Biarritz Culture & History Guide: From Whaling Village to Surfing Capital
The improbable story of how a Basque fishing town became the playground of emperors and surfers
There's something almost absurd about Biarritz's trajectory. This was a whaling town. A place where men in small boats harpooned massive mammals and rendered their blubber into lamp oil. And now? Now it's where Parisian fashion executives discuss quarterly earnings while getting surf lessons.
I keep coming back to this tension when I think about Biarritz. The town has reinvented itself so completely, so many times, that walking its streets feels like moving through layers of history that don't quite fit together. A Russian Orthodox church next to a surf shop. An imperial palace overlooking a beach where teenagers in wetsuits paddle out at dawn.
This guide is an attempt to make sense of those layers—to understand how Biarritz became Biarritz, and what remains of each era in the town you can visit today.
The Basque Foundation: Whaling, Fishing, and Identity
Before the Tourists (12th–18th Century)
Biarritz began as a Basque settlement, part of a culture that predates the Roman presence in the region by centuries. The Basques have lived in this corner of the Pyrenees-Atlantic coast for at least 3,000 years, speaking Euskara—a language with no known relation to any other on Earth.
The first written records mentioning Biarritz date to the 12th century, and they concern whales. The Bay of Biscay was prime hunting ground for right whales and other species that migrated through the channel between France and Spain. Biarritz fishermen developed a reputation for their whaling skills, and the town's economy revolved around the sea.
What you can see today:
Port des Pêcheurs (GPS: 43.4838, -1.5575)
- The only remaining physical evidence of Biarritz's fishing past
- The small harbor, tucked between cliffs, was the town's economic heart for centuries
- The colorful wooden huts ("crampottes") were built in the early 20th century for storing fishing gear and salting sardines
- Walk here at dawn to see the few remaining working fishermen mending nets
The whaling connection runs deeper than tourism brochures suggest. Edward III of England taxed each whale landed at Biarritz in the 14th century—six pounds per whale, a significant sum that indicates how established the industry already was. Basque whalers eventually ranged as far as Newfoundland and Labrador, establishing some of the earliest European settlements in North America.
By the late 18th century, whaling was in decline. The whales were overhunted, and the industry moved north. Biarritz was becoming a backwater—a small fishing village with a glorious past and an uncertain future.
The Imperial Transformation: Napoleon III and Eugénie (1854–1870)
The Honeymoon That Changed Everything
In 1854, Emperor Napoleon III of France and his new wife, Eugénie de Montijo, visited Biarritz on their honeymoon. The choice was personal: Eugénie's mother owned property nearby, and the young empress had summered in the region as a child. She loved the wild Atlantic coast, the dramatic cliffs, the sense of isolation from Parisian court life.
Napoleon III was captivated too—not just by the landscape, but by his wife's happiness. He decided to build her a summer residence. Within months of their visit, construction began on what would become Villa Eugénie.
The Hôtel du Palais (1 Avenue de l'Impératrice, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5589)
- Built 1854–1855 by architects Hippolyte Durand and Louis-Auguste Couvrechef
- Originally named Villa Eugénie, it was a private imperial residence
- Napoleon III purchased 14 plots of land to create a 50-acre estate
- The imperial couple spent every summer here until the fall of the Second Empire in 1870
The villa was designed in a hybrid style—part Second Empire grandeur, part seaside practicality. It had to impress visiting royalty (Queen Victoria came in 1858), but it also needed to withstand Atlantic storms. The result was a building that looks slightly out of place, like a Parisian palace that washed up on the beach.
The Court Follows
Where the emperor and empress went, others followed. Biarritz became the place to summer for European aristocracy. The Russian imperial family visited. The Prince of Wales (future Edward VII) became a regular. Queen Victoria wrote in her diary about the "wild and beautiful" coast.
This influx transformed Biarritz almost overnight. The town's population grew from about 2,000 in 1850 to over 10,000 by 1870. New neighborhoods were built to house the visitors. The railway arrived in 1864, making the journey from Paris possible in a day.
