Anglesey in Spring: Where the Irish Sea Meets a Thousand Years of Welsh Stone

By Sophie Brennan

The first time I drove across the Menai Suspension Bridge onto Anglesey, I had one of those moments where you realise you've been missing something. There it was—this island hanging off the northwest corner of Wales, surrounded by the Irish Sea on three sides, with Snowdonia rising behind it like a backdrop someone painted just to show off. I'd lived in the UK for fifteen years and somehow never made it here. Don't be like me.

Anglesey in spring is the time to come. The summer crowds haven't arrived yet, the lambs are actually lambs (not slightly bigger sheep), and you can walk into most restaurants without booking a week ahead. The bluebells at Newborough Forest will make you stop and stare. The seabirds at South Stack will make you wish you'd brought better binoculars. And the seafood—Anglesey oysters, Menai mussels, crab so fresh it was swimming yesterday—will remind you why you bother travelling anywhere.

This isn't a day-by-day itinerary. It's a thematic guide for people who'd rather wander with purpose than tick boxes. I write about food and the places where history and flavour collide. Anglesey has both in abundance.

The Lay of the Land

Anglesey is bigger than you think. At 276 square miles, it's the largest island in Wales and the seventh-largest in the British Isles. The coastal path alone is 125 miles, which gives you some sense of the scale. You'll want a car—public transport exists but it's the kind that requires patience and a good book.

The island sits off the northwest coast of Wales, connected to the mainland by two bridges: Thomas Telford's 1826 Menai Suspension Bridge (narrow, scenic, occasionally terrifying in a large vehicle) and the Britannia Bridge (dual carriageway, faster, less charm). From London, you're looking at about five hours of driving. From Manchester, two. From Holyhead, there's a train station with direct services to London Euston (about 3.5 hours) if you'd rather not drive.

Spring weather here means layers. March can still feel like winter's reluctant farewell party—temperatures around 6-11°C, rain that comes horizontally, winds that will steal your hat. By May, you're looking at 11-16°C, longer evenings, and the kind of mild days that make you optimistic about British summers. The key is being prepared for four seasons in one afternoon.

Where to base yourself: You've got three solid options. Beaumaris for charm—Georgian streets, the castle, good restaurants, a proper bookshop. The Bull pub has been serving pints since 1472. Rhosneigr for beach life—two beaches, surf culture, and The Oyster Catcher, one of the best seafood restaurants in North Wales. Menai Bridge for convenience—right on the bridge to the mainland, Dylan's restaurant, easy access everywhere. For a week, I'd pick Beaumaris. It feels like a place people actually live, not just visit.

The Coastal Edge: Cliffs, Seabirds, and the Sea Itself

South Stack and Holyhead Mountain

Start at the dramatic end. South Stack Lighthouse sits on a rocky island off Holy Island, connected to the mainland by a suspension bridge and 400 steps down the cliff face. In spring, the seabird colonies here are extraordinary—puffins, razorbills, guillemots, and thousands of gulls nesting on the sheer cliffs.

Arrive by 9:30am. The RSPB car park is £5 (free for members), and it fills up on spring weekends. The birds are most active in the morning, diving and wheeling around the cliffs. The choughs—those red-billed, red-legged corvids that are basically Anglesey's mascot—nest here too. Watch for their acrobatic flight.

The 400 steps down to the lighthouse are steep and not for anyone with knee problems. If you can't manage them, the views from the clifftop are still excellent. The lighthouse itself opens weekends in spring (11am-4pm, £4 entry) with tours up to the lantern room.

For lunch, the South Stack Café has panoramic sea views and serves a decent Welsh cawl—lamb stew with vegetables, the kind of thing that makes sense when the wind's blowing. They also do crab sandwiches and bara brith. It's basic but the location is hard to beat.

After lunch, walk Holyhead Mountain. At 220 metres, it's Anglesey's highest point, and the circular route from the car park is about 4.5 miles. You'll pass Iron Age hut circles—stone foundations where people lived two thousand years ago—and get views across to Ireland on clear days. The path is rough in places; proper walking boots help.

