Devon Cream Teas: The Definitive Guide
In the great cream tea debate – Devon vs Cornwall – Devon makes its case with simple perfection: first cream, then jam. It’s a tradition that’s been perfected over centuries in this county of rolling countryside, rugged coastlines, and passionate food producers. From cream-first purists to those who simply want the best scone they’ve ever eaten, Devon delivers cream teas that are genuinely worth crossing the county border for.
The Devon Method
Before we dive in, the golden rule: cream first, then jam. This isn’t just tradition – there’s logic to it. The rich, thick clotted cream provides a substantial base that the jam can cling to, creating layers of flavour rather than a sweet sludge. Think of it like cheese on toast – you wouldn’t put the jam under the cheese, would you?
The Components
The Scone: Freshly baked, warm but not hot. Should split easily when squeezed (don’t use a knife!). Texture is light and crumbly, not dense or dry.
The Clotted Cream: Thick, golden, rich – the Devon clotted cream has higher fat content (around 55-60%) and a distinctive crust that forms during the slow-clotting process.
The Jam: Traditionally strawberry, though raspberry and blackcurrant aren’t uncommon. The jam should be set but spreadable, with visible fruit pieces.
Devon’s Best Cream Tea Spots
Torquay & Paignton
Rosie’s Tea Room (Torquay) – The classic cream tea done with genuine care. Freshly baked scones, proper clotted cream, excellent jam. The harbour views are a bonus.
The Grand Hotel (Torquay) – For a slightly more elevated experience. The cream tea here is served in elegant surroundings with proper china and attentive service.
Exeter
The Café at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum – An unexpected gem. Excellent cream teas in a beautiful setting, and you can visit the museum while you’re there.
Mama Mia’s – Sounds Italian, but they do a cream tea that locals swear by. It’s the sort of place that gets everything right without making a fuss.
Dartmouth
The Britannia Royal Naval College – A bit unusual but the cream teas here are spectacular and the setting – overlooking the Dart estuary – can’t be beaten.
The Steam Packet Inn – Riverside location, traditional pub atmosphere, and cream teas that are as good as anywhere in the county.
Salcombe
The Winking Prawn – Not your typical cream tea venue (it’s more beach café), but the scones are fresh and the location is unbeatable.
North Sands Hotel – Overlooking the estuary, with cream teas that strike the perfect balance between quality and casual atmosphere.
Clovelly
The Red Lion – At the bottom of the car-free village (you’ll have earned it by the time you get there). The cream tea here is exactly what you’d want after walking down that cobbled street.
North Devon
Combe Martin – Several spots, but The Pack of Cards Inn does a cream tea that’s well worth the detour. The scones are freshly baked and the cream is local.
Ilfracombe – The Carlton Hotel does traditional cream teas in a Victorian setting. Proper job, as they say in these parts.
The Cream Tea Pilgrimage
Route 1: The Torbay Circuit
Start at Rosie’s in Torquay, move to The Grand for a second cream tea (yes, really – they’re different), then head to Mama Mia’s in Paignton. Three cream teas in one day is ambitious, but this is a serious commitment to tradition.
Route 2: The Estuary Experience
Dartmouth in the morning for The Britannia, then Salcombe in the afternoon. The Steam Packet Inn or The Winking Prawn depending on your mood.
Route 3: The North Devon Tour
Ilfracombe for the Carlton Hotel’s cream tea, then Combe Martin for The Pack of Cards. Finish at Clovelly if you’ve got energy (that walk down is worth it).
Understanding Clotted Cream
What It Is
Clotted cream is made by slowly heating unpasteurised milk, then letting it cool so the cream rises to the surface and “clots” into a rich, thick layer. The process takes 12-24 hours and produces cream with a fat content of around 55-60%.
Why Devon’s Is Special
Devon’s mild climate and dairy traditions produce exceptional cream. The grass-fed cows, traditional farming methods, and artisan producers combine to create clotted cream that’s richer, deeper in flavour, and with that characteristic crust.
Top Producers
Rodda’s (Cornwall, but widely available across Devon) – The benchmark, found in supermarkets and cafés throughout the county. Langage Farm (Plymouth) – Local, small-batch, excellent quality. Various farm shops – Many smaller producers supply local cafés and farm shops – these can be exceptional.
