Five Days on the Pembrokeshire Coast: What the Brochures Won't Tell You About Seal Season

The first time I visited Pembrokeshire in autumn, I made a classic rookie mistake. I arrived at Marloes Sands at 2 PM—prime seal-pupping season, perfect weather, absolutely empty beach. "Brilliant," I thought. "I've beaten the crowds." What I hadn't checked was the tide table. By the time I reached the waterline, the tide was coming in so fast I had to sprint back carrying £800 of camera gear, wading through waist-deep water while a colony of seals watched with what I can only describe as judgement.

Pembrokeshire doesn't care about your itinerary. This 240-square-mile coastal national park—Britain's only one designated primarily for its coastline—operates on Atlantic time. The tides dictate your schedule. The weather changes in minutes. And if you want to see Atlantic grey seal pups without contributing to their abandonment by stressed mothers, you need to know what you're doing.

This guide assumes you've got decent waterproofs, a tolerance for narrow Welsh lanes with grass growing down the middle, and binoculars that cost more than your tent. If that sounds like you, keep reading.

Why Autumn? (And Why You Might Regret It)

Autumn in Pembrokeshire runs September through November, and it's when this coastline shows its true personality. Summer visitors get flat seas, packed beaches, and water warm enough for a quick dip if you're Scottish or lying to yourself. Autumn visitors get:

Temperatures between 8-15°C (46-59°F), which feels significantly colder when a Force 8 gale is trying to remove your ears
Seventeen hours of daylight in September, shrinking to eight by late November
A genuine chance of being blown sideways while trying to drink coffee
The best wildlife spectacle in the British Isles

Here's the honest assessment: autumn Pembrokeshire is not for everyone. The coastal buses stop running most routes after October half-term. Some cafes close entirely. And if you're imagining crisp autumn walks with golden leaves, know that most of this coastline is gorse, heather, and cliff grass that turns brown, not gold.

But if you want to see wildlife—proper, up-close, National Geographic wildlife—this is the window. From mid-September through November, Atlantic grey seals haul out on remote beaches to give birth. The RSPB on Ramsey Island runs landing trips through October. And on a stormy day at Strumble Head, you'll witness the Atlantic Ocean reminding you how small you actually are.

Day 1: St Davids and the First Rule of Seal Watching

Morning: St Davids Cathedral and Learning Patience

St Davids claims to be Britain's smallest city, which is technically true because it has a cathedral, but misleading because it feels like a village with delusions of grandeur. The population is roughly 1,600. The number of tourists who've heard about the seal pups is roughly ten times that in October. Get used to queues.

St Davids Cathedral (51.8816°N, -5.2686°W)

Open daily 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (winter hours from November)
Entry: Free, but the donation box gets heavy use
The purple sandstone looks impressive in low autumn light, I'll give it that

The cathedral itself is genuinely worth your time—the medieval wooden ceiling survived Henry VIII's reformation purge and still looks angry about it. The shrine of St David (the actual saint, not the city) is suitably dramatic. But honestly? You're here to kill time while waiting for the tide.

Bishop's Palace (CADW site, 51.8821°N, -5.2694°W)

Entry: £4.50 / £3.60 concessions
Hours: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
Worth it for the photo opportunities, skip if you're running short on time

Parking reality check: Oriel y Parc car park charges £2 for two hours, £4 all day. The free on-street parking involves driving in circles around residential streets hoping someone's leaving. In October, I spent twenty minutes circling before giving up and paying. Save yourself the stress.

Coffee that won't disappoint: Cwtch Café (18 Cross Square, SA62 6SP)

Opens 9:00 AM, closes 4:00 PM (autumn hours)
Welsh cakes are homemade and substantial
Coffee is actually decent, which matters when you're going to be sitting in a hide for three hours later

Afternoon: Whitesands Bay and the 100-Metre Rule

Drive ten minutes northwest to Whitesands Bay (51.8934°N, -5.3056°W). This is where most visitors see their first seals, and also where most visitors ruin it for everyone else by getting too close.

