Pembrokeshire Coast: Where 350,000 Seabirds Stage a Nightly Takeover

By Marcus Chen | Wildlife Correspondent

I've come to Pembrokeshire three times, and every visit starts with the same lie I tell myself: this time, I'm just here for the puffins. By day two, I'm scrambling down cliffs at dawn to catch seal pups at high tide. By day four, I'm explaining to a bemused farmer why I'm crouched in a field at 5 AM recording Manx shearwater calls on my phone.

Britain's only coastal national park hoards some of the most absurd wildlife densities in Western Europe. Three hundred and fifty thousand pairs of Manx shearwaters nest on a single island. That's not a typo. The entire population returns to Skomer at night in spring, and if you camp nearby, you can hear them—not see them, hear them—swarming overhead like a feathery hurricane.

But Pembrokeshire doesn't hand itself over easily. The best beaches require walks. The best wildlife experiences demand 6 AM starts and several layers of patience. This isn't a destination that entertains you; it's a coastline that makes you earn every moment.

What follows is the version I'd send my closest friends—the walks where you won't see another human for hours, the beaches that require genuine effort to reach, and the restaurants where locals actually eat after a day on the water.

The Lay of the Land: Understanding Pembrokeshire

Pembrokeshire is not "on the way" to anywhere. It's a deliberate detour, a thumb of Wales jutting into the Irish Sea. The nearest motorway is an hour east, and that's precisely the point.

Getting Here:

By car: Essential. Fly to Cardiff (CWL) and drive 2.5 hours west. The lanes here were built for sheep, not SUVs—book a small car.
By train: Haverfordwest has rail connections, but you'll need a car from there.
By ferry: Irish Ferries from Rosslare to Fishguard (2 hours) if you're coming from Ireland.

When to Go:

March through May is the sweet spot. Summer crowds haven't arrived, puffins are back on Skomer from mid-April, and the coastal path isn't a conga line of hiking poles.
May is puffin prime time. The birds return mid-April, but by May they're settled, breeding, and approachable.
Weather is a suggestion, not a promise. I've had hail in April and t-shirt weather in March. Pack for four seasons in one day.

Book Skomer now. Not tomorrow. Now. The boat limits are strict and weekend slots vanish weeks ahead.

The Beaches That Filter Out the Casual Visitor

Barafundle Bay: Britain's Best-Kept Worst Secret

The Harsh Truth: Barafundle Bay is not a secret. It's regularly voted "Britain's best beach" by magazines that measure these things, which means on a sunny Saturday in July, it looks like Bournemouth. In spring, though—specifically a Tuesday in April—you might share it with a dog walker and a determined German family.

Getting There (The Real Way): Park at Stackpole Quay National Trust Car Park (SA71 5LS, £6 all day, free for NT members). Ignore the temptation to park closer at Broad Haven South. The 20-minute walk from the quay is the point—the approach through pines, the first glimpse of turquoise between the trees, the realization that yes, the water really is that color.

GPS Pin: 51.6156°N, -4.9083°W

The path involves steps. Quite a few. If you have mobility issues, this isn't your beach—Broad Haven South is accessible and almost as good. For everyone else, the minor exertion acts as a filter; the less committed don't bother.

The Beach Itself: Barafundle is a crescent of golden sand backed by dunes, enclosed by low limestone cliffs. No facilities. No ice cream truck. Just sand, sea, and whatever you carried in.

What to Actually Do:

Rock pool at the eastern end at low tide. Bring a net if you have kids, or just patience. I've seen blennies, shore crabs, and once, a small octopus that I still think about.
Swim if you're brave. The cold is shocking for exactly four seconds, then your skin goes numb and it's fine. Probably.
Walk west along the coast path toward Broad Haven South. The cliffs here are low enough to scramble down in places, and you'll find smaller coves where you're genuinely alone.

Practicalities:

Arrive before 10 AM on spring weekends. The car park fills by 11.
Bring everything. Water, food, sun cream (no shade), a windbreaker.
Check tides. Some sections of cliff become impassable at high water.

Marloes Sands: The Beach That Disappears

Drive 5 minutes from the Skomer departure point to Marloes Sands car park (National Trust, £5/day). The beach here is vast at low tide—over a mile of sand backed by red sandstone cliffs. Church Rock stands offshore, a dramatic sea stack.

The Tide Warning: Marloes Sands completely disappears at high tide. Check times before you walk down. Getting trapped means a long scramble up cliffs or a wait of hours.

The Deer Park Walk: From the car park, a 4-mile loop takes you around Marloes Deer Park (never actually a deer park, just an Iron Age promontory fort). The headland gives panoramic views to Skomer, Skokholm, and distant Grassholm. I've watched seals here for an hour without seeing another person.

