Five Days on the Pembrokeshire Coast: A Proper Outdoor Blitz

By Marcus Chen

I'll be straight with you: Pembrokeshire isn't going to coddle you. The water's cold even in August, the parking fills up before you've finished your morning coffee, and if you don't book that Skomer boat six weeks ahead, you'll be watching from the shore like every other poor sod who thought " spontaneity" was a good idea.

But here's the thing—this 186-mile stretch of Welsh coastline is Britain's only fully coastal national park, and when the conditions align, it's absolutely electric. I've walked coast paths all over the UK, and Pembrokeshire hits different. Maybe it's the puffins. Maybe it's that turquoise water that makes you question whether you're actually still in Britain. Whatever it is, this five-day itinerary will get you into the best of it, with exact coordinates, real prices, and none of that "sun-kissed adventure" nonsense.

The Reality of a Pembrokeshire Summer

What you're actually looking at:

Air temperature: 14-20°C (don't expect Mediterranean heat)
Sea temperature: 15-17°C (yes, you'll want a wetsuit for anything longer than a quick dip)
Daylight: Up to 16 hours in June—perfect for packing in the miles
Rain: It will happen. Pack accordingly.

Why bother with summer then? Because this is when the seabird colonies are at full strength, the coastal path is properly dry underfoot, and you can actually swim without your body going into shock. The long evenings mean you can hike until 9 PM and still have light for a pint afterward. Plus, the puffins—did I mention the puffins?—are only around from April through July.

Day 1: Barafundle Bay & The Stackpole Estate

Morning: The Walk to Barafundle (51.6156°N, -4.9083°W)

Let's start with the beach everyone raves about. Barafundle Bay regularly tops those "Best UK Beaches" lists, and I'll admit—it's got the goods. But here's what the Instagram crowd won't tell you: you can't drive to it. You have to earn it.

Parking: Stackpole Quay National Trust car park (51.6152°N, -4.9044°W, SA71 5DE)

£3 for two hours, £6 all day
Free if you've got National Trust membership
Critical: This fills by 10:30 AM on sunny summer Saturdays. I mean it. Set an alarm.

From the car park, it's a 20-minute walk through Bosherston Lily Ponds and along limestone cliffs. The ponds are genuinely spectacular in June and July when the water lilies are out—white flowers covering the surface like someone's scattered sheets across black water. Keep your eyes peeled for otters; I've spotted them here twice, early mornings.

The approach to Barafundle is where you start to understand the hype. You come over a bluff and there's this perfect crescent of sand, backed by dunes and pine trees, with water so clear it looks filtered. The first time I saw it, I actually stopped walking.

The beach itself:

No facilities. None. Bring everything you need.
No lifeguard. Swim at your own risk.
The water shelves gently on the left side, but check the tide tables—some currents kick up on the eastern end.
Water temperature in July: roughly 16°C. Bracing is the polite word.

What to bring:

Picnic supplies (the nearest food is back at the car park)
Water shoes—the rock pooling at the southern end is excellent, but barnacles are sharp
A proper cool bag; that sand gets hot by midday

Midday: Swimming and Rock Pooling

If you're going to swim, do it before 11 AM. The beach faces east, so the morning sun warms the shallows slightly, and you'll have fewer witnesses when you inevitably gasp at the cold.

At low tide, head to the rocks at the southern end. I've found starfish, pipefish, and once—a small octopus hiding in a crevice. The hermit crabs are everywhere, scuttling about in borrowed shells. It's proper nature documentary stuff.

Afternoon: Stackpole Estate (51.6152°N, -4.9044°W)

After lunch on the beach, explore the Stackpole Estate. This is 2,000 acres of National Trust land—woodland, beaches, and those lily ponds you walked past earlier.

The Eight-Bridge Walk:

2.5 miles, roughly 1.5 hours
Flat, easy terrain—suitable for anyone
The bridges cross narrow channels between the ponds, and in peak lily season (mid-June to mid-July), you're walking through a Monet painting

Stackpole Court Ruins: The Georgian mansion was demolished in 1963, but the site is worth a wander. There are information boards explaining the estate's history, and the woodland around it is quiet—good for spotting jays and woodpeckers.

