Bunny Chows and Back Rooms: A Food Writer's Hunt for Durban's Real Curry Coast

By Sophie Brennan

I first came to Durban for the beaches, like everyone else. The Golden Mile, the warm Indian Ocean, the promenade joggers. But I stayed for the bunny chows. That first quarter-loaf, hollowed out and brimming with mutton curry, changed the way I think about food. Durban isn't a city that puts on airs. It's hot, humid, and occasionally chaotic. But the food here is honest, deeply rooted, and fiercely local. This is a city where a back-room curry counter can outcook a five-star restaurant, and where the best meal of your trip might cost you less than a cappuccino back home.

I've been back six times now, each trip chasing a new lead: a grandmother's secret masala recipe, a rooftop jazz bar hidden above a print shop, a stall at Victoria Street Market that sells chutney sharp enough to make your eyes water. This guide is the sum of those hunts. It won't give you a day-by-day itinerary. Instead, it maps the terrain by obsession: the bunny chow trail, the markets that feed the city, the streets where Durban eats after dark, and the quiet corners where the coffee is serious and the pastries are worth the drive. Come hungry. Leave changed.

The Bunny Chow Trail: Where Durban's Soul Lives

If you eat one thing in Durban, make it a bunny chow. The origin story is murky—some say it was created by Indian indentured laborers in the 1940s who needed a portable lunch, others claim it was born in a Grey Street cafe when a customer asked for a takeaway curry and the owner improvised by stuffing it into a hollowed loaf. Either way, it's pure Durban: a quarter, half, or full loaf of white bread with the inside scooped out and filled with curry. You eat it with your hands. No cutlery. No pretense.

Cane Cutters, Glenwood

Start at Cane Cutters, tucked away at 53-55 Helen Joseph Road in the leafy suburb of Glenwood. This is a family-run spot that locals protect like a secret. The quarter mutton bunny chow runs about R75 (roughly $4.20 USD), and the butter chicken version is around R69. The bread is fresh, the curry is slow-cooked, and the portions are generous enough to make you consider skipping your next meal. They close at 17:00, so this is a lunch spot. Get there early if you want the best selection—once the mutton sells out, it's gone. The atmosphere is no-frills: plastic tables, paper napkins, and a chalkboard menu that changes depending on what's good at the market that morning. The staff will remember you if you come back. They remembered me on my third visit.

The Britannia Hotel, Grey Street

For the historical anchor, head to the Britannia Hotel area on Grey Street (now Dr. Yusuf Dadoo Street). The surrounding blocks are the spiritual home of the bunny chow. Several small curry counters and back-room kitchens serve workers, students, and anyone who knows that the best food in Durban is often found behind an unmarked door. The Britannia itself has long been associated with the dish, and while the hotel has changed over the years, the surrounding area still hums with the smell of toasted masala and frying onions. Prices here are even lower than Glenwood—expect to pay R45-R65 for a filling quarter bunny. Most spots open by 07:00 and close by 15:00 or 16:00. Come for breakfast if you want to see the city waking up.

Patel's Vegetarian Refreshment Room, Central Durban

If you're vegetarian—or just want to understand how good vegetarian food can be—Patel's is essential. Located at 202 Dr. Yusuf Dadoo Street in the heart of central Durban, this institution has been serving meat-free bunny chows and sweetmeats since before most of us were born. Their hours are demanding: Monday to Friday 05:00-15:00, Saturday 05:00-14:00. Closed Sunday. Call ahead if you're unsure: 031 306 1774. The bean curry bunny chow is the star here, thick with turmeric and coriander, and the ladoos and burfi at the counter are worth the trip alone. This is a working-class spot. The floor is tiled, the fans are old, and the regulars eat in silence. Don't expect a chat. Expect to eat some of the most honest food in the city.

