Perfect 7-Day Pembrokeshire Coast Itinerary: Peaceful Winter Adventures
Planning a winter trip to Pembrokeshire Coast? This 7-day itinerary gives you exact times, real locations, and current prices—everything you need for a genuine Welsh coastal experience during the most dramatic season of the year.
Britain's only coastal national park transforms in winter. The summer crowds vanish, leaving you with empty beaches, storm-lashed cliffs, and cozy pubs with roaring fires. This is Pembrokeshire at its most atmospheric.
Why Visit in Winter?
Temperature: 4-10°C (39-50°F). Mild for the latitude thanks to the Gulf Stream.
Daylight: Short days (8 hours) but golden, low-angle light perfect for photography.
Seasonal Highlights:
- Storm watching from safe vantage points as Atlantic gales batter the coast
- Empty beaches - have Barafundle Bay or Marloes Sands entirely to yourself
- Cozy pub culture - settle in by the fire with a pint of local ale
- Christmas markets in Tenby and Haverfordwest (late November through December)
- Wildlife spectacles - seal pups on beaches, winter bird migrations
- Stargazing - dark skies and early nights perfect for astronomy
Best Winter Activities:
- Coastal walking on storm-cleared days
- Pub hopping between traditional Welsh inns
- Seal watching at secluded coves
- Photography in dramatic winter light
- Visiting historic sites without the crowds
Day 1: Arrival and Tenby Exploration
Morning: Arrive in Tenby
Location: Tenby (51.6728°N, -4.7036°W)
Your base for the first two nights. Tenby is a medieval walled town with pastel-colored houses, three golden beaches, and a working harbor. In winter, it returns to being a proper Welsh town rather than a tourist resort.
Getting Here:
- By Car: M4 to Carmarthen, then A40 to Tenby. 4 hours from London, 1.5 hours from Cardiff.
- By Train: Tenby Station — Great Western Railway from Swansea (1 hour 20 mins, £18-28 single).
- By Bus: National Express to Haverfordwest, then local bus 349 to Tenby (30 mins, £4.50).
Parking: Tenby North Beach car park — £2 for 2 hours, £5 all day. Free parking on streets outside the walls after 6 PM.
Accommodation Check-in:
Recommended: The Park Hotel Tenby (Mid-range)
- Price: £85-120/night (winter rates)
- Address: North Cliff, Tenby SA70 8DG
- Phone: 01834 842501
- Notes: Sea views, indoor pool, walking distance to town center
Budget Alternative: YHA Tenby (Hostel)
- Price: £22-35/night
- Address: 51-53 The Green, Tenby SA70 8DJ
- Phone: 0345 371 9344
- Notes: Central location, self-catering kitchen
Late Morning: Explore Tenby's Medieval Walls
Start with a walk around the 13th-century town walls. The complete circuit takes about 30 minutes and offers stunning views over Carmarthen Bay.
Five Arches: The best-preserved section of the medieval walls with original guard towers. Location: Upper Frog Street, Tenby SA70 7JD
St Mary's Church: Climb the tower (52 steps, £3 donation) for panoramic views. On clear winter days, you can see as far as the Gower Peninsula.
- Address: Church Place, Tenby SA70 7HD
- Opening: 10 AM - 4 PM daily
- Tower climb: £3 (winter weekends only)
Lunch: The Hope & Anchor
A proper local pub with harbor views and excellent Welsh cawl (lamb stew).
- Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS
- Phone: 01834 842419
- Price Range: ££
- Winter Specialties: Cawl (£9.50), Welsh rarebit (£7.50), local Brains bitter (£4.20/pint)
- Opening: 12 PM - 11 PM daily
Afternoon: Tenby Museum and Art Gallery
Britain's oldest independent museum (founded 1878), housed in a converted Victorian house with views over Castle Beach.
Exhibits:
- Local maritime history including the Tenby lifeboat
- Works by Augustus John and other Welsh artists
- Archaeological finds from the area
Location: Castle Hill, Tenby SA70 7BP GPS: 51.6721°N, -4.6994°W Opening: 10 AM - 5 PM (winter: Tue-Sun only) Admission: £5 adults, £3 concessions, children free Phone: 01834 842809
Late Afternoon: South Beach Walk
Walk the full length of South Beach as the winter sun sets. At low tide, this golden stretch extends for over a mile. In winter, you'll likely have it entirely to yourself.