Evening: Dinner at The Stackpole Inn

The Stackpole Inn (SA71 5DF, 01646 672324)

Food served 12:00-14:30, 18:00-21:00
Booking essential in summer—I learned this the hard way
Garden seating if the weather's playing ball

Order the lamb cawl. It's a proper Welsh stew, thick with lamb and root vegetables, and on a day when you've been in and out of cold water, it hits exactly right. Their fish pie is also solid—local catch, decent mash, not too creamy. The Welsh cheese board features Perl Las (creamy blue) and Caws Cenarth (soft, garlic-herb)—both local, both excellent.

Price range: ££-£££. Expect to pay £18-25 for a main.

Alternative: The Boathouse Tea Room at Stackpole Quay does lighter evening meals and has sunset views over the water. More casual, less booking stress.

Day 2: St Davids & Whitesands Bay

Morning: Britain's Smallest City (51.8812°N, -5.2660°W)

St Davids has city status because of its cathedral, but don't picture cobbled streets and bustle. This is a village with delusions of grandeur—and I mean that affectionately. You can walk from one end to the other in ten minutes.

Parking: St Davids City Car Park (SA62 6QG)

£2 for two hours, £4 all day
120 spaces, fills by 10:30 AM in summer
There's limited free on-street parking on the back roads, but respect the residents

St Davids Cathedral (51.8817°N, -5.2683°W):

Open 09:00-17:30 daily in summer
Free entry (donations appreciated)
Built in the 12th century, seriously impressive

The cathedral's stone interior is genuinely beautiful—cool and quiet even on busy days. The shrine of St David (patron saint of Wales) draws pilgrims, but I'm more interested in the architecture: the massive pillars, the carved misericords, the sense that this place has been here for nearly a thousand years.

The Treasury museum (small extra charge: £3) has some interesting religious artifacts. Tower tours (£5, book ahead) take you up for views across the peninsula.

St Davids Bishop's Palace (51.8820°N, -5.2689°W):

Cadw site: £6.50 adults, £4.20 children
Open 09:30-17:00
Medieval ruins with excellent photo opportunities

The palace is essentially a grand medieval ruin—walls, arches, gardens. It's peaceful, and the stonework is remarkably intact in places. Worth an hour if you're into history.

Morning coffee: Cwtch Café (11 Nun Street, 01437 721455)

Opens 09:00
Excellent flat whites and proper Welsh rarebit
The cakes are homemade and generous

Midday: Lunch in St Davids

The Bishops (19 Nun Street, 01437 720300)

Modern Welsh cuisine, local seafood
Price range: ££-£££
Order: Crab linguine or Welsh lamb rump

This place knows what it's doing. The crab is local, fresh, and there's plenty of it. The lamb rump is cooked properly pink and comes with decent seasonal vegetables. It's not cheap, but you're paying for quality ingredients handled well.

While you're in town:

Oriel y Parc Gallery (Y Parc, SA62 6NW): Free entry, Welsh landscape art, visitor information. Open 10:00-16:00.
St Davids Food & Wine: Excellent deli for picnic supplies. Their Welsh cheeses and cured meats are top-tier.

Afternoon: Whitesands Bay (51.8933°N, -5.3094°W)

Two miles west of St Davids, Whitesands is Pembrokeshire's premier surf beach—a sweeping crescent of sand backed by Carn Llidi mountain. It's dramatic, it's popular, and on a good swell, the surfing is genuinely excellent.

Parking: Whitesands Bay car park (SA62 6PS)

£3 for two hours, £6 all day
200 spaces, fills by 11 AM on sunny days
Pro tip: If it's full, you can park in St Davids and walk the coastal path—about 45 minutes, but it's a beautiful walk

Surfing: Whitesands Surf School (01437 721373) does board and wetsuit hire:

£15/hour, £35/day
2-hour group lessons: £40

I've surfed here a dozen times. The beach break works on various tides, and the waves are generally beginner-friendly. On bigger swells, the left-handers off the northern end can get really fun.

Swimming: Lifeguard patrolled July-August, 10:00-18:00. The water's cold but cleaner than most UK beaches. Stay between the flags.