Hollywood Bets Bunny Bar, Springfield

For a modern, slightly irreverent take, the Hollywood Bets Bunny Bar at the Springfield Retail Centre is a newer player that has gained a cult following. It's attached to a betting shop, which tells you everything about the vibe. The bunnies are reliable, the prices are fair, and the crowd is a mix of office workers and punters taking a lunch break. It's not the most atmospheric spot on this list, but it's a reminder that bunny chows are not a museum piece in Durban—they're lunch, every day, for everyone.

The Markets: Where the City Shops and Eats

Victoria Street Market, Central Durban

Durban's markets are its living rooms. The Victoria Street Market, at the corner of Queen and Victoria Streets, is the most famous, and for good reason. This is a two-story bazaar with over 170 stalls selling everything from Zulu beadwork and hand-woven baskets to saffron, masala blends, and dried fish. The spice section on the upper floor is where I spend most of my time. Vendors sell their own curry powder mixes, often family recipes, and if you ask nicely, they'll tell you what goes into them. I always buy a bag of Durban masala to take home—it smells like this city.

The market is open Monday to Saturday 08:00-18:00, and Sunday 10:00-16:00. It's busiest on Saturday mornings, when families do their weekly shopping. The surrounding streets are also lined with street food vendors selling samoosas, roti rolls, and sugarcane juice. This is a safe area during daylight hours, but keep your belongings close and don't flash expensive gear. The real Durban lives here, and it's loud, colorful, and occasionally overwhelming in the best way.

Warwick Street Market and Surrounding Bazaars

Adjacent to Victoria Street, the Warwick Street area and the surrounding bazaars form one of the largest informal trading hubs in South Africa. This is where you find the cheapest produce, the freshest seafood, and the most direct interactions with Durban's working-class food culture. It's less touristy than Victoria Street Market, which means fewer souvenir stalls and more real commerce. If you want to see where the city's restaurants buy their spices, come here in the early morning. By 09:00, the wholesalers are already packing up.

Florida Road and the Northern Strip: Where Durban Dines Out

When Durban wants to dress up, it goes to Florida Road in Morningside. This is the city's culinary high street, a stretch of road lined with restaurants, bars, and cafes that cater to a more affluent crowd. But don't mistake it for pretentious. Durban's fine dining still has sand between its toes.

House of Curries, Florida Road

The House of Curries is a Florida Road institution, a sit-down restaurant that specializes in—you guessed it—curries. The menu is extensive, the portions are large, and the atmosphere is buzzy. It's a good place to try a Durban-style lamb curry or a chicken tikka masala without the hand-eating mess of a bunny chow. Prices are moderate; expect R120-R180 for a main course. They do a solid lunch trade, and the sidewalk tables are prime real estate on a warm evening.

9th Avenue Bistro, Musgrave

For something more refined, 9th Avenue Bistro in Musgrave is a long-standing favorite. This is Durban's answer to a modern European bistro, with a menu that changes seasonally and a wine list that punches above its weight. The setting is a converted house, so the dining rooms are intimate and slightly quirky. It's not cheap—mains run R250-R400—but for a special dinner, it's worth the splurge. Book ahead, especially on weekends.

Ile Maurice and Pizzetta, Windermere

Nearby in Windermere, Ile Maurice offers a taste of Mauritian and French-influenced cuisine, a nod to Durban's broader Indian Ocean connections. The seafood is excellent. Just around the corner, Pizzetta serves some of the best wood-fired pizza in the city. It's a casual, family-friendly spot that gets busy on Friday nights. Both are solid choices if you've hit your curry limit and need a palate cleanser.

The Dropkick Murphys and The Independent on Florida, Florida Road

For drinks, Florida Road has two reliable anchors. The Dropkick Murphys is an Irish pub with a rooftop deck and a surprisingly good selection of local craft beers. The Independent on Florida is a more polished cocktail bar and lounge, popular with the after-work crowd and the pre-club set. Both are safe, well-lit, and open late. Neither is reinventing the wheel, but they're excellent places to watch Durban's nightlife unfold.

