Hidden Closes of Edinburgh’s Old Town

Edinburgh’s Old Town is famous for its dramatic castle and royal mile, but the real magic lies in the closes—narrow alleyways that plunge between the tall buildings into the heart of medieval Edinburgh. These hidden passageways, some barely wide enough for two people, tell the stories of the city’s past: the wealthy merchants, the desperate poor, the plague victims, and the everyday people who lived, worked, and died in this vertical city.

This guide reveals ten closes that most tourists never find, each with its own character and tales. Some are beautiful, some spooky, all are profoundly atmospheric and reveal layers of history that the main streets never show.

Understanding Edinburgh’s Closes

Before exploring, understand what a “close” is. The term comes from the Scots word “close,” meaning a narrow passage or alley leading from a main street to a courtyard or tenement building. Edinburgh grew vertically rather than horizontally, with buildings rising to seven or eight stories. Closes provided access to the upper floors and to the courtyards behind the main thoroughfares.

The closes were the lifeblood of medieval Edinburgh—everyday business, social interaction, and even crime happened here. Wealthy families occupied the upper floors (lighter, airier, and above the sewage in the streets), while the poor lived in damp, dark basements and cellars. The closes became known for particular trades, for infamous residents, or for dramatic events.

1. Mary King’s Close

Mary King’s Close is perhaps Edinburgh’s most famous, and for good reason. This underground close was sealed off in the 1700s when the Royal Exchange (now the City Chambers) was built above it. Rediscovered during construction in the 1990s, it offers a rare glimpse into medieval Edinburgh life.

What makes Mary King’s Close special is its remarkably preserved state. You can see original wooden doors, stone walls, and even personal belongings left behind when residents fled. The close has a dark history—it was home to victims of the 1644 plague outbreak, and tales of hauntings have persisted for centuries.

Visiting: Access is only by guided tour (book well in advance). The tour takes about an hour and includes the close itself plus other underground chambers. It’s genuinely atmospheric—dimly lit, echoing, and profoundly evocative of the past.

Historical note: Mary King was a real person—a successful merchant who lived here in the 1630s. The close was named after her unusual success as a businesswoman in a male-dominated world.

Ghost stories: The close is said to be haunted by Annie, a young girl abandoned during the plague. Visitors report feeling watched and hearing children’s cries. Whether you believe or not, the atmosphere is undeniably spooky.

2. Lady Stair’s Close

Lady Stair’s Close is home to the Writers’ Museum, celebrating three of Scotland’s greatest literary figures: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. The close itself is beautiful, with steps leading up to a lovely courtyard and the museum entrance.

What makes this close special is its literary connection. You’re literally walking in the footsteps of giants. The museum itself contains fascinating artifacts—manuscripts, personal belongings, and first editions. The close is peaceful and contemplative, a world away from the bustle of the Royal Mile above.

Hidden detail: Look for the plaque on the wall commemorating the site of the original house of John Knox, the Scottish Reformation leader. It’s easy to miss but offers a direct connection to one of Scotland’s most important historical figures.

Atmosphere: Unlike many of the darker closes, Lady Stair’s is bright and airy. The courtyard is a perfect spot to sit and read a Scottish classic—or just escape the crowds for a few moments.

Access: The close is open during museum hours (generally 10am-5pm, closed Sundays). The museum is free, though donations are appreciated.

3. Advocate’s Close

Advocate’s Close drops steeply from the Royal Mile towards Waverley Station, offering spectacular views across to the New Town and Calton Hill. What makes it special is this view—it’s one of the best in Edinburgh and completely free to enjoy.

The close takes its name from Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, the last advocate for Queen Mary in Scotland. But the real draw is the dramatic descent and the photographic opportunities at every turn. The tall buildings on either side create a canyon-like effect, with shafts of light breaking through at unexpected angles.

Photographer’s tip: Visit in late afternoon when the sun lights up the New Town buildings opposite. The contrast between the dark close and the bright golden-stone architecture across the valley creates spectacular images.

Hidden gem: About halfway down, look for the small plaque marking the location of Edinburgh’s first printing press (1507). It’s easily missed but represents a crucial moment in Scottish history—the beginning of a thriving publishing tradition.

Walking note: The close is steep and can be slippery in wet weather. Wear sensible shoes and take your time—the descent is worth savouring.

4. Old Fishmarket Close

Old Fishmarket Close was once the commercial heart of medieval Edinburgh, where fishmongers sold their daily catches. Today, it’s atmospheric and relatively quiet, with glimpses of the dramatic rear elevations of some of the Royal Mile’s most impressive buildings.

What makes this close special is its connection to everyday life. While royal and religious history dominates Edinburgh’s tourist narrative, this close tells the story of commerce, trade, and the people who kept the city fed. The archaeological remains visible here include old fish tanks and processing areas.

Archaeological interest: Look down at the street level—you can see archaeological layers exposed during renovations. These reveal the gradual raising of street level over centuries, a common phenomenon in old cities.

Local secret: The close offers some of the best views of St Giles’ Cathedral without the crowds. Look back up towards the cathedral’s dramatic west frontage for a perspective most visitors never see.

