Biarritz Unpacked: From Basque Whalers to Europe's First Surf Town

The improbable story of how a Basque fishing village became the playground of emperors, aristocrats, and the pioneers of European surfing

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There's something almost absurd about Biarritz's trajectory. This was a whaling town. A place where men in small boats harpooned massive mammals and rendered their blubber into lamp oil. And now? Now it's where Parisian fashion executives discuss quarterly earnings while getting surf lessons.

I keep coming back to this tension when I think about Biarritz. The town has reinvented itself so completely, so many times, that walking its streets feels like moving through layers of history that don't quite fit together. A Russian Orthodox church next to a surf shop. An imperial palace overlooking a beach where teenagers in wetsuits paddle out at dawn.

This guide is an attempt to make sense of those layers—to understand how Biarritz became Biarritz, and what remains of each era in the town you can visit today.

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The Basque Foundation: Whaling, Fishing, and Identity

Before the Tourists (12th–18th Century)

Biarritz began as a Basque settlement, part of a culture that predates the Roman presence in the region by centuries. The Basques have lived in this corner of the Pyrenees-Atlantic coast for at least 3,000 years, speaking Euskara—a language with no known relation to any other on Earth.

The first written records mentioning Biarritz date to the 12th century, and they concern whales. The Bay of Biscay was prime hunting ground for right whales and other species that migrated through the channel between France and Spain. Biarritz fishermen developed a reputation for their whaling skills, and the town's economy revolved around the sea.

What you can see today:

Port des Pêcheurs (GPS: 43.4838, -1.5575)

• The only remaining physical evidence of Biarritz's fishing past
• The small harbor, tucked between cliffs, was the town's economic heart for centuries
• The colorful wooden huts ("crampottes") were built in the early 20th century for storing fishing gear and salting sardines
• Walk here at dawn to see the few remaining working fishermen mending nets

The whaling connection runs deeper than tourism brochures suggest. Edward III of England taxed each whale landed at Biarritz in the 14th century—six pounds per whale, a significant sum that indicates how established the industry already was. Basque whalers eventually ranged as far as Newfoundland and Labrador, establishing some of the earliest European settlements in North America.

By the late 18th century, whaling was in decline. The whales were overhunted, and the industry moved north. Biarritz was becoming a backwater—a small fishing village with a glorious past and an uncertain future.

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The Imperial Transformation: Napoleon III and Eugénie (1854–1870)

The Honeymoon That Changed Everything

In 1854, Emperor Napoleon III of France and his new wife, Eugénie de Montijo, visited Biarritz on their honeymoon. The choice was personal: Eugénie's mother owned property nearby, and the young empress had summered in the region as a child. She loved the wild Atlantic coast, the dramatic cliffs, the sense of isolation from Parisian court life.

Napoleon III was captivated too—not just by the landscape, but by his wife's happiness. He decided to build her a summer residence. Within months of their visit, construction began on what would become Villa Eugénie.

The Hôtel du Palais (1 Avenue de l'Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5589)

• Built 1854–1855 by architects Hippolyte Durand and Louis-Auguste Couvrechef
• Originally named Villa Eugénie, it was a private imperial residence
• Napoleon III purchased 14 plots of land to create a 50-acre estate
• The imperial couple spent every summer here until the fall of the Second Empire in 1870
• Today: Luxury hotel with rooms from €400–€1,200/night. Non-guests can access the Rotonde restaurant (mains €45–€75) and the bar for a drink with imperial-era views

The villa was designed in a hybrid style—part Second Empire grandeur, part seaside practicality. It had to impress visiting royalty (Queen Victoria came in 1858), but it also needed to withstand Atlantic storms. The result was a building that looks slightly out of place, like a Parisian palace that washed up on the beach.

The Court Follows

Where the emperor and empress went, others followed. Biarritz became the place to summer for European aristocracy. The Russian imperial family visited. The Prince of Wales (future Edward VII) became a regular. Queen Victoria wrote in her diary about the "wild and beautiful" coast.

This influx transformed Biarritz almost overnight. The town's population grew from about 2,000 in 1850 to over 10,000 by 1870. New neighborhoods were built to house the visitors. The railway arrived in 1864, making the journey from Paris possible in a day.