The Waterfront and Beyond: Seafood, Jazz, and Ocean Views

The Cargo Hold, uShaka Marine World

The Point Waterfront, anchored by uShaka Marine World at 1 King Shaka Avenue, is where Durban's tourist and local worlds overlap. The park itself is a massive aquarium and water park, open daily 09:00-17:00. But the real culinary draw for me is the Cargo Hold, a restaurant built inside a replica of a 1920s cargo ship. The gimmick is that you're dining next to a massive shark tank—yes, real sharks swim past the glass while you eat your calamari. It's undeniably touristy, but the seafood is fresh, the setting is memorable, and the prices are fair for the experience. Go for lunch, when the light through the tank is best. Adult admission to uShaka is R187 (around $10.50 USD), with children's tickets at R139.

The Grill Jichana, Snell Parade

For a more grown-up waterfront meal, The Grill Jichana at 63 Snell Parade is a sophisticated steak and seafood restaurant with Indian Ocean views. The name is a Swahili word meaning "get moving," and the kitchen does exactly that. The prawn curry is excellent, and the wine list is one of the better ones in Durban. Call 031 362 1300 to book a window table. It's popular with business travelers and locals celebrating special occasions. Expect to pay R300-R500 per person for a full meal with wine.

Grand Cafe & Beach, Point Waterfront

For a sundowner with serious style, Grand Cafe & Beach on the Point Waterfront is hard to beat. It's a cocktail bar and restaurant built on a sandy stretch right at the water's edge, with a design that feels like a beach club in Ibiza or Tulum. The food is decent but secondary; come here for the atmosphere, the DJ sets, and the sunset views over the harbor. It's a see-and-be-seen spot, which means it can get crowded and expensive. A cocktail will set you back R80-R120.

The Chairman, Point

Hidden at 146 Mahatma Gandhi Road in the Point area, The Chairman is the most interesting bar in Durban. It's a jazz lounge and cocktail bar on the third floor of an otherwise unremarkable building, and finding the entrance is half the adventure. Once inside, you're in a dimly lit, velvet-draped room with live jazz most nights of the week. The cocktails are serious, the crowd is stylish, and the vibe is sultry. This is where Durban's creative class comes to drink. It's not cheap, and it's not always easy to get a seat, but it's the kind of place that makes you feel like you've discovered a secret. Which, in a way, you have.

Craft Beer, Coffee, and the Quiet Corners

Durban's beverage scene is smaller than Cape Town's or Johannesburg's, but it's growing. And the coffee culture, in particular, is genuinely excellent.

Robson's Real Beer, Point Waterfront

For craft beer, Robson's Real Beer at the Point Waterfront is the best local option. It's a no-nonsense brewpub with a rotating selection of house-made beers, from crisp lagers to hoppy IPAs. The food is pub grub—burgers, fish and chips, the occasional curry special—but the beer is the reason to come. It's a laid-back spot, popular with locals who are tired of the mainstream brewery options. If you're visiting during a Durban summer, their session ale is dangerously drinkable.

Humble Coffee, Windermere

For coffee, Humble Coffee at 222 Lilian Ngoyi Road in Windermere is the best in the city. It's a women-led specialty roastery and cafe that won the Coffee Magazine Award for Cafe of the Year in 2023. The new space is a large, airy building with a roastery, bakery, and full kitchen. They serve vegetarian and vegan brunch and lunch with an emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients. Hours are Monday to Saturday 07:00-16:00, Sunday 07:00-14:00. The flat white is flawless. The pastries are made in-house. And the atmosphere is the kind of calm, creative energy that makes you want to stay all morning.

Unity Brasserie, Berea

Unity Brasserie in the Berea neighborhood is another local favorite that bridges the gap between coffee and cocktails. It's a cafe by day and a wine bar by night, with a small, thoughtful menu that changes with the seasons. The outdoor patio is a lovely place to spend an afternoon, and the staff are knowledgeable about both their wine list and their coffee program. It's not on the tourist radar, which is exactly why you should go.

