Five Days on the Isle of Wight: A Spring Escape That Actually Delivers
Here's the thing about the Isle of Wight that nobody tells you in the brochures: it's slightly absurd, completely charming, and in spring, you get to experience it without fighting through coach parties of people taking photos of everything with their iPads. The island sits there in the English Channel like a defiant chunk of Victorian seaside ambition, all white cliffs and bucket-and-spade nostalgia mixed with a peculiar local identity that people who've never been can't quite understand.
I've done this trip three times now, always in spring. March through May is when the island feels most like itself—locals are chatty because they're not yet exhausted by summer crowds, the coastal paths are yours for the taking, and you'll find actual parking spaces in places like Ventnor and Godshill that become complete nightmares by July.
The weather? It's England by the sea. Bring a waterproof. Trust me on this.
Why Bother with Spring?
The honest truth about the temperature: 8-16°C (46-61°F). Some days you'll be in a t-shirt. Others you'll question every life choice that brought you to a windswept clifftop. That's spring here.
But here's what makes it worth it:
The Rhododendrons at Osborne House don't care about your weather complaints. Late April through May, Queen Victoria's gardens go absolutely berserk with colour. We're talking magnolias the size of dinner plates, banks of camellias, and enough rhododendrons to make you wonder if someone spilled paint. The gardeners have spent 150 years perfecting this show. It runs whether you've packed appropriately or not.
The coastal paths are empty. Tennyson Down in July? Might as well walk down Oxford Street. Tennyson Down in April? You'll see maybe three other people, and they'll all say hello in that slightly surprised way walkers do when they encounter another human in a remote place.
The donkeys at Carisbrooke Castle work shorter hours in spring, which somehow makes seeing them operate the 16th-century treadwheel more special. There's something about watching a donkey walk in circles to draw water that reminds you how recently the modern world actually arrived.
The pubs haven't switched to their summer contempt mode yet. In August, the bar staff are exhausted and the prices have crept up. In spring, you'll get actual conversation. Ask about the local cider. Someone will have strong opinions.
Day 1: The Needles & The Real West Wight
Morning: Alum Bay and The Needles
Location: Alum Bay, Isle of Wight PO39 0JD. 50.6625°N, -1.5833°W
Right, let's address the elephant in the room: The Needles Landmark Attraction is deeply, unapologetically tacky. There's a sweet manufactory. There's a glass-blowing demonstration set up for maximum tourist throughput. There's a chairlift down to a beach that you can also reach by stairs (free) if you're not afraid of your own legs.
The chairlift: Adults £8 return, children £6. Opens 10:30 AM, weather dependent. I've seen it closed due to what I can only describe as "moderate enthusiasm" in the wind. Check before you make plans.
Here's my advice: embrace the tackiness. Get the multi-coloured sand souvenir if you must. But don't miss the actual point of being here—the three chalk stacks rising from the sea are genuinely spectacular, and the view from the top of the cliffs is one of those rare moments where you understand why Victorians got so worked up about "the sublime."
Parking: £6 all day at Alum Bay Car Park. Arrive before 10:30 AM or you'll be parking in a field and walking further than the chairlift would have carried you.
The Needles Lighthouse sits on the outermost stack, built in 1859, still operational. You can't visit it (it's automated now), but there's something appropriately English about a defiant tower of white stone keeping watch over a shipping lane that nearly killed off an entire navy.
Afternoon: Tennyson Down
The walk: 4 miles circular from the Needles car park. Moderate difficulty—you'll climb about 150 metres. Allow 2 to 2.5 hours with stops for staring at the view.
This is the walk that justifies your ferry ticket. Named after Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who lived nearby at Farringford House and apparently paced this ridge regularly when he wasn't being poet laureate. The monument at the top—a granite cross—is the island's favourite selfie spot, but in spring you won't have to queue for it.
The gorse will be in bloom. Yellow flowers, coconut scent, occasional attacks on your legs if you stray from the path. The wildflowers change week by week in spring—primroses early, then thrift, then spring squill creating patches of violet among the grass.
Keep your eyes up. Peregrine falcons nest in these cliffs. I've watched them stoop on pigeons with that terrifying efficiency that reminds you nature isn't actually sentimental.
The route: Head east along the ridge from the monument, drop down to Freshwater Bay (GPS: 50.6680°N, -1.5500°W), then follow the lane back toward the Needles road.