Distance: 2 miles round trip Time: 1 hour Difficulty: Easy, flat sand
Photography Tip: The low winter sun (setting around 4:30 PM) creates long shadows and golden light perfect for beach photography.
Evening: Dinner at The Salt Cellar
Modern Welsh cuisine in a cozy cellar setting—perfect for a winter evening.
- Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS
- Phone: 01834 842707
- Price Range: £££
- Must Try: Pembrokeshire lamb (£24), local sea bass (£22)
- Booking: Essential in December, recommended other months
- Opening: 6 PM - 9:30 PM (closed Mondays in winter)
Day 2: Stackpole and Barafundle Bay
Morning: Stackpole Estate (National Trust)
Location: Stackpole Estate (51.6156°N, -4.9083°W)
A 2,000-acre estate featuring one of Britain's finest beaches, lily ponds, and dramatic coastal scenery. In winter, the bare trees reveal views hidden in summer.
Getting There: 20 minutes from Tenby by car. No public transport in winter—taxi from Tenby costs £25-30.
Parking: Stackpole Quay car park — £3 for 2 hours, £6 all day. National Trust members free.
Stackpole Quay: A tiny harbor built for the local limestone trade. In winter, watch fishermen landing their catch or repair their boats.
Walk: Stackpole Head Circuit
A dramatic 4-mile coastal walk taking in limestone cliffs, sea stacks, and the famous Green Bridge of Wales (a natural limestone arch).
Route: Stackpole Quay → Stackpole Head → Green Bridge of Wales → return via inland path Distance: 4 miles Time: 2.5 - 3 hours Difficulty: Moderate (some steep sections, can be muddy)
GPS Waypoints:
- Start: 51.6156°N, -4.9083°W
- Stackpole Head: 51.6089°N, -4.9189°W
- Green Bridge: 51.6008°N, -4.9306°W
Storm Watching: If Atlantic storms are forecast, Stackpole Head offers spectacular (but safe) storm watching. Waves crash over the 100-foot cliffs. Stay on the marked path—cliffs are unstable.
Lunch: The Stackpole Inn
A proper country pub in the village of Stackpole, serving locally sourced food.
- Address: Stackpole, Pembroke SA71 5DF
- Phone: 01646 672324
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Pembrokeshire beef burger (£14), homemade soup with local bread (£6.50)
- Opening: 12 PM - 3 PM, 6 PM - 11 PM daily
- Notes: Dogs welcome in the bar area, roaring fire in winter
Afternoon: Barafundle Bay
Often voted one of Britain's best beaches. In winter, it's utterly deserted—a private paradise of golden sand and crystal-clear water.
Access: 20-minute walk from Stackpole Quay car park along a well-maintained path.
What to Bring:
- Warm layers (wind chill can be significant)
- Waterproofs (Atlantic squalls arrive quickly)
- Hot flask (no facilities at the beach)
- Camera (the winter light is extraordinary)
Seal Watching: Check the eastern end of the beach for grey seals hauled out on the rocks. Winter is pupping season—keep your distance (100m minimum) and never come between a mother and pup.
Evening: Return to Tenby and The Buccaneer Inn
A historic harborside pub with nautical decor and live music on weekends.
- Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AP
- Phone: 01834 843607
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Fish and chips (£13.50), local real ales
- Atmosphere: Low ceilings, wooden beams, friendly locals
- Opening: 11 AM - 11 PM daily
Day 3: St Davids and the Cathedral
Morning: Drive to St Davids
Location: St Davids (51.8812°N, -5.2660°W)
Britain's smallest city (population ~1,800) by virtue of its magnificent 12th-century cathedral. The journey from Tenby takes you through some of Pembrokeshire's finest countryside.
Route: Tenby → A478 → A40 → A487 → St Davids (45 miles, 1 hour 15 minutes)
Scenic Stop: Tregwynt Mansion near Fishguard (51.9983°N, -4.9956°W) for views over Cardigan Bay.
