Perfect 7-Day Pembrokeshire Coast Itinerary: Colorful Adventures

Planning a trip to Pembrokeshire Coast in autumn? This comprehensive 7-day itinerary gives you exact times, real locations, GPS coordinates, and current prices—everything you need for an authentic Welsh coastal experience during the most dramatic season of the year.

Britain's only coastal national park transforms in autumn as summer crowds depart, leaving empty beaches, dramatic storm skies, and one of Europe's most spectacular wildlife events: the grey seal pupping season. Add in golden bracken on the cliffs, migrating birds, and the year's best surf, and you have the perfect time to visit.

Why Visit Pembrokeshire Coast in Autumn?

Autumn (September to November) is when Pembrokeshire Coast reveals its wild, untamed character. The summer visitors have gone, the Atlantic storms begin to roll in, and the coastline becomes a theatre of natural drama.

Autumn Weather:

September: 12-17°C, often settled and warm, best beach weather
October: 10-14°C, increasing storms, spectacular skies
November: 7-11°C, wild weather, dramatic seas, seal pup peak

Seasonal Highlights:

Seal Pupping Season: 400+ grey seal pups born on Pembrokeshire beaches (September-December, peak October-November)
Storm Watching: Atlantic storms create spectacular wave action
Fall Colors: Golden bracken, purple heather, russet oak woods
Migrating Birds: Thousands of birds passing through on southward migration
Empty Beaches: Have Barafundle Bay, Whitesands, and Marloes to yourself
Best Surf: Autumn swells create perfect conditions for surfing

Best Autumn Activities:

Storm watching from safe clifftop viewpoints
Seal pup spotting at secluded beaches
Coastal walking in crisp, clear air
Surfing and watersports in autumn swells
Photography in golden autumn light
Dark sky stargazing as nights draw in

Day 1: Arrival and St Davids - Autumn Base Camp

Morning: Arrive and Settle In

Welcome to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in Autumn

Your autumn adventure begins in St Davids, Britain's smallest city, now quiet after the summer rush. The cathedral sits in its hidden valley surrounded by trees turning gold and russet, and the streets have a peaceful, end-of-season atmosphere.

Getting to St Davids:

By Car from Cardiff: A40 west through Carmarthen and Haverfordwest, then A487 to St Davids. Journey time: 2 hours 15 minutes.
By Car from London: M4 to Swansea, A48 to Carmarthen, then A40/A487. Journey time: 4 hours 30 minutes.
By Train: Nearest station is Haverfordwest (Great Western Railway from Swansea/Cardiff). Take the T11 bus or taxi (20 mins, £15-20) to St Davids.
By Bus: T11 service connects Haverfordwest, Fishguard, and St Davids hourly (reduced winter schedule from October).

Parking in St Davids:

St Davids City Car Park (The Pebbles, SA62 6QG): £2 for 2 hours, £4 all day. Pay and display, card accepted.
Oriel y Parc Gallery Car Park (SA62 6NW): Free for gallery visitors, £3 all day otherwise.
Free on-street parking: More available in autumn than summer, but still limited.

Morning Activity: St Davids Cathedral in Autumn Light

St Davids Cathedral (51.8822°N, -5.2689°W)

Address: The Pebbles, St Davids SA62 6RD
Opening Hours: Daily 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)
Entry: Free (donations welcome, suggested £5)
Website: stdavidscathedral.org.uk
Phone: 01437 720199

The 12th-century cathedral is particularly beautiful in autumn. The surrounding trees create a golden frame, and inside, the light has a warm, honey quality. Autumn often brings special choral performances—check the schedule for recitals.

Bishop's Palace (CADW)

Address: SA62 6PE (adjacent to cathedral)
Opening Hours: Daily 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM (reduced winter hours from November)
Entry: £6.50 adults, £4.20 children, £5.50 concessions
GPS: 51.8815°N, -5.2695°W

The ruined palace surrounded by autumn leaves is a photographer's dream. The Gothic arches framed by golden foliage create a magical atmosphere.

Afternoon: First Storm Watch at Porthclais

Porthclais Harbour (51.8789°N, -5.2689°W)

This tiny historic harbour, once used by St Davids Cathedral, is the perfect introduction to autumn Pembrokeshire. When Atlantic storms roll in, waves crash over the harbour walls in spectacular fashion.

