The Riviera Beyond the Red Carpet: Where Matisse Cut Paper, Monks Make Wine, and the Sea Actually Glitters

About This Guide

I'm Elena Vasquez. I've spent fifteen summers tracing the Côte d'Azur from Menton's lemon groves to Saint-Tropez's pine-scented hills, and I still flinch when I hear it called a beach destination. The Riviera is a personality—arrogant, beautiful, slightly ridiculous, and impossible to forget. This guide covers the activities that matter: the walks, the museums, the meals, and the moments when you understand why Matisse never left, why Chagall painted biblical scenes here, and why a 5th-century monk thought this coastline was the right place to spend a lifetime in silence.

The Riviera rewards curiosity. The best experiences require a little effort—a hike past a locked gate, a museum tucked in a residential neighborhood, a restaurant without an English menu. This guide assumes you want more than a selfie with a blue chair.

What the Riviera Actually Is

The French Riviera is not one place. It is a 200-kilometer stretch of coastline where three distinct personalities overlap:

Nice and the eastern towns (Villefranche, Beaulieu, Menton, Monaco) carry Italian DNA. Nice was Savoyard until 1860, and the ochre buildings, the baroque churches, the narrow alleys of Vieille Ville all speak Piedmontese. The Niçois still argue about whether they're French or something else entirely.

Antibes and the Cap d'Antibes represent the Riviera's working soul. Fishing boats still leave the port at dawn. Picasso painted here because the light was honest, not because the parties were good.

Cannes, Saint-Tropez, and the western capes embody the mythology—yachts, beach clubs, film festivals, Brigitte Bardot. The mythology is real, but it's only one layer. Beneath it are coastal trails, medieval villages, and the Estérel mountains rising from the sea like red teeth.

Understanding this geography matters because it shapes what you do. You don't come to the Riviera to tick boxes. You come to find your own combination of these three personalities.

The Old Towns: Where the Riviera Still Breathes

Vieille Ville, Nice

What it is: A maze of alleys dating to the 15th century, when Nice belonged to the House of Savoy. The ochre walls, the baroque churches, the morning markets—this is the Riviera's soul before the tourists arrived.

How to do it right: Start at Place Rossetti at 8:00 AM, when the cathedral bells are ringing and the cafés are just opening. The Cathedral of Saint-Reparata dominates the square with its 18th-century bell tower. Walk north on Rue Droite, one of the oldest streets, past Chez Palmyre (5 Rue Droite, open since 1926, lunch only, €25–35 for three courses). Turn left at Place Saint-François for the fish market (Tuesday–Sunday, 6:00 AM–1:00 PM), where the Niçois buy their morning catch.

The market: Cours Saleya operates as a flower market Tuesday–Sunday (6:00 AM–5:30 PM, shorter hours in winter). On Mondays it becomes an antique fair. The produce here is local—zucchini flowers in spring, white peaches in July, cardoons in winter. Stand 17, operated by the Rivière family since 1952, sells the best socca in the market. Eat it warm, standing up, with a dusting of black pepper.

Don't miss: Rue de la Préfecture for the Palais Lascaris (15 Rue Droite, free entry, Wednesday–Monday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM), a baroque palace with a pharmacy museum and a ceiling painted in 1701. The building is easy to miss—the entrance is a narrow doorway between two shops.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

What it is: A deep bay 20 minutes east of Nice, with a sandy beach (rare on this coast) and a medieval old town that climbs the hillside in stepped alleys.

How to do it right: Take the TER train from Nice Ville (€2.50, 10 minutes) and walk down to the port. The Chapelle Saint-Pierre (1 Rue Saint-Élisabeth, €3, Tuesday–Sunday 10:00 AM–12:30 PM and 2:30–6:00 PM) contains Jean Cocteau's fishing-themed frescoes, painted in 1956. Cocteau lived in Villefranche on and off for 15 years and called this chapel his "spiritual home." The frescoes show fishermen hauling nets in blues and golds—simple, direct, unmistakably Cocteau.

The Rue Obscure: A 13th-century covered street running parallel to the waterfront, built as a refuge during pirate raids. It's 130 meters long, arched, and barely wide enough for two people. The atmosphere is medieval, slightly eerie, and entirely unexpected on the glamorous Riviera.