What you can see today:
The Imperial Route (download the "Imagine Biarritz" app for a self-guided tour)
Walk from the Hôtel du Palais along the coast to see the villas built for the imperial court
Villa Belza (GPS: 43.4834, -1.5656): Built in the 1880s, this neo-Gothic structure looks like something from a Tim Burton film. It was named after the original owner's wife, whose name possibly came from a Caribbean governess who saved the family during the French Revolution. The villa burned down at least once, was requisitioned by the Nazis in WWII, and is now private apartments.
Villa Eugénie (now Hôtel du Palais): The building itself is worth seeing even if you can't afford the €400+ nightly rates. The exterior is visible from the Grande Plage. The interior—if you can manage a drink at the bar or a meal at the restaurant—retains much of its imperial character. The Rotonde restaurant has 180-degree ocean views that the imperial couple once enjoyed.
The Belle Époque: Biarritz Becomes a Winter Resort (1870–1914)
From Summer to Year-Round
After the fall of Napoleon III in 1870, Villa Eugénie became a hotel—the Hôtel du Palais—and Biarritz needed to reinvent itself again. The solution came from an unexpected direction: winter tourism.
The fashion for wintering in mild climates was sweeping through European aristocracy. The French Riviera had Nice. The Basque coast would have Biarritz. The town promoted its mild winters, its therapeutic sea air, and its established reputation for luxury.
The Russian Connection
Russian aristocrats were particularly drawn to Biarritz. The close ties between the French and Russian imperial families (Napoleon III's wife was Spanish, but the connection persisted) meant that Biarritz felt familiar and safe.
Église Orthodoxe Russe de Biarritz (8 Avenue de l'Impératrice, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5567)
- Built 1890–1892
- Consecrated by the Russian Orthodox Church for the wintering community
- The blue onion domes are visible from much of the town center
- Interior features icons brought from Russia
- Open Tuesday–Saturday, 2:30 PM–6:00 PM; Sunday 10:00 AM–12:00 PM
- Free entry, donations appreciated
The church is more than a curiosity. It represents the cosmopolitan nature of Belle Époque Biarritz—a town where Russian princes, English lords, and Spanish nobility mingled in the casinos and on the beaches.
Architecture of an Era
The Belle Époque left Biarritz with an architectural heritage that defines the town's appearance today. Walking through the center, you'll see:
- Art Nouveau façades on buildings along Rue du Port-Vieux and Rue Gambetta
- Belle Époque cafés with their original interiors—high ceilings, mirrors, marble tables
- Villas in various revival styles—neo-Gothic, neo-Renaissance, colonial
Phare de Biarritz (Avenue de l'Impératrice, GPS: 43.4895, -1.5623)
- Built 1830–1834, before the imperial transformation, but emblematic of the era's engineering ambition
- 248 steps to the top
- €3 admission
- Open daily 10:00 AM–12:00 PM and 2:00 PM–6:00 PM (hours vary seasonally)
- Views extend to the Spanish coast on clear days
The lighthouse marks the transition between the sandy beaches of the Landes to the south and the rocky Basque coast to the north. It was built after numerous shipwrecks in the area, a reminder that the Atlantic was a working sea long before it became a playground.
The Interwar Years: Decline and Reinvention (1918–1939)
Lost Glory
World War I interrupted the Belle Époque flow of visitors. After the war, the world had changed. The Russian Revolution eliminated a major source of winter visitors. The European aristocracy was diminished, economically and literally. Biarritz struggled.
The town tried various reinventions. Gambling was legalized in 1920, and the casino at the Grande Plage became a centerpiece. The Hôtel du Palais hosted celebrities—Coco Chanel, Frank Sinatra, Ernest Hemingway—but the imperial magic was fading.