Freshwater Bay itself is a pebble beach with coloured cliffs and that particular smell of English seaside—seaweed, salt, and faintly disappointed tourists who expected sand. There's a café, toilets, and a car park that costs £3 for two hours. Worth a wander if your legs are still working.
Dimbola Lodge (50.6685°N, -1.5510°W) sits just above the bay. This was Julia Margaret Cameron's house—the photographer who convinced Darwin, Tennyson, and various other Victorians to sit still for long enough to create some of the most striking portraits of the era. It's now a museum with a decent café. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10 AM to 4 PM. Adults £6, concessions £5. The Victorian camera collection is properly nerdy. I mean that as a compliment.
Evening: Dinner in Bembridge (Yes, You Have to Drive)
The Crab & Lobster, 3 Foreland Road, Bembridge PO35 5XN. 50.6860°N, -1.0880°W. Phone: 01983 872244.
I'm sending you to the other side of the island for dinner. This is a 35-minute drive from Freshwater, and yes, it's worth it. The Crab & Lobster overlooks Bembridge Harbour, and they source their seafood from boats that you can watch unloading while you eat.
Mains run £18-28. The local crab is the thing to order—sweet, fresh, served with brown bread and a complete absence of pretension. If lobster's available (ask, it depends on the boats), it's around market price but properly prepared.
Book ahead. Even in spring, this place fills up. Dinner served 6 PM to 9 PM.
Budget alternative: The Pilot Boat Inn (01983 872077) on Bembridge Lane. Mains £13-20. Historic pub, low beams, open fire, traditional menu. Nothing wrong with it, but you'll remember the Crab & Lobster's crab.
Day 2: Osborne House & The Floating Bridge Experience
Morning: Queen Victoria's Seaside Palace
Osborne House, York Avenue, East Cowes PO32 6JX. 50.7506°N, -1.2206°W. Phone: 01983 200022.
First, the practicalities: Adults £19.50, children £11.70, family ticket £50.70. Open daily 10 AM to 5 PM in spring. Free parking. English Heritage members get in free, and if you're visiting more than one English Heritage property on this trip, membership pays for itself.
Now, the reality: this place is utterly bonkers in the best possible way. Prince Albert designed it essentially as a giant family holiday home, and Queen Victoria spent so much time here after his death that the government eventually had to basically order her back to London to do her job.
The house itself takes 2-3 hours if you're doing it properly. The state rooms are spectacularly over-the-top—Albert's obsession with Italian Renaissance style resulted in rooms that look like a Florentine palace had a baby with a particularly ambitious railway hotel. The Durbar Room, added later, is where Victoria held court as Empress of India. It's completely insane. I mean that positively.
But come in spring for the gardens. This is when Osborne delivers its knockout punch. The formal gardens—magnolias, camellias, rhododendrons—are at their peak from late April through May. The walled kitchen garden is productive and beautiful. The grounds run to 342 acres, and in spring you can walk for an hour without seeing another person.
Don't miss the Swiss Cottage. It's a 15-minute walk from the main house, built as a playhouse for the royal children, complete with miniature furniture and gardens. The whole thing is simultaneously charming and slightly unsettling—Victorian parenting was different, let's say.
Queen Victoria's private beach was only opened to the public in 2012. There's a bathing machine (the wheeled changing room they used to preserve modesty) and a very humanising glimpse of a woman who spent most of her life as an institution.
Afternoon: The Floating Bridge and Cowes
The Floating Bridge (also known as the Chain Ferry) connects East Cowes to Cowes. It's free for pedestrians, £1.50 for cars, runs every 10-15 minutes, and takes five minutes to cross. Check operating times—reduced service in spring, and it stops entirely in very bad weather.
This is the world's oldest chain ferry still in regular service. It's also slightly terrifying if you're in a car, as the deck crew essentially eyeball the spacing and you end up inches from the vehicle in front. Embrace it. This is authentic Isle of Wight.
Cowes (50.7630°N, -1.2980°W) is the world-famous yachting town. In spring, it's pleasantly empty—the sailing season hasn't really kicked off yet, and you can walk the seafront without dodging regatta crowds. The shops are mostly nautical boutiques and sailing gear suppliers. There's a certain type of person who gets genuinely excited about marine hardware. You may become one of them.
