Malmö: Where Calatrava Twists and Syrian Bakeries Rise on the Same Street

By Yuki Tanaka, Architecture & Photography Correspondent

I came to Malmö for the Turning Torso. I stayed for the neighborhoods that explain why it exists.

Most people pass through Malmö without stopping. They take the train from Copenhagen Airport, change platforms, and continue north to Stockholm or Gothenburg. Those who do step out find a city that rebuilt itself from industrial decline into something unexpectedly forward-looking—not through grand monuments, but through a thousand small decisions about how people should live.

Malmö sits at the narrowest point of the Öresund Strait, connected to Copenhagen by an 8-kilometer bridge that has fundamentally altered the city's identity since opening in 2000. What was once a gritty shipbuilding town is now a laboratory for sustainable urban design, with neighborhoods that other cities send delegations to study. But the real story is not in the architectural awards. It is in the Syrian bakeries that opened next to passive-house apartment blocks, in the natural wine bars that appeared in former shipyard districts, in the fact that a city of 350,000 people now produces some of Scandinavia's most interesting food.

This is a guide to the Malmö that exists now—not the one that won design prizes, but the one where people actually live.

The Architecture of Reinvention: Västra Hamnen and Beyond

Turning Torso and the Waterfront That Refused to Die

Start in Västra Hamnen, the western harbor district that proves sustainable development does not have to look like sacrifice. The Turning Torso dominates the skyline—a 190-meter residential tower designed by Santiago Calatrava that twists 90 degrees from base to top. Completed in 2005, it remains Scandinavia's tallest building. The nine cubes rotate 11 degrees relative to each other, creating a form inspired by a sculpture of a twisting human spine. Residents live in 54 floors of apartments; visitors can admire the exterior from the boardwalk below.

The truth about the tower: The building has become the city's shorthand for transformation, though locals will tell you the real achievement is the neighborhood surrounding it. Limited guided tours to the 54th floor operate during summer months (July–September) on select dates, requiring advance booking. Tickets cost approximately 195 SEK for adults and 100 SEK for children—though availability is extremely limited and books out weeks ahead. Most visitors should content themselves with exterior photography and waterfront walks. The building becomes genuinely spectacular during golden hour, when angled light emphasizes its sculptural qualities.

Getting there: Take bus 2 or 5 from Malmö Central Station to the Västra Hamnen area. A single ticket costs 22 SEK and covers all local buses and trains within the city zone.

The Neighborhood That Powers Itself

Västra Hamnen runs entirely on renewable energy. Solar panels cover rooftops. A biomass boiler burns organic waste from the region. The district processes rainwater locally through open canals that also serve as aesthetic features. Walk the wooden promenade that rings the neighborhood at sunset; the view across the strait to Copenhagen's towers, 20 minutes away by train, explains why property values here have climbed steadily since 2000.

The architecture here is deliberately varied. The Bo01 housing exhibition in 2001 established the template: multiple architects, strict environmental standards, and a mix of housing types. You will see row houses with south-facing solar glazing, apartment blocks with green roofs, and single-family homes built to passive-house standards. The Student Housing complex, designed by Tegnestuen Vandkunsten, clusters apartments around communal courtyards. The variety prevents the monotony that plagues many planned developments.

Address for the waterfront promenade: Sundspromenaden, Västra Hamnen. Open 24 hours. Free.

Emporia: When a Shopping Center Gets Serious Design Attention

South of the city center in the Hyllie district, the Emporia shopping center demonstrates that even commercial architecture receives serious attention in Malmö. The building's undulating glass and colored metal facade encloses an interior that includes a roof park with views toward the Turning Torso and the strait beyond. Address: Hyllie Boulevard 19, 216 32 Malmö. Open Monday–Friday 10:00–20:00, Saturday–Sunday 10:00–18:00.