The hard truth about seal watching:

Atlantic grey seals are not Labradors. They don't want your attention. A mother seal who feels threatened will abandon her pup, and that pup will die. The Marine Management Organisation recommends 100 metres minimum distance. I recommend 150 metres, because people consistently underestimate distance over water.

Whitesands Bay practicalities:

Car park: £3 for two hours, £6 all day, cash only and the machine doesn't give change
National Trust members park free but still need to display the membership card
Best seal viewing: southern end of the beach, at low tide, through binoculars

Check tide times before you leave St Davids. The seals haul out on rocks that are only exposed two hours either side of low water. If you arrive at high tide, you'll see waves and disappointment.

Walk option: The coast path continues north to St Justinian's lifeboat station (2 miles round trip). The clifftop gives you better seal viewing angles without disturbing them. Plus, the lifeboat station is genuinely impressive—Tamar-class boats launching down a 100-foot slipway into Atlantic swells.

Evening: Dinner Where the Locals Actually Eat

The Bishops (The Cross, SA62 6SD)

Phone: 01437 720300—book ahead, seriously
Food served: 12:00–2:30 PM, 6:00–9:00 PM
Price: ££–£££

This is where the cathedral staff eat. That tells you everything. The Pembrokeshire lamb rump is genuinely local—the owner's brother farms about three miles away. The sea bass comes from boats that left Tenby harbour this morning. It's not cheap, but it's honest.

Alternative if The Bishops is full: The Farmers Arms (Goat Street, SA62 6RF)

More pub than restaurant
Cask ales rotate regularly
Dog-friendly, which matters if you're travelling with a terrified whippet like I was

Day 2: Ramsey Island and the Reality of Boat Trips

Morning: Thousand Islands Expeditions and Managing Expectations

Ramsey Island is the reason most wildlife enthusiasts come to Pembrokeshire in autumn. It's an RSPB reserve with one of the largest Atlantic grey seal breeding colonies in southern Britain. It's also an island in the Celtic Sea, which means getting there depends entirely on conditions.

Thousand Islands Expeditions

Departs: St Justinian's Lifeboat Station (51.8889°N, -5.3133°W)
Phone: 01437 721721
Landing trips through October: £35 adults, £25 children
Non-landing wildlife cruises November: £28 adults, £20 children
Duration: 2–3 hours depending on sea state

Here's what the brochure won't tell you: landing trips get cancelled. A lot. If there's a swell running, if the wind is above Force 4, if the skipper looks at the sky and frowns—you're not landing. I had three consecutive days cancelled in October 2023 before finally getting across on the fourth attempt.

What to bring:

Waterproof jacket (not water-resistant—waterproof)
Waterproof trousers (you will get spray on your legs)
Hat that won't blow off
Gloves
Binoculars
Seasickness tablets if you're even slightly doubtful

The crossing takes 20–30 minutes in good conditions. In rough conditions, it takes however long the Atlantic decides. The boat is a rigid inflatable with no shelter. You will be cold. You will be wet. And if you're lucky, you'll see seals, porpoises, and choughs (red-billed crows) that exist nowhere else in Wales.

Parking: St Justinian's car park, £3 all day, honesty box. Arrive 30 minutes before departure to kit up and get the safety briefing.

Afternoon: Porthclais Harbour and the Art of Doing Nothing

Back on the mainland, drive five minutes to Porthclais Harbour (51.8828°N, -5.3167°W). This is a tiny, working harbour that mostly doesn't work anymore—too small for modern boats. What it offers is one of the best afternoon-light photography spots on the peninsula.

The walk from Porthclais to St Non's Bay passes through autumn-blackberry hedgerows. If you're here in late September, bring a container. The sloes in October are perfect for gin-making if you're that kind of person.

St Non's Chapel (ruins, 51.8778°N, -5.3139°W)

Free entry, always open
Alleged birthplace of St David
Mostly interesting for the coastal views and the quiet

Evening: The Shed Bistro (If You Can Get In)

The Shed Bistro (Porthgain, SA62 5BN)

Phone: 01348 831518
Hours: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM, closed evenings

I know, I know—it closes early. But if you're following this itinerary properly, you'll be having a late lunch here instead of dinner. This place serves fish that was swimming this morning, cooked simply, served in a converted brickworks. It's extraordinary. Get the crab if they have it.