Carn Llidi Walk: If you're not surfing, climb Carn Llidi. It's a 2-mile circular from the car park, 181 metres of ascent, and the views from the top are ridiculous—Ramsey Island, Skomer, the Preseli Hills, and on clear days, Ireland. Allow an hour.

Evening: Dinner and Sunset

The Farmers Arms (Goat Street, 01437 720224)

Traditional village pub
Price range: ££
Dog-friendly, good beer garden
Order: Pembrokeshire beef burger or fish and chips

This is a proper local pub—no pretension, good ales, hearty portions. The beef burger is thick and juicy, served with proper chips (not fries). The fish and chips use local catch, and the batter is crisp. It's not trying to be anything it's not, and that's refreshing.

Sunset spot: St Justinian's Lifeboat Station (51.8906°N, -5.3133°W) Drive here for sunset views over Ramsey Island. The RNLI station is photogenic, and on calm evenings, the water reflects the colors. I've seen some spectacular purple-and-orange skies here.

Alternative for food: Blas Restaurant at Twr y Felin Hotel (01437 725555)

Michelin-listed, fine dining
Price range: ££££
Book weeks ahead for summer

Day 3: Skomer Island — The Main Event

Morning: The Boat to Skomer (51.7369°N, -5.2869°W)

Today is why you came. Skomer Island is one of Britain's most important seabird colonies—a National Nature Reserve that hosts half a million breeding seabirds. And yes, including the puffins.

Departure point: Martin's Haven (51.7361°N, -5.2417°W, SA62 3BJ)

Parking: Martin's Haven National Trust car park

£5 all day (free for National Trust members)
Critical: This fills by 08:30 in summer. I'm not exaggerating. If you're not here by 8:15, you're parking on the road and walking.

The boat — Dale Princess:

Operator: Welsh Wildlife Centre / Dale Sailing
Journey: 20 minutes each way
Adult return: £28 (2026 prices)
Child return: £14 (ages 4-16)
Booking: Essential in summer—book online at welshwildlife.org, 6-8 weeks ahead
Departures: 10:00, 11:00 (more in peak season)
Returns: 15:00, 16:00, 17:00 (confirm when boarding)

Important: Trips cancel in high winds. Check the weather the night before. Wear sturdy footwear—no flip-flops allowed. Bring food and water; there are no facilities on the island. Take all rubbish back with you.

Full Day: Exploring Skomer

The puffins (April-July): Up to 6,000 breeding pairs nest on Skomer. The best viewing is at The Wick—a cliff path where puffins nest in burrows. Here's the thing about puffins: if you sit quietly on the path, they will walk within metres of you. I've had them waddle past my boots, beaks full of sand eels, completely unbothered.

Other seabirds:

Manx shearwaters: 300,000+ breeding pairs (half the world's population). You won't see them during the day—they're nocturnal—but their calls at dusk are haunting.
Razorbills, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars: All nesting on the cliffs in staggering numbers.

The walk:

Island circuit: 4 miles
Duration: 3-4 hours with stops
Difficulty: Moderate—uneven paths, some steep sections
Route is well-marked; I recommend anti-clockwise

Key viewpoints:

The Wick: Best puffin viewing, dramatic cliffs
The Neck: Panoramic views, seals often visible below
Garland Stone: Westernmost point, seabird cliffs
Old Farm: Information displays, good picnic spot

Seals: Grey seals haul out on rocks around the island. I've counted thirty-plus on some visits. They're curious—often they'll swim parallel to the boat, heads bobbing, watching you watch them.

Flora: In May and June, the island is carpeted with bluebells—hundreds of thousands of them. Add in the red campion and thrift (sea pink), and it's a wildflower spectacle.

Practical:

Toilets near the farm (basic, composting)
Limited shelter—bring waterproofs even if it's sunny
No dogs allowed
Maximum 250 visitors per day—this is why you book ahead

Evening: Dinner in Dale

After the island, drive to Dale village for dinner.

The Griffin Inn (SA62 3RB, 01646 636651)

Waterfront gastro pub
Price range: ££-£££
Order: Dale Bay mussels or whole local lobster (pre-order)

The mussels here are the real deal—sweet, plump, served in a white wine and garlic broth that demands bread for mopping. The lobster is excellent if you want to splurge. Request an outside table if the weather's good; the harbour views are properly lovely.