Parking: St Davids Oriel y Parc car park — £1.50 for 2 hours, £3 all day. Free on-street parking available on the outskirts.
St Davids Cathedral
The spiritual heart of Wales and the burial place of Saint David, Wales's patron saint. The purple sandstone building sits in a valley, hidden from Viking raiders.
Highlights:
- The Nave: 12th-century Norman architecture with stunning vaulted ceiling
- The Shrine of St David: Pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years
- The Treasury: Religious artifacts including the 13th-century Bishop's crosier
- The Cloisters: Peaceful covered walkway with medieval carvings
Location: The Pebbles, St Davids SA62 6RD GPS: 51.8822°N, -5.2689°W Opening: 9 AM - 5 PM daily (shorter hours in deep winter) Admission: Free (donations welcome, suggested £5) Guided Tours: 11 AM and 2 PM daily (free, meet at the west door) Phone: 01437 720517
Winter Services:
- Sung Eucharist: Sundays 10:30 AM
- Choral Evensong: Wednesdays 5:30 PM (cathedral choir)
- Special Christmas services: Check website for December schedule
Lunch: The Farmers Arms
A traditional Welsh pub just steps from the cathedral, popular with locals and visitors alike.
- Address: 15 Goat Street, St Davids SA62 6RF
- Phone: 01437 720471
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Welsh lamb cawl (£9.95), faggots and peas (£11.50), Brains SA (£3.80/pint)
- Opening: 12 PM - 11 PM daily
- Notes: Real fire, dog-friendly, local ales on tap
Afternoon: Bishop's Palace
The ruined medieval palace of the Bishops of St Davids, adjacent to the cathedral. In winter, the bare trees frame the Gothic ruins beautifully.
History: Built in the 14th century by Bishop Henry de Gower, this was one of the finest medieval palaces in Britain. It fell into ruin after the Reformation.
Highlights:
- The Great Hall: Imagine the feasts that once took place here
- The Chapel: Intact medieval architecture
- The Undercroft: Storage rooms with original vaulting
Location: Cathedral Close, St Davids SA62 6RD GPS: 51.8825°N, -5.2697°W Opening: 10 AM - 4 PM daily (winter hours) Admission: £4.50 adults, £3.60 concessions, children £2.70 Joint ticket with cathedral tower: £7 (tower climb available in summer only) Phone: 01437 720517
Late Afternoon: Whitesands Bay
Location: Whitesands Bay (51.8933°N, -5.3044°W)
A spectacular west-facing beach with views to Ramsey Island. In winter, this is prime storm-watching territory.
Access: 2 miles west of St Davids. Follow the A487 towards Fishguard, then turn left at the sign.
Parking: Whitesands Bay car park — £2 for 2 hours, £4 all day (winter: honesty box system, bring cash).
Winter Surfing: Yes, really! Local surfers brave the cold waters year-round. The Welsh National Surfing Championships are held here in October.
St Davids Head Walk: If conditions permit, walk the coastal path north towards St Davids Head (3 miles round trip). The Iron Age hill fort of Carn Llidi offers panoramic views.
Evening: Dinner at Cwtch* Restaurant
Award-winning modern Welsh dining in a cozy setting. The name means "cuddle" in Welsh—perfect for a winter evening.
- Address: 22 High Street, St Davids SA62 6SD
- Phone: 01437 720555
- Price Range: £££
- Must Try: Tasting menu (£55), Pembrokeshire beef (£26)
- Booking: Essential year-round
- Opening: 6:30 PM - 9 PM (closed Sundays and Mondays in winter)
Accommodation: Stay overnight in St Davids tonight.
Recommended: Warpool Court Hotel (Luxury)
- Price: £120-180/night (winter rates)
- Address: St Davids SA62 6BN
- Phone: 01437 720300
- Notes: Coastal views, award-winning gardens, afternoon tea available
Day 4: Ramsey Island and the North Coast
Morning: Ramsey Island Boat Trip (Weather Permitting)
Location: Ramsey Island (51.8611°N, -5.3389°W)
An RSPB nature reserve home to seals, seabirds, and dramatic cliffs. Winter boat trips run on weekends and during calm weather—call ahead to confirm.