What you can see today:
Casino Municipal de Biarritz (1 Avenue Édouard VII, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5589)
- Built 1929 in Art Deco style
- The building dominates the northern end of the Grande Plage
- Even if you don't gamble, the architecture is worth appreciating
- The interior retains much of its 1920s character
Musée de la Mer (Plateau de l'Atalaye, GPS: 43.4834, -1.5657)
- Built 1933, another Art Deco landmark
- Originally focused on Biarritz's whaling and fishing history
- Now includes aquariums and seal exhibits
- €14.50 admission
- Open daily 9:30 AM–7:00 PM (summer), 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (winter)
The museum building itself is as interesting as the exhibits. The Art Deco style—geometric, streamlined, modern—represents Biarritz's attempt to move beyond its imperial past and embrace the 20th century.
The Surfing Revolution: 1956 and Everything After
How a Movie Changed Everything
In 1956, American film producer Dick Zanuck came to Biarritz to shoot "The Sun Also Rises," based on Ernest Hemingway's novel. Zanuck was a surfer, and he had a board shipped from California. He left before using it, but his screenwriter, Peter Viertel, stayed behind.
Viertel was married to actress Deborah Kerr. He was also a novice surfer. In the summer of 1956, he took Zanuck's board to the Côte des Basques and tried to surf. The locals watched, bemused. The sport looked impossible, ridiculous, possibly insane.
Viertel returned in 1957 with more boards and a mission: to teach the French to surf. His first students were three local teenagers—Georges Hennebutte, Jacky Rott, and Joël de Rosnay. They became the nucleus of what would be called "Les Tontons Surfeurs" (The Surfing Uncles)—the pioneers of European surfing.
Maison du Surf (Plage de la Côte des Basques, GPS: 43.4823, -1.5645)
- Free admission
- Located in the building where the Waikiki Surf Club was founded in 1959
- Exhibits on the history of surfing in Biarritz
- Surf library and archive
- Open Tuesday–Sunday, hours vary by season (typically 10:00 AM–6:00 PM)
The museum is small but essential for understanding modern Biarritz. The photographs from the late 1950s and early 1960s show young men in wool sweaters carrying enormous wooden boards down to the water. They look cold. They look happy.
The Surfing Culture Takes Root
By 1959, the Waikiki Surf Club had formed. In 1964, Joël de Rosnay created the Surf Club de France. The 1964 visit by the American Surfing Association—documented in photographs that show bemused French police watching long-haired Californians—marked Biarritz's arrival as a surfing destination.
The culture that developed was distinctively Basque-French. It borrowed the California aesthetic—boards, wetsuits, beach bonfires—but adapted it to local conditions. The water is cold. The waves are different. The food is better.
Plage de la Côte des Basques (GPS: 43.4823, -1.5645)
- The "cradle of French surfing"
- The same beach where Viertel first paddled out in 1956
- Today, surf schools line the beach
- The view from the cliff-top path shows why this spot was chosen: a long, consistent break, accessible from the shore
Rocher de la Vierge (GPS: 43.4839, -1.5656)
- The statue of the Virgin Mary was added in 1865, supposedly after fishermen survived a storm
- The metal bridge connecting it to land was built by Gustave Eiffel's company
- Today, it's a popular spot for watching surfers at Côte des Basques
- Free, open all hours
There's something fitting about this juxtaposition: a 19th-century religious monument, built by the same engineering firm that would create the most famous tower in Paris, now serving as a viewing platform for a sport invented by Polynesians and popularized by Americans in postwar France.
The Modern Era: Surfing, Tourism, and Identity (1960–Present)
Biarritz Today
Contemporary Biarritz is a synthesis of its histories. The imperial villas remain, many converted to hotels or apartments. The surf culture thrives, with over 20 surf schools operating in summer. The Basque identity persists—in the street signs (bilingual French and Euskara), in the food, in the annual festivals.
But there are tensions. Property prices have skyrocketed. The town's population is aging as young people are priced out. Tourism dominates the economy, creating seasonal employment and crowded summers.