Actual dinner option: The Sloop Inn (St Julian's Street, Tenby SA70 7AS)

45-minute drive from St Davids
Dating to 1746, which shows in the low ceilings
Pembrokeshire crab and locally caught lobster are the reasons to come
Gets busy with tourists, but the seafood justifies it

Day 3: Marloes Peninsula and Where the Real Action Is

Morning: Marloes Sands and the Deer Park Seal Colony

Marloes Sands (51.7333°N, -5.2000°W) is where I made my tide-related mistake. Learn from my failure.

Critical information:

Car park is National Trust: £3 for two hours, £6 all day, free for members
The walk to the beach takes 15 minutes down a steep path
The beach is only accessible at low tide
The beach is two miles long and has no exits except the way you came

The seal colony at the Deer Park end of the beach is the most reliable place to see seal pups on mainland Pembrokeshire. But—and this is crucial—you cannot access the beach where the seals are. You must watch from the clifftops.

The clifftop walk:

Start: Marloes village or the Deer Park car park
Distance: Circular route, 3.5 miles
Terrain: Grassy clifftop, can be muddy after rain
Views: Spectacular across to Skomer Island

Seal watching from the cliffs:

Bring your best binoculars or a spotting scope
Look for white seal pups on the beaches below Martin's Haven and Wooltack Point
White pups have been born within the last 3 weeks; they're still nursing
Mothers will be nearby, usually in the water watching
If you see a pup alone, the mother is almost certainly nearby underwater—do not assume it's abandoned

I watched a couple try to "rescue" a pup here last year. They got within 20 metres before I could reach them. The mother, who'd been resting offshore, charged the beach and dragged the pup into the water. The couple thought they'd saved it. They'd probably just killed it—pups can drown during panicked relocations.

If you genuinely find an injured seal, call British Divers Marine Life Rescue: 01825 765546. Otherwise, observe from the cliffs and keep your distance.

Afternoon: The Welsh Wildlife Centre (And Why You Might Skip It)

Drive 45 minutes northeast to the Welsh Wildlife Centre at Cilgerran (52.0564°N, -4.6333°W).

Honest assessment: This is a nice reserve. The Teifi Gorge is genuinely beautiful in autumn. But after Ramsey Island and the Deer Park seals, it feels like dessert after a main course. The wildlife is more understated—otters if you're incredibly lucky at dawn or dusk, migratory birds if you know your waders from your warblers.

Entry: Free, parking £3

Open 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Cafe closes at 4:00 PM

Better alternative if you're seal-obsessed: Skip this and drive back toward St Davids for a second attempt at Ramsey Island if your first trip was cancelled. Or spend the afternoon properly exploring the Deer Park peninsula—most visitors do the seal walk and leave, but the whole peninsula rewards slow exploration.

Cilgerran Castle (CADW, nearby)

Entry: £4.50 / £3.60
Hours: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
Dramatic ruins, good for photos, skip if you're castled-out

Evening: Newport (Pembrokeshire, Not the Other One)

The Golden Lion (Bridge Street, SA42 0TB)

Phone: 01239 820321
Riverside gastropub
Cardigan Bay lobster when available, local lamb always
Price: ££–£££

This is where the locals celebrate birthdays. That should tell you the quality-to-price ratio is favourable.

Alternative: Llys Meddyg (East Street, SA42 0SY)

More restaurant than pub
Foraged ingredients, which in autumn means mushrooms you'll hope the chef recognises
Also has rooms if you want to stay in Newport rather than drive

Day 4: The Preseli Hills and Ancient Landscapes

Morning: Pentre Ifan and Standing Stones in the Rain

The Preseli Hills supplied the bluestones for Stonehenge. Archaeologists still argue about how Neolithic people moved 4-ton rocks 200 miles without wheels. Having walked these hills in autumn rain, I'm convinced they were just desperate to get out of the weather.

Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber (51.9992°N, -4.7708°W)

Free entry, always open
Parking: Small layby, free, 5-minute walk to monument
5,000 years old, which puts your Instagram worries in perspective

The chamber is impressive in any light, but autumn mornings often bring mist that makes it look properly ancient. The surrounding bracken turns gold in late October, and the gorse flowers sporadically even into November if it's mild.

Foel Eryr (51.9483°N, -4.7333°W)

Highest point in the Preselis at 468m
Views to Ireland on clear days
Clear days in autumn are rare

If the weather is closed in, skip the summit attempt. Navigation on these open moorlands is tricky in mist, and the paths aren't always obvious. I spent three hours lost here once, following what I thought was a path that turned out to be a sheep track. The sheep found this hilarious.

Gors Fawr Stone Circle (51.9428°N, -4.7472°W)

Free, small layby on B4329
Small circle, dramatic setting below the Preseli ridge
Worth 20 minutes if you're passing

Afternoon: Castell Henllys and Reconstructed History

Castell Henllys Iron Age Village (52.0167°N, -4.7667°W)

Entry: £8 adults, £6 children, £7 concessions
Hours: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM (autumn, weekends only in November)
Phone: 01239 891319

This is a reconstructed Iron Age fort on original 2,000-year-old foundations. The roundhouses are built to archaeological specifications, which means low doorways you'll forget about exactly once. The woodland setting is spectacular in autumn colour.

My take: It's interesting for an hour. The reconstructed roundhouses give you a sense of scale that ruins can't. But it's a reconstruction, not an archaeological site, so manage expectations accordingly.

Evening: Fishguard and the Last Invasion of Britain

The Royal Oak (The Square, SA65 9HE)

Phone: 01348 873611
Historic harbourside pub
Site of the 1797 French surrender (last invasion of mainland Britain, lasted three days, involved a lot of wine)
Good fish and chips, better stories

Alternative: The Ferryman (Quay Street, Lower Town, SA65 9LP)

Dylan Thomas filmed "Under Milk Wood" here
Seafood focus, harbour views
Lower Town is worth the detour regardless of where you eat

Day 5: Storm Watching and Tenby

Morning: Strumble Head or Bust

Strumble Head (52.0167°N, -5.0667°W) is the most dramatic storm-watching location in Wales. The lighthouse stands on an island connected by a bridge, and when an Atlantic depression rolls through, the waves break over the rocks with enough force to rattle your fillings.

Storm watching reality:

Best conditions: Force 7 or above, 2–3 hours before high tide
Check Met Office warnings—the best viewing often coincides with weather warnings
Stay on designated viewpoints, well back from edges
Sneaker waves are real—the seventh wave is often significantly larger than the six before it

Safety is not optional here. Every year, people get swept off Pembrokeshire cliffs by waves they thought were far enough away. The water is 8°C in autumn. You have minutes, not hours, if you go in.

If conditions aren't stormy, Porthgain Harbour (51.9489°N, -5.1833°W) is a gentler alternative. The industrial archaeology—ruined brickworks and hoppers—makes for good photography, and The Shed bistro (if you missed it earlier) is worth the trip by itself.

Afternoon: Tenby in the Off-Season

Tenby (51.6722°N, -4.7000°W) transforms in autumn. The summer crowds vanish. The beaches empty. The ice cream shops close. What's left is a genuinely charming walled town with medieval streets and harbour views.

Caldey Island operates boats through late October most years, but check before counting on it. If it's running:

Tenby Boat Trips: 01834 842796
£12 return
Monastery, chocolate factory, surprisingly good coffee

If Caldey's closed (likely by November), explore Tenby itself:

Tenby Museum: Wales's oldest independent museum, actually interesting
St Catherine's Island: Fortress at Castle Beach, exterior only, tide dependent
Town Walls: Full circuit possible, good views

Evening: Farewell Dinner

The Salt Cellar (13 Tudor Square, SA70 7AJ)

Phone: 01834 842707
Seafood restaurant, harbour views
Price: £££
Booking essential

This is your splurge meal. The lobster is local, the sea bass is line-caught, and the scallops are hand-dived. It's expensive. It's worth it.