Operator: Thousand Islands Expeditions
- Address: The Old Farmhouse, St Justinians, St Davids SA62 6PY
- Phone: 01437 721721
- Website: thousandislands.co.uk
Winter Wildlife Boat Trip:
- Duration: 1.5 hours
- Price: £35 adults, £25 children
- Departure: 10:30 AM (weekends, weather dependent)
- What You'll See: Grey seals (winter pupping season), choughs, peregrine falcons, possibly porpoises
Important: Winter boat trips are weather dependent. If cancelled, alternative activities below.
Alternative: St Justinians and Lifeboat Station
Even if boats aren't running, the walk to St Justinians is spectacular.
Distance: 1.5 miles from St Davids (30-minute walk) Path: Well-maintained coastal path with some steep sections
St Davids Lifeboat Station:
- Location: St Justinians, St Davids SA62 6PY
- GPS: 51.8608°N, -5.3167°W
- Opening: Viewing area open daily (free). Station tours by appointment.
- Phone: 01437 720747
Photography: The lifeboat station with Ramsey Island behind is one of Pembrokeshire's most photographed views. Winter storms create dramatic seascapes.
Lunch: The Sloop Inn
A historic harborside pub in Porthgain, a former industrial harbor turned picturesque village.
- Address: Porthgain SA62 5BN
- Phone: 01348 831449
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Crab sandwich (£12), local seafood chowder (£9.50)
- Opening: 12 PM - 3 PM, 6 PM - 11 PM (winter: weekends only, check ahead)
- Notes: Harbor views, art gallery upstairs
Afternoon: Porthgain to Abereiddy Coastal Walk
A dramatic section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path featuring the Blue Lagoon—a flooded slate quarry popular with coasteerers (though not recommended in winter unless experienced).
Route: Porthgain → Traeth Llyfn → Blue Lagoon → Abereiddy Distance: 3 miles one way (arrange pickup or return same way) Time: 2 hours Difficulty: Moderate (rocky sections, some steep climbs)
Blue Lagoon:
- GPS: 51.9319°N, -5.2056°W
- Access: Free, open all year
- Note: The water appears turquoise due to the slate bottom. Popular with winter wild swimmers (if you're brave enough—water temperature ~8°C).
Evening: Newport (Pembrokeshire)
Drive to Newport (not to be confused with the city in Gwent), a charming coastal town with excellent dining.
Accommodation:
Recommended: Llys Meddyg (Boutique)
- Price: £110-150/night
- Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
- Phone: 01239 820008
- Notes: Restaurant with rooms, excellent food, cozy bar
Dinner: Llys Meddyg Restaurant
Modern Welsh cuisine using local foraged ingredients.
- Price Range: £££
- Must Try: Tasting menu (£48), local venison (£24)
- Booking: Essential
- Opening: 6:30 PM - 9 PM (closed Tuesdays)
Day 5: Preseli Hills and Ancient Sites
Morning: Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber
Location: Pentre Ifan (51.9994°N, -4.7708°W)
Wales's most famous neolithic burial chamber, dating to around 3,500 BC. The massive capstone (16 tons) balances delicately on three upright stones.
Getting There: From Newport, take the A487 towards Cardigan, then follow signs to Pontfaen and Pentre Ifan.
Parking: Small layby (free, space for 8-10 cars) GPS: 51.9994°N, -4.7708°W Admission: Free, open 24 hours Best Time: Sunrise for atmospheric photos, sunset for views over the Nevern Valley
History: This was originally covered by an earthen mound. The chamber would have held the remains of important community members.
Walk: Preseli Hills Circular
The Preseli Hills (Mynydd Preseli) are the source of the bluestones used in Stonehenge. This walk takes you through the landscape that shaped ancient Britain.
Route: Pentre Ifan → Foel Drygarn (hill fort) → Carn Menyn (bluestone source) → return Distance: 6 miles Time: 3-4 hours Difficulty: Moderate (boggy sections, navigation required in mist)
Foel Drygarn:
- GPS: 51.9789°N, -4.7611°W
- Elevation: 363m
- Features: Iron Age hill fort with three concentric ramparts
Carn Menyn:
- GPS: 51.9489°N, -4.8000°W
- Significance: Source of the Stonehenge bluestones
- Note: Look for the distinctive spotted dolerite rock
Winter Warning: The Preseli Hills can experience sudden weather changes. Check forecast, bring navigation equipment, and tell someone your route.