The Scone Science
What Makes the Perfect Scone
The ideal Devon scone is:
- Freshly baked (still warm is ideal)
- Light and crumbly, not dense
- Splits easily when squeezed
- Not too sweet (save the sweetness for the jam)
- Just the right size – big enough to be substantial, not so big it’s overwhelming
The Split Method
Traditional Devon method: squeeze the scone between thumb and fingers – it should split cleanly. Using a knife creates straight edges but compresses the crumb. Squeezing creates a natural split that holds cream and jam better.
Scone Variations
Plain – The classic and most common. Fruit – With sultanas or raisins – equally traditional. Cheese – Not for cream tea but worth trying in Devon – excellent with a bit of pickle.
The Jam Question
Strawberry or Raspberry?
Strawberry is the traditional choice, but raspberry isn’t heresy. The key is proper jam – set enough to spread without running, not so firm it’s like jelly. Visible fruit pieces are a sign of quality.
Making Your Own
Devon strawberry jam is straightforward: strawberries, sugar, lemon juice. The secret is the strawberries – the county’s mild climate produces berries with excellent flavour. Use seasonal fruit, and the jam will practically make itself.
Cream Tea Etiquette
The Order
Cream first, then jam. This is the Devon way and we don’t debate it (Cornwall can have jam-first – that’s their choice).
How to Eat
- Split the scone by squeezing
- Add a generous layer of clotted cream
- Top with jam (not too much, not too little)
- Eat with fingers – no knives
- Enjoy without guilt – you’re participating in centuries of tradition
What Goes With
Tea – Obviously. Earl Grey or a good English breakfast blend. Maybe butter? – Traditionalists say no. Realists say if your scone is slightly dry, a thin layer isn’t a sin. Maybe both? – Some places offer both cream and jam separately. Still cream first, just more control over ratios.
Beyond the Basic
The “Super Cream Tea”
Some places go beyond basic:
- Extra scones
- Pastries alongside
- Sandwiches first (making it more afternoon tea than cream tea)
- Champagne or prosecco upgrades
Is it still a cream tea? Debatable. Is it delicious? Absolutely.
Savoury Variations
The Devon cream tea with cheese – not traditional but increasingly common. Replace jam with a good local cheese and perhaps some chutney. Delicious if you’re not in the mood for sweet.
Seasonal Considerations
Summer
Peak cream tea season. Everyone’s doing them, scones are fresh, strawberries are at their best. But everyone’s doing them – queues, limited outdoor seating, and some places rush.
Spring/Early Autumn
Sweet spot. Slightly less busy, still good weather, everything’s at its peak.
Winter
Cosy cream tea indoors. Rain outside, warm scones inside, proper cups of tea. Some places close or reduce hours, so check ahead.
Taking Devon Home
The Souvenir Kit
You can recreate Devon cream teas at home:
- Scones (fresh or frozen)
- Clotted cream (available in supermarkets across the UK)
- Good jam (Devon strawberry if you can find it)
- The technique (cream first, then jam)
Where to Buy
Supermarkets – All major UK chains stock clotted cream and good jam. Farm shops – For artisan clotted cream and local jams. Online – Rodda’s delivers nationwide. Airport – Exeter Airport has clotted cream and local products for last-minute purchases.
The Cream Tea in Context
Cream teas aren’t just about the food – they’re about the setting, the ritual, the pause in a busy day. Whether you’re looking out over a harbour, sitting in a country pub, or just taking a break from sightseeing, a cream tea is about slowing down, enjoying simple pleasures, and participating in a tradition that generations have enjoyed before you.
Devon’s contribution to this tradition is about quality ingredients done right. The scones are baked fresh, the cream is rich and thick, the jam is proper. It’s not complicated, but getting it right matters – and that’s what makes Devon cream teas worth the pilgrimage.
Final Tips
For the Best Experience
Go mid-morning or mid-afternoon – scones are fresh, crowds are manageable. Sit outside if possible – Devon’s scenery is part of the experience. Don’t rush – cream tea isn’t about efficiency. Try a couple of places – different cafés have different approaches.
What to Avoid
Mass-produced, cold scones – they should be warm. Whipped cream pretending to be clotted – it’s not the same thing. Jam that’s too runny – your cream tea will be a mess. Crowds where you can’t find a seat – part of the experience is the setting.
The Devon cream tea isn’t complicated, but it is precise. Cream first, then jam. Warm scone, proper cream, good jam. Find a nice spot, take your time, enjoy the moment. That’s the Devon way – and that’s why people keep coming back for more.