The Practical Stuff I Wish Someone Had Told Me

Getting There and Around

By car: Essential. Public transport in rural Pembrokeshire in autumn is theoretical at best. Roads are narrow, often single-track with passing places. The A487 along the coast gets congestated around Fishguard and Cardigan. Allow extra time.

From London: M4 to Swansea, A48/A40 to Haverfordwest, then follow signs. Journey time: 4.5–5 hours if you're lucky, 6+ if you hit Swansea traffic wrong.

By train: Main stations at Haverfordwest, Fishguard, and Tenby. Transport for Wales operates the routes. London to Haverfordwest takes 4.5–5 hours with changes. Book in advance for cheaper fares—walk-up prices are painful.

Buses: Coastal buses (Puffin Shuttle, Celtic Coaster) run reduced autumn timetables. Some routes stop entirely after October half-term. Check tfw.wales before making plans that depend on buses.

Weather: What You're Actually In For

September: Often warm and settled. "Indian summers" happen. Rain averages 80mm. Daylight: 11–13 hours.

October: Increasingly unpredictable. First proper Atlantic storms. Rain averages 100mm. Daylight: 9–11 hours.

November: Storm season. Gales common. Rain averages 110mm. Daylight: 8–9 hours.

The wind is the factor the forecasts don't fully capture. A 15mph wind at sea level becomes 40mph on exposed clifftops. I've seen grown adults crawling on hands and knees at Strumble Head during a Force 9.

What to Pack (And What to Leave)

Essential:

Waterproof jacket (not showerproof—fully waterproof)
Waterproof trousers (you will need these)
Warm layers: fleece, thermal base layers
Hat and gloves (wind chill is real)
Walking boots with ankle support (paths are rocky and can be slippery)
Binoculars (for seal watching—essential)
Head torch (it gets dark early)

Useful:

Camera with telephoto lens (for wildlife)
Tripod (for storm photography)
Power bank (cold drains batteries)
Tide tables (or app—I use UK Tides)

Leave at home:

Umbrellas (the wind will destroy them)
Anything white or bright for seal watching (neutral colours only)
Expectations of phone signal (patchy at best on the coast path)

Where to Stay: Realistic Options

St Davids area:

Twr y Felin Hotel (SA62 6QT)

£180–250/night
Contemporary art hotel, genuinely excellent restaurant
Book well ahead for October

YHA St Davids (Llaethdy, SA62 6PR)

£25–40 dormitory, £70–90 private rooms
Converted farmhouse, best location for the price
Self-catering kitchen saves money on restaurants

Tenby area:

The Park Hotel (North Cliff, SA70 7AG)

£100–150/night
Sea views, central location
Gets booked up by weekenders from Cardiff and Swansea

YHA Manorbier (SA70 7TT)

£20–35/night
Castle views, 10-minute walk to beach
Basic but adequate

Emergency Contacts (Save These)

Emergency services: 999 or 112
Coastguard: 999 (coastal emergencies)
British Divers Marine Life Rescue (seals): 01825 765546
RSPB Ramsey Island: 01437 721721
NHS 111: Non-emergency medical

Final Thoughts

Pembrokeshire in autumn isn't a gentle introduction to wildlife watching. It's cold. It's wet. The tides will mess up your schedule. The boat trips will get cancelled. You'll spend more time than you planned sitting in car parks waiting for the rain to stop.

But when you finally get that view—a seal pup nursing on a remote beach, a peregrine stooping on a cliff face, storm waves breaking over Strumble Head lighthouse—you'll understand why people come back year after year.

This coastline doesn't do convenience. It does authenticity. And in an age of Instagram tourism and staged wildlife encounters, that authenticity is worth every soggy mile.

Safe travels. Keep your distance from the seals. And bring extra socks—you'll need them.