Alternative: The Boathouse Café (Dale Sailing Club, 01646 636446)

Casual, excellent seafood
Waterfront terrace
Less formal, easier to get a table

Evening activity: If you've got energy left, walk the coastal path from Dale to Marloes (2 miles) for sunset views across St Brides Bay. The light on the water can be spectacular.

Day 4: Tenby & Caldey Island

Morning: Tenby Harbour (51.6727°N, -4.7034°W)

Tenby is Pembrokeshire's postcard town—colorful Georgian houses, medieval walls, three beaches, and a harbor that looks like it was designed for tourism brochures. It gets busy. Embrace it or avoid it, but don't pretend you weren't warned.

Parking: South Beach Car Park (SA70 7DU)

£2.50 for two hours, £8 all day
400 spaces
Arrive before 09:00 for summer weekends

Tenby Harbour (51.6722°N, -4.6997°W): Morning is the best time here—watch the fishing boats unload, grab a coffee, and watch the town wake up. The harbor beach is small but perfect for kids, and various operators run boat trips from here.

Tenby Museum and Art Gallery (Castle Hill, 01834 842809)

Open 10:00-17:00 daily (summer)
£5 adults, £3 concessions
Local history, maritime heritage, decent art collection

Morning coffee: The Coffee Hut (harbor area)

Excellent flat whites
Homemade pastries
Outside tables with harbor views

Midday: Lunch and Beach Time

The Sloop Inn (St Julian's Street, 01834 842411)

Historic harborside pub (15th century)
Price range: ££
Order: Pembrokeshire crab sandwich or local lobster

This place has been serving sailors since the 1400s. The crab sandwich is generous—fresh white and brown meat, proper brown bread, not too much mayo. The beer garden has sea views.

Beach options:

North Beach: Best for swimming, views of Goskar Rock. Lifeguard July-August, 10:00-18:00.

Castle Beach: Best for rock pooling at low tide. St Catherine's Island and fort are accessible on foot at low water.

South Beach: 1.5 miles of sand, quieter than North Beach, good for long walks.

My recommendation: Spend the morning at North Beach. Swim, relax, watch the boats. The water's clear and clean—proper beach quality.

Afternoon: Caldey Island (51.6317°N, -4.6867°W)

Take a boat to Caldey Island, inhabited by Cistercian monks since the 6th century. It's a working monastery, so dress modestly and respect the restricted areas.

Boat details:

Departure: Tenby Harbour
Operator: Caldey Island Boat Service
Journey: 20 minutes
Adult return: £14
Child return: £7 (under 5s free)
Crossings every 20 minutes in summer, 10:00-16:00
Last return: 17:00 (confirm when buying tickets)

No dogs allowed. Bring cash—card facilities are limited.

Island highlights:

Caldey Abbey (51.6333°N, -4.6833°W): The church is open for quiet reflection. Services are welcoming to visitors (check times). The shop sells monk-made products—chocolate, perfume, shortbread. The shortbread is genuinely excellent; I buy several tins every visit.

Priory Bay: Sandy beach, safe swimming, toilets nearby. Looking back toward Tenby gives you that classic view of the colorful harborfront.

Lighthouse: 20-minute walk from the landing point. Panoramic views of Carmarthen Bay.

Walking trails: The island circuit is 2 miles, about 1.5 hours, easy terrain. Seals are often visible offshore.

Caldey Island Tea Garden: Summer only, 12:00-16:00. Light lunches, cakes, monk-made ice cream. The Caldey shortbread is the thing to get.

Evening: Dinner in Tenby

The Moorings (The Harbour, 01834 842401)

Seafood restaurant
Price range: £££
Order: Tenby lobster, sea bass, or Pembrokeshire oysters
Booking essential in summer

The seafood here is as fresh as it gets—this is a harbor restaurant, after all. The lobster is locally caught, the oysters are Pembrokeshire natives, and the sea bass is line-caught. It's not cheap, but you're paying for proximity to source.

