Scottish Borders: Abbeys and Rolling Hills

The Scottish Borders is Scotland’s overlooked region – a place of gentle hills, ruined abbeys, and turbulent border history. Between England and Scotland, this landscape witnessed centuries of conflict and raiding, yet produced some of Scotland’s most beautiful religious buildings. From the four great abbeys to charming market towns, from cycling routes to walking paths, the Borders offers a different Scotland – quieter, greener, and unexpectedly rich in history.

The Four Great Abbeys

Melrose Abbey

Perhaps the most spectacular of the Border abbeys, Melrose was founded in 1136 and remains remarkably preserved despite Reformation destruction.

What you’ll see:

• Abbey ruins – Spectacular Gothic architecture with intricate carving
• The heart of Robert the Bruce – Buried here (his heart, not body, which is at Dunfermline)
• Museum – Explaining abbey’s history

Why it matters: Melrose was one of Scotland’s most important religious houses before Reformation. The ruins show what was lost when monasteries were dissolved.

Kelso Abbey

Though partially ruined, Kelso Abbey has one of Scotland’s finest surviving Norman west fronts.

What makes it special: The west front is remarkably preserved, showing Norman architecture at its best.

Dryburgh Abbey

Set in beautiful riverside location, Dryburgh Abbey is the most complete of the Border abbeys.

What you’ll see:

• Abbey ruins – More complete than Melrose or Kelso
• Walter Scott’s grave – The famous author is buried here
• River Tweed views – Beautiful setting

Why visit: The combination of atmospheric ruins and beautiful location makes Dryburgh particularly appealing.

Jedburgh Abbey

Perched on a hill overlooking Jedburgh, this abbey dominates the town.

What you’ll see:

• Abbey ruins – Impressive scale
• The cloister – Atmospheric space
• Town views – From abbey grounds

Border History

The Reivers

For centuries, the Borders were lawless “Debatable Lands” controlled by raiding families called Reivers.

What were Reivers?: Border clans who raided across the Anglo-Scottish border, living by theft and violence. The “Reivers’ laws” operated outside normal legal systems.

Where to learn: Various museums and visitor centres across the Borders tell this story.

Flodden Field

Just across the English border, this battlefield (1513) was one of Scotland’s worst defeats – King James IV killed, Scottish nobility decimated.

The battlefield is near Coldstream. While in England, it’s part of the Border story.

The Towns

Melrose

Charming town at foot of Eildon Hills, with ruined abbey and excellent walking.

What you’ll see:

• Melrose Abbey – The great attraction
• Eildon Hills – Spectacular triple peaks with walking routes
• Abbey Street – Charming historic street

Kelso

Elegant town at confluence of River Tweed and Teviot.

What makes it special:

• Kelso Abbey – Fine west front
• Floors Castle – Nearby stately home (Scotland’s largest inhabited castle)
• Market square – Elegant Georgian centre

Jedburgh

Historic town with abbey dominating the skyline.

What you’ll see:

• Jedburgh Abbey – Spectacular on hilltop
• Castle Jail – Preserved jail and court
• Mary Queen of Scots House – House where Mary stayed

Hawick

Famous for textiles and rugby, Hawick has a distinct Borders identity.

Walking and Cycling

The Borders Abbeys Way

This 68-mile walking route connects the four great abbeys – Melrose, Dryburgh, Kelso, and Jedburgh.

Why walk it: You’ll see abbeys, Border countryside, and experience the Border landscape on foot.

Practical: Can be walked in 5-7 days, or sections can be walked individually.

4 Abbeys Cycle Route

Circular cycling route connecting the four abbeys.

Why cycle it: Cycling allows you to cover more distance and experience the Borders’ gentle hills.

Other Routes

St Cuthbert’s Way – 62-mile walk from Melrose to Lindisfarne (Holy Island) in Northumberland.

Southern Upland Way – 212-mile walk across the Borders and into England.

Planning Your Visit

Getting There

By train: Tweedbank (Galashiels) station on Borders Railway – 50 minutes from Edinburgh. Other Border towns less accessible by rail.

By car: The Borders are well-connected to Edinburgh (A7, A68, A701) and to northern England (A1, A697). Car is most practical.

By bus: Regular services from Edinburgh to main Border towns, but limited between towns.

Best Time

Spring: Good weather for walking, abbeys less crowded than summer.

Summer: Best weather, but can be busy, especially at Melrose.

Autumn: Spectacular colours, excellent walking weather.

Winter: Quieter, though some days may be wet. Abbeys are atmospheric in winter.

Duration

Day trip: One or two abbeys, one town.

Weekend: All four abbeys, some walking, maybe Floors Castle.

Borders break: Use as base for exploring wider region.

Practical Tips

For Abbey Visitors

Don’t rush the abbeys – Each deserves at least 1-2 hours.

Visit multiple abbeys – Comparing them shows different aspects of Border history.

Combine with towns – The Border towns have character worth experiencing.

For Walkers and Cyclists

The Borders are gentle – Hills are rolling, not mountainous. Good for moderate walkers.

Check weather – Borders weather can change quickly.

Accommodation – B&Bs and small hotels are scattered across the Borders for multi-day routes.

For General Visitors

Melrose is the best base – Good accommodation, restaurants, and access to abbeys and Eildon Hills.

Don’t limit to abbeys – The Border towns and countryside have their own charms.

Understand the history – The Border story adds depth to abbeys.

Beyond the Borders

Northumberland

Just south of the Borders, Northumberland has complementary attractions:

Hadrian’s Wall – Roman frontier Alnwick Castle – Famous castle Holy Island (Lindisfarne) – Historic island connected by causeway

Edinburgh

The Borders are only 50 minutes from Edinburgh – the contrasting capital city.

The Borders Story

What makes the Borders special is the combination of beautiful religious architecture and turbulent border history. These abbeys were built in peaceful times, but the region was defined by centuries of conflict.

The landscape itself tells the story – gentle hills that make natural passage between Scotland and England, the very geography that made the Borders contested territory.

Final Thoughts

The Scottish Borders offer a different Scotland – quieter, greener, and richer in religious architecture than many visitors expect. The abbeys are spectacular, the towns are charming, and the landscape rewards walking and cycling.

Whether you’re interested in medieval history, Border conflicts, or just gentle countryside exploration, the Borders deliver. The four great abbeys alone are worth the journey, but the wider region offers depth beyond.

Come for the abbeys, stay for the landscape, and leave understanding why this contested borderland has such a distinctive character. The Borders aren’t famous for drama, but their quiet beauty and rich history make them one of Scotland’s most rewarding regions.