For dinner, drive into Holyhead and book a table at The Harbourfront Bistro on Newry Beach. It's modern Welsh cooking—local sea bass, Welsh lamb rump, proper sticky toffee pudding. About £35-45 a head with wine. Alternatively, The Boston Arms on Boston Street is a proper local pub with real ales and generous portions.

Stay at The Beach Hut Guest House on Newry Street—boutique rooms with sea views, about £85-120 a night.

Cemaes Bay and the North Coast

The north coast is wilder, less visited, and dramatic in a different way. Cemaes Bay is a small harbour village with a working fishing port and a sheltered beach. The Anglesey Coastal Path runs through here, and the section west towards Llanbadrig is excellent.

The walk to Llanbadrig is about 3 miles one way. You'll reach a cliff-top church with a striking blue ceiling painted with gold stars—unusual and beautiful. The churchyard is full of spring flowers. The story goes that Saint Patrick himself founded it in the 5th century after being shipwrecked nearby. You can see the White Arch, a natural limestone formation, from the path.

Spring squill creates blue carpets on the cliff tops. Sea campion (white) and thrift (pink) add colour. Gorse is in full yellow bloom, smelling of coconut in the sun.

Lunch at The Harbour Hotel—harbour-side pub with fish and chips, crab sandwiches, local cask ales. Views from the terrace. Dogs welcome.

In the afternoon, drive to Porth Wen to see the abandoned brickworks. It's one of Anglesey's most atmospheric spots—a Victorian industrial site in a secluded cove, with old kilns silhouetted against the sea. Access is from a layby on the A5025, then a 15-minute walk down a steep path. The site is dangerous—unstable structures, cliff edges—so view from a safe distance. But the photographs are extraordinary, especially in the soft spring light.

Llanddwyn Island and Newborough Forest

This is the day that will stay with you. Newborough Forest is a vast pine plantation on the southwest corner of Anglesey, planted in the 1940s to stabilise the dunes. In April and May, the forest floor is carpeted with bluebells—one of the most spectacular displays in North Wales. The scent of pine and bluebells together is something else.

The Bluebell Trail is a 2-mile marked route through the densest areas. Late April to mid-May is peak bloom. You'll also see wood anemones, wild garlic, and greater stitchwort. The red squirrels are here too—Anglesey is one of the few places in Wales where they've survived. Early morning or late afternoon is best for spotting them.

Parking at the forest entrance is £2 for 2 hours or £5 all day. The visitor centre (10am-4pm) has toilets, a basic café, and information about the squirrels. Bring a picnic or buy sandwiches at the café.

After exploring the forest, walk to Llanddwyn Island. It's a tidal island—you can reach it at most tide states, though it's cut off for about 3 hours either side of high tide. Check times at the visitor centre. The island is named after Saint Dwynwen, the Welsh patron saint of lovers (the Welsh Valentine's, basically), who retreated here after a tragic romance in the 5th century.

The ruins of her church are still here—touch the stone for luck in love, apparently. There are also 19th-century pilot's cottages, two lighthouses (Tŵr Mawr looks like a castle tower), and beaches where grey seals haul out. Keep 100 metres distance from the seals. They're bigger than you think and not interested in visitors.

The island is exposed—wind even on calm days. No facilities, so bring water. Allow 2-3 hours for the full circuit.

The Stones That Remain: Castles, Churches, and the Menai Strait

Beaumaris Castle

Beaumaris Castle is the last and most technically perfect of Edward I's Welsh castles—a concentric design with two rings of walls, moat still filled with water, and a symmetry that pleases the eye. UNESCO thought enough of it to make it a World Heritage Site.

The castle opens at 9:30am (£9.50 adults). Spring is ideal for visiting—the daffodils and bulbs planted around the walls are flowering, and the mild temperatures make climbing the towers genuinely pleasant. Walk the walls, explore the gatehouses, and appreciate the medieval military engineering. The exhibition inside covers the construction and daily life here in the 13th century.

