant — the kind of place to end a trip with. Book ahead.

Post-dinner: Walk the riverside one last time. The city lights on the water, the castle lit above, the sense that you've covered serious ground in five days. The Highlands do this — they make you feel like you've done something significant, even if all you did was walk.

The Practical Stuff

What to Pack

Clothing:

Waterproof jacket (not showerproof — properly waterproof, taped seams)
Warm mid-layer (fleece or down)
Waterproof trousers
Walking boots with ankle support and grip
Hat and gloves (for the tops)
Sun hat and sunglasses (the glare off wet rock is real)

Gear:

Daypack (25-35 litres)
Water bottle (1 litre minimum)
Map and compass (OS Explorer 392, 400, 413 cover this route)
First aid kit (blister plasters essential)
Head torch (April light fades fast if you're delayed)
Emergency whistle

For the car:

Road atlas (phone signal is patchy to non-existent)
Physical map backup
Snacks and water
Torch for finding things in the boot at 9 PM

Money

Daily budget:

Budget: £70-100 (hostels, self-catering, free walks)
Mid-range: £140-220 (B&Bs, restaurants, paid attractions)
Luxury: £300+ (hotels, fine dining, private transport)

Typical costs:

Coffee: £2.50-3.50
Pub lunch: £12-18
Restaurant dinner: £25-50
B&B: £90-150/night
Hotel: £140-280/night
Hostel: £20-35/night
Attractions: £5-12

Cards work most places. Carry cash for rural car parks and honesty boxes.

When to Go

Spring (March-May):

Temperature: 6-14°C
Daylight: 12-16 hours
Rain: 15-20 days per month
Snow: Possible on summits until May
Midges: None until late May

Weather reality: It will rain. You will get wet. This is not a problem if you're prepared. The worst weather I've experienced in the Highlands came with the best light — storm clouds parting, sunbeams hitting wet rock, the whole landscape glowing.

Safety

Mountain weather: Check mwis.org.uk daily. Conditions at sea level are not conditions at 1,000m.

Spring snow: The Scottish Avalanche Information Service (sais.gov.uk) operates forecasts until mid-April. After that, use your judgement — if there's snow on the ground, winter skills are required.

River crossings: After rain, rivers rise fast. What was a stepping-stone crossing in the morning may be impassable by afternoon. Have alternatives planned.

Emergency: 999 or 112. Ask for police, then mountain rescue. Give your location as a grid reference if possible.

Phone signal: Patchy. Don't rely on it. Tell someone your route and expected return time.

Where to Stay

Glencoe:

Glencoe House: £250-400, luxury suites
The Glencoe Inn: £120-180, solid mid-range
YHA Glencoe: £25-40, hostel

Fort William:

Inverlochy Castle Hotel: £300-500, proper luxury
The Imperial Hotel: £100-160, central
Chase The Wild Goose Hostel: £20-30, basic

Mallaig/Arisaig:

Arisaig Hotel: £100-160, harbourside
The Steam Inn: £80-120, above the pub

Skye:

The Cuillin Hills Hotel: £180-280, Portree
The Portree Hotel: £100-160, central
Skye Backpackers: £20-30, hostel

Inverness:

Rocpool Reserve: £150-250, boutique
The Royal Highland Hotel: £90-140, historic
Inverness Youth Hostel: £25-35, SYHA

Final Thoughts

The Highlands get into you. I've seen it happen — people arrive with a checklist, determined to "do" Scotland, and leave changed. Not in a mystical way. Just... slower. More aware. The landscape demands attention, and attention changes how you move through the world.

Five days is a beginning. You'll miss things — the Fairy Pools on Skye (too crowded anyway), the summit of Ben Nevis (come back in summer), the islands of Rum and Eigg (worth a separate trip). That's fine. The Highlands aren't going anywhere.

What you'll get: Glencoe at dawn, when the mist lifts and the ridges emerge like something from a dream. The Lost Valley in perfect silence. Steall Falls thundering with snowmelt. The view from the Glenfinnan Viaduct viewpoint, steam rising, mountains behind. A pint at the Clachaig, wet boots steaming by the fire, the satisfaction of a day properly spent.

That's the Highlands. That's why I keep coming back.

Marcus Chen is a mountain guide and travel writer based in the Lake District. He has hiked in the Scottish Highlands every spring for the past fifteen years.