Getting There:

Walk: 1 mile from St Davids (20 minutes along the coast path)
Drive: Small car park at harbour (free, limited spaces)
GPS: 51.8789°N, -5.2689°W

Storm Watching Tips:

Check weather forecasts for approaching Atlantic lows
Best viewing 2-3 hours before high tide during storms
Stay well back from waves—they can sweep over harbour walls
Bring waterproofs and a thermos of hot tea

Autumn Wildlife:

Seals: Often haul out on the rocks in the harbour
Migrating birds: Check the harbour for waders passing through
Choughs: The red-billed crows are active on the cliffs

Evening: Dinner at The Bishops

The Bishops ⭐ Highly Recommended

Type: Gastropub with rooms
Price Range: ££-£££ (mains £16-26)
Address: 21 Cross Square, St Davids SA62 6SE
Phone: 01437 720300
Website: thebishopsstdavids.co.uk
Opening: Food served 12:00-2:30 PM, 6:00-9:00 PM daily
Booking: Recommended, especially weekends

Autumn Menu Highlights:

Slow-braised Pembrokeshire beef with root vegetables (£24)
Pan-seared venison with blackberries (£26)
Pumpkin and sage risotto (£18)
Sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel (£8)

Alternative Options:

The Farmers Arms

Type: Traditional Welsh pub
Price Range: ££ (mains £12-18)
Address: Goat Street, St Davids SA62 6RF
Phone: 01437 720224
Known for: Real ales, open fires, dog-friendly
Must Try: Welsh cawl (hearty autumn soup, £9)

Where to Stay in St Davids:

Luxury: Twr y Felin Hotel

Price: £140-220/night (autumn rates lower than summer)
Address: St Davids SA62 6QT
Phone: 01437 725555
Notes: Former windmill, art hotel, cathedral views

Mid-Range: Warpool Court Hotel

Price: £100-150/night (autumn discounts available)
Address: St Davids SA62 6BN
Phone: 01437 720300
Notes: Coastal views, gardens, excellent breakfast

Budget: YHA St Davids

Price: £20-35/night (autumn/winter rates)
Address: Llaethdy, St Davids SA62 6PR
Phone: 0345 371 9643
Notes: 10-minute walk to city, self-catering kitchen, cosy lounge

Day 2: Ramsey Island and Seal Pup Spotting

Morning: Ramsey Island Autumn Wildlife Safari

Ramsey Island (Ynys Dewi) (51.8611°N, -5.3356°W)

In autumn, Ramsey Island becomes one of Britain's most important seal pupping sites. The beaches are covered in white seal pups while their mothers nurse them in the sheltered bays.

Getting There:

Thousand Islands Expeditions (sole operator)
Departure Point: St Justinians Lifeboat Station (SA62 6PY)
Parking: St Justinians car park (free but limited)
GPS of Pier: 51.8602°N, -5.3256°W

Autumn Schedule (September-November):

Landings: Daily 10:00 AM, 12:00 PM (weather permitting, reduced winter schedule)
Duration: 3.5 hours including boat trip
Price: £45 adults, £35 children (includes landing fee)
Booking: thousandislands.co.uk or 01437 721721 (essential—autumn is peak season)

What You'll See in Autumn:

Seal Pups: 400+ pups born on Ramsey beaches (September-December)
Adult Seals: Mothers nursing pups, bulls fighting for territory
Migrating Birds: Thousands passing through—chiffchaffs, blackcaps, goldcrests
Choughs: The island's resident red-billed crows
Peregrine Falcons: Hunting the abundant bird life

The Seal Pup Experience: RSPB guides will take you to viewing points where you can observe seal pups without disturbing them. The white, fluffy pups lie on the beaches while their mothers fish in the surrounding waters.

Important Notes:

Stay on marked paths—seal pups are vulnerable to disturbance
No dogs allowed
Bring warm layers—autumn on the island can be cold and windy
Binoculars essential for seal viewing

Afternoon: Whitesands Bay - Autumn Surfing

Whitesands Bay (Traeth Mawr) (51.8934°N, -5.3023°W)

Autumn brings the best surf to Pembrokeshire, and Whitesands is the premier surf beach in the north of the county. In autumn, you'll share the waves with just a handful of locals rather than summer crowds.

Beach Details:

Parking: Whitesands car park (Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority)
Price: £2 for 2 hours, £5 all day (card and cash)
Facilities: Toilets, cafe (reduced autumn hours), surf hire
Lifeguard: Weekends only in September, none October onwards

Autumn Surf Conditions:

September: Warmest water (14-16°C), consistent swells
October: Best waves, cooler water (12-14°C)
November: Powerful swells, cold water (10-12°C)
Wetsuit: 4/3mm or 5/4mm essential, boots and gloves recommended

Surf Hire:

Pembrokeshire Surf School (on beach in season)
Price: Board £15/hour, £35/day; Wetsuit £10/day
Lessons: £45 for 2-hour group lesson

Autumn Coastal Walk: If surfing isn't your thing, walk to St Davids Head (Carn Llidi) for spectacular autumn views. The bracken-covered hills turn golden-russet, and the heather is in late bloom.