The Old Town: Where Denmark Lost a City and Gained a Rival

Gamla Staden and the Layers Below

The contrast with Gamla Staden, the old town, is stark. This is where Malmö began, and the street pattern dates to the medieval period. Stortorget, the main square, holds the equestrian statue of King Karl X Gustav, who captured the city from Denmark in 1658. The brick Rathaus on the square's east side dates from 1546, heavily modified over centuries.

Walk south to Lilla Torg, a smaller square that has become the center of the restaurant district. The buildings here are genuinely old—many from the 16th and 17th centuries—though the current restaurant and bar scene is a more recent development. Malmö's food culture transformed alongside its physical architecture.

Malmöhus Castle (Malmöhusvägen 6, 211 18 Malmö), just west of the old town, is worth visiting less for the fortress itself and more for the museums housed within its walls. Sweden's oldest preserved Renaissance castle, it served as a Danish prison, a Swedish arsenal, and briefly housed Danish crown jewels captured as war booty. The Malmö Art Museum holds a substantial collection of Nordic art, including works from the Skåne region. Admission: 100 SEK for adults, 50 SEK for students and pensioners. Free for anyone under 20. Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10:00–17:00, Wednesday until 20:00. Closed Monday.

Möllevången: The Neighborhood That Tastes Like Everything

Möllevångstorget and the New Sweden

Take the bus or walk 15 minutes southeast to Möllevångstorget, commonly called Möllan. This square anchors the most diverse neighborhood in Sweden, a product of immigration patterns that have shifted the city's demographics dramatically since the 1980s. Over 40% of Malmö's residents were born abroad or have foreign-born parents.

The square hosts a daily market with produce stalls, secondhand goods, and food vendors reflecting the neighborhood's Middle Eastern, Balkan, and Latin American communities. On weekends, the flea market expands significantly. The surrounding streets hold some of the best food in the city: Syrian bakeries, Kurdish grill houses, and Vietnamese noodle shops that have nothing to do with Nordic cuisine and everything to do with contemporary Sweden.

This is where Malmö's reputation as a progressive city meets reality. The neighborhood has gentrified significantly in the past decade, with craft coffee shops and design studios opening alongside the established immigrant businesses. The tension is visible if you look for it: renovated apartment buildings with new balconies next to older housing stock, hipster bars near traditional tea houses.

Where to eat in Möllan:

Värnhems Falafel (Lundavägen 1, Malmö): Often called the best falafel in a city that claims to be the falafel capital of Europe. The house-made, tortilla-like bread sets it apart. Open practically 24/7. Price: Around 60–80 SEK for a full falafel wrap.
Lyran Matbar (Simrishamnsgatan 36A): A tiny food bar and gastropub in the corner of an unassuming brick building. Chef Jörgen Lloyd serves New Nordic, vegetable-focused, locally sourced food in a casual atmosphere. The wines are all natural. Price: Around 250–400 SEK per person for dinner. Hours: Vary; check current opening times before visiting.
Far i Hatten (Folkets Park, Malmö): Located in Sweden's oldest public park, this spot serves coffee and waffles during the day, then morphs into an outdoor biergarten, wine bar, and dance venue in the evening. Natural wines, excellent pizzas, ping pong tables, and DJs. Price: Around 150–250 SEK for food and drinks.

What to Eat: From Michelin Stars to Falafel Counters

The Fine Dining End

Malmö punches far above its weight in food. The crown jewel is Vollmers (one of the few two-Michelin-starred restaurants in the Nordic countries), but the city is full of exceptional eating at every price point.

Bastard / Ruths (Mäster Johansgatan 11): The restaurant formerly known as Bastard has become Ruths, an all-day bakery and eatery. Open daily from early morning until late night. Wood-fired pizzas, freshly baked pastries, and a deli shop. Price: Lunch around 150–200 SEK, dinner 300–500 SEK.
BISe (Norra Vallgatan 88): A restaurant and wine bar with a seasonally changing menu inspired by southern Europe. Build your own three-course menu or go à la carte. Boasts the most extensive natural wine cellar in Malmö. Price: Around 400–600 SEK for a full meal with wine.
Saltimporten Canteen (Grimsbygatan 24): A New Nordic lunch restaurant in an old salt importing warehouse. Chefs Ola Rudin and Sebastian Persson serve simple, affordable stews and soups made with high-quality, seasonal ingredients. Open weekdays only, 12:00–14:00. Price: Around 120–150 SEK for lunch. This is the best lunch deal in the city.