Access: The close is publicly accessible during daylight hours. It can be dark at night—bring a torch if visiting after dark.

5. Fleshmarket Close

Despite its ominous name, Fleshmarket Close is a fascinating window into Edinburgh’s commercial past. This was where the city’s butchers sold meat from the 16th to 18th centuries. Today, it’s atmospheric and relatively peaceful, with some excellent architectural details.

What makes Fleshmarket Close special is the sheer range of architectural styles visible in one short passageway. From medieval stone walls to Victorian additions, the close illustrates how Edinburgh evolved over centuries. The variety reflects the different social strata who lived here at different times.

Hidden detail: Look for the inscriptions and dates carved into the stone lintels. These mark the construction dates of different buildings and sometimes the names of original residents. They’re fascinating historical records written in stone.

Modern use: The close now houses several restaurants and bars. If you’re looking for a drink in atmospheric surroundings, this is an excellent choice—you’ll be surrounded by centuries of history while enjoying modern hospitality.

Safety note: Like many of Edinburgh’s closes, this one can be poorly lit. Visit during daylight or carry a torch. The steps can be slippery—take care after rain.

6. Craig’s Close

Craig’s Close is one of Edinburgh’s most beautiful, named after Sir James Craig, the architect of Edinburgh’s New Town. What makes it special is its remarkably preserved 17th-century architecture. The buildings lining the close have changed little in three centuries, creating an authentic medieval atmosphere.

The close leads to a beautiful courtyard that feels completely separate from modern Edinburgh. Time seems to have stopped here—you half-expect to see figures in period costume emerging from the wooden doors. It’s genuinely atmospheric and surprisingly quiet despite its central location.

Architectural highlight: Look up at the dormer windows and ornate cornices. These are original 17th-century features, remarkably preserved. The craftsmanship is exquisite and shows the wealth and status of the original residents.

Hidden detail: The close contains one of Edinburgh’s oldest inhabited houses. The plaque on the wall dates it to 1620—over 400 years of continuous habitation.

Photography note: The close faces southeast, making it best photographed in late morning when light floods in. The contrast between light and shadow creates dramatic compositions.

7. Warriston’s Close

Warriston’s Close is associated with John Warriston, one of the signatories of the National Covenant in 1638. What makes it special is its connection to Scotland’s religious history. The close was once home to several prominent Covenanters—Presbyterians who opposed royal interference in church matters.

Today, the close is atmospheric and relatively quiet, with excellent views across to the Old Town buildings beyond. The combination of historical significance and beautiful architecture makes this a must-visit for history enthusiasts.

Religious history: The Covenanting movement was crucial to Scottish identity and eventual union with England. This close provides a tangible connection to one of Scotland’s most turbulent religious periods.

Hidden gem: About halfway down, look for the small archaeological remains of an earlier building foundation. These show that there was habitation here before the current close was built in the 1600s.

Access: The close is publicly accessible but can be overgrown in summer. Wear trousers rather than shorts to avoid scratches from vegetation.

8. Chalmers’ Close

Chalmers’ Close is named after Dr Thomas Chalmers, a leading figure in the 19th-century Scottish religious revival. What makes it special is its variety of architectural styles and the excellent views it offers of surrounding buildings.

The close drops steeply towards the Cowgate, offering changing perspectives at every turn. The rear elevations of buildings visible here are often more interesting than their frontages—this is where servants worked, deliveries arrived, and the real business of the city happened.

Architectural variety: You’ll see everything from 16th-century stone walls to Victorian brickwork and modern additions. The close illustrates how different generations adapted existing structures to their needs.

Local secret: At the bottom of the close, you emerge near the site of the old Magdalen Chapel—a Catholic church that survived the Reformation. The chapel is tiny but fascinating, with original medieval stained glass.

Photography tip: The close offers excellent opportunities for capturing the contrast between old and new. Medieval stone walls juxtaposed with modern architecture tell Edinburgh’s story in a single frame.

9. Lady Wynd

Lady Wynd is technically a wynd (an even narrower type of alley) rather than a close, but it deserves inclusion for its atmospheric character and excellent views. What makes it special is its dramatic descent toward the Grassmarket—once the site of public executions.

The wynd is steep and atmospheric, with glimpses of the Old Town buildings through narrow gaps. You can almost feel the ghosts of Edinburgh’s past here—this was the path condemned prisoners took to the Grassmarket for their final moments.

Execution history: The Grassmarket was Edinburgh’s execution site until the 1780s. Prisoners were marched down from the castle via this route. It’s a grim history, but one that’s essential to understanding Edinburgh’s past.

Modern transformation: Today, the Grassmarket is a bustling area of pubs, restaurants, and street performers. The contrast between its bloody history and its current conviviality is striking.

Safety warning: The wynd is steep and can be slippery. Wear sensible shoes and take your time. The steps are uneven in places—use the handrail if available.

10. Anchor Close

Anchor Close is one of the Old Town’s hidden gems—a beautiful, peaceful alley that most tourists walk past without noticing. What makes it special is its unexpected tranquility despite its central location. Step off the busy Royal Mile and into a world of quiet contemplation.