Cowes Maritime Museum (Beckford Road, open Tuesday-Saturday 10 AM to 4 PM, free) covers local maritime history and America's Cup exhibits. Worth 45 minutes if you're interested in boats. Skip it if you're not.
Lunch: The Coast Bar & Dining at Cowes Yacht Haven (01983 296600). Mains £12-20, served noon to 3 PM. Modern British, harbour views, decent seafood. Nothing life-changing, but reliable.
Evening: Dinner at The Folly Inn
The Folly Inn, Folly Lane, Whippingham PO32 6NB. 50.7380°N, -1.2450°W. Phone: 01983 883525.
This is my favourite pub on the island, and I will hear no arguments. It's a historic riverside inn on the Medina, popular with Queen Victoria apparently, though I suspect she didn't have to book ahead.
Mains £14-22. Dinner served 6 PM to 9 PM. The local fish is excellent, the Sunday roast is proper (if you're here on a Sunday), and the riverside garden is one of those places where time genuinely seems to slow down.
Book ahead. Even in spring. Especially if you want a garden table.
Alternative: The Lifeboat, 31 High Street, East Cowes (01983 884400). Mains £12-18. Traditional pub, sea views, perfectly acceptable if The Folly is full.
Day 3: Ventnor, The Undercliff, and Britain's Strangest Garden
Morning: Ventnor Botanic Garden
Ventnor Botanic Garden, Undercliff Drive, Ventnor PO38 1UL. 50.5940°N, -1.2180°W. Phone: 01983 855397.
Adults £12, children £6, family £32. Open daily 10 AM to 5 PM. And this is the thing: the garden sits in a unique microclimate created by its position in a sheltered, south-facing bay. The result is that tender plants grow here outdoors that would be houseplants anywhere else in the UK.
I've seen bananas fruiting here. Actual bananas. In England.
In spring, the Australian Garden has banksias and wattles in bloom. The Mediterranean Garden is full of spring bulbs. The palm garden looks like someone dropped a corner of Tenerife into Hampshire by mistake. The New Zealand garden has tree ferns that predate most European civilisations.
Free guided tours run daily at 11 AM and 2 PM in spring, included in admission. Take one. The guides know their stuff and you'll learn why this particular patch of ground defies everything you thought you knew about British gardening.
The Plantation Room Café serves lunch (soups, sandwiches, around £7-12) with garden views. Decent enough, though I'd suggest planning for afternoon tea elsewhere.
Afternoon: The Coastal Path to Bonchurch
Ventnor itself is a Victorian seaside resort built into improbably steep cliffs. In spring, the cascade (a restored Victorian water feature on Undercliff Drive) is running, and the town has that slightly melancholic charm of seaside places before the season starts.
The walk to Bonchurch: 2 miles one way, moderate difficulty with some steep sections, about 1 to 1.5 hours. Follow the coastal path east from Ventnor seafront.
This is one of the island's most beautiful short walks. In spring, the cliffs are covered with wildflowers—wild garlic in the woods, gorse on the upper slopes, the occasional early orchid if you're lucky. The birdsong is intense. I'm not a serious birder, but even I can identify robins, blackbirds, and the inevitable seagulls.
Bonchurch (50.6000°N, -1.1950°W) is absurdly pretty. We're talking chocolate-box village with a pond, ducks, and an 11th-century church (St. Boniface) that's improbably small and atmospheric. There's an old ruined church in the woods above the village that feels like something from a gothic novel.
The Bonchurch Inn (50.6005°N, -1.1945°W, 01983 852347) serves afternoon tea from 2:30 PM to 5:00 PM for £12.95 per person. Homemade cakes, scones with proper clotted cream, and a garden that makes you consider giving up whatever you're doing and moving here.
Extension option: Keep walking another 2 miles to Shanklin. The Old Village has thatched cottages and tea gardens. Shanklin Chine (Victorian pleasure garden with waterfall, adults £6.50, children £4.50, open 10 AM to 5 PM) is worth it if you've never seen a "chine" before—basically a wooded ravine with a stream running through it.
Evening: Dinner at The Royal Hotel
The Royal Hotel, Belgrave Road, Ventnor PO38 1JJ. 50.5945°N, -1.2050°W. Phone: 01983 852186.
This is a proper Victorian hotel dating back to 1835, and the restaurant is the island's most reliable option for a slightly upscale dinner without the prices getting completely silly.
Mains £20-32. Dinner 6:30 PM to 9 PM. Local seafood is the strength—the crab, the lobster when available, the daily catch. They also do excellent Island lamb. There's usually a seasonal tasting menu if you want to commit to the full experience.
Book ahead, especially for weekends. This place fills up with people who've been coming here for decades and have strong feelings about their regular table.
Alternative: The Spyglass Inn on Castle Road (01983 855338). Mains £13-20. Seafood-focused, panoramic sea views, more relaxed atmosphere. Good if The Royal feels too formal.
Day 4: Castles, Donkeys, and Thatched Cottage England
Morning: Carisbrooke Castle
Carisbrooke Castle, Castle Hill, Newport PO30 1XY. 50.6870°N, -1.3130°W. Phone: 01983 522921.
Adults £13.50, children £8.10, family £35.10. Open daily 10 AM to 5 PM. English Heritage again—membership really does pay off here.
This is where King Charles I was imprisoned for fourteen months before they finally executed him. There's something deeply English about the fact that he tried to escape twice and failed both times because he got stuck in the window bars. You can see the window.
The keep offers panoramic views of the island from the top. The climb is steep and narrow—if you're claustrophobic or have knee issues, skip it. The views are good but not worth an anxiety attack.
The chapel has medieval wall paintings that survived the Reformation by being whitewashed over. Rediscovered in the 1890s, they show scenes from the life of Christ in that slightly amateurish medieval style that makes them feel more human than the polished Renaissance stuff.
But honestly? Come for the donkeys. The well house contains a 16th-century treadwheel that's still operated by donkeys for demonstrations. Shows run daily at 11 AM, 2 PM, and 4 PM in spring. The donkeys walk in circles, the wheel turns, and water gets drawn from the 49-metre-deep well. It's been happening here for centuries.
The current donkeys have names and distinct personalities. Ask the handler—they'll tell you who's reliable, who's lazy, and who only works for extra carrots.
Afternoon: Newport and Godshill
Newport (50.7010°N, -1.2930°W) is the island's capital and main town. It's functional rather than beautiful—this is where locals do their actual shopping. The quay area has some converted warehouses and the Quay Arts Centre if you need culture.
But you're driving to Godshill.
Godshill (50.6370°N, -1.2550°W) is the island's most photographed village, and for good reason. The thatched cottages are genuine, many dating back 400+ years. The village gardens are starting to bloom in spring. It's touristy, yes, but it's also authentically old in a way that most "chocolate box" villages aren't.
All Saints Church sits above the village on Church Hill (50.6360°N, -1.2560°W). The famous "Lily Cross"—a rare medieval wall painting of Christ on a lily—is inside. The churchyard has spectacular views across the island. It's a steep walk up from the village, but worth it.
Godshill Model Village (50.6365°N, -1.2545°W, adults £7.50, children £5.50, open 10 AM to 5 PM) is exactly what it sounds like: a 1/10th scale model of Godshill and Shanklin Old Village. I can't fully defend my enjoyment of this, but I stand by it. There's something deeply satisfying about seeing a miniature version of the place you're standing in.
Lunch at The Griffin Inn (50.6375°N, -1.2555°W, 01983 840253). Mains £12-18, served noon to 2:30 PM. Eighteenth-century inn with beams, fireplaces, and a garden for spring lunches. Local ales, homemade pies, Island cheeses. Proper pub food in a historic setting.
Evening: Dinner at The Taverners
The Taverners, High Street, Godshill PO38 3HZ. 50.6370°N, -1.2550°W. Phone: 01983 840707.
This is a gastropub that actually deserves the name. They source ingredients from Island producers—beef from Island herds, seafood from Island waters, vegetables from Island farms. The menu changes with what's available.
Mains £16-24. Dinner 6 PM to 9 PM. The Island-reared beef is excellent. The seafood is reliably fresh. They've won various awards that are displayed on the wall but never mentioned unless you ask.
Book ahead. This is the best food in Godshill, and locals know it.
Alternative: The Wheatsheaf Inn (01983 840304). Mains £12-18. More traditional pub food, garden, perfectly acceptable.
Day 5: The East Coast, Windmills, and a Proper Farewell
Morning: Ryde and the Eastern Shore
Ryde (50.7300°N, -1.1600°W) is where most visitors arrive, either by hovercraft from Southsea or catamaran from Portsmouth. It's the island's largest town, with a 2-mile stretch of sandy beach along the esplanade.
In spring, it's quiet. The beachfront cafés are open but not crowded. You can walk the length of the esplanade without navigating around ice cream queues.
Ryde Pier is the fourth longest in the UK at 681 metres. It's free to walk, open year-round, and offers genuinely spectacular views across the Solent to Portsmouth. The pier opened in 1814, making it one of the oldest in the country. The train that used to run down it stopped in the 1960s, but the structure remains—slightly decrepit, completely charming.
Quarr Abbey (50.7350°N, -1.1950°W, open daily 10 AM to 5 PM, free but donations welcome) is a working Benedictine monastery with beautiful grounds. The abbey gardens have spring bulbs and blossoms, and the tea shop serves homemade cakes and light lunches. The farm shop sells monk-produced cheese, honey, and various other products that will make excellent souvenirs.
The Isle of Wight Bus Museum (50.7290°N, -1.1620°W, open Sundays and Wednesdays noon to 4 PM, adults £5, children £3) is for transport enthusiasts. Vintage buses, memorabilia, people who can tell you the production history of every double-decker in the collection. I found it more interesting than I expected.
Afternoon: Seaview to Bembridge
Seaview (50.7180°N, -1.1100°W) is an elegant sailing village with quiet beaches. In spring, the sailing boats are returning to the water after winter storage, and there's a sense of the season beginning.
The walk to Bembridge: 3 miles one way, easy difficulty, 1.5 to 2 hours following the shoreline. This is one of the island's gentlest coastal walks—no serious climbs, just beaches, salt marshes, and wildlife.
Seagrove Bay is a quiet sandy beach with views across the Solent. Priory Bay is technically private (the coastal path runs along the top of the beach, so you can look down on it). Bembridge Harbour is a working harbour with fishing boats that actually fish.
Bembridge Windmill (50.6890°N, -1.0850°W, open Saturday-Sunday 11 AM to 4 PM in spring, adults £4, children £2) is the only surviving windmill on the island. Built around 1700, restored by the National Trust. You can climb to the top for views over the village and sea. It's small—allow 20 minutes unless you're a serious windmill enthusiast.
Bembridge Fort (50.6780°N, -1.0800°W, selected dates only, check website, adults £6, children £3) is a Victorian fort with guided tours. Built in the 1860s to defend against French invasion that never came. The Victorians were nothing if not prepared.
Afternoon tea at The Spinnaker (Bembridge Point, 01983 872749, 2:30 PM to 5:00 PM, £16.95 per person) is a proper traditional tea with sea views. Scones, sandwiches, cakes, the whole performance.
Evening: Farewell Dinner at The Seaview Hotel
The Seaview Hotel, High Street, Seaview PO34 5ES. 50.7185°N, -1.1095°W. Phone: 01983 612711.
This is where you end the trip. The restaurant is seafood-focused, the views across the Solent are panoramic, and the atmosphere strikes that perfect balance of being special without being stuffy.
Mains £20-30. Dinner 6 PM to 9 PM. The local crab is exceptional. The lobster, when available, is properly prepared. The daily catch depends on what the boats brought in.
Booking is essential for dinner. This place is well-known, well-regarded, and fills up.
Alternative: The Old Fort Pub on Culver Down Road (01983 874431). Mains £13-20. Pub food, views over Bembridge Harbour, large garden. Good if you can't get into The Seaview Hotel.
The Practical Stuff Nobody Tells You
Getting Here (and Back)
Wightlink Ferries:
- Portsmouth to Fishbourne (car ferry, 45 minutes): Car + 7 passengers £45-65 return, foot passenger £18-25 return
- Portsmouth to Ryde (FastCat, 22 minutes, foot passengers only): £20-30 return
- Lymington to Yarmouth (car ferry, 40 minutes): Car + 7 passengers £45-65 return, foot passenger £15-22 return
Red Funnel:
- Southampton to East Cowes (car ferry, 1 hour): Car + 7 passengers £50-75 return, foot passenger £18-28 return
- Southampton to West Cowes (Red Jet, 25 minutes, foot passengers only): £22-32 return
Hovertravel:
- Southsea to Ryde (hovercraft, 10 minutes, foot passengers only): £18-25 return. The world's only commercial hovercraft service. Slightly terrifying, completely brilliant.
My advice: Book ferries in advance for best prices. Spring is quieter, so you have more flexibility. If you're bringing a car, the Lymington to Yarmouth route is usually least crowded.
Getting Around
Car: Essential if you want to see everything in five days. The lanes are narrow and occasionally terrifying—oncoming traffic requires negotiation, patience, and occasionally reversing. Download offline maps. Phone signal is patchy in rural areas.
Bus: Southern Vectis runs the network. Day ticket £10 for unlimited travel. Covers all major attractions but limits your flexibility.
Train: The Island Line runs from Ryde to Shanklin along the coast. £5-10 depending on distance. Scenic but limited route.
Bike: Hire available in all major towns, £15-25 per day. The Red Squirrel Trail is 32 miles of mostly off-road cycling. Excellent if you're that way inclined.
Weather Reality Check
March: 5-11°C. Variable. Can still have strong winds. Sunrise ~6:30 AM, sunset ~6:00 PM. Early spring flowers, quiet beaches, some attractions still closed.
April: 7-14°C. Showers common but increasingly mild. Sunrise ~6:00 AM, sunset ~8:00 PM. Gardens blooming, more attractions opening, perfect walking weather if you don't mind getting wet occasionally.
May: 10-17°C. Generally mild and pleasant. Sunrise ~5:15 AM, sunset ~9:00 PM. Gardens at peak, everything open, warm enough for beach picnics on good days.
What to Pack
- Waterproof jacket (non-negotiable)
- Layers (temperature varies wildly)
- Walking boots, waterproof, with good grip (the coastal paths can be muddy and slippery)
- Warm sweater (sea breezes are chilly even on warm days)
- Light scarf and gloves (for March/early April)
- Umbrella (compact, for emergencies)
- Sunscreen and sunglasses (spring sun near water is stronger than you expect)
- Daypack
- Water bottle
- Cash (some rural pubs and car parks are cash-only)
- Phone charging bank (navigation drains battery)
- Camera
- Binoculars (for the falcons, and the donkeys, and the general birdlife)
What Things Cost (Spring 2026)
Accommodation:
- Budget B&B: £60-90 per night
- Mid-range hotel: £100-160 per night
- Luxury country house: £200-400 per night
Food:
- Breakfast: £8-14
- Pub lunch: £11-18
- Restaurant dinner: £18-32
- Afternoon tea: £14-22
Attractions:
- English Heritage properties: £12-20
- National Trust properties: £8-16
- Other attractions: £5-12
Tipping: 10-12.5% in restaurants for good service (check if already included). Round up in pubs. Round up to nearest pound in taxis.
Where to Stay
Budget:
- YHA Isle of Wight, Yarmouth (0345 371 9365): £20-35 dormitory, £55-85 private rooms
- Camping: £12-22 per night (check opening dates, some sites closed in early spring)
Mid-range:
- The George Hotel, Yarmouth (01983 760331): £100-150 per night, historic inn with harbour views
- The Royal Hotel, Ventnor (01983 852186): £120-180 per night, Victorian with gardens
Luxury:
- Northcourt Manor, Shorwell (01983 731616): £200-350 per night, Jacobean manor
- The Hambrough, Ventnor (01983 856333): £180-280 per night, boutique with Michelin-starred restaurant
Useful Contacts
- Visit Isle of Wight: visitisleofwight.co.uk
- Ryde Tourist Information: 01983 813813
- Newport Tourist Information: 01983 823366
- Emergency: 999 or 112
- Non-emergency police: 101
- NHS non-emergency: 111
Final Thoughts
The Isle of Wight in spring isn't perfect. The weather will test your waterproofing. Some attractions will be closed or running reduced hours. You'll occasionally wonder why you didn't just go to Cornwall like everyone else.
But then you'll be walking Tennyson Down with gorse blooming yellow against the sea, or watching a donkey operate a medieval water system with the patience of a creature that has never once considered the absurdity of its employment, or eating crab that was swimming that morning while looking out over a harbour that hasn't changed significantly in two hundred years.
And you'll understand why this slightly odd, defiantly unfashionable island keeps pulling people back.
Pack layers. Book your ferries. Say hello to the donkeys for me.