The Casual and the Essential

Malmö Saluhall (Gibraltargatan 6): A converted brick warehouse food hall with multiple vendors. Papi serves fresh pasta made to order. Falafel & Burgers does exactly what the name promises—try The French burger with local beef, gruyere, caramelized onions, and truffle mayo. Favvo Glass for freshly made ice cream. Hours: Generally 10:00–18:00, though individual vendors vary.
Mitt Möllan (another food hall): Try Pizza da Sud for Neapolitan sourdough pizza, Scandwich for sandwiches, or Little Vietnam for quick Vietnamese.
400Grader (Södra Skolgatan 33): By many accounts the best pizza in Malmö. Italian restaurant with multiple vegetarian options, excellent wines, and a lively atmosphere. Book ahead by emailing [email protected]. Price: Around 150–250 SEK per person.
Bullarbyn (Amiralsgatan 18): One of Sweden's best bakeries. Polish buns, Scandinavian cardamom and cinnamon buns, perfectly laminated French viennoiserie. The twice-baked almond croissant is the thing to get. Hours: Typically 07:00–18:00. Price: Pastries around 30–50 SEK.

Coffee and Fika

Nordic Brew Lab (Djäknegatan 9): One of the best places for hand-brewed or espresso-based coffee in Malmö. Imports coffee roasted across the Nordics. Calm, quiet, minimalist design. Price: Coffee around 40–60 SEK.
1998 (Davidshallsgatan 25B): A coffee shop and micro roastery with a 90s vibe—hip hop music, sports jerseys, neon lights, graffiti. The coffee is excellent. Price: Coffee around 40–55 SEK.
Leve (Östra Rönneholmsvägen 6): An entirely vegan bakery. On Fridays they sell their famous "Fredags munk"—filled doughnuts with seasonal flavors. Pre-order by calling ahead because they sell out. Price: Pastries around 35–50 SEK.

The Industrial Legacy: What Disappeared and What Remains

To understand what Malmö was, visit the areas that have not transformed. The Kockums shipyard, once the city's largest employer, closed in 1986. Parts of the site have been redeveloped, but you can still see the massive gantry crane that survives as a landmark. The crane is 138 meters tall, painted in the shipyard's distinctive blue, and now serves no industrial purpose beyond marking the city's industrial past.

The Western Harbor redevelopment absorbed some former industrial land, but other areas remain in transition. The waterfront south of the city center shows the scale of what disappeared: empty lots, leftover infrastructure, and the occasional new development that has not yet found its context.

The Disgusting Food Museum (Södra Förstadsgatan 2, 211 43 Malmö): A quirky cultural dive that explores the world's most divisive foods. You can even try some. Admission: Around 185 SEK. Hours: Check current schedule; typically open most days.

Ribersborg: The Cold Bath That Built a City's Character

No guide to Malmö is complete without Ribersborg Kallbadhus, the century-old cold bath and sauna house on a pier extending into the Öresund Strait. This is where Malmö's relationship with the water becomes tangible: naked Scandinavian bliss (gender-separated, no swimsuits) in a wooden house built over the sea. Admission: Approximately 80 SEK for an afternoon. Hours: Vary seasonally; longer during summer months.

The beach at Ribersborg Strand is pleasant on summer afternoons, but the real draw is the bathing house and the cycling path that runs along the coast. Malmö is a "5-minute bike city" with over 500 kilometers of dedicated paths. Rent a bike and ride from the city center to Västra Hamnen along the waterfront—you will pass wild rabbits, see the Turning Torso from multiple angles, and understand why this city is so pleasant to move through.