Lunch: The Salutation Inn
A traditional country pub in the village of Felindre Farchog.
- Address: Felindre Farchog SA41 3UY
- Phone: 01239 841200
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Homemade pies (£12), local cheeses (£8)
- Opening: 12 PM - 3 PM, 6 PM - 11 PM (winter: check ahead)
- Notes: Real fire, local ales, friendly atmosphere
Afternoon: Castell Henllys Iron Age Fort
Location: Castell Henllys (52.0167°N, -4.8000°W)
A reconstructed Iron Age hill fort where you can experience life 2,000 years ago. In winter, the site is quieter and you get more personal attention from the guides.
Features:
- Reconstructed roundhouses based on archaeological evidence
- Granary raised on stilts (to protect from rats)
- Smithy's forge
- Fortified ramparts
Location: Meline, Crymych SA41 3UR GPS: 52.0167°N, -4.8000°W Opening: 10 AM - 4 PM (winter: weekends only) Admission: £8 adults, £6 concessions, £5 children Phone: 01239 891319
Winter Activities:
- Storytelling sessions in the roundhouse (weekends)
- Archaeology talks
- Traditional craft demonstrations
Evening: Fishguard
Drive to Fishguard (Abergwaun), a historic port town and the setting for the last invasion of Britain (1797).
Accommodation:
Recommended: The Fishguard Bay Hotel (Mid-range)
- Price: £75-110/night
- Address: Cliff Terrace, Fishguard SA65 9PL
- Phone: 01348 873525
- Notes: Coastal views, historic building
Dinner: The Royal Oak
n The pub where the French surrender was signed in 1797. Historic atmosphere with good food.
- Address: Market Square, Fishguard SA65 9HA
- Phone: 01348 873611
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Fish pie (£13), local cask ales
- Opening: 12 PM - 11 PM daily
- Notes: Historic interior, live music some weekends
Day 6: Marloes Peninsula and Seal Watching
Morning: Marloes Sands
Location: Marloes Sands (51.7319°N, -5.2056°W)
A spectacular beach backed by red sandstone cliffs and Gateholm Island (inspiration for several Dylan Thomas poems). In winter, this is one of the best seal-watching locations in Wales.
Getting There: From Fishguard, take the A40 to Haverfordwest, then follow signs to Marloes.
Parking: Marloes Sands car park — £2 donation (honesty box, supports National Trust).
The Walk to the Beach: 15 minutes down a lane and through a field. The path can be muddy in winter—wear boots.
Seal Watching:
- Best Time: November to February (pupping season)
- Location: Eastern end of the beach, look for seals on the rocks
- Distance: Keep 100m minimum from seals
- What to Bring: Binoculars, warm clothing
Gateholm Island: Accessible at low tide via a causeway. Check tide tables—don't get stranded.
Lunch: The Lobster Pot
A seasonal cafe in Marloes village. Open weekends in winter—call ahead.
- Address: Marloes SA62 3BH
- Phone: 01646 636642
- Price Range: £
- Must Try: Homemade soup (£5), Welsh cakes (£2)
- Opening: 10 AM - 4 PM (weekends in winter)
Alternative if closed: The Castle Inn, Dale (see below).
Afternoon: Dale Peninsula
Location: Dale (51.7083°N, -5.1667°W)
A sheltered harbor village popular with sailors and watersports enthusiasts. In winter, it's a peaceful spot for coastal walking.
Dale Fort: A 19th-century defensive fort now used as a field studies center. The grounds are open to the public.
- GPS: 51.7067°N, -5.1556°W
Dale Point Walk:
- Distance: 2 miles round trip
- Time: 1 hour
- Views: Across Milford Haven to the refineries (surprisingly atmospheric in winter mist)
West Dale Beach: A smaller, rockier beach popular with surfers. Good for beachcombing after storms.
Evening: Milford Haven
Drive to Milford Haven, the UK's largest energy port and a town with an interesting maritime history.