What you can see today:

The Imperial Route (download the "Imagine Biarritz" app for a self-guided tour)

• Walk from the Hôtel du Palais along the coast to see the villas built for the imperial court

• Villa Belza (GPS: 43.4834, -1.5656): Built in the 1880s, this neo-Gothic structure looks like something from a Tim Burton film. It was named after the original owner's wife, whose name possibly came from a Caribbean governess who saved the family during the French Revolution. The villa burned down at least once, was requisitioned by the Nazis in WWII, and is now private apartments.

• Villa Eugénie (now Hôtel du Palais): The building itself is worth seeing even if you can't afford the nightly rates. The exterior is visible from the Grande Plage. The interior—if you can manage a drink at the bar or a meal at the restaurant—retains much of its imperial character. The Rotonde restaurant has 180-degree ocean views that the imperial couple once enjoyed.

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The Belle Époque: Biarritz Becomes a Winter Resort (1870–1914)

From Summer to Year-Round

After the fall of Napoleon III in 1870, Villa Eugénie became a hotel—the Hôtel du Palais—and Biarritz needed to reinvent itself again. The solution came from an unexpected direction: winter tourism.

The fashion for wintering in mild climates was sweeping through European aristocracy. The French Riviera had Nice. The Basque coast would have Biarritz. The town promoted its mild winters, its therapeutic sea air, and its established reputation for luxury.

The Russian Connection

Russian aristocrats were particularly drawn to Biarritz. The close ties between the French and Russian imperial families (Napoleon III's wife was Spanish, but the connection persisted) meant that Biarritz felt familiar and safe.

Église Orthodoxe Russe de Biarritz (8 Avenue de l'Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5567)

• Built 1890–1892
• Consecrated by the Russian Orthodox Church for the wintering community
• The blue onion domes are visible from much of the town center
• Interior features icons brought from Russia
• Open Tuesday–Saturday, 2:30 PM–6:00 PM; Sunday 10:00 AM–12:00 PM
• Free entry, donations appreciated

The church is more than a curiosity. It represents the cosmopolitan nature of Belle Époque Biarritz—a town where Russian princes, English lords, and Spanish nobility mingled in the casinos and on the beaches.

Architecture of an Era

The Belle Époque left Biarritz with an architectural heritage that defines the town's appearance today. Walking through the center, you'll see:

• Art Nouveau façades on buildings along Rue du Port-Vieux and Rue Gambetta
• Belle Époque cafés with their original interiors—high ceilings, mirrors, marble tables
• Villas in various revival styles—neo-Gothic, neo-Renaissance, colonial

Phare de Biarritz (Avenue de l'Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4895, -1.5623)

• Built 1830–1834, before the imperial transformation, but emblematic of the era's engineering ambition
• 248 steps to the top
• €3 admission
• Open daily 10:00 AM–12:00 PM and 2:00 PM–6:00 PM (hours vary seasonally)
• Views extend to the Spanish coast on clear days

The lighthouse marks the transition between the sandy beaches of the Landes to the south and the rocky Basque coast to the north. It was built after numerous shipwrecks in the area, a reminder that the Atlantic was a working sea long before it became a playground.

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The Interwar Years: Decline and Reinvention (1918–1939)

Lost Glory

World War I interrupted the Belle Époque flow of visitors. After the war, the world had changed. The Russian Revolution eliminated a major source of winter visitors. The European aristocracy was diminished, economically and literally. Biarritz struggled.

The town tried various reinventions. Gambling was legalized in 1920, and the casino at the Grande Plage became a centerpiece. The Hôtel du Palais hosted celebrities—Coco Chanel, Frank Sinatra, Ernest Hemingway—but the imperial magic was fading.