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate, steep final section

Evening: Dinner at The Sloop Inn, Porthclais

The Sloop Inn ⭐ Local Favourite

Type: Harbour pub
Price Range: ££ (mains £14-20)
Address: Porthclais Harbour, St Davids SA62 6RR
Phone: 01437 720238
Opening: 12:00-11:00 PM (food until 8:00 PM in autumn)
Dog Friendly: Yes, in bar area
Special Feature: Open fire, storm watching from windows

Autumn Menu:

Seafood chowder with crusty bread (£13)
Slow-cooked lamb shank with mash (£19)
Apple crumble with custard (£7)

Alternative: The Shed Bistro, Porthgain

Type: Seafood bistro
Price Range: £££ (mains £18-28)
Address: Porthgain Harbour SA62 5BN
Phone: 01348 831518
Known for: Fresh crab, lobster, storm views from harbour
Note: 20-minute drive, book ahead—popular with autumn visitors

Day 3: Seal Pup Beaches - Marloes Peninsula

Morning: Martin's Haven and the Deer Park

Martin's Haven (51.7361°N, -5.2417°W)

The departure point for Skomer Island is also the gateway to some of Pembrokeshire's best seal pup viewing. In autumn, the beaches around Marloes are covered in seal pups.

Getting There:

Drive: B4327 from Haverfordwest, follow signs to Marloes and Martin's Haven
Parking: National Trust Martin's Haven car park
Price: £6 all day (free for NT members)
GPS: 51.7361°N, -5.2417°W

The Deer Park Peninsula (51.7356°N, -5.2056°W)

This headland offers spectacular views of Skomer Island and, in autumn, excellent seal watching. The path around the peninsula takes you above secluded beaches where seals haul out to give birth.

Walk Details:

Distance: 3 miles circular
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate, some uneven ground

Seal Watching from the Deer Park:

Wooltack Point: Look down on seals in the bays below
Gateholm Island: Seals often haul out on the beaches
Best Time: 2 hours either side of low tide
Equipment: Binoculars essential, telescope if you have one

Important:

Stay on the path—don't approach seals on beaches
Seals are protected by law—disturbance is an offence
Keep dogs on leads at all times

Afternoon: Marloes Sands and Seal Pups

Marloes Sands (51.7356°N, -5.2056°W)

This magnificent beach is one of the best places in Britain to see seal pups in autumn. The National Trust wardens monitor the seals and can guide you to safe viewing spots.

Beach Details:

Parking: Marloes Sands car park (National Trust)
Access: 15-minute walk through fields
Facilities: None on beach; toilets and seasonal cafe at Marloes village

Seal Pup Viewing: In autumn, grey seals give birth on the beaches around Marloes. The white, fluffy pups stay on the beach for 3-4 weeks while their mothers nurse them.

Guidelines for Seal Watching:

View from the clifftop path, not the beach
Stay at least 100m from any seal
Never come between a mother and pup
If a seal looks at you, you're too close
Report any injured or distressed seals to National Trust wardens

Marloes Mere (51.7400°N, -5.2156°W)

This wetland nature reserve is excellent for autumn bird migration. In October, you might see:

Waders: Curlews, whimbrels, godwits passing through
Wildfowl: Wigeon, teal arriving for winter
Passage migrants: Various warblers, chats, and flycatchers

Evening: Dinner at The Griffin, Dale

The Griffin Inn ⭐ Highly Recommended

Type: Riverside gastropub
Price Range: ££-£££ (mains £16-24)
Address: Dale Road, Dale SA62 3RB
Phone: 01646 636222
Website: griffindale.co.uk
Opening: Food 12:00-2:30 PM, 6:00-9:00 PM
Booking: Recommended for dinner

Autumn Specialties:

Pembrokeshire beef stew with dumplings (£20)
Pan-fried sea bass with roasted vegetables (£24)
Sticky ginger pudding (£8)

Why Visit: Dale's sheltered harbour is beautiful in autumn light. The pub's windows overlook the water, and the open fire creates a cosy atmosphere after a day of seal watching.