What to Skip

Not every famous spot in Durban lives up to the hype. Here are the ones I think you can pass on, or at least approach with lowered expectations.

The Golden Mile beachfront chain restaurants. The restaurants along the main beachfront promenade—think big-name seafood chains and tourist-oriented grills—are overpriced and underwhelming. The views are great, but the food is designed for volume, not quality. Walk the promenade for the scenery, then head inland for dinner.

The casino restaurants at Suncoast. Unless you're already there for the gambling or the cinema, the dining options at Suncoast are generic and expensive. You're paying for the location, not the kitchen.

The "fine dining" hotels in the CBD. Some of the older business hotels in central Durban still market themselves as culinary destinations, but their restaurants are living on past reputations. The buffets are tired, the a la carte menus are outdated, and the service can be indifferent. There are better ways to spend R400 per person.

Gounden's Restaurant on Umbilo Road. This is a controversial one, because Gounden's has a loyal following and a long history. But in my experience, the quality has become inconsistent, the prices have crept up, and the atmosphere is more nostalgic than exciting. If you're chasing a Durban curry memory, there are better options now.

Hollywood Bets Bunny Bar for dinner. It's a great lunch spot, but after 18:00 the energy drops and the food sits longer. Go for a midday bunny, not an evening meal.

Practical Logistics: Getting Around, Staying Safe, and Eating Well

Getting around. Durban is a driving city. Public transport exists—minibus taxis and a limited bus network—but it's confusing for visitors and not always safe. Uber and Bolt are reliable, affordable, and widely used. If you're doing a serious food crawl, consider renting a car for a day. Parking in Glenwood, Morningside, and the Point Waterfront is generally safe and well-marked. In central Durban, use a parking attendant and tip them R5-R10 when you leave.

Safety. Durban's food scene is spread across neighborhoods with very different vibes. Glenwood, Morningside, Windermere, and the Point Waterfront are generally safe during the day and early evening. Central Durban (around Victoria Street Market and Grey Street) is fine during market hours but can feel sketchy after dark. The Berea suburbs are leafy and quiet but have some rough edges. Use common sense: don't walk alone at night with your phone out, keep car doors locked, and ask your hotel or Airbnb host for neighborhood-specific advice.

When to visit. Durban is subtropical, which means hot, humid summers (December to February) and mild, dry winters (June to August). The city eats outdoors year-round, but summer evenings are especially magical for Florida Road dining. Winter is cooler and less crowded, and you'll have an easier time getting tables at popular restaurants. The Victoria Street Market is open all year, but it's at its liveliest on Saturday mornings.

Budget. Durban is cheap by international standards. A bunny chow lunch can cost under $5. A sit-down dinner at a mid-range restaurant runs $15-$25 per person. A cocktail at a nice bar is $5-$8. Even the splurge options—9th Avenue Bistro, The Grill Jichana—are half what you'd pay in Cape Town or Johannesburg. The exception is the waterfront tourist spots, where prices are inflated for the view.

Tipping. 10% is standard at restaurants. Some places add a service charge automatically, so check the bill. R5-R10 for parking attendants. R20 for a full day of good service at a market.

Language. English is widely spoken, but you'll hear Zulu, Hindi, and Afrikaans throughout the city. A few Zulu phrases go a long way: "Sawubona" (hello), "Ngiyabonga" (thank you), and "Isibusiso" (blessing), which locals often say before a meal.

The author. Sophie Brennan is a food writer and travel journalist based between London and Cape Town. She has eaten her way across six continents but keeps coming back to Durban for the masala. She believes the best food stories are found in back rooms, not fine dining rooms, and that bunny chows are a spiritual experience. Follow her on Instagram for real-time Durban updates, but don't expect her to share the exact location of her favorite secret curry counter. Some things are sacred.

Last updated: July 2026