Edinburgh’s Whisky Bar Underground
Edinburgh is Scotland’s whisky capital, but most visitors only scratch the surface. They visit the whisky heritage centre, maybe buy a bottle at the airport, and consider the job done. Locals know better. Edinburgh has a thriving whisky culture—historic pubs with hundreds of malts, specialist bars with rare bottles, and hidden gems where conversation flows as freely as the amber liquid.
This guide takes you beyond the tourist traps to bars where Edinburgh’s whisky enthusiasts actually drink. These aren’t places with tartan-clad waiters or piped bagpipe music. They’re genuine establishments with character, knowledge, and passion for Scotland’s national drink.
1. The Bow Bar, Victoria Street
The Bow Bar is Edinburgh’s most serious whisky bar. No food, no gimmicks, just whisky and beer served by staff who know their stuff. The selection runs to over 300 malts, including many independent bottlings you won’t find elsewhere. The atmosphere is hushed and reverent—this is a place for serious appreciation rather than rowdy celebration.
What makes the Bow Bar special is the pricing. Despite the quality, bottles are remarkably reasonably priced. You won’t find airport price hikes here. The staff are genuinely knowledgeable—ask for recommendations based on what you like, and they’ll guide you expertly.
Local secret: Visit on a quiet weekday afternoon. The atmosphere is almost monastic, perfect for concentrating on the whisky. Sit at the bar and watch the locals come and go. Many are regulars who’ve been drinking here for decades.
Address: 80 Victoria Street, EH1 2JL
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12:30pm-11pm
2. The Royal McGregor, Grassmarket
The Royal McGregor has the best view of any whisky bar in Edinburgh. Located on the first floor overlooking Grassmarket, you can watch the world go by while working through their impressive whisky list. The selection is smaller than some bars (around 200 bottles) but carefully curated, focusing on quality over quantity.
What sets this place apart is the atmosphere. It’s convivial rather than solemn, with regular live folk music sessions on weekend nights. The staff are enthusiastic rather than intimidating—perfect if you’re new to whisky and want guidance without feeling patronised.
Insider tip: Try the whisky flight. Three half-measures of different malts for £15-20, themed by region or style. It’s an excellent way to compare and contrast different whiskies without committing to full measures.
Address: 79 Grassmarket, EH1 2HJ
Opening hours: Daily 10am-1am
3. The Albanach, High Street
The Albanach is a proper old Edinburgh pub with serious whisky credentials. Located on the Royal Mile, you might expect it to be a tourist trap, but it’s anything but. The whisky menu runs to over 500 bottles, including some rare finds that collectors covet. Yet prices remain surprisingly reasonable for the location.
The pub’s name comes from the Scottish Gaelic for “Scot,” reflecting its pride in Scottish heritage. The interior is traditional—dark wood, low lighting, and comfortable booths that invite lingering. This isn’t a place to rush your drink.
Hidden gem: The staff have connections with independent bottlers and sometimes get exclusive bottlings that you won’t find anywhere else. Ask what’s “special” behind the bar.
Address: 159 High Street, EH1 1SR
Opening hours: Daily 10am-1am
4. Whiski Bar & Restaurant, High Street
Despite being located on the Royal Mile, Whiski manages to be genuinely excellent. The whisky list is impressive (over 300 bottles) and the staff are knowledgeable without being pretentious. What makes it special is the food menu—haggis, neeps and tatties, Scottish cheeses—that pairs perfectly with whisky.
The bar runs regular whisky tasting sessions, often themed around specific regions or distilleries. These aren’t tourist gimmicks but genuine educational experiences led by passionate staff. They’re popular, so book in advance if you’re interested.
Local knowledge: The bar’s signature cocktail is the “Whisky Mac”—whisky mixed with ginger wine. It sounds dubious but is surprisingly delicious, especially on a cold Edinburgh evening. Try it.
Address: 119 High Street, EH1 1SG
Opening hours: Daily 11am-1am
5. The Devil’s Advocate, Advocate’s Close
The Devil’s Advocate is perhaps Edinburgh’s most atmospheric whisky bar. Located in a Victorian pump house with stone walls and exposed brickwork, it feels like a dungeon from a gothic novel. The whisky list is substantial and the selection is excellent, but it’s the atmosphere that keeps locals returning.
This is a place that demands time and attention. The lighting is low, the music is subtle, and the staff are in no rush to turn tables. Come with a companion you can talk to, or be prepared for introspection. It’s not a place for quick drinks.