What you can see today:

Casino Municipal de Biarritz (1 Avenue Édouard VII, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4856, -1.5589)

• Built 1929 in Art Deco style
• The building dominates the northern end of the Grande Plage
• Even if you don't gamble, the architecture is worth appreciating
• The interior retains much of its 1920s character
• Slot machines from €0.01; table games from €5. Open daily 10:00 AM–3:00 AM

Musée de la Mer (Plateau de l'Atalaye, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4834, -1.5657)

• Built 1933, another Art Deco landmark
• Originally focused on Biarritz's whaling and fishing history
• Now includes aquariums and seal exhibits
• €14.50 admission
• Open daily 9:30 AM–7:00 PM (summer), 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (winter)

The museum building itself is as interesting as the exhibits. The Art Deco style—geometric, streamlined, modern—represents Biarritz's attempt to move beyond its imperial past and embrace the 20th century.

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The Surfing Revolution: 1956 and Everything After

How a Movie Changed Everything

In 1956, American film producer Dick Zanuck came to Biarritz to shoot "The Sun Also Rises," based on Ernest Hemingway's novel. Zanuck was a surfer, and he had a board shipped from California. He left before using it, but his screenwriter, Peter Viertel, stayed behind.

Viertel was married to actress Deborah Kerr. He was also a novice surfer. In the summer of 1956, he took Zanuck's board to the Côte des Basques and tried to surf. The locals watched, bemused. The sport looked impossible, ridiculous, possibly insane.

Viertel returned in 1957 with more boards and a mission: to teach the French to surf. His first students were three local teenagers—Georges Hennebutte, Jacky Rott, and Joël de Rosnay. They became the nucleus of what would be called "Les Tontons Surfeurs" (The Surfing Uncles)—the pioneers of European surfing.

Maison du Surf (Plage de la Côte des Basques, 64200 Biarritz, GPS: 43.4823, -1.5645)

• Free admission
• Located in the building where the Waikiki Surf Club was founded in 1959
• Exhibits on the history of surfing in Biarritz
• Surf library and archive
• Open Tuesday–Sunday, hours vary by season (typically 10:00 AM–6:00 PM)

The museum is small but essential for understanding modern Biarritz. The photographs from the late 1950s and early 1960s show young men in wool sweaters carrying enormous wooden boards down to the water. They look cold. They look happy.

The Surfing Culture Takes Root

By 1959, the Waikiki Surf Club had formed. In 1964, Joël de Rosnay created the Surf Club de France. The 1964 visit by the American Surfing Association—documented in photographs that show bemused French police watching long-haired Californians—marked Biarritz's arrival as a surfing destination.

The culture that developed was distinctively Basque-French. It borrowed the California aesthetic—boards, wetsuits, beach bonfires—but adapted it to local conditions. The water is cold. The waves are different. The food is better.

Plage de la Côte des Basques (GPS: 43.4823, -1.5645)

• The "cradle of French surfing"
• The same beach where Viertel first paddled out in 1956
• Today, surf schools line the beach
• The view from the cliff-top path shows why this spot was chosen: a long, consistent break, accessible from the shore
• Surf lessons: €45–€60 for 1.5 hours. Board rental: €20–€30/half-day

Rocher de la Vierge (GPS: 43.4839, -1.5656)

• The statue of the Virgin Mary was added in 1865, supposedly after fishermen survived a storm
• The metal bridge connecting it to land was built by Gustave Eiffel's company
• Today, it's a popular spot for watching surfers at Côte des Basques
• Free, open all hours

There's something fitting about this juxtaposition: a 19th-century religious monument, built by the same engineering firm that would create the most famous tower in Paris, now serving as a viewing platform for a sport invented by Polynesians and popularized by Americans in postwar France.

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The Modern Era: Surfing, Tourism, and Identity (1960–Present)

Biarritz Today

Contemporary Biarritz is a synthesis of its histories. The imperial villas remain, many converted to hotels or apartments. The surf culture thrives, with over 20 surf schools operating in summer. The Basque identity persists—in the street signs (bilingual French and Euskara), in the food, in the annual festivals.

But there are tensions. Property prices have skyrocketed. The town's population is aging as young people are priced out. Tourism dominates the economy, creating seasonal employment and crowded summers.

What this means for visitors:

Biarritz is not a living museum. It's a real town with real problems. The history is present, but it's not preserved in amber. The surf shop on Rue de Madrid occupies a building that might have been a Belle Époque boutique. The pintxo bar near Les Halles serves the same function as the cafes that once fed imperial courtiers—it's just faster and louder now.

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What to Skip in Biarritz

The Overrated Tourist Traps

The Grande Plage in August: Yes, it's the famous central beach. Yes, it has the Belle Époque backdrop. But in peak summer, it's shoulder-to-shoulder with sunbathers, the sand is packed, and you'll pay €30+ for a beach chair. Walk 10 minutes to Plage de la Côte des Basques or Port-Vieux for a fraction of the crowds and double the atmosphere.

The Casino for actual gambling: The Art Deco building is stunning. The gaming rooms? Standard European slots and tables with mediocre odds. If you're not already a gambler, don't start here. Admire the exterior, take a photo, and spend your €20 on a proper Basque dinner instead.

Les Halles after 11 AM: The covered market is excellent—just go early. By late morning, the tour buses arrive and the aisles clog with visitors photographing jamón. Arrive by 9:30 AM to shop alongside locals and chat with vendors who actually have time to talk.

Surf lessons in July from the cheapest operator: Not all surf schools are equal. The €35 "bargain" lessons often pack 15+ students per instructor. Book with established schools like Jo Moraiz (founded 1966) or Waikiki Surf Club. You'll pay €50–€60, but you get proper instruction, quality boards, and insurance.

The "Basque Heritage" gift shops on Rue de Madrid: Most sell imported keychains and mass-produced textiles. For authentic Basque crafts, head to Lartigue 1910 (27 Rue des Halles) for traditional espadrilles made locally since 1910, or Espadrilles Etchenika in nearby Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle for hand-stitched versions.

The Expensive Mistakes

Dinner at the Hôtel du Palais without checking prices: The Rotonde is exceptional, but a three-course dinner with wine easily hits €200+ per person. If your budget doesn't stretch that far, have a coffee or aperitif at the bar (€15–€20) and enjoy the same imperial views without the credit card trauma.

Parking near the Grande Plage: Street parking runs €3–€4/hour with a 2-hour limit. The underground garages charge €15–€20/day. Better option: park at the Gare de Biarritz area (€5/day) and walk 15 minutes, or use the free shuttle buses in summer.

Buying surf gear as a souvenir: Unless you actually plan to surf, that €80 Biarritz-branded hoodie will sit in your closet. The local surf shops are for surfers. Buy a bottle of Espelette pepper or a block of Ossau-Iraty cheese instead—lighter luggage, better memories.

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Key Historical Sites: A Practical Guide

The Imperial and Belle Époque Era

Site	Address	GPS	Hours	Admission	Why Visit
Hôtel du Palais	1 Avenue de l'Impératrice	43.4856, -1.5589	Exterior always visible; interior for guests/diners only	Free to view, €€€ to enter	The building that started it all
Église Orthodoxe Russe	8 Avenue de l'Impératrice	43.4856, -1.5567	Tue–Sat 14:30–18:00, Sun 10:00–12:00	Free (donations)	Belle Époque cosmopolitanism
Phare de Biarritz	Avenue de l'Impératrice	43.4895, -1.5623	Daily 10:00–12:00, 14:00–18:00	€3	Engineering and views
Villa Belza	Visible from Rocher de la Vierge	43.4834, -1.5656	Exterior only (private apartments)	Free	Gothic Revival architecture
Casino Municipal	1 Avenue Édouard VII	43.4856, -1.5589	Gaming rooms restricted; public areas accessible	Free to enter	Art Deco landmark

The Surfing Heritage

Site	Address	GPS	Hours	Admission	Why Visit
Maison du Surf	Plage de la Côte des Basques	43.4823, -1.5645	Tue–Sun, hours vary	Free	Birthplace of European surfing
Plage de la Côte des Basques	Côte des Basques	43.4823, -1.5645	Always open	Free	The original surf spot
Surf shops on Rue de Madrid	Rue de Madrid	43.4831, -1.5589	Varies	Free to browse	Contemporary surf culture

The Basque and Fishing Heritage

Site	Address	GPS	Hours	Admission	Why Visit
Port des Pêcheurs	Port des Pêcheurs	43.4838, -1.5575	Always open	Free	Last remnant of fishing Biarritz
Les Halles	Rue des Halles	43.4837, -1.5598	Daily 07:30–14:00	Free	Basque food culture
Musée de la Mer	Plateau de l'Atalaye	43.4834, -1.5657	Daily 09:30–19:00 (summer)	€14.50	Whaling and maritime history

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Reading Biarritz: Understanding What You're Seeing

Architectural Styles

Second Empire (1850s–1870s): Look for the Hôtel du Palais and the villas along the coastal path. Characterized by mansard roofs, ornate detailing, and a general sense of imperial grandeur.

Belle Époque (1870s–1914): The Russian church is the most obvious example, but many buildings in the town center date from this period. Look for Art Nouveau flourishes, decorative ironwork, and elaborate facades.

Art Deco (1920s–1930s): The Casino and Musée de la Mer are the standout examples. Geometric patterns, streamlined forms, and a sense of modernity.

Basque Traditional: The Port des Pêcheurs retains some traditional elements—red and green paint, wooden construction—but much of "traditional" Biarritz is actually 19th-century construction in a regional style.

Cultural Markers

Bilingual Signs: Street signs in Biarritz are in French and Euskara. The Basque language was suppressed during the Franco era (1939–1975) but has seen a revival. It's now taught in schools and spoken by about 20% of the regional population.

The Ikurrina: The Basque flag (red, green, and white) flies alongside the French tricolor. You'll see it on balconies, in shop windows, at political demonstrations.

Pelota: The Basque national sport is still played in the region. The fronton (court) in Biarritz hosts matches, though they're less frequent than in smaller Basque towns.

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The Uncomfortable Parts of Biarritz's History

Any honest history of Biarritz has to acknowledge what gets left out of the tourist brochures.

Whaling was brutal: The romanticized version of Biarritz's fishing heritage ignores the reality of whaling—dangerous, bloody work that decimated whale populations. The industry collapsed because there were no more whales to hunt, not because of any moral awakening.

The imperial era was built on exploitation: Napoleon III's France was a colonial power. The wealth that built the Villa Eugénie came from empire. The "exotic" elements that Eugénie loved—the Spanish influences, the colonial aesthetics—were made possible by French military and economic domination.

Franco's Biarritz: During the Spanish Civil War and the early Franco era, Biarritz was a refuge for Spanish Republicans and a playground for Franco's supporters. The town's cosmopolitanism was tested during this period. The Russian church, ironically, served a community that had fled Soviet communism—a different kind of political displacement than what Spanish refugees experienced.

Modern tourism's costs: Today's Biarritz struggles with the consequences of its own success. The surfing culture that seemed so democratic in the 1960s has become another luxury market. A custom surfboard costs €800. A lesson costs €50. The "soul" of early surfing—working-class kids finding freedom on the waves—persists, but it's increasingly hard to find.

I don't think these complications mean you shouldn't visit Biarritz, or that you can't enjoy it. But I do think understanding them makes the visit richer. The town isn't a theme park. It's a real place with a real, complicated history.

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Practical Tips for History-Focused Visitors

Best Times to Visit

September: The Biarritz Surf Festival often includes historical exhibitions. The weather is still good, and the crowds have thinned. Hotel rates drop 20–30% from August peaks.

October: The Salon du Chocolat and other food events connect to Basque culinary traditions. The light is beautiful for photography. Temperatures hover around 18°C (64°F).

Spring (April–May): Fewer tourists mean easier access to sites. The Maison du Surf reopens after winter closure. Wildflowers bloom along the coastal path.

Getting Around

Walking: Biarritz is compact. Most historical sites are within a 20-minute walk of each other. The coastal path from the Grande Plage to Côte des Basques takes 30 minutes and delivers the best views in town.

Bus: The Chronoplus network connects Biarritz with Bayonne and Anglet. A single ticket costs €1.30. Day pass: €3.00.

Bike: BAIK bike share has stations across town. €1 for 30 minutes, €5 for a day pass. The coastal bike lane is flat and scenic.

Parking: As noted above, avoid the beachfront garages. The Parking de la Négresse (€8/day) is a 12-minute walk from the center and rarely fills.

Budget Breakdown (Per Day)

Style	Accommodation	Food	Activities	Total
Budget	€60–€80 (hostel/Airbnb)	€25–€35 (markets, cafés)	€15–€25 (museums, lighthouse)	€100–€140
Mid-Range	€120–€180 (3-star hotel)	€50–€70 (restaurants + market)	€30–€50 (surf lesson, museums)	€200–€300
Luxury	€400+ (Hôtel du Palais)	€100+ (fine dining)	€100+ (private guide, spa)	€600+

Recommended Reading

• "Biarritz: The Imperial City" by Jean-Baptiste Lillet (available at the tourist office, French only) — €18
• "The History of Surfing in France" (exhibition catalog, Maison du Surf) — €12
• Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises"—the novel that brought Peter Viertel to Biarritz

Guided Options

Free walking tours: Check the tourist office for schedules. The guides are knowledgeable about the imperial and Belle Époque eras. Tip-based; budget €10–€15.

The "Imagine Biarritz" app: Self-guided thematic tours, including the Imperial Route. Free download.

Private guides: €150–€250 for a half-day. Worth it if you're deeply interested in the architectural history. Book through the tourist office for licensed guides.

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About the Author: Finn O'Sullivan

I'm the one who reads the plaque. The one who walks past the famous landmark to find the back alley where the real story happened. I've spent fifteen years chasing down local histories in places that don't make the front page of guidebooks— fishing villages that became surf towns, whaling ports that became imperial playgrounds, Basque harbors that kept their secrets through centuries of reinvention.

Biarritz fascinates me because it refuses to be one thing. Every layer of its history—the Basque fishermen, the imperial courtiers, the Hollywood screenwriters with their surfboards—left something behind. My job is to help you see those layers, not as a museum curator would, but as someone who understands that a place only makes sense when you know what came before.

I don't do fluff. I don't do generic. What I do is context—the kind that turns a pretty beach into a story, and a holiday into something you actually remember.

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Final Thoughts: Why Biarritz's History Matters

Biarritz is often dismissed as a playground for the wealthy—a place without "real" culture or history. This is wrong. The town's history is unusual, yes. It doesn't fit the standard narrative of French coastal towns (fishing village → artist colony → tourist destination). But that uniqueness is exactly what makes it interesting.

The whaling past, the imperial interlude, the surfing revolution—each layer is visible if you know where to look. The town has been reinvented so many times that it contains multitudes. You can have a terrible time in Biarritz if you only see the luxury boutiques and overpriced restaurants. But if you look deeper, if you walk the coastal path and imagine the whalers, if you stand at Côte des Basques and picture those first awkward attempts at surfing, you get something more valuable: a sense of how places change, how culture evolves, how history accumulates in unexpected ways.

Biarritz isn't just a beach town. It's a case study in reinvention. And that's worth understanding.

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Quick Reference

Tourist Office

• 1 Square d'Ixelles, 64200 Biarritz
• GPS: 43.4831, -1.5592
• Open daily 9:00 AM–6:00 PM (summer), 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (winter)
• Phone: +33 5 59 22 37 00

Emergency Numbers

• Police: 17
• Medical Emergency: 15
• Fire/Rescue: 18
• European Emergency: 112

Key Dates in Biarritz History

• 12th century: First written records of whaling
• 1854: Napoleon III and Eugénie visit; construction of Villa Eugénie begins
• 1864: Railway arrives
• 1892: Russian Orthodox Church consecrated
• 1920: Gambling legalized
• 1929: Casino Municipal opens
• 1933: Musée de la Mer built
• 1956: Peter Viertel surfs Côte des Basques for the first time
• 1959: Waikiki Surf Club founded
• 1964: Surf Club de France created

Sources

• Destination Biarritz official tourism board
• Maison du Surf archives
• "The Origins of Surfing in France" (Google Arts & Culture, Fondation du Patrimoine)
• "An Architectural Stroll Around Biarritz" (Google Arts & Culture, Fondation du Patrimoine)
• Wikipedia entries on Biarritz, Eugénie de Montijo, and Basque whaling history