Day 4: Preseli Hills - Autumn Gold and Bronze Age Mysteries

Morning: Foel Eryr and the Golden Road

Preseli Hills (Mynyddoedd Y Preseli)

In autumn, the Preseli Hills are at their most beautiful. The bracken turns golden, the heather is in purple bloom, and the ancient trackways are lined with russet bilberry bushes. This is also where the Stonehenge bluestones originated.

Foel Eryr (51.9583°N, -4.7167°W)

Height: 468m (1,535ft)
Parking: Small layby on B4329
Walk Distance: 6 miles circular
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate, boggy in places (worse after autumn rains)

The Golden Road in Autumn: This 5,000-year-old trackway is spectacular in autumn colours. The moorland is a patchwork of:

Golden bracken: Covering the hillsides
Purple heather: Lingering blooms into October
Russet bilberries: Edible berries and red leaves
Cotton grass: White tufts against autumn colours

Panoramic Views: On clear autumn days, the visibility can be exceptional:

Snowdonia to the north
The Wicklow Mountains in Ireland to the west
The entire Pembrokeshire coast to the south

Archaeological Sites:

Beddyrafanc Burial Chamber: Neolithic tomb in autumn setting
Parc-y-Meirw: Standing stones among golden bracken
Ancient settlements: Hut circles visible as bracken dies back

Afternoon: Pentre Ifan and Castell Henllys

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber (51.9989°N, -4.7700°W)

Wales's most famous megalithic monument is particularly atmospheric in autumn. The surrounding trees create a golden frame, and misty mornings add mystery to the ancient stones.

Parking: Small CADW car park (free)
Entry: Free, always open
Best Time: Early morning for mist and soft light

Photography Tip: Autumn is the best time to photograph Pentre Ifan. The low sun creates dramatic shadows, and the surrounding trees provide a colourful backdrop.

Castell Henllys Iron Age Fort (52.0167°N, -4.7667°W)

Address: Meline, Near Newport SA41 3UT
Opening Hours: Daily 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM (reduced autumn hours)
Entry: £8.50 adults, £7.50 children, £7.95 concessions
Phone: 01239 891319
Website: castellhenllys.com

The reconstructed roundhouses are cosy in autumn, with fires burning inside. The woodland trails are carpeted with fallen leaves, and the autumn colours are spectacular.

Autumn Activities:

Apple pressing (usually October)
Harvest festivals
Halloween events (late October)
Dark sky stargazing as nights draw in

Evening: Dinner in Newport (Trefdraeth)

The Golden Lion

Type: Traditional Welsh pub
Price Range: ££ (mains £13-19)
Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
Phone: 01239 820321
Opening: Food 12:00-2:00 PM, 6:00-9:00 PM
Special Feature: Open fire, local ales

Autumn Menu:

Slow-roasted pork belly with apple sauce (£18)
Venison casserole with red wine (£20)
Toffee apple crumble (£7)

Alternative: Llys Meddyg

Type: Restaurant with rooms
Price Range: £££ (mains £20-30)
Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
Phone: 01239 820008
Known for: Locally sourced game, autumn tasting menus

Day 5: Tenby and Caldey Island - Autumn Tranquility

Morning: Tenby's Autumn Atmosphere

Tenby (Dinbych-y-pysgod) (51.6728°N, -4.7036°W)

In autumn, Tenby returns to being a local's town. The summer crowds have gone, the beaches are empty, and there's a melancholic beauty to the harbour as the season changes.

Parking:

South Beach Car Park: SA70 7LT, £2 for 2 hours, £5 all day
North Beach Car Park: SA70 7AG, similar pricing
Autumn Advantage: Much easier parking than summer months

Morning Walk: The Town Walls Follow the medieval walls in autumn light. The pastel houses have a softer glow, and the harbour is full of working boats rather than pleasure craft.

Tenby Museum and Art Gallery

Address: Castle Hill, SA70 7BP
Opening: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Tuesday-Sunday)
Entry: £6 adults, £4 children
Phone: 01834 842809

Perfect for an autumn morning if the weather turns wet.

Autumn Beach Walk:

South Beach: 2 miles of golden sand, often completely empty
Castle Beach: Good for rock pooling at low tide
North Beach: Views of Caldey Island, dramatic in autumn light

St Catherine's Island and Fort

Access: Walkable at low tide (check tide times)
Opening: Weekends only in autumn
Entry: £7 adults, £5 children

Afternoon: Caldey Island - Autumn Peace

Caldey Island (Ynys Bŷr) (51.6333°N, -4.6833°W)

The monastery island is particularly peaceful in autumn. The summer visitors have gone, leaving just the monks, the wildlife, and a handful of day-trippers.

