Avignon on a Shoestring: How James Wright Survived the City of Popes for €37 a Day

I wasn't supposed to fall for Avignon. I was supposed to pass through it—one night, a cheap bed, a quick look at the bridge from that nursery rhyme, then onward to Marseille. But Avignon has a way of ambushing you. One minute you're counting euros in a hostel kitchen; the next you're drinking rosé on a 700-year-old wall, watching the Rhône turn gold at sunset, wondering why anyone bothers with the Côte d'Azur when this exists inland for half the price.

Avignon isn't glamorous. It's better than that. It's a city of cobblestones and cardinals, of wine bars where the owner remembers your name, of medieval streets that smell like fresh bread and stubborn history. For fourteen years, the Pope lived here—not in Rome, but in this Provençal fortress town where the mistral wind whips through ancient alleys and the local bakeries still open before dawn.

This isn't a guide for people who want to tick boxes. It's for travelers who want to eat well, sleep cheap, and understand why a city the size of a