Newport Sands: The Perfect Farewell

End your trip at Newport Sands (Traeth Mawr, SA42 0XR, £5 all-day parking at Newport Parrog). It's a mile-long beach at low tide, backed by dunes and the Nevern Estuary. This is where Pembrokeshire feels most like itself—quiet, uncommercial, beautiful without trying.

The Estuary: Wading birds—oystercatchers, curlews, redshanks—feed in the shallows. I've seen seals here regularly, often close to shore.

Skomer Island: The Wildlife Event of the Year

The Full Disclosure

Everything about Skomer depends on the boats running. If they're cancelled—too windy, too rough, mechanical issue—your plans collapse. Check the Dale Sailing website (or call 01646 603110) the evening before, then again at 8 AM.

Booking is non-negotiable. Book at welshwildlife.org weeks ahead for weekends. Midweek in spring, you might get lucky with a few days' notice, but don't count on it.

The Logistics:

Departure: Martin's Haven, Marloes (SA62 3BJ)
Cost: £15 landing fee + £12 boat fare (adults), cash or card
Times: First boat 10 AM, then hourly depending on demand
Crossing: 15-20 minutes of potential seasickness

Arrive 30 minutes early. The walk from car park to boat is 10 minutes down a steep lane. If you're prone to motion sickness, take tablets before you leave the car.

On the Island (10:30 AM – 4:00 PM)

Skomer by Numbers:

730 acres
~6,000 breeding puffin pairs
350,000+ Manx shearwater pairs (the world's largest colony)
Zero shops, cafés, or shelters beyond a basic toilet block

The Puffins: They arrive mid-April and immediately start looking ridiculous. By May, they're in full breeding plumage—those technicolor beaks, the orange legs, the awkward waddle. Skomer's puffins are remarkably tame. Sit quietly on the cliff path at The Wick and they'll walk within meters, sometimes closer.

Photography Reality: You don't need a massive lens. A 70-200mm is plenty; I've shot perfectly good puffin portraits on a 24-70mm because they came so close. What you need is patience and a willingness to sit still.

The Walking Route: The marked circuit is 3 miles and takes most people 3-4 hours with stops. It's not strenuous, but it's uneven—rabbit burrows, rocky sections, slopes. Sturdy boots, not trainers.

Key Stops:

The Wick: The famous puffin spot. Gets busy by midday; go early or late.
The Neck: Narrow isthmus, puffin burrows on both sides, fewer people.
North Haven: Good for seabirds flying in with fish.
The Old Farm: Picnic tables, some shelter, the only real gathering point.

What Else Lives Here:

Manx shearwaters: You'll see them at dusk if you stay nearby, not during the day.
Razorbills and guillemots: On the cliffs in thousands.
Short-eared owls: Hunt over the island during daylight—I've seen three in one visit.
Seals: In the water around the island, occasionally hauled out.

What to Bring:

Packed lunch and plenty of water (no food for sale)
Binoculars (essential)
Camera
Warm layers (windy, even in sun)
Sun protection (zero shade)
Cash for the boat (sometimes card readers fail)

What Not to Do:

Don't stray off paths. The burrows collapse easily, killing the birds inside.
Don't bring dogs. They're not allowed, full stop.
Don't underestimate the weather. I've seen people in shorts shivering by noon.

Seabird Cities and Seal Colonies

Ramsey Island: The Alternative to Landing

Ramsey Island is an RSPB reserve, and landing requires advance booking that's increasingly hard to get. The alternative—a RIB safari from St Justinians—is, honestly, more fun.

Thousand Islands Expeditions (01437 721721, thousandislands.co.uk) runs 2-hour trips for £45. You blast out through Ramsey Sound in a rigid inflatable boat, hitting speeds that count as thrilling, then slow down to watch wildlife.

What You See:

The Bitches: A notorious tidal race between Ramsey and the mainland. The water boils and churns.
Seabird cliffs: Thousands of guillemots, razorbills, and kittiwakes. The noise and smell are intense.
Seals: Ramsey has one of the largest grey seal breeding colonies in southern Britain.
Porpoises and dolphins: Regularly spotted in the sound. I've seen common dolphins on two of three trips.

The Reality: You will get wet. Not soaked, but splashed. They provide waterproofs and life jackets. If you have back problems or are pregnant, this isn't for you—the ride is bumpy.

The Preseli Hills: Where Stonehenge Began

On your final day, head inland to the Preseli Hills, the source of Stonehenge's bluestones. Pentre Ifan (SA41 3TZ, free, small layby parking) is Wales' largest and best-preserved Neolithic dolmen—essentially a massive stone doorway to a burial chamber that lost its earth mound millennia ago.

The Monument: A 16-tonne capstone balanced on three uprights, pointing toward the Nevern Valley. Built around 3,500 BC, it's older than Stonehenge.