For lunch, The Bull on Castle Street is non-negotiable. It's been an inn since 1472—Grade II listed, beamed ceilings, real ales from local breweries. The Welsh rarebit is excellent, the beef burgers are properly sourced, and the atmosphere is exactly what you want from a historic pub. Dogs welcome in the bar.

Spend the afternoon wandering Beaumaris. The Victorian Gaol on Steeple Lane (£7.50 entry) is worth an hour—original cells, a punishment treadwheel, and a dark cell that gives you a sense of 19th-century incarceration. The courthouse museum on Castle Street is smaller but interesting. The pier at the end of Castle Street is Victorian, Grade II listed, and offers views across the Menai Strait to Snowdonia. Look for seals in the water, particularly at low tide.

The town has good independent shops—antiques, crafts, a proper bookshop. Castle Street and Church Street are the main drags. The coastal path from the pier towards Gallows Point gives you views of the suspension bridge.

For dinner, book ahead at The Midland Tapas & Wine Bar—Spanish-Welsh fusion in a converted space on Castle Street. Patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo, a Welsh cheese board. Intimate, good wine list. Alternatively, Pier House Restaurant does excellent seafood—lobster, Menai mussels, that sea salt caramel dessert.

Stay at The Bishop's House on Church Street—luxury B&B in a historic townhouse, £120-180 a night, exceptional breakfast.

Plas Newydd and the Menai Strait

Plas Newydd is a National Trust property on the Strait, and spring is the best time to visit. The gardens are designed for spring colour—rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias in full display. The house itself is an 18th-century mansion with Gothic Revival additions and the largest Rex Whistler trompe-l'œil mural in Britain—a fantastical coastal scene that covers an entire wall.

The house opens at 11am, gardens at 10am. Entry is £14.50 for house and gardens, £9.50 gardens only. National Trust members free. The Military Museum covers the Battle of Waterloo and the 1st Marquess of Anglesey, who lost his leg at Waterloo and had a famous artificial limb made.

The gardens are the main draw in spring. The camellias in the walled garden are early, the rhododendrons peak in April-May, and the azaleas fill the air with fragrance. The famous view from the gardens looks across the Strait to Snowdonia—on a clear day, it's postcard perfect.

Lunch at the Courtyard Café—National Trust standard, but decent soups, Welsh cheeses, bara brith. The outdoor seating in the stable courtyard is pleasant in spring sun.

After lunch, explore Menai Bridge itself. Walk across Thomas Telford's 1826 suspension bridge—the world's first major suspension bridge, which finally allowed travel to Anglesey without ferries. The pedestrian walkway gives you views up and down the Strait.

Church Island (Ynys Tysilio) is accessible via a causeway at low tide, or always via the footbridge from the Belgian Promenade. St Tysilio's Church dates from the 7th century, and the churchyard has bluebells in spring. The Belgian Promenade itself was built by Belgian refugees during WWI and makes a pleasant waterside walk.

Dinner at The Straits on High Street—gastropub with locally sourced steaks and fresh fish. About £30-40 a head. Alternatively, The Antelope is a more traditional pub with real ales and straightforward food.

St Cwyfan's Church and Cemlyn Bay

Cemlyn Bay is a National Trust nature reserve and one of the most important tern colonies in Wales. In late spring, the Sandwich terns arrive from Africa to breed on the shingle beach. There's a bird hide for quiet observation, and the lagoon behind the beach attracts wildfowl and waders.

The tern colony becomes active in May—birds arrive, court, establish territories. By June it's chaos. Watch from the coastal path and don't approach the colony. These are ground-nesting birds, easily disturbed.

From Cemlyn, drive to St Cwyfan's Church—the famous "church in the sea" near Aberffraw. It's on a tiny tidal island, accessible on foot at low tide. Check tide tables before you go. The 12th-century church is extraordinarily atmospheric, surrounded by water, with seabirds nesting nearby. Spring flowers fill the churchyard.