Accommodation:
Recommended: The Lord Nelson Hotel (Mid-range)
- Price: £70-100/night
- Address: Hamilton Terrace, Milford Haven SA73 3AP
- Phone: 01646 690070
- Notes: Harbor views, central location
Dinner: The Harp Inn
A traditional Welsh pub with excellent food and a wide selection of local ales.
- Address: 24 Hamilton Terrace, Milford Haven SA73 3AP
- Phone: 01646 690240
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Steak and ale pie (£13), Pembrokeshire red poll beef (£18)
- Opening: 12 PM - 11 PM daily
- Notes: Live music Fridays, quiz nights Wednesdays
Day 7: Solva and Return
Morning: Solva Harbour
Location: Solva (51.8708°N, -5.1917°W)
A picturesque harbor village with a flooded valley (ria) creating a natural harbor. The village cascades down the hillside in a jumble of colorful cottages.
Getting There: 20 minutes from Milford Haven via the A487.
Parking: Solva car park — £1.50 for 2 hours, £3 all day.
The Gribin: Walk up the eastern side of the harbor for panoramic views. The path starts near the harbor and climbs steeply.
- Distance: 1 mile round trip
- Time: 45 minutes
- Views: Over Solva Harbour, St Brides Bay, and the coast towards St Davids
Solva Woollen Mill:
- Address: Middle Mill, Solva SA62 6XX
- Phone: 01348 837674
- Opening: 10 AM - 5 PM (winter: weekends only)
- Products: Traditional Welsh blankets, throws, cushions
- Prices: Blankets from £85, cushions from £35
Lunch: The Cambrian Inn
A cozy pub in the heart of Solva with harbor views.
- Address: Main Street, Solva SA62 6UU
- Phone: 01348 831518
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Seafood platter (£18), homemade burgers (£12)
- Opening: 12 PM - 3 PM, 6 PM - 11 PM
- Notes: Dogs welcome, real fire, local artwork on walls
Afternoon: Newgale Beach
Location: Newgale (51.8556°N, -5.1167°W)
A 2-mile stretch of golden sand backed by a pebble bank. One of Pembrokeshire's best surfing beaches and spectacular in winter storms.
Parking: Newgale car park — £2 for 2 hours, £4 all day.
Storm Watching: If there's an Atlantic swell running, watch surfers tackle the waves from the safety of the car park or the Duke of Edinburgh Inn.
Beachcombing: After storms, this beach yields interesting driftwood, sea glass, and shells.
Final Evening: Haverfordwest
The county town of Pembrokeshire, with a castle, museum, and good dining options.
Haverfordwest Castle:
- Location: Castle Terrace, Haverfordwest SA61 2BB
- Opening: Grounds open daily, free admission
- Note: The castle is a ruin but offers views over the town
Dinner: The Bristol Trader
A riverside pub with excellent food, located in a historic building.
- Address: 9 Quay Street, Haverfordwest SA61 1BG
- Phone: 01437 762122
- Price Range: ££
- Must Try: Slow-cooked lamb (£18), fresh fish (£16)
- Opening: 12 PM - 11 PM daily
- Notes: Riverside terrace (wrapped up in winter), local ales
Practical Information
Getting There
By Car:
- From London: M4 to Carmarthen, then A40 to Haverfordwest/Tenby. 4.5 hours.
- From Cardiff: A48/M4 to Carmarthen, then A40. 2 hours.
- From Birmingham: M5 to Bristol, then M4. 4 hours.
By Train:
- Haverfordwest: Great Western Railway from Swansea (1 hour 15 mins, £15-25 single)
- Tenby: Great Western Railway from Swansea (1 hour 20 mins, £18-28 single)
- Fishguard: Transport for Wales from Swansea (2 hours, £20-30 single)
By Bus:
- National Express to Haverfordwest from London (6 hours, £25-40)
- Local buses connect major towns (winter schedules reduced)
Getting Around
Car Recommended: Public transport is limited in winter, especially to coastal attractions.