The close takes its name from a now-vanished tavern called the Anchor, a meeting place for sailors and merchants. Today, the close is lined with attractive buildings and offers views across to the handsome rear of the City Chambers.

Hidden beauty: Look for the small courtyards off the main close. These hidden spaces are where residents once socialised, children played, and communities formed. They’re tiny but atmospheric.

Photographer’s tip: The close faces west, making it perfect for afternoon photography. The golden light catching the stone walls creates warm, atmospheric images.

Local use: The close is still used by residents—be quiet and respectful. You’re walking through people’s homes, even though it’s publicly accessible.

Practical Guide to Close Exploration

Timing: Explore closes during daylight hours for the best experience. Many are poorly lit and some feel eerie after dark. Mid-week mornings are quietest—you’re more likely to have them to yourself.

Footwear: Wear sensible shoes with good grip. Many closes have steep steps, uneven surfaces, or cobblestones. High heels are a bad idea.

Lighting: Carry a small torch. Even during daylight, some closes are shadowed. After dark, a torch is essential for safe navigation.

Accessibility: Many closes have steps and are not wheelchair accessible. Edinburgh’s cobbled streets also present challenges for those with mobility issues. Check accessibility before planning your route.

Weather: Edinburgh weather is changeable. Many closes are exposed and can be windy and wet. Carry waterproof clothing even in summer.

Respect: Remember that many closes lead to residential courtyards. Keep voices down, don’t take photos through people’s windows, and generally be considerate of residents.

Navigation: Download maps in advance—phone signal can be poor in narrow closes between tall buildings. Ordnance Survey maps show closes clearly.

Photography Tips

Composition: Use the tall buildings to create strong vertical lines. Frame shots to emphasise height and depth—closes are naturally claustrophobic, use this to your advantage.

Light: Early morning or late afternoon light creates dramatic shadows and golden tones. Mid-day light is harsh and can blow out highlights.

Details: Don’t just shoot the big picture—look for interesting architectural details: door knockers, carved stonework, window frames. These tell the close’s story as well as any grand vista.

Perspective: Different levels create different perspectives. Crouch low for dramatic angles, or shoot from above looking down the steps for depth.

Historical Context

Edinburgh’s closes developed because the city grew vertically rather than horizontally, constrained by the volcanic rock it’s built on. The Royal Mile runs along a ridge, with closes dropping away to the Cowgate and the New Town. This created a unique urban form—the medieval “tall town” that’s unlike anything else in Britain.

The closes were also social equalisers—rich and poor lived in the same buildings, just on different floors. This proximity created unique social dynamics and explains why Edinburgh has always had such strong community identity despite its size.

Hidden Details to Look For

Inscriptions: Carved dates, names, and initials appear on many closes. These record the building’s history and sometimes the people who lived here.

Architectural features: Look for different stone types, building techniques, and decorative elements. These show how building practices evolved over centuries.

Plaques and markers: Many closes have historical markers. Read these—they provide context and fascinating snippets of history.

Modern additions: Notice how 21st-century life continues in these ancient spaces—satellite dishes, modern windows, air conditioning units. These show that Edinburgh’s closes are living spaces, not museum pieces.

Safety Considerations

Isolation: Some closes feel isolated and can be intimidating, especially after dark. Trust your instincts—if a close doesn’t feel right, don’t continue.

Slippery surfaces: Wet stone is slippery. Take your time on steps and steep descents. Handrails are available on some closes—use them.

Poor lighting: Many closes are poorly lit. A torch is your best friend. Don’t rely on your phone’s flashlight—it’s not bright enough.

Alcohol: The Old Town has many pubs and bars. Some close-users will have been drinking. Be aware of your surroundings, especially at night.

A Note on the Paranormal

Edinburgh’s closes are famously haunted. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the atmospheric lighting, age, and history of these spaces naturally create feelings of unease. Most ghost stories are relatively recent inventions, but some have persisted for centuries.

Mary King’s Close is the most notorious, with documented reports of unexplained phenomena. Other closes have their own stories—footsteps where no-one walks, cold spots, whispered voices. Whether supernatural or just the power of imagination, these stories add to the closes’ mystique.

If you’re interested in the paranormal, consider a specialised ghost tour. Many companies operate in Edinburgh and some offer access to closes that are otherwise closed to the public.

Final Thoughts

Edinburgh’s closes are the city’s secret heart—the places where real life happened for centuries. They’re more atmospheric than the castle, more revealing than the palace, and more authentic than any museum. Exploring them is the best way to understand what Edinburgh really is: a layered, complex, fascinating city that has grown organically over centuries.

These narrow passageways offer a direct connection to the past. Every stone has witnessed centuries of life—births and deaths, celebrations and tragedies, ordinary days and extraordinary events. Walking through them is walking through history itself.

Take your time, be respectful, and let your imagination run wild. The closes reveal their secrets to those who pause and listen. Edinburgh is waiting to share its stories—all you have to do is venture down the first narrow alley you find.