Getting There:

Departure Point: Tenby Harbour
Operator: Caldey Island boats
Times: 10:00 AM - 2:00 PM (reduced autumn schedule)
Return Times: 11:30 AM - 3:30 PM
Price: £15 return
Note: Last boats usually end of October—check schedule

What to See:

Caldey Abbey: Peaceful without summer crowds
Old Priory: Atmospheric in autumn light
St Illtud's Church: 6th-century Celtic church
Monastery Shop: Famous chocolate and perfume

Autumn Highlights:

The island is quiet and contemplative
Autumn colours in the monastery gardens
Migrating birds stopping off
Seals sometimes visible on beaches

Important Notes:

Reduced boat schedule in autumn—check times
No dogs allowed
Modest dress requested
Monastery tea rooms serve simple lunches

Evening: Dinner at The Plantagenet

The Plantagenet ⭐ Highly Recommended

Type: Historic restaurant
Price Range: £££ (mains £19-28)
Address: Quay Hill, Tenby SA70 7BX
Phone: 01834 842350
Opening: 6:30-9:00 PM (closed Sundays)
Booking: Essential

Autumn Menu:

Roast rack of Welsh lamb with rosemary (£26)
Pan-seared duck with plum sauce (£24)
Dark chocolate tart with salted caramel (£8)

Alternative Options:

The Hope and Anchor

Type: Harbour pub
Price Range: ££ (mains £13-18)
Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS
Phone: 01834 842886
Known for: Harbour views, local ales, open fire

Where to Stay in Tenby:

Luxury: The Park Hotel

Price: £120-200/night (autumn rates)
Address: North Cliff, Tenby SA70 8DG
Phone: 01834 842501
Notes: Sea views, spa, cliff-top location

Mid-Range: Giltar Hotel

Price: £80-130/night (autumn rates)
Address: The Esplanade, Tenby SA70 7DU
Phone: 01834 842881
Notes: Sea views, popular bar

Day 6: Barafundle Bay and Storm Watching

Morning: Barafundle Bay - Autumn Solitude

Barafundle Bay (51.6156°N, -4.9083°W)

In autumn, you might have this "best beach in Britain" entirely to yourself. The summer crowds are gone, leaving just you, the golden sand, and the dramatic autumn sea.

Getting There:

Parking: Stackpole Quay National Trust car park (SA71 5LS)
Price: £3 for 2 hours, £6 all day (free for NT members)
Walk: 20 minutes along the coast path
GPS of Car Park: 51.6111°N, -4.9000°W

The Autumn Walk: The approach to Barafundle in autumn is dramatic. The gorse is still in flower, the bracken is golden, and the sea has that deep autumn blue.

Beach Activities:

Beachcombing: Autumn storms deposit interesting shells and driftwood
Photography: Morning light is spectacular in autumn
Swimming: Water temperature 11-13°C—bracing but possible with wetsuit
Solitude: Often completely empty on autumn weekdays

Afternoon: Stackpole Estate - Autumn Colours and Storm Watching

Stackpole Estate (National Trust)

This 2,000-acre estate is at its most beautiful in autumn. The woods are golden, the lakes are mirror-calm, and the coast offers storm watching opportunities.

Bosherston Lakes (51.6167°N, -4.9167°W)

The famous lily ponds are different in autumn—quieter, with misty mornings and the sound of migrating birds.

Parking: Stackpole Quay or Broad Haven South
Entry: Free (NT members)
Walk: 3-mile circular

Autumn Wildlife:

Otters: More active in autumn, especially at dawn and dusk
Waterfowl: Migrating ducks and geese arriving
Fungi: Excellent mushroom spotting in the woods (look, don't pick)

Broad Haven South (51.6167°N, -4.9167°W)

A wide, sandy beach backed by dunes. In autumn, it's wild and empty, with Church Rock standing sentinel against the grey skies.

Stack Rocks and the Green Bridge (51.6000°N, -4.9333°W)

This is Pembrokeshire's premier storm watching location. When Atlantic storms hit, waves crash against the limestone stacks in spectacular fashion.