The Food You Came For

Anglesey has some of the best seafood in the British Isles, full stop. The waters here are cold and clean, and the tidal range (up to 8 metres) means the shellfish are constantly working, which makes them sweeter and firmer.

Anglesey Sea Salt is the famous export—harvested from the Menai Strait, flaky and mineral. You'll find it on tables everywhere. Menai mussels are the thing to order—served in white wine and garlic at Dylan's, or in a Thai curry at The Oyster Catcher. Crab comes in sandwiches, salads, and linguine. Lobster when it's in season. Sea bass line-caught from local boats.

But it's not all seafood. Welsh lamb from the island's salt-marsh farms has a distinct flavour—sweeter, apparently, because of the vegetation the sheep graze on. Welsh rarebit (glorified cheese on toast, but done properly with ale and mustard) appears on most pub menus. Bara brith is the fruit loaf you'll find in cafés—good with butter and a cup of tea. Welsh cakes are the scone-like biscuits that fill the gap between meals.

The beer is worth mentioning too. Anglesey has its own brewery—Anglesey Brewing Company—and you'll find their cask ales in pubs across the island. The White Shell bitter is a reliable choice. For something stronger, Welsh gin and whisky are having a moment.

Where to Eat

Dylan's (Menai Bridge, High Street) — Wood-fired pizzas, Menai mussels, stylish interior, always busy. Book ahead. This is the place locals take visitors.

The Oyster Catcher (Rhosneigr, Beach Road) — Seriously, book this. It's one of the best seafood restaurants in North Wales. Anglesey oysters, local lobster, crab linguine. The seafood platters are generous. Views over the beach. About £40-50 a head with wine. Essential booking, especially weekends.

The Bull (Beaumaris, Castle Street) — Historic pub, been an inn since 1472. Welsh rarebit, beef burgers, real ales. The atmosphere is exactly what you want.

The Harbourfront Bistro (Holyhead, Newry Beach) — Modern Welsh cooking. Local sea bass, Welsh lamb rump, sticky toffee pudding. About £35-45 a head with wine.

The Straits (Menai Bridge, High Street) — Gastropub with locally sourced steaks and fresh fish. About £30-40 a head.

The Midland Tapas & Wine Bar (Beaumaris, Castle Street) — Spanish-Welsh fusion. Intimate, good wine list. Patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo, Welsh cheese board.

Pier House Restaurant (Beaumaris, Castle Street) — Excellent seafood. Lobster, Menai mussels, sea salt caramel dessert.

The Gazelle Hotel (Menai Bridge, by the river) — Welsh lamb and local sea bass with views of the suspension bridge.

The Anglesey Arms (Menai Bridge, North Road) — Proper pub with Strait views. Rooms available, about £90-140 a night.

The Quiet Corners: Wildlife and Inland

Llyn Alaw and Inland Anglesey

Head inland to Llyn Alaw, Anglesey's largest reservoir. It's 160 hectares of water surrounded by farmland, and it's excellent for birdwatching. The circular path is 5 miles, flat and easy. You'll see wigeon, teal, pochard, tufted duck, great crested grebes. Spring migration brings various waders passing through.

It's much quieter than the coast—a different kind of peace. Fishing permits are available if you want to try your luck.

Aberffraw and the Church in the Sea

Aberffraw is the historic village that was once the capital of North Wales. The Princes of Gwynedd held court here from the 9th to 13th centuries. St Beuno's Church in the village centre is medieval with an ancient font. The beach at Aberffraw is wide, sandy, backed by dunes—part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

The Church in the Sea (St Cwyfan) is nearby—walkable at low tide. Check tide tables before you go. The 12th-century church is extraordinarily atmospheric, surrounded by water, with seabirds nesting nearby. Spring flowers fill the churchyard.

Rhosneigr Beach Life

Rhosneigr has two beaches: Traeth Llydan is the wide sandy one popular with kite surfers, Traeth Cymyran is longer, backed by dunes, good for birdwatching. Spring brings quieter conditions before the summer crowds. The Atlantic swells can be impressive—dramatic wave displays against the rocks.