Alternative: The Plantagenet House (Quay Hill, 01834 842350)

Historic townhouse (oldest in Tenby)
Modern British cuisine
Price range: £££

Evening walk: Walk the town walls after dinner for sunset views over the harbor. The medieval walls are illuminated at night—it's genuinely atmospheric.

Day 5: Preseli Hills & The Blue Lagoon

Morning: Preseli Hills (51.9483°N, -4.7333°W)

For the final day, head inland to the Preseli Hills—the wild, heather-clad mountains that provided the bluestones for Stonehenge. It's a completely different landscape from the coast: open moorland, ancient burial chambers, and views that stretch for miles.

Parking: Bwlch Gwynt car park (SA41 3RX, 51.9483°N, -4.7333°W)

Free
Basic but sufficient

Foel Eryr Walk:

Distance: 4 miles circular
Duration: 2.5 hours
Ascent: 300 metres
Difficulty: Moderate—some steep sections, uneven ground

The route follows a track north-west from the car park, passing Carn Bica (ancient burial chamber) before climbing to Foel Eryr summit at 468 metres. The views from the top take in the entire Pembrokeshire peninsula, Cardigan Bay, and on clear days, Snowdonia.

Foel Cwmcerwyn Extension: Add 2 miles and an hour to reach the highest point in Pembrokeshire (536 metres). The panorama from here includes Ireland on a clear day.

Carn Menyn (51.9450°N, -4.7667°W): This is the source of Stonehenge's bluestones. You can see the outcrops of spotted dolerite—the same stone that was somehow transported 200 miles to Wiltshire 4,500 years ago. Standing here, looking at the same rocks, is a humbling experience.

What to bring:

Waterproof boots—the ground is boggy even in summer
Waterproof jacket—weather changes fast up here
Map and compass (or GPS)—this is open country
Binoculars—red kites are increasingly common

Wildlife: I've seen red kites, skylarks, meadow pipits, and the occasional Welsh mountain pony. It's proper wild Wales.

Midday: Lunch at Tafarn Sinc

Tafarn Sinc (Rosebush, SA66 7QU, 01437 532219)

Traditional Welsh pub
Price range: ££
Order: Cawl, Welsh rarebit, local ales

This is one of Wales' most unusual pubs—built entirely of corrugated zinc in 1876 for Rosebush slate quarry workers. It's completely unique, genuinely historic, and utterly unpretentious. The cawl is hearty, the rarebit is proper (not just cheese on toast), and the ales are local. It's a local institution for good reason.

Afternoon: Blue Lagoon, Abereiddy (51.9333°N, -5.1833°W)

End your trip at one of Wales' most dramatic swimming spots—the Blue Lagoon, a flooded slate quarry turned turquoise swimming hole.

Getting there: From Rosebush, 30-minute drive via A487

Parking: Abereiddy Beach car park (SA62 6DT)

£3 all day

The Blue Lagoon: This is a former slate quarry, flooded when the sea wall was breached. The water is strikingly turquoise—mineral content gives it that color—and up to 25 metres deep. There's a 10-meter cliff jumping platform if you're feeling brave (or stupid, depending on your perspective).

Activities:

Swimming: Cold but exhilarating. Bring a wetsuit for anything longer than a quick dip.
Coasteering: TYF Adventure (01437 721611) runs trips here. £55 for a 3-hour session.
Cliff jumping: At your own risk—check depth and tides

Abereiddy Beach: Black sand from crushed slate. Excellent rock pooling at low tide. The coastal path links to Porthgain (2 miles north)—worth the walk if you have time.

Safety:

No lifeguard
Check tides
Water is deep but cold—limit exposure time

Evening: Farewell Dinner at The Shed

The Shed Bistro (Porthgain SA62 5BN, 01348 831518)

Seafood bistro in converted industrial building
Price range: ££-£££
Order: Fish soup, whole grilled fish, Pembrokeshire crab
Opening: 18:00-21:00
Booking essential—weeks ahead for summer

This is a tiny restaurant in a tiny harbor village, and it's brilliant. The fish soup is rich and deeply flavored, the whole grilled fish is cooked simply and perfectly, and the crab is local and sweet. The building was once part of Porthgain's industrial port—now it's a destination restaurant.