Storm Watching from Stack Rocks:

Best Conditions: Force 8+ winds from the southwest
Safety: Stay well back from cliff edges—waves can sweep over
Photography: Bring lens cloths—sea spray is constant
Experience: The ground literally shakes under your feet

Access:

Drive: Military range road (check firing times—usually weekends are safe)
Parking: Stack Rocks car park
Facilities: None—bring everything you need

Evening: Dinner at The Stackpole Inn

The Stackpole Inn ⭐ Highly Recommended

Type: Village gastropub
Price Range: ££-£££ (mains £16-24)
Address: Stackpole, Near Pembroke SA71 5DF
Phone: 01646 672324
Website: stackpoleinn.co.uk
Opening: Food 12:00-2:30 PM, 6:00-9:00 PM
Booking: Recommended

Autumn Specialties:

Slow-braised beef with autumn vegetables (£22)
Pan-fried venison with blackberry sauce (£26)
Apple and blackberry crumble (£7.50)

Alternative: The Freshwater Inn

Type: Coastal pub
Price Range: ££ (mains £13-19)
Address: Tregwynt, Fishguard SA65 9SP
Phone: 01348 891281
Known for: Coastal location, storm watching nearby

Day 7: Solva and Departure

Morning: Solva Harbour - Autumn Light

Solva (Solfach) (51.8700°N, -5.1900°W)

Your final morning in Pembrokeshire should be spent in Solva, one of the prettiest harbours in Wales. In autumn, the light is soft and golden, perfect for photography.

Parking:

Solva Harbour Car Park: Lower level, SA62 6UU, £1/hour, £4 all day
Upper Solva Car Park: Near the A487, free, 10-minute walk

Morning Walk: The Gribin in Autumn The headland walk is spectacular in autumn colours. The bracken is golden, the heather is purple, and the views are crystal clear.

Distance: 4 miles round trip
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate

Autumn Highlights:

Seals: Often visible in the harbour entrance
Migrating birds: Check the harbour for passing waders
Autumn colours: The woods around Solva are beautiful

Solva Woollen Mill (51.8744°N, -5.1936°W)

Address: Middle Mill, Solva SA62 6BD
Opening: Daily 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Entry: Free
Phone: 01437 721227

Perfect for autumn souvenir shopping—warm Welsh blankets for the winter ahead.

Afternoon: Final Explorations and Departure

Last-Minute Autumn Options:

Option 1: Newgale Beach - Autumn Surf (51.8556°N, -5.1200°W) If there's a swell running, Newgale offers excellent autumn surf. Otherwise, it's a magnificent beach for a final walk.

Option 2: Porthgain - Storm Watching (51.9489°N, -5.1833°W) The harbour walls at Porthgain offer excellent storm watching when conditions are right.

Option 3: Final Seal Watching If you haven't had your fill of seals, check the beaches around St Davids one last time.

Souvenir Shopping:

Solva Woollen Mill: Welsh blankets and throws
St Davids: Oriel y Parc gallery, local craft shops
Tenby: Local art galleries (autumn sales often running)

Departure Tips:

Check weather forecasts—autumn storms can affect travel
Allow extra time for narrow, wet roads
Fill up with fuel in Haverfordwest
Watch for fallen leaves on the road—slippery when wet

Practical Information

Getting to Pembrokeshire Coast

By Car (Recommended for Autumn):

From London: M4 to Swansea, A48 to Carmarthen, A40 to Haverfordwest. 4.5-5 hours.
From Cardiff: A48/M4 to Carmarthen, then A40. 2.5 hours.
From Birmingham: M5 to Bristol, M4 to Swansea, then as above. 4 hours.

Important Autumn Note: Autumn storms can close the Cleddau Bridge (A477) and cause ferry cancellations from Ireland. Check conditions before travelling.

By Train:

Main Line Stations: Haverfordwest, Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven, Fishguard Harbour
Operator: Great Western Railway
Journey Times:
- London Paddington to Haverfordwest: 4.5 hours
- Cardiff to Haverfordwest: 2 hours 15 minutes
Prices: Off-peak returns from £40 (London), £22 (Cardiff)

By Bus:

T11: Haverfordwest to St Davids (hourly, reduced Sunday service)
349: Haverfordwest to Tenby (hourly)
Note: Reduced schedules in autumn/winter—check timetables

By Air:

Nearest Airport: Cardiff (CWL), 2 hours drive
Alternative: Bristol (BRS), 2.5 hours drive

Getting Around in Autumn

Car Hire:

Haverfordwest: Enterprise, Europcar
Note: Book ahead—fewer vehicles available in autumn

Taxis:

St Davids: 01437 720222, 01437 721111
Haverfordwest: 01437 769999
Tenby: 01834 842424

Important Autumn Driving Notes:

Watch for fallen leaves on roads—slippery when wet
Narrow lanes can be muddy after rain
Sheep on roads—especially in Preseli Hills
Fog common in valleys on autumn mornings

Autumn Weather and What to Pack

Typical Autumn Conditions:

September: 12-17°C, often warm and settled, best weather
October: 10-14°C, increasing storms, spectacular skies
November: 7-11°C, wild weather, shortest days

What to Pack for Autumn:

Essential Clothing:

Waterproof jacket: Essential—autumn storms are frequent
Warm layers: Fleece, down jacket, thermal base layers
Waterproof trousers: For storm watching and wet walks
Walking boots: Waterproof, good grip for slippery leaves
Warm hat and gloves: Essential for clifftops
Buff/scarf: Protects against wind

Storm Watching:

Waterproofs: Head-to-toe protection
Binoculars: For seal watching from cliffs
Camera with rain cover: Storm photography is spectacular
Thermos: Hot drinks essential
Head torch: For early dark in November

Seal Watching:

Binoculars/Telescope: Essential—view from distance
Field guide: To identify seals and understand behaviour
Warm clothing: Standing still watching seals gets cold

Other Essentials:

Backpack: 30-40L for extra layers
Water bottle: Refill in towns
Sunscreen: Autumn sun can still be strong
Insect repellent: Midges can persist into October
First aid kit: Include blister plasters
Cash: Some rural places don't take cards
Power bank: Cold drains batteries faster

Money and Costs

Daily Budget (Autumn):

Budget: £55-75/day (hostel, self-catering, free activities)
Mid-Range: £100-160/day (B&B, pub meals, paid attractions)
Luxury: £200+/day (hotels, fine dining, private tours)

Note: Autumn accommodation is 20-40% cheaper than summer.

Typical Costs:

Coffee: £2.50-3.50
Pub lunch: £12-18
Restaurant dinner: £18-32
Pint of beer: £4-5.50
Glass of wine: £5-8
Attraction entry: £6-15
Boat trip: £35-50 (autumn seal trips premium)

Safety and Emergency Information

Emergency Services:

Emergency: 999 (coastguard, ambulance, fire, police)
Coastguard: 999 or VHF Channel 16
Non-Emergency Police: 101

Autumn-Specific Safety:

Storm Watching:

Stay well back from cliff edges
Waves can sweep over seemingly safe viewpoints
Check tide times—high tide + storm = biggest waves
Don't risk it for a photo
Tell someone where you're going

Seal Watching:

Never approach seal pups—mothers may abandon them
Stay on marked paths
Keep dogs on leads
Disturbing seals is a criminal offence

Coastal Path in Autumn:

Leaves can hide slippery rocks
Shorter daylight hours—plan walks accordingly
Fog can reduce visibility suddenly
Carry a torch in November

Medical:

Withybush Hospital: Haverfordwest SA61 2PZ (A&E)
Minor Injuries: Tenby, Pembroke Dock
Pharmacies: In all main towns (reduced hours in autumn)

Responsible Travel in Autumn

Seal Watching Guidelines:

Distance: Stay at least 100m from any seal
Path: Stay on marked coastal path
Dogs: Keep on leads near seal beaches
Photos: Use zoom lenses, don't approach for close-ups
Report: Injured seals to National Trust or RSPCA

Storm Watching Responsibly:

Don't take unnecessary risks for photos
Stay off beaches during storms
Respect road closures
Don't drive through flood water

Supporting Local in Autumn:

Autumn is the quiet season—your visit really helps local businesses
Many attractions reduce hours—check before visiting
Book restaurants ahead—some close on quiet weekdays
Buy local produce—autumn is harvest season

Where to Eat - Complete Guide

St Davids Area

The Bishops ⭐⭐⭐

Type: Gastropub
Price: ££-£££
Address: 21 Cross Square, SA62 6SE
Phone: 01437 720300
Best for: Autumn game dishes, open fire

The Farmers Arms

Type: Traditional pub
Price: ££
Address: Goat Street, SA62 6RF
Phone: 01437 720224
Best for: Real ales, cawl, cosy atmosphere

Dale and Marloes

The Griffin Inn ⭐⭐⭐

Type: Riverside gastropub
Price: ££-£££
Address: Dale Road, Dale SA62 3RB
Phone: 01646 636222
Best for: Post-seal watching dinner, seafood

The Shed Bistro

Type: Seafood bistro
Price: £££
Address: Porthgain Harbour SA62 5BN
Phone: 01348 831518
Best for: Crab, lobster, storm views

Tenby Area

The Plantagenet ⭐⭐⭐

Type: Historic restaurant
Price: £££
Address: Quay Hill, Tenby SA70 7BX
Phone: 01834 842350
Best for: Special occasions, autumn menus