What this means for visitors:
Biarritz is not a living museum. It's a real town with real problems. The history is present, but it's not preserved in amber. The surf shop on Rue de Madrid occupies a building that might have been a Belle Époque boutique. The pintxo bar near Les Halles serves the same function as the cafes that once fed imperial courtiers—it's just faster and louder now.
Key Historical Sites: A Practical Guide
The Imperial and Belle Époque Era
| Site | Address | GPS | Hours | Admission | Why Visit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hôtel du Palais | 1 Avenue de l'Impératrice | 43.4856, -1.5589 | Exterior always visible; interior for guests/diners only | Free to view, €€€ to enter | The building that started it all |
| Église Orthodoxe Russe | 8 Avenue de l'Impératrice | 43.4856, -1.5567 | Tue–Sat 14:30–18:00, Sun 10:00–12:00 | Free (donations) | Belle Époque cosmopolitanism |
| Phare de Biarritz | Avenue de l'Impératrice | 43.4895, -1.5623 | Daily 10:00–12:00, 14:00–18:00 | €3 | Engineering and views |
| Villa Belza | Visible from Rocher de la Vierge | 43.4834, -1.5656 | Exterior only (private apartments) | Free | Gothic Revival architecture |
| Casino Municipal | 1 Avenue Édouard VII | 43.4856, -1.5589 | Gaming rooms restricted; public areas accessible | Free to enter | Art Deco landmark |
The Surfing Heritage
| Site | Address | GPS | Hours | Admission | Why Visit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maison du Surf | Plage de la Côte des Basques | 43.4823, -1.5645 | Tue–Sun, hours vary | Free | Birthplace of European surfing |
| Plage de la Côte des Basques | Côte des Basques | 43.4823, -1.5645 | Always open | Free | The original surf spot |
| Surf shops on Rue de Madrid | Rue de Madrid | 43.4831, -1.5589 | Varies | Free to browse | Contemporary surf culture |
The Basque and Fishing Heritage
| Site | Address | GPS | Hours | Admission | Why Visit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Port des Pêcheurs | Port des Pêcheurs | 43.4838, -1.5575 | Always open | Free | Last remnant of fishing Biarritz |
| Les Halles | Rue des Halles | 43.4837, -1.5598 | Daily 07:30–14:00 | Free | Basque food culture |
| Musée de la Mer | Plateau de l'Atalaye | 43.4834, -1.5657 | Daily 09:30–19:00 (summer) | €14.50 | Whaling and maritime history |
Reading Biarritz: Understanding What You're Seeing
Architectural Styles
Second Empire (1850s–1870s): Look for the Hôtel du Palais and the villas along the coastal path. Characterized by mansard roofs, ornate detailing, and a general sense of imperial grandeur.
Belle Époque (1870s–1914): The Russian church is the most obvious example, but many buildings in the town center date from this period. Look for Art Nouveau flourishes, decorative ironwork, and elaborate facades.
Art Deco (1920s–1930s): The Casino and Musée de la Mer are the standout examples. Geometric patterns, streamlined forms, and a sense of modernity.
Basque Traditional: The Port des Pêcheurs retains some traditional elements—red and green paint, wooden construction—but much of "traditional" Biarritz is actually 19th-century construction in a regional style.
Cultural Markers
Bilingual Signs: Street signs in Biarritz are in French and Euskara. The Basque language was suppressed during the Franco era (1939–1975) but has seen a revival. It's now taught in schools and spoken by about 20% of the regional population.
The Ikurrina: The Basque flag (red, green, and white) flies alongside the French tricolor. You'll see it on balconies, in shop windows, at political demonstrations.
Pelota: The Basque national sport is still played in the region. The fronton (court) in Biarritz hosts matches, though they're less frequent than in smaller Basque towns.
The Uncomfortable Parts of Biarritz's History
Any honest history of Biarritz has to acknowledge what gets left out of the tourist brochures.
Whaling was brutal: The romanticized version of Biarritz's fishing heritage ignores the reality of whaling—dangerous, bloody work that decimated whale populations. The industry collapsed because there were no more whales to hunt, not because of any moral awakening.