The Atmosphere: Visit early, and you might be alone. There's something genuinely moving about standing beside stones that have been here for five millennia.

Foel Eryr: The Highest Point

From Bwlch Gwynt car park (free, between Crymych and Crosswell on B4329), walk to the summit of Foel Eryr (468m). The route is 3 miles round trip, taking 2 hours.

What You'll See:

Bluestone outcrops: The spotted dolerite that was carted 180 miles to Wiltshire.
Wild ponies: Herds of Welsh mountain ponies graze the hills.
Views: On clear days, Snowdonia to the north, the Pembrokeshire coast to the south.
Carn Menyn: The specific quarry where the Stonehenge stones came from.

Spring Specifics: The moorland is patchwork with heather, gorse, and bilberry. Red kites and buzzards circle overhead. Lambs everywhere. It's properly wild—no cafes, no gift shops, just landscape.

The Towns: Character, Not Convenience

St Davids: The Smallest City with the Biggest Personality

St Davids has city status because of its cathedral, not its size. Population: under 2,000. It's essentially a village with delusions of grandeur, which makes it oddly charming.

St Davids Cathedral (SA62 6RD, free entry, donations welcome, 9 AM–5 PM):

The nave ceiling is Irish oak, installed in the 16th century.
The choir stalls have medieval misericords—carved ledges for monks to lean on during long services.
The treasury (£5) contains religious artifacts and illuminated manuscripts.
The tower climb (£4, 133 steps) gives panoramic views.

Free guided tours run at 11 AM and 2 PM.

Bishop's Palace (adjacent, £6.50 adults, Cadw property): The ruins are impressive—13th and 14th-century stonework, elaborate carvings.

Oriel y Parc (free, 10 AM–4 PM) is a National Park visitor center with a decent gallery of Pembrokeshire-inspired art.

Tenby: The Tourist Town That Earns Its Crowds

Tenby is the postcard-perfect town—medieval walls, colorful Georgian houses, three beaches. It's also the most touristy, which means in August it's unbearable. In spring, though, it's lovely.

The Walls: Walk the surviving medieval walls for views over the harbor and beaches. The Five Arches gate is the most impressive section.

Tudor Merchant's House (Quay Hill, £7.50 adults, National Trust, 11 AM–4 PM Fri-Tue): A remarkably intact medieval townhouse. The furnished rooms show Tudor life convincingly.

The Beaches:

North Beach: Sheltered, sandy, good for swimming.
Castle Beach: Largest, views of St Catherine's Island.
Harbour Beach: Small but picturesque.

St Catherine's Island: Tidal access. The Victorian fort on top occasionally opens for tours—check locally.

Caldey Island: The Monks' Retreat

Caldey Island is home to a community of Cistercian monks who've been there, in various forms, for 1,500 years.

The Boats:

Departure: Tenby Harbour
Cost: £14 return (adults)
Times: 10 AM–3 PM departures, returns 11 AM–4 PM
Season: Easter to October only
Phone: 01834 844453 or caldey-island.co.uk

What to See:

Caldey Abbey: Modern church with an Italianate tower. Services are open to visitors; dress modestly.
St Illtud's Church: Tiny medieval church with a 6th-century Celtic cross.
The monastery shop: Monks make chocolate, perfume, and shortbread.
The post office: The most westerly in Wales.

The Island Walk: A 2-mile circular path takes 1.5 hours. It passes Redberry Bay (secluded cove), Priory Bay (main beach, swimmable), and through woodland where red squirrels live.

Important:

No dogs allowed.
Bring cash—the shop doesn't take cards.
The island is closed on Sundays.

Where to Eat: From Harbor Pubs to Michelin Recognition

The Lobster Pot (Marloes)

01646 636474 | thelobsterpotmarloes.co.uk | Mains £20-32

A 10-minute drive from Marloes. This is not a fancy restaurant pretending to be rustic; it's a genuinely unpretentious place that happens to serve some of the best seafood in Wales. The menu depends entirely on the morning's catch. If they have lobster, order it. If they have crab, order it. Booking absolutely essential—they're small and popular.

Cwtch (St Davids)

01437 720871 | Mains £18-26

The best restaurant in St Davids. Not the most expensive, not the fanciest, just consistently excellent. The menu is contemporary Welsh, the seafood is local, and the atmosphere is relaxed. Booking strongly recommended.

Coast (Tenby)

01834 842227 | coasttenby.co.uk | Mains £26-34, tasting menu £65

Holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Serves genuinely creative food based on local seafood. The tasting menu with wine pairing is the full experience.

The Stackpole Inn (Stackpole)

01646 672324 | stackpoleinn.co.uk | Mains £18-28

A genuinely good gastro-pub. The Pembrokeshire crab is usually excellent, and they stock serious Welsh craft beer.