The Hope and Anchor

Type: Harbour pub
Price: ££
Address: St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS
Phone: 01834 842886
Best for: Harbour views, local atmosphere

Stackpole Area

The Stackpole Inn ⭐⭐⭐

Type: Village gastropub
Price: ££-£££
Address: Stackpole SA71 5DF
Phone: 01646 672324
Best for: Post-beach dining, autumn game

Where to Stay - Complete Guide

St Davids

Twr y Felin Hotel (Luxury)

Price: £140-220/night (autumn rates)
Address: St Davids SA62 6QT
Phone: 01437 725555

Warpool Court Hotel (Mid-Range)

Price: £100-150/night (autumn rates)
Address: St Davids SA62 6BN
Phone: 01437 720300

YHA St Davids (Budget)

Price: £20-35/night (autumn/winter rates)
Address: Llaethdy, St Davids SA62 6PR
Phone: 0345 371 9643

Tenby

The Park Hotel (Luxury)

Price: £120-200/night (autumn rates)
Address: North Cliff, Tenby SA70 8DG
Phone: 01834 842501

Giltar Hotel (Mid-Range)

Price: £80-130/night (autumn rates)
Address: The Esplanade, Tenby SA70 7DU
Phone: 01834 842881

Newport (Preseli Hills)

Llys Meddyg

Price: £120-180/night (autumn rates)
Address: East Street, Newport SA42 0SY
Phone: 01239 820008

Autumn Events and Festivals

September:

Seal pupping season begins: First pups appear on beaches
Heritage Open Days: Free access to historic buildings
Autumn equinox: Gatherings at ancient sites

October:

Peak seal pupping: Best time for seal watching
Pembrokeshire Fish Week: Celebrating local seafood
Halloween events: At Castell Henllys and other attractions
Half-term activities: Family events at National Trust properties

November:

Storm season peak: Best storm watching
Fireworks displays: Bonfire Night (November 5)
Christmas preparations: Some towns start festive markets
Dark Sky Week: Stargazing events

Seal Pup Watching Guide

Where to See Seal Pups

Ramsey Island:

400+ pups born annually
Boat trips with RSPB guides
Best viewing: October-November

Marloes Peninsula:

Several beaches with pupping seals
View from clifftop path
National Trust wardens on site

Skomer Island:

Smaller numbers but reliable
Boat trips weather dependent
Autumn only—no landings in winter

Seal Pup Facts

Grey Seal Pupping:

Season: September to December (peak October-November)
Pup appearance: White fur (lanugo), 10-15kg at birth
Nursing: 3-4 weeks of fat-rich milk
Weaning: Mother leaves, pup fasts for weeks
First swim: When hunger drives them to water
Survival: 50% don't survive first year

Viewing Guidelines:

Stay at least 100m away
Never come between mother and pup
Keep dogs on leads
Don't touch—seals bite!
Report injured seals to professionals

Storm Watching Guide

Best Storm Watching Locations

Stack Rocks and Green Bridge:

Most spectacular wave action
Waves crash over 50m cliffs
Check military range firing times

Porthclais Harbour:

Waves break over harbour walls
Safe viewing from pub windows
Easy access from St Davids

Marloes Peninsula:

Huge Atlantic swells
Dramatic cliff scenery
Seals visible between storms

Safety Rules

Stay back: At least 10m from cliff edges
Check tides: High tide + storm = biggest waves
Watch the weather: Force 8+ for best action
Don't risk it: No photo is worth your life
Tell someone: Let people know your plans
Emergency: 999 if you see anyone in trouble

What to Bring

Waterproofs (head to toe)
Binoculars
Camera with rain cover
Thermos of hot drink
Head torch (winter)
Fully charged phone

Final Tips for Your Autumn Adventure

Book seal trips early: Autumn is peak season for wildlife watching
Be flexible: Storms can disrupt plans—have indoor alternatives
Pack for all weathers: Autumn can bring four seasons in one day
Bring binoculars: Essential for seals and migrating birds
Respect wildlife: Stay distant, stay safe, stay legal
Embrace the dark: Shorter days mean cosy evenings and starry skies
Try the game: Autumn is venison, duck, and pheasant season
Support local: Your autumn visit really helps year-round businesses

Pembrokeshire Coast in autumn is raw, wild, and unforgettable. From the fluffy white seal pups on golden beaches to the thunder of Atlantic storms against ancient cliffs, this is nature at its most dramatic. Wrap up warm, embrace the weather, and let this extraordinary corner of Wales show you its wild heart.

Croeso i Sir Benfro yn yr Hydref—Welcome to Pembrokeshire in Autumn!