Car Hire:
- Haverfordwest: Enterprise, 01437 769100
- Tenby: Hertz, 01834 842501
- Prices: From £35/day in winter
Taxis:
- Tenby: Tenby Taxis, 01834 842424
- St Davids: St Davids Taxis, 01437 721212
- Haverfordwest: Haverfordwest Taxis, 01437 766766
Weather in Winter
Temperature: 4-10°C (39-50°F) Rainfall: Average 15-20 days with rain per month Daylight: 8 hours (sunrise ~8 AM, sunset ~4:30 PM) Storms: Most likely November to February
What to Expect:
- Changeable conditions—four seasons in one day
- Mild temperatures but wind chill can make it feel colder
- Atlantic storms bring spectacular seas but disrupt travel
- Frost and occasional snow on higher ground (Preseli Hills)
Weather Resources:
- Met Office: metoffice.gov.uk
- XC Weather (detailed local forecasts): xcweather.co.uk
- Magic Seaweed (surf/swell forecasts): magicseaweed.com
What to Pack
Essential Clothing:
- Waterproof jacket (essential—breathable fabric recommended)
- Waterproof trousers (for walking)
- Warm layers (fleece, merino wool)
- Walking boots (waterproof, ankle support)
- Warm hat and gloves
- Scarf (for wind protection)
Daypack Essentials:
- Hot flask (thermos)
- Snacks (many attractions are remote)
- Torch/headlamp (early darkness)
- Map and compass (or GPS)
- First aid kit
- Mobile phone (signal patchy in remote areas)
- Portable charger
Photography:
- Camera with weather protection
- Tripod (for low-light winter photography)
- Lens cloth (sea spray is constant)
Safety
Coastal Safety:
- Check tide times before beach walks (tide times posted at most beaches)
- Stay away from cliff edges (erosion is constant)
- Don't attempt to rescue stranded seals—call British Divers Marine Life Rescue: 01825 765546
- In emergency at sea: Call 999 and ask for Coastguard
Walking Safety:
- Tell someone your route and expected return time
- Check weather forecast before heading to exposed areas
- Preseli Hills can experience sudden mist—bring navigation equipment
- Mobile signal is patchy in remote areas
Driving:
- Rural roads are narrow and winding—allow extra time
- Watch for sheep on unfenced roads
- Some minor roads may be flooded after heavy rain
Money and Costs
Budget per Day:
- Budget: £60-80 (hostel, self-catering, free attractions)
- Mid-range: £120-160 (B&B, pub meals, paid attractions)
- Luxury: £200+ (hotels, fine dining, private tours)
Free Attractions:
- All beaches
- Coastal path walking
- Cathedral grounds (Tenby and St Davids)
- Most harbors and villages
- Pentre Ifan burial chamber
Paid Attractions:
- Castles: £4-8
- Museums: £3-6
- Boat trips: £25-40
- Cathedral tower climb: £3 (summer only)
Food and Drink
Local Specialties:
- Welsh Cawl: Hearty lamb and vegetable stew
- Welsh Rarebit: Cheese on toast (but so much better)
- Laverbread: Seaweed puree (an acquired taste)
- Pembrokeshire Early Potatoes: Protected designation of origin
- Welsh Cakes: Sweet scones with currants
- Barabrith: Fruit bread
Local Drinks:
- Brains SA: Welsh bitter (3.7%)
- Felinfoel Double Dragon: Local ale
- Penderyn Whisky: Welsh single malt
- Welsh cider: Various local producers
Festivals and Events
Winter 2026:
- Tenby Christmas Market: Late November, streets around Tudor Square
- St Davids Cathedral Christmas Services: December schedule TBA
- New Year's Day Swim: Whitesands Bay (hundreds take the plunge)
- RSPB Ramsey Island Open Days: Selected weekends (check website)
Useful Contacts
Emergency: 999 (Coastguard for coastal emergencies) Non-emergency police: 101 NHS Direct: 111 British Divers Marine Life Rescue: 01825 765546 (seals, dolphins, whales in distress)
Tourist Information:
- Tenby: 01834 842402 (winter: reduced hours)
- St Davids: 01437 763110
- Haverfordwest: 01437 763110
National Trust Pembrokeshire: 01646 623110 RSPB Ramsey Island: 01437 721600 Pembrokeshire Coast National Park: 01646 624800
Where to Eat: Complete Guide
Fine Dining