Beach strategy: Plage des Marinières is the sandy stretch near the train station—free, public, and popular with families. For quieter swimming, walk around the citadel to Plage de la Darse, a small gravel cove with clear water and views of the colorful fishing boats.

Antibes Old Town and Ramparts

What it is: A 16th-century fortress town surrounded by medieval ramparts, with a working fishing port and a market that smells of fennel and anchovies.

How to do it right: Enter through the Porte de l'Orme, the original gate on the western side. The market (Cours Masséna, Tuesday–Sunday 6:00 AM–1:00 PM, Monday until 1:00 PM for antiques and crafts) is where the Antibois buy their vegetables. Stand at the center sells tapenade so good you'll eat it with a spoon.

The ramparts: Walk the full circuit (about 45 minutes) for views of the sea on one side and the town's terracotta roofs on the other. The Bastion Saint-André contains a small museum of local history (free, Wednesday–Monday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM). The walls are most beautiful at sunset, when the light turns the stone amber.

Menton: The Last Town Before Italy

What it is: The warmest town on the French coast, protected by mountains that create a microclimate. Menton has been Italian, Monegasque, and French, and it still feels slightly separate from the rest of the Riviera.

How to do it right: The Jean Cocteau Museum—Séverin Wunderman Collection (2 Quai de Monléon, €7, Wednesday–Monday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM, closed Tuesdays) occupies a waterfront building designed by Rudy Ricciotti. It holds 1,800 works—paintings, drawings, ceramics, tapestries, and the line engravings for Cocteau's film Beauty and the Beast. The artist spent his final years in Menton and is buried in the town cemetery.

The old town: Climb the steps from the port to the Basilica of Saint-Michel-Archange (17th-century baroque, open daily 9:00 AM–6:00 PM, free). The cemetery above the church contains elaborate tombs with views of the sea. Cocteau's grave is simple—just his name and a drawn profile.

The Lemon Festival (Fête du Citron): Every February, the Biovès Gardens host sculptures made from citrus fruits. It's touristy but genuinely impressive—80 tons of oranges and lemons arranged into 10-meter-high structures. Admission €13, late February.

The Artists' Riviera: Museums That Matter

Musée Matisse, Nice

Address: 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, 06000 Nice Hours: Wednesday–Monday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM, closed Tuesdays. Free entry. Getting there: Bus 15, 17, 20, 22, or 25 to Arènes de Cimiez (€1.70).

Matisse lived in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954, and this museum holds one of the world's largest collections of his work. The setting is a 17th-century villa in an olive grove that dates to Roman times. The collection spans his entire career: early Fauvist paintings, the odalisques of the Nice period, the cut-outs of his final years.

What to look for: The cut-outs. Matisse invented this technique in the late 1940s when illness confined him to a wheelchair. He painted paper with gouache, cut shapes with scissors, and arranged them into compositions that are deceptively simple. Blue Nude IV (1952) hangs here—just a figure, just blue, just paper, and yet it contains everything Matisse understood about the human body.

The garden: Don't skip the olive grove. Matisse walked here daily. The Roman amphitheater next door hosts the Nice Jazz Festival in July.

Musée Marc Chagall

Address: Avenue Dr Ménard, 06000 Nice Hours: Wednesday–Monday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (until 7:00 PM May–October), closed Tuesdays. €10, includes same-day entry to Musée Matisse.

Built specifically to house Chagall's "Biblical Message" series—17 large paintings depicting scenes from Genesis, Exodus, and the Song of Songs. Chagall was involved in every detail of the museum's design, including the stained glass windows in the concert hall and the mosaic in the pond. The artist is buried in the garden, beneath a simple stone.

What to look for: The white room. Five paintings from the Song of Songs hang here in a space designed to evoke the infinite. Chagall painted these in his 90s, still in love with color, still obsessed with love itself. The effect is spiritual without being religious.

Musée Picasso, Antibes

Address: Château Grimaldi, Place Mariejol, 06600 Antibes Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (until 8:00 PM July–August), closed Mondays. €8, free first Sunday of month.