The Reef Café on Beach Road does good breakfast baps, homemade cakes, coffee. Surf café vibe, relaxed, beach views.

Stay at Sandy Mount House in Rhosneigr—modern rooms, good restaurant, £100-150 a night.

What to Skip

1. The Holyhead Port Area (Unless You're Catching a Ferry)

The ferry terminal and surrounding industrial zone is functional but charmless. There's nothing here for visitors except the Harbourfront Bistro, which is genuinely good, but don't spend time wandering the docks.

2. Any Restaurant Advertising "Traditional Sunday Roast" Without a Local Source

The pubs doing roast dinners with frozen Yorkshire puddings and reheated gravy are easy to spot—overly laminated menus, laminated menus with photos of the food. Anglesey's food is about freshness. If the lamb isn't from the island and the fish isn't from local boats, you're in the wrong place.

3. The Britannia Bridge for Photography

The dual carriageway bridge is faster and more convenient than the Menai Suspension Bridge, but it's an ugly concrete structure designed for trains and cars. The original tubular bridge was an engineering marvel, but the 1970s fire and rebuild left it purely functional. Cross it to save time, but photograph the Suspension Bridge instead.

4. The Fast-Food Chains on the A55 Corridor

The road from the mainland into Anglesey is lined with the same chain restaurants you'll find on every British bypass. You're on an island with some of the best seafood in the country. Skip the beige burgers and drive five minutes further to a local pub.

5. The Llanddwyn Island Pilots' Cottages Interior (Unless You're a History Buff)

The exterior of the cottages and the lighthouse are photogenic and worth the walk. The interior of the pilots' cottages is a small museum with limited interpretation. It's fine, but if you're pressed for time, enjoy the island from outside and spend your indoor hours at Plas Newydd or Beaumaris Castle instead.

Practicalities

Money: British pounds. Cards accepted everywhere. Tipping 10-15% in restaurants, not expected in pubs for drinks.

Emergency: 999 for emergencies, 101 for non-emergency police, 111 for NHS advice.

Language: Welsh is widely spoken. Useful phrases: "Bore da" (good morning), "Diolch" (thank you), "Croeso" (welcome). Place names often contain clues: "Aber" means river mouth, "Llan" means church, "Ynys" means island.

Tides: Always check tide times before coastal walks. Available online, in local papers, or at visitor centres. Getting cut off is easy and dangerous.

Dogs: Keep on leads near livestock (especially during lambing season) and ground-nesting birds (April-July on beaches and cliffs).

Phone signal: Generally good in towns, patchy on remote coasts. EE has the best rural coverage.

When to go: Late April to mid-May is the sweet spot—bluebells at Newborough, terns arriving at Cemlyn, mussels at their plumpest, the summer crowds still weeks away. March can be raw and wintery. June is lovely but busier.

Getting there: By car from London (M1, M6, A55) is about 5 hours. From Manchester, 2 hours. By train to Holyhead from London Euston (about 3.5 hours via Virgin Trains/Avanti West Coast). The island is best explored by car—rent one at Holyhead or bring your own.

Where to stay (summary):

Beaumaris: The Bishop's House (£120-180/night), The Bull (rooms from £90)
Menai Bridge: The Anglesey Arms (£90-140/night)
Rhosneigr: Sandy Mount House (£100-150/night)
Holyhead: The Beach Hut Guest House (£85-120/night)

Final Thoughts

Anglesey doesn't shout for attention. It's not the Scottish Highlands or the Lake District. It's quieter, more understated—a working island with farming and fishing communities that happen to live somewhere beautiful.

The spring light here is extraordinary. Something about the latitude, the sea on three sides, the clarity after winter storms. The seafood is as good as anywhere in Britain. The history is layered and present—castles, standing stones, churches that have been here for a thousand years.

Come hungry. Bring waterproofs. Walk further than you planned. And eat the oysters—they're worth the trip on their own.

Sophie Brennan writes about food, history, and the places where they intersect. She's based in Edinburgh but spends as much time as possible in Wales, particularly when there's seafood involved.