1. Cwtch Restaurant, St Davids*
- Type: Modern Welsh
- Price Range: £££
- Address: 22 High Street, St Davids SA62 6SD
- Phone: 01437 720555
- Must Try: Tasting menu (£55), Pembrokeshire beef (£26)
- Booking: Essential
2. Llys Meddyg, Newport
- Type: Modern Welsh/Foraged
- Price Range: £££
- Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
- Phone: 01239 820008
- Must Try: Tasting menu (£48), local venison (£24)
- Booking: Essential
Traditional Pubs
3. The Farmers Arms, St Davids
- Type: Traditional Welsh Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: 15 Goat Street, St Davids SA62 6RF
- Phone: 01437 720471
- Must Try: Welsh lamb cawl (£9.95), Brains SA (£3.80/pint)
4. The Stackpole Inn, Stackpole
- Type: Country Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: Stackpole, Pembroke SA71 5DF
- Phone: 01646 672324
- Must Try: Pembrokeshire beef burger (£14), homemade soup (£6.50)
5. The Sloop Inn, Porthgain
- Type: Harbor Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: Porthgain SA62 5BN
- Phone: 01348 831449
- Must Try: Crab sandwich (£12), seafood chowder (£9.50)
6. The Royal Oak, Fishguard
- Type: Historic Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: Market Square, Fishguard SA65 9HA
- Phone: 01348 873611
- Must Try: Fish pie (£13), local cask ales
Casual Dining
7. The Hope & Anchor, Tenby
- Type: Harbor Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS
- Phone: 01834 842419
- Must Try: Cawl (£9.50), Welsh rarebit (£7.50)
8. The Buccaneer Inn, Tenby
- Type: Historic Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AP
- Phone: 01834 843607
- Must Try: Fish and chips (£13.50)
9. The Cambrian Inn, Solva
- Type: Village Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: Main Street, Solva SA62 6UU
- Phone: 01348 831518
- Must Try: Seafood platter (£18), homemade burgers (£12)
10. The Harp Inn, Milford Haven
- Type: Town Pub
- Price Range: ££
- Address: 24 Hamilton Terrace, Milford Haven SA73 3AP
- Phone: 01646 690240
- Must Try: Steak and ale pie (£13)
Where to Stay: Complete Guide
Luxury
1. Warpool Court Hotel, St Davids
- Price: £120-180/night
- Address: St Davids SA62 6BN
- Phone: 01437 720300
- Notes: Coastal views, award-winning gardens
2. The Park Hotel Tenby
- Price: £85-120/night
- Address: North Cliff, Tenby SA70 8DG
- Phone: 01834 842501
- Notes: Sea views, indoor pool
Mid-Range
3. Llys Meddyg, Newport
- Price: £110-150/night
- Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
- Phone: 01239 820008
- Notes: Restaurant with rooms
4. The Fishguard Bay Hotel
- Price: £75-110/night
- Address: Cliff Terrace, Fishguard SA65 9PL
- Phone: 01348 873525
- Notes: Coastal views, historic building
5. The Lord Nelson Hotel, Milford Haven
- Price: £70-100/night
- Address: Hamilton Terrace, Milford Haven SA73 3AP
- Phone: 01646 690070
- Notes: Harbor views
Budget
6. YHA Tenby
- Price: £22-35/night
- Address: 51-53 The Green, Tenby SA70 8DJ
- Phone: 0345 371 9344
- Notes: Central location, self-catering
7. YHA Manorbier
- Price: £18-30/night
- Address: Manorbier, Tenby SA70 7TT
- Phone: 0345 371 9344
- Notes: Castle views, 10-minute walk to beach
Final Thoughts
Winter in Pembrokeshire is not for everyone. The days are short, the weather is unpredictable, and some attractions are closed. But for those willing to embrace the season, the rewards are extraordinary.
You'll have Britain's finest beaches to yourself. You'll experience the raw power of Atlantic storms from safe vantage points. You'll warm up in cozy pubs where locals actually have time to chat. You'll witness wildlife spectacles—the seal pups, the winter bird migrations—that summer visitors never see.
Pack your waterproofs, bring a sense of adventure, and discover Pembrokeshire as it's meant to be experienced—wild, windswept, and wonderfully peaceful.
Mwynhewch eich gwyliau! (Enjoy your holiday!)