The Farmers Arms (St Davids)

01437 720508 | Goat Street | Mains £13-19

A proper pub. No gastro-pretensions, just solid Welsh food, local ales (try the Cwrw if it's on), and a beer garden for sunny days.

Llys Meddyg (Newport)

01239 820008 | llysmeddyg.com | Mains £22-32

My favorite restaurant in Pembrokeshire. Modern Welsh food with serious attention to foraged ingredients. The Preseli lamb is exceptional.

The Sloop Inn (Tenby)

01834 842411 | thesloop.co.uk | Mains £14-20

Tenby's most famous pub, dating from the 18th century. The harborside location is the draw—watch fishing boats unload while you eat.

Where to Sleep

Budget:

YHA Manorbier: £15-30/night. Near the coast path, basic but clean.
Camping: Numerous farm campsites. Try Pencarnan Farm near St Davids (£12-18/night).

Mid-Range:

The Stackpole Inn: £130-180/night, B&B. Comfortable rooms above the pub.
Runwayskiln Farm Cottages: £120-200/night. Converted farm buildings near Marloes.
The Park Hotel (Tenby): £140-220/night. Victorian hotel with views over North Beach.

Luxury:

Twr y Felin Hotel (St Davids): £180-280/night. Contemporary art hotel in a converted windmill.

What to Skip

Skip the summer crowds. July and August transform Pembrokeshire from a wild coastline into a traffic jam. If you must visit in summer, stick to weekdays and start every day before 8 AM.

Skip Broad Haven South on sunny weekends. It's beautiful but accessible, which means it fills with families and ice cream vans. Walk the extra 20 minutes to Barafundle instead.

Skip trying to "do" Skomer without booking. The boats sell out. The landing limit is strict. I've watched people drive four hours only to be turned away at the jetty.

Skip the Preseli Hills without proper boots. The moorland is boggy, the rocks are slippery, and mobile signal is non-existent. I've seen people in trainers sink to their ankles and have to retreat.

Skip the seal selfies. If you encounter seals on beaches, keep your distance. They bite, they stress easily, and they're wild animals, not Instagram props.

Skip eating at chain pubs. Pembrokeshire has some of the best seafood in Britain. Don't waste a meal on Wetherspoons or Premier Inn curry.

Practicalities: The Boring but Essential Stuff

Weather and Packing

Spring Reality:

March: 8-12°C, unpredictable
April: 10-14°C, improving
May: 13-17°C, often lovely

Pack:

Waterproof jacket (non-negotiable)
Warm fleece
Walking boots (ankle support essential—coast path is rocky)
Trainers (for beach)
Sun hat and sun cream
Warm hat and gloves (for boat trips and wind)
Binoculars (essential for wildlife)
Cash (many car parks and island facilities are cash-only)

Safety

Emergency: 999 or 112. Coastguard: 999, ask for Coastguard.

Coastal Specifics:

Check tides before beach walks. Some areas cut off completely.
Never turn your back on the sea. Waves are unpredictable.
Stay on marked paths near cliffs.
Mobile signal is patchy. Tell someone your route.

Wildlife Etiquette:

Stay on paths on Skomer. Burrows collapse.
Keep dogs on leads near wildlife.
Don't approach seals closely. They bite.
Take all litter home.

Costs Summary

Daily Budget (per person, excluding accommodation):

Frugal: £40-60 (self-catering, one pub meal, free activities)
Moderate: £70-100 (café lunches, restaurant dinner, paid attractions)
Comfortable: £120-150 (good restaurants, boat trips)

Accommodation:

Budget (YHA, camping): £15-30/night
Mid-range (B&Bs, pubs): £100-180/night
Luxury (hotels): £200+/night

About the Author

Marcus Chen has spent the last decade chasing wildlife across six continents, but keeps returning to the British coastline. He's watched shearwaters return to Skomer at dusk, tracked otters in Scottish lochs, and once spent three days in a hide waiting for a pine marten that never showed up. He writes about the places where wild animals and stubborn humans coexist.

Final Thoughts

Pembrokeshire rewards effort. The best beaches require walks. The best wildlife requires early starts and patience. The best experiences—sitting alone on a cliff watching shearwaters return at dusk, sharing a beach with seals, hearing nothing but wind and waves—come from accepting that this place isn't trying to entertain you. It's just here, as it has been for millennia.

I've been three times, and I'm already planning a fourth. There's still a beach I haven't reached, a cove I haven't explored, a dawn walk I haven't taken. That's the thing about this coastline—it doesn't reveal itself all at once. It makes you work for it. And the work is worth every blister, every early morning, every rain-drenched hour.

See you on the coast path.