The imperial era was built on exploitation: Napoleon III's France was a colonial power. The wealth that built the Villa Eugénie came from empire. The "exotic" elements that Eugénie loved—the Spanish influences, the colonial aesthetics—were made possible by French military and economic domination.
Franco's Biarritz: During the Spanish Civil War and the early Franco era, Biarritz was a refuge for Spanish Republicans and a playground for Franco's supporters. The town's cosmopolitanism was tested during this period. The Russian church, ironically, served a community that had fled Soviet communism—a different kind of political displacement than what Spanish refugees experienced.
Modern tourism's costs: Today's Biarritz struggles with the consequences of its own success. The surfing culture that seemed so democratic in the 1960s has become another luxury market. A custom surfboard costs €800. A lesson costs €50. The "soul" of early surfing—working-class kids finding freedom on the waves—persists, but it's increasingly hard to find.
I don't think these complications mean you shouldn't visit Biarritz, or that you can't enjoy it. But I do think understanding them makes the visit richer. The town isn't a theme park. It's a real place with a real, complicated history.
Practical Tips for History-Focused Visitors
Best Times to Visit
September: The Biarritz Surf Festival often includes historical exhibitions. The weather is still good, and the crowds have thinned.
October: The Salon du Chocolat and other food events connect to Basque culinary traditions. The light is beautiful for photography.
Spring: Fewer tourists mean easier access to sites. The Maison du Surf reopens after winter closure.
Recommended Reading
- "Biarritz: The Imperial City" by Jean-Baptiste Lillet (available at the tourist office, French only)
- "The History of Surfing in France" (exhibition catalog, Maison du Surf)
- Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises"—the novel that brought Peter Viertel to Biarritz
Guided Options
Free walking tours: Check the tourist office for schedules. The guides are knowledgeable about the imperial and Belle Époque eras.
The "Imagine Biarritz" app: Self-guided thematic tours, including the Imperial Route. Free download.
Private guides: €150–€250 for a half-day. Worth it if you're deeply interested in the architectural history.
Final Thoughts: Why Biarritz's History Matters
Biarritz is often dismissed as a playground for the wealthy—a place without "real" culture or history. This is wrong. The town's history is unusual, yes. It doesn't fit the standard narrative of French coastal towns (fishing village → artist colony → tourist destination). But that uniqueness is exactly what makes it interesting.
The whaling past, the imperial interlude, the surfing revolution—each layer is visible if you know where to look. The town has been reinvented so many times that it contains multitudes. You can have a terrible time in Biarritz if you only see the luxury boutiques and overpriced restaurants. But if you look deeper, if you walk the coastal path and imagine the whalers, if you stand at Côte des Basques and picture those first awkward attempts at surfing, you get something more valuable: a sense of how places change, how culture evolves, how history accumulates in unexpected ways.
Biarritz isn't just a beach town. It's a case study in reinvention. And that's worth understanding.
Quick Reference
Tourist Office
- 1 Square d'Ixelles, 64200 Biarritz
- GPS: 43.4831, -1.5592
- Open daily 9:00 AM–6:00 PM (summer), 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (winter)
Key Dates in Biarritz History
- 12th century: First written records of whaling
- 1854: Napoleon III and Eugénie visit; construction of Villa Eugénie begins
- 1864: Railway arrives
- 1892: Russian Orthodox Church consecrated
- 1920: Gambling legalized
- 1929: Casino Municipal opens
- 1933: Musée de la Mer built
- 1956: Peter Viertel surfs Côte des Basques for the first time
- 1959: Waikiki Surf Club founded
- 1964: Surf Club de France created
Sources
- Destination Biarritz official tourism board
- Maison du Surf archives
- "The Origins of Surfing in France" (Google Arts & Culture, Fondation du Patrimoine)
- "An Architectural Stroll Around Biarritz" (Google Arts & Culture, Fondation du Patrimoine)
- Wikipedia entries on Biarritz, Eugénie de Montijo, and Basque whaling history