Practical Logistics

Getting There and Around

From Copenhagen: The Öresund train runs every 20 minutes from Copenhagen Central Station to Malmö Central. Journey time: 35–40 minutes. Cost: Approximately 110 DKK / 155 SEK one way. Children under 12 free. Passport required; ID checks are occasional but unpredictable.
Within Malmö: The city is compact. Most destinations are within walking distance of the central station, and the bus network covers what walking cannot. A single ticket costs 22 SEK. Use the Skånetrafiken app for seamless bus and train travel. The city is also extremely bike-friendly; use the Malmö by Bike app to access the bike share system.
Currency: Swedish krona (SEK). Most places take cards; cash is increasingly rare. A few market stalls may prefer Swish (Swedish mobile payment). Ensure your contactless payment or digital wallet is ready.

Where to Stay

Story Hotel (in a former customs house, 1902 brick building with harbor views): Boutique option in a converted industrial building near the station. Price: Approximately 1,200–1,800 SEK per night.
Budget: Hostels in the Möllan area or the university district. Price: Around 300–500 SEK for a dorm bed.
Mid-range: Standard business hotels near the station. Price: Around 800–1,200 SEK per night.

When to Visit

Best time: May to September offers 17 hours of daylight and mild 20°C weather. The waterfront neighborhoods are most pleasant in late spring through early autumn.
Malmö Festival (Malmöfestivalen): August. A week of free concerts, food stalls, and outdoor events that fills the streets. Scandinavia's biggest cultural festival, increasingly zero-waste. Book accommodation well in advance if visiting during this period.
Winter: Short days with limited daylight. The Möllan market operates year-round, though outdoor stalls reduce significantly. The architecture photography works in any season, but the waterfront is less inviting.

What to Skip

The Turning Torso interior tours: Limited, expensive, and books out months ahead. The exterior views from the waterfront promenade are sufficient for almost all visitors. Save your 195 SEK and your patience.
The shopping streets in the city center: They duplicate what exists in every Swedish city. If you want retail, go to Emporia for the architecture, or skip shopping entirely and eat instead.
The beach at Ribersborg on a crowded summer afternoon: Pleasant, but not distinctive enough to justify time if your interest is the city's architecture and urban development. Go early morning or evening, or skip it in favor of the cold bath house.
Generic guided walking tours: The city is compact and walkable. Pick up a bike, ride the waterfront, and let the neighborhoods speak for themselves. The stories are in the buildings, not in rehearsed scripts.
Day-tripping without staying overnight: Malmö rewards attention. Most visitors divert it to Copenhagen. Stay at least one night, eat dinner in Möllan, have breakfast at a proper bakery, and watch the city wake up.

The Real Achievement

What makes Malmö significant is not any individual building but the demonstration that post-industrial cities can rebuild without becoming museums or abandoning their working-class foundations. The integration of immigrant communities, the environmental standards in new construction, and the relationship with Copenhagen across the strait all represent experiments that other cities are watching.

The Turning Torso gets the photographs, but the real architecture is in the ordinary housing blocks that prove sustainable living can be attractive and affordable. Walk through Västra Hamnen on a weekday morning, watching residents bike to the train station or walk children to school along car-free paths. That is the city's actual achievement: not a tower that twists, but a city that functions differently than it did thirty years ago.

Bring a camera for the skyline, but stay for the neighborhoods that explain why Malmö became a destination worth photographing in the first place. Eat the falafel. Drink the natural wine. Ride the bike paths. And remember that the best thing about this city is not that it built a famous tower—it is that it learned to live differently after the shipyards closed.

Yuki Tanaka is a photographer and architecture writer who documents how cities rebuild themselves. He has photographed post-industrial waterfronts across Europe, from Rotterdam to Bilbao to Malmö, and believes the most interesting buildings are never the ones that make the cover of architecture magazines. He last visited Malmö in June 2026, riding a borrowed bike through Västra Hamnen at 6 AM, shooting the Turning Torso as the sun came up over Copenhagen.