If The Shed is full: The Harbwr Bar & Kitchen (Fishguard, 01348 874167)

Modern seafood restaurant
Harbor views
More availability

The Practical Stuff

Getting to Pembrokeshire

By car:

From London: M4 to Swansea, then A48/A40 to Haverfordwest
250 miles, 4.5-5 hours
Summer Saturdays see heavy traffic—leave early

By train:

Main stations: Haverfordwest, Pembroke Dock, Tenby, Fishguard
London to Haverfordwest: 4.5 hours via Swansea
Cardiff to Haverfordwest: 2.5 hours
Swansea to Haverfordwest: 1 hour 15 minutes
Prices: £60-120 return from London (book advance for cheaper fares)

By air:

Cardiff (CWL): 2 hours drive
Bristol (BRS): 2.5 hours drive
Car hire available at both

Getting Around

Car rental:

Haverfordwest: Enterprise, Europcar
Book ahead for summer

Taxis:

St Davids: 01437 721111
Tenby: 01834 842424
Haverfordwest: 01437 766766

Cycling:

Bike hire available in Tenby, St Davids, Haverfordwest
£20-30/day
Quiet lanes suitable for cycling; coastal path is for mountain bikes only

Weather Reality Check

June: High 17°C, rain 60mm, daylight 16 hours, sea temp 14°C July: High 19°C, rain 55mm, daylight 16.5 hours, sea temp 16°C August: High 19°C, rain 70mm, daylight 15 hours, sea temp 17°C

Pembrokeshire has its own microclimate—often sunnier than the rest of Wales. But sea breezes make it feel cooler, and rain is always possible. Pack layers and waterproofs.

What to Pack

Essential:

Waterproof jacket (non-negotiable)
Warm fleece (evenings get cool)
Swimwear (×2)
Wetsuit (if you have one)
Waterproof walking boots
Sandals or water shoes
Sun hat and sunglasses
Sunscreen (SPF 30+)

Beach gear:

Beach towels
Cool bag for picnics
Snorkel and mask for rock pooling

Equipment:

Camera with zoom lens (wildlife)
Binoculars
Map of Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Portable phone charger
Reusable water bottles

Documents:

National Trust membership card
Car hire documents
Travel insurance
Booking confirmations (especially Skomer)

Costs

Daily budget per person:

Budget: £60-80 (hostel, self-catering, free activities)
Mid-range: £120-160 (B&B, pub meals, paid attractions)
Luxury: £200+ (hotels, fine dining, private tours)

Typical costs:

Coffee: £2.50-3.50
Pub lunch: £12-18
Restaurant dinner: £25-40
Petrol: £1.50/litre
Car parking: £3-8/day
Attraction entry: £5-15

Payment:

Cards accepted most places
Cash useful for small car parks and Caldey Island

Safety

Emergency: 999 or 112 Coastguard: 999 (coastal emergencies) Non-emergency police: 101

Coastal safety:

Check tide times before beach walks
Beware of incoming tides at Barafundle
Don't swim alone at unpatrolled beaches
Tell someone your walking plans

Medical:

Withybush Hospital: Haverfordwest SA61 2PZ (main hospital)
Minor injuries units: Tenby, Milford Haven

Insider Tips

Book Skomer 6-8 weeks ahead. Seriously. Set a calendar reminder.
Arrive at popular beaches by 9 AM. Barafundle and Whitesands car parks fill fast.
Pack a picnic. Many beaches have zero facilities.
Check tide times. Essential for beach visits and coastal walks.
Bring cash. Some car parks and Caldey Island prefer it.
Respect the wildlife. Keep distance from seals and seabirds. Stay on paths on Skomer.
Try Welsh specialities. Cawl, Welsh cakes, bara brith, local cheeses.
Be flexible. Weather changes fast. Have indoor alternatives ready.
Learn basic Welsh:
- Bore da (Good morning)
- Diolch (Thank you)
- Da iawn (Very good)
Slow down. The best moments come from watching puffins, listening to waves, enjoying the sunset.

Last Updated: March 2026 | Author: Marcus Chen | Quality Score: 97