Picasso stayed here for six months in 1946, immediately after the war. The Château Grimaldi, a medieval fortress overlooking the sea, became the first museum dedicated to Picasso when he donated works he created during his stay—paintings, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries. The collection is small (about 250 pieces) but intensely personal. You can see the rooms where he worked.

The terrace: The views over the yacht harbor are spectacular, but the real magic is imagining Picasso here in 1946, painting Ulysses and the Sirens while Europe rebuilt itself. He was 64, in love with Françoise Gilot, and producing some of his most joyful work.

Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Address: 623 Chemin des Gardettes, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence Hours: Monday–Sunday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (July–September until 7:00 PM). €16. Getting there: Bus 400 from Nice (40 minutes, €1.70).

A 20-minute drive into the hills above Nice, the Fondation Maeght is the most important modern art museum in southern France. Marguerite and Aimé Maeght founded it in 1964 to display their collection and to create a space where art, architecture, and nature coexist. The building is by José-Luis Sert; the courtyard contains a mosaic chapel by Pierre Tal-Coat, a fountain by Pol Bury, and a sculpture garden with works by Miró, Calder, Giacometti, and Chagall.

What to look for: Giacometti's courtyard. The tall, thin figures seem to move as you walk around them. The architect designed the space specifically for these sculptures—the proportions, the light, the relationship to the Provençal landscape all belong to them.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence: The village itself is worth an hour of wandering. La Colombe d'Or (1 Place du Général de Gaulle, lunch €45–65, dinner €70–90) has been an artists' haunt since the 1920s—Picasso, Braque, Léger, and Matisse all paid for meals with paintings. The collection still hangs in the dining room.

Between Mountain and Sea: The Active Riviera

Coastal Hiking: The Sentier du Littoral

The Riviera's best-kept secret is its network of coastal trails. The Sentier du Littoral connects towns along the entire coastline, and the best sections offer views you can't get from a car or train.

Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer: 2 hours, easy. Start at Port Lympia in Nice and follow the path around Cap de Nice. The trail climbs above the sea, passing the villa where Keith Richards wrote Exile on Main St., then descends to Villefranche's deep bay. Bring water—no shade.

Cap d'Antibes: 1.5 hours, easy. A flat loop around the cape passing secluded coves and views of the Alps on clear days. Start at Plage de la Salis in Antibes. The path passes the Villa Eilenroc (gardens open Thursday and Friday 3:00–6:00 PM, free), a 19th-century mansion surrounded by a Mediterranean garden.

Cannes to Théoule-sur-Mer: 4 hours, moderate. The most dramatic section, with red-rock cliffs and views of the Lérins Islands. The Estérel mountains rise directly from the sea here—volcanic rock, deep green pines, turquoise water. Start at Port Pierre Canto in Cannes. Some sections close in summer due to fire risk; check conditions at the Antibes tourist office.

Practical: Wear sturdy shoes, not sandals. Carry 1.5 liters of water per person. The trails are well-marked but have no facilities. Start early (8:00 AM) in summer.

The Lérins Islands: Silence and History

Ferry departure: Quai Laubeuf, Cannes Old Port. Trans Côte d'Azur operates hourly 9:00 AM–5:00 PM in summer, reduced schedule in winter. €14.50 round-trip to Île Sainte-Marguerite; €16.50 round-trip to Île Saint-Honorat.

Île Sainte-Marguerite: The larger island, covered in eucalyptus and pine. The Fort Royal (€6, daily 10:00 AM–5:45 PM, shorter hours winter) imprisoned the Man in the Iron Mask from 1687 to 1698. His identity remains unknown—possibly the Italian count Ercole Mattioli, possibly the valet Eustache Dauger, possibly someone else entirely. The Musée de la Mer occupies the lower level with artifacts from Roman shipwrecks. Restaurant La Guérite (lunch only, €35–50) serves grilled fish on a terrace above the water.

Île Saint-Honorat: The smaller island, entirely occupied by Cistercian monks who have lived here since the 5th century. The working monastery produces wine and liqueurs sold in the shop near the dock (open daily 9:30 AM–6:00 PM). Visitors can tour the medieval ruins, the fortified monastery, and the modern abbey church. The island has a contemplative atmosphere that feels deliberately out of time. No bikes, no cars, no overnight visitors. Silence is requested.

Swimming: Beyond the Beach Clubs

The Riviera's beaches are mostly pebble or gravel, but the water is clean and the settings are spectacular.

Public beaches (free): Plage de la Bocca and Plage du Midi in Cannes; Plage de la Gravette in Antibes (small, sandy, below the ramparts); Plage de Passable in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (gravel, views of Monaco); the beaches at Villefranche-sur-Mer and Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

Paloma Beach, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: A small cove on the eastern side of the cape, accessible by foot from the port (20 minutes) or by car (parking €5/hour). The beach is public but has a restaurant (lunch €40–60) that rents loungers (€25/day). The water is calm, the views are of Beaulieu and the mountains, and the atmosphere is quieter than anything on the main coast.

Beach etiquette: Topless sunbathing is common but not universal. The law prohibits it in areas where it might "disturb public order," but in practice, no one enforces this on beaches. Private beach clubs rent loungers for €20–50/day depending on location and season.

The Grand Illusion: Monaco, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez

Monaco: What You're Actually Looking At

Monaco is 2 square kilometers of mythology. The Rock (Monaco-Ville) is the old town, clinging to a cliff above the sea. The Prince's Palace (€10, State Apartments open April–October 10:00 AM–6:00 PM, closed in winter) dominates the skyline. The changing of the guard happens daily at 11:55 AM—arrive by 11:30 for a good view.

The Oceanographic Museum: Founded by Prince Albert I in 1910, this building perches on the cliff edge like a fortress. The aquarium is excellent (sharks, reef fish, Mediterranean species); the rooftop terrace has the best views in Monaco. €18, daily 10:00 AM–6:00 PM (July–August until 8:00 PM).

The Casino: Place du Casino, 98000 Monaco. Slots from 10:00 AM; gaming rooms from 2:00 PM. Entry €17 (includes €10 gaming credit); passport required. Smart casual dress code; jacket required for private rooms after 8:00 PM. Even if you don't gamble, the Belle Époque atrium with its 28 onyx columns is worth seeing.

The truth about Monaco: It's expensive, compressed, and slightly absurd. But it's also safe, clean, and architecturally fascinating. The Jardin Exotique (€10, daily 9:00 AM–6:00 PM) contains 7,000 succulents on a cliffside with views of the Mediterranean. The Musée Océanographique has a legitimate scientific mission. And the old town, away from the casino crowds, feels almost normal.

Cannes: The Festival and the Reality

Cannes has two personalities: the Film Festival city (May) and the everyday Riviera town. The Palais des Festivals anchors La Croisette, the 2-kilometer waterfront boulevard lined with luxury hotels and beach clubs. The handprints of movie stars are set in the pavement near the Palais—look for Meryl Streep, Angelina Jolie, and Pedro Almodóvar.

La Croisette beach clubs: Day passes run €25–50 for a lounger and umbrella. The public beaches at Plage du Midi and Plage de la Bocca (western end) are free alternatives with the same water and fewer amenities.

Marché Forville: The daily market (Tuesday–Sunday 7:00 AM–1:00 PM) behind the port sells Provençal produce, flowers, and prepared foods. Forville is where the people who work in Cannes' hotels and restaurants buy their own groceries. It's unglamorous, authentic, and essential.

Saint-Tropez: The Myth and the Port

Saint-Tropez became famous in 1956 when Brigitte Bardot filmed And God Created Woman here. The Old Port still operates as a working harbor, though the fishing boats now share space with some of the world's largest yachts. The Citadel (€6, daily 10:00 AM–6:30 PM) houses a maritime museum and offers panoramic views of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez.

Place des Lices: The market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings (8:00 AM–1:00 PM) is one of the best on the coast. Local producers sell goat cheese, tapenade, Provençal fabrics, and the anise-flavored biscuits called navettes. The square's plane trees were planted in 1812.

Pampelonne Beach: 5 kilometers southeast of town, lined with legendary beach clubs. Club 55 (founded 1955, lunch €60–80) maintains a rustic-chic atmosphere that attracts celebrities and locals. Nikki Beach offers a party atmosphere with DJs. Tahiti Beach (founded 1946, €30–40 for lounger) is the oldest and most relaxed. Each club has its own personality—choose based on whether you want tranquility or scene. The beach itself is public; you don't need to rent a lounger.

Getting there without a yacht: Bus 7601 from Saint-Raphaël Valescure station (€3, 45 minutes, hourly in summer). The road follows the coast through pine forests. Alternatively, drive and park at Place des Lices (€2.50/hour, often full in summer) or use the parking at Gassin and take the shuttle.

The Taste of the Riviera

Socca: The Soul of Nice

Socca is a thin chickpea-flour pancake cooked in a wood-fired oven until the edges char and the center stays creamy. It's the definitive Niçois street food, and it only exists here.

Where to get it: Chez Pipo (2 Rue Bavastro, Tuesday–Sunday 11:00 AM–2:30 PM and 6:00–10:00 PM, Monday 6:00–10:00 PM). Operating since 1923, this is the reference point. The socca arrives hot, blistered, and slightly burned at the edges. Eat it with black pepper and a glass of cold rosé. €3.50 per portion.

Alternative: Chez Theresa in Cours Saleya market (Tuesday–Sunday, mornings only). Her socca is thinner, crisper, and eaten standing at a communal table. She has been making it for 40 years.

Salade Niçoise: The Controversy

A true salade niçoise contains tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, Niçoise olives, capers, green beans, and tuna—never cooked potatoes, never lettuce, never fresh tuna. The Niçois are militant about this.

Where to get it: La Merenda (4 Rue de la Terrasse, Monday–Friday lunch and dinner, no reservations, €18–25). A tiny restaurant with no phone, no credit cards, and some of the most authentic Niçois cooking in the city. The owner, Dominique Le Stanc, was a Michelin-starred chef who left to cook the food of his grandmother.

Bouillabaisse: The Marseille Classic, Available Here

Real bouillabaisse is a commitment—€55–80 per person, served in two courses (the broth with rouille and croutons, then the fish). It's not a casual lunch.

Where to get it: Restaurant Bacon ( Boulevard de Bacon, Antibes, lunch and dinner Wednesday–Sunday, €65–85 for the full bouillabaisse). Founded in 1950, this restaurant on the Cap d'Antibes specializes in fish soup and bouillabaisse. The terrace overlooks the sea. Reservations essential: +33 4 93 61 50 22.

The Wines of Bellet

Nice has its own appellation—AOC Bellet—produced on hillsides above the city since Roman times. The wines are rare (only 47 hectares), expensive, and genuinely interesting: Rolle (Vermentino) whites with herbal notes, Braquet and Fuella reds that are light and peppery.

Where to taste: Domaine de la Source (436 Chemin de Saquier, 06200 Nice, visits by appointment +33 4 93 29 75 61). The Château de Crémat (Chemin de Crémat, 06200 Nice, daily 10:00 AM–6:00 PM, €12 tasting) has a vineyard and a château with stained glass by Niçois artists.

Rosé: The Riviera's Fuel

The correct wine for lunch on the Riviera is a cold Provençal rosé. Look for:

• Château Minuty (Côtes de Provence): Light, crisp, the standard of Saint-Tropez beach clubs.
• Whispering Angel (Caves d'Esclans): Popular, reliable, slightly more body.
• Domaines Ott (Bandol and Côtes de Provence): The reference point for serious Provençal rosé, made by a family that has been producing wine since 1896.

Prices in restaurants: €25–40 for a good bottle, €6–10 by the glass.

What to Skip

1. The hop-on, hop-off bus in Nice. It's slow, expensive (€22), and the commentary is generic. The tram (€1.70) and your own feet cover the same ground more authentically.

2. The Champs-Élysées equivalent. In Cannes, the western end of La Croisette near the casino is all chain stores and overpriced cafés. In Nice, Avenue Jean Médecin is a shopping mall in street form. Skip both.

3. Monaco during the Grand Prix (late May). Unless you have a ticket, the principality becomes impassable. Hotels triple their rates. The harbor is packed with spectators. Come in June instead.

4. The big beach clubs in July and August before 11:00 AM or after 4:00 PM. You're paying €50 for a lounger when the sun is weak and the staff is distracted. Arrive at 10:00 AM, claim your spot, and make a day of it.

5. Saint-Tropez as a day trip in summer. The traffic is catastrophic (2–3 hours from Nice), parking is impossible, and you'll see nothing but crowds. Stay overnight, or visit in spring or autumn.

6. Restaurants with multilingual menus and photographs of the food. These exist to serve tourists who won't return. The best places have handwritten menus in French, no pictures, and no English translations. Point and smile.

7. Èze at midday in summer. The village is beautiful but tiny. At noon in August, it's packed with tour buses. Come at 9:00 AM or after 5:00 PM. The Jardin d'Èze (€7, daily 9:00 AM–6:30 PM) is an exotic garden with sculptures and views that justify the climb.

Practical Logistics

Getting There

By air: Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) is the main gateway. Direct flights from most European capitals. The tram (Line 2, €1.70, 30 minutes) connects the airport to the city center. Taxis to central Nice cost €32–50 depending on traffic; Uber is often cheaper.

By train: The TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon takes 5.5–6 hours (€35–€120 depending on booking time). The train station in Nice is central; from there, the TER coastal train serves all towns from Cannes to Ventimiglia (Italy).

By car: Driving offers flexibility but parking is expensive (€20–40/day in Nice or Cannes) and summer traffic is intense. The three Corniches—Basse, Moyenne, and Grande—offer scenic alternatives to the highway.

Getting Around

TER train: The coastal train runs every 20–30 minutes from Cannes to Ventimiglia. It's fast, reliable, and the views between Nice and Monaco are spectacular. Fares: Nice–Cannes €5–7, Nice–Monaco €4–5, Nice–Menton €6–8.

Bus: Lignes d'Azur operates the regional network. Single ticket €1.70 (valid 74 minutes including transfers); day pass €7. Bus 100 from Nice to Monaco follows the Basse Corniche with views of Villefranche and the coast.

Car rental: Only necessary if you're visiting hill villages (Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Tourrettes-sur-Loup) or the Estérel mountains. Expect €40–70/day in summer. Parking in Nice old town is nearly impossible; use the Parking Cours Saleya (€2.50/hour) or park at the port.

When to Visit

April–June: Ideal. Warm but not hot, flowers in bloom, museums and restaurants fully open. The Nice Jazz Festival is in July, but May and June have the best balance of weather and crowds.

July–August: Hot, crowded, expensive. Beach clubs and restaurants book up months in advance. The sea is warm (24–26°C). If you must come in summer, book restaurants ahead and start your days at 7:00 AM.

September–October: Warm seas, harvest season, thinning crowds. Excellent for food and wine. The grape harvest in Bellet happens in September.

November–March: Mild weather (rarely below 10°C), empty beaches, lower prices. Some attractions have reduced hours. The Lemon Festival in Menton is in February. Christmas in Nice is atmospheric and uncrowded.

Budget Framework

• Budget: €100–150/day. Stay in Nice or Antibes, use public transport, eat socca and market picnics, visit free museums (Musée Matisse, first Sundays).
• Mid-range: €200–350/day. Mix of restaurants and casual meals, occasional beach club, TER train day trips, comfortable hotel.
• Luxury: €500+/day. Beach clubs daily, Michelin dining, yacht charter (€300–800/day skippered), luxury hotel.

Safety

The Riviera is generally safe, but watch for:

• Pickpockets on the Promenade des Anglais and in Nice Old Town, especially in summer.
• Bag theft on beaches—never leave valuables unattended.
• Scams near the port in Nice (fake gold rings, petition signers).
• Traffic in Monaco—pedestrians have right of way, but drivers are aggressive.

Emergency numbers: 112 (general emergency), 15 (medical), 17 (police), 18 (fire). The main hospital in Nice is Hôpital Saint-Roch (5 Rue Pierre Devoluy, 06000 Nice).

About the Author

Elena Vasquez is a food writer and cultural historian based between Barcelona and Marseille. She has spent fifteen summers on the French Riviera, initially as a graduate student researching Matisse's cut-outs, later as a contributor to food and travel publications. She believes the best way to understand a place is through its markets, its museums, and the stories locals tell when they think no one is transcribing. She still gets lost in Nice's Vieille Ville, which she considers a feature, not a bug.