Cocktail focus: While the whisky is excellent, the cocktail programme is equally strong. Try the “Penicillin” cocktail—whisky, lemon, ginger, and honey. It’s a modern classic that works beautifully with Scottish single malts.
Address: 9 Advocate’s Close, EH1 1ND
Opening hours: Daily 12pm-1am
6. The Guildford Arms, West Register Street
The Guildford Arms is a Victorian-era pub that’s changed little in over 150 years. The whisky selection is modest compared to specialist bars (around 100 bottles) but thoughtfully chosen. What makes it special is the sheer atmosphere—ornate ceiling, polished brass, and regulars who’ve been drinking here for decades.
This is drinking Edinburgh at its most authentic. No frills, no gimmicks, just excellent drink in beautiful surroundings. The staff know their whisky but won’t lecture you unless you ask. Perfect if you want a proper pub experience with a dram or two.
Historic detail: The pub is one of the few in Edinburgh to retain its original Victorian interior. It’s worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship—the carved woodwork alone is extraordinary.
Address: 5 West Register Street, EH2 2AA
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-midnight, Sun 12:30pm-11pm
7. Bon Vivant, Newington
Bon Vivant represents the new wave of Edinburgh whisky bars. Young, stylish, and unpretentious, it appeals to a different crowd than the traditional howffs. The whisky list is modern and eclectic—plenty of indie bottlings, craft whiskies, and experimental releases alongside the classics.
What sets Bon Vivant apart is the approachability. The staff are young, enthusiastic, and genuinely love whisky without being precious about it. This is the place to try something unusual—peated whisky aged in sherry casks, grain whiskies, or malts from obscure distilleries.
Seasonal special: In summer, they offer whisky cocktails that work in warm weather—whisky sours, highballs, and spritz-style drinks. It’s a great way to enjoy Scotch without the winter heaviness.
Address: 55 Newington Road, EH9 1QZ
Opening hours: Mon-Thu 4pm-1am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am, Sun 12:30pm-midnight
8. The Canny Man’s, Morningside
The Canny Man’s is a Edinburgh institution that defies description. Part antique shop, part museum, part pub, it’s been operating since 1871. The whisky selection is substantial and the atmosphere is unique—every surface is covered with curios, taxidermy, and memorabilia. It’s like drinking inside a Victorian collector’s cabinet.
This isn’t a place for the faint-hearted. The decor is eccentric, the staff characters, and the regulars a cross-section of Edinburgh society. But if you embrace the weirdness, it’s one of the most memorable drinking experiences in Scotland.
Local tradition: Ask about the “Canny Man’s Special”—a secret house cocktail recipe that’s been served here for over a century. The recipe is a closely guarded secret, but the taste is unlike anything else you’ll try.
Address: 237 Morningside Road, EH10 4RU
Opening hours: Daily 11am-11pm
9. The Brass Monkey, Drummond Street
The Brass Monkey has been serving Edinburgh since the 1970s and remains a local favourite. The whisky list is solid rather than spectacular (around 200 bottles) but the atmosphere is unbeatable—cosy, welcoming, and filled with regulars. This is a place where conversation flows as freely as the whisky.
What makes the Brass Monkey special is the regular folk music sessions. Every Sunday evening, local musicians gather for informal sessions. The music is traditional Scottish and Irish, played with passion rather than perfection. It’s not rehearsed or polished, but it’s magical.
Sunday evening tip: Arrive early (by 7pm) to get a seat for the music session. The place gets packed, and once full, the bar operates on a one-in-one-out basis.
Address: 14 Drummond Street, EH8 9TU
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 11pm-1am, Sun 12pm-midnight
10. Teuchter’s Landing, Leith Walk
Teuchter’s Landing is a relative newcomer but has quickly become a local favourite. Named after the Scottish word for “highlander,” it celebrates Highland culture without descending into tartan kitsch. The whisky list is extensive (over 300 bottles) with a focus on Highland single malts.
The bar is located in a former railway arch, giving it an industrial-chic feel. The staff are Highlanders themselves and passionate about promoting their region’s whiskies. They run regular tasting sessions focusing on different Highland areas—Speyside, the Northern Highlands, the islands.
Cultural connection: The bar displays artwork by contemporary Highland artists and hosts occasional poetry readings. It’s more than a drinking venue—it’s a cultural hub celebrating Highland identity in Edinburgh.
Address: 238 Leith Walk, EH6 8LP
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 12pm-midnight, Sun 12:30pm-11pm
Understanding Whisky Basics
Before diving in, understand the basics. Scotch whisky must be made in Scotland, aged in oak barrels for at least three years, and meet specific legal requirements. Single malt whisky comes from a single distillery. Blended whisky mixes single malts from multiple distilleries with grain whisky. Most of what you’ll drink is single malt.
The regions matter. Highland whiskies are generally smooth and approachable. Speyside malts (within the Highlands) are often fruity and elegant. Islay malts are famously peaty and smoky. Lowland whiskies are lighter and more delicate. Don’t get bogged down in details—taste is what matters.
Ordering Etiquette
How to order: “A dram of [bottle name]” or “a measure of [bottle name]” is perfectly acceptable. Or ask for recommendations—“I’m new to whisky, what do you suggest?”
With or without water: Both are correct. Purists argue water opens up the flavours. Others prefer it neat. Try both and see what you prefer. Good bars provide a small jug of water to add yourself.
Tasting: Take your time. Don’t rush. Hold the whisky in your mouth, let it coat your tongue. Notice the initial taste, the development, and the finish. There’s no wrong way to enjoy it.
Price Points
Budget-friendly: Most good whisky bars offer drams from £5-8. These won’t be rare or exceptional, but they’re perfectly drinkable. Start here if you’re new to whisky.
Mid-range: £8-15 gets you into interesting territory—independent bottlings, older whiskies, distillery-only releases. This is the sweet spot for serious appreciation.
Premium: £15+ gets you rare or old whiskies. These can be extraordinary, but also an acquired taste. Don’t rush to this level unless you know what you’re getting.
Whisky Myths Debunked
Myth: “Older whisky is always better” Reality: Age isn’t everything. Some whiskies peak at 12-15 years, others need 25+. Taste matters more than age.
Myth: “Islay whiskies are too peaty for beginners” Reality: Some Islay malts are gentle and approachable. Ask the bar staff for recommendations—they’ll guide you.
Myth: “You must drink whisky neat” Reality: Water, ice, or even in cocktails—all are valid. Enjoy whisky however you prefer it.
Myth: “All Scottish people love whisky” Reality: Many Scots don’t drink whisky at all. There’s no obligation to like it just because you’re in Scotland.
Whisky Touring Strategy
Geographic approach: Start with malts from the region you’re visiting. If you’re in the Highlands, try Highland whiskies first. Connect the drink to the place.
Comparative tasting: Try two or three whiskies side by side to understand the differences. Focus on one variable at a time—region, age, cask type.
Trust the staff: Edinburgh’s whisky bar staff are knowledgeable. Tell them what you like and don’t like, and let them guide you. That’s what they’re there for.
Seasonal Drinking
Winter: Rich, sherried whiskies, older malts with complexity, peaty Islay drams that warm you from inside. This is whisky’s natural season.
Spring: Lighter, fruitier malts. Lowland whiskies or younger Speysides work well. Consider whisky-based cocktails.
Summer: Whisky highballs, lighter malts, or even over ice. Yes, over ice. There’s no rule against it.
Autumn: Perfect whisky weather. Anything goes. The changing light makes bars particularly atmospheric.
Responsible Drinking
Edinburgh’s whisky bars are serious about responsible service. Staff will cut you off if you’ve had too much. Plan ahead:
- Eat before drinking
- Alternate whisky with water
- Know your limits
- Have a plan for getting home (Edinburgh has good public transport and taxis)
Whisky is strong—typically 40-46% ABV. One dram is roughly equivalent to a glass of wine in alcohol content. Respect it.
A Final Word
Edinburgh’s whisky culture isn’t about being an expert. It’s about appreciation, exploration, and enjoying good drink in good company. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or trying whisky for the first time, Edinburgh’s bars welcome you. The only mistake is not trying.
So visit a few of these places. Talk to the staff. Try something new. And discover why whisky has been Scotland’s national drink for centuries. It’s not just a beverage—it’s an experience.
Edinburgh’s whisky scene is deep, diverse, and welcoming. These 10 bars represent the best of what the city offers—from traditional howffs to modern specialists, from tourist centres to local secrets. Drink responsibly, ask questions, and enjoy Scotland’s greatest gift to the world. Just don’t ask for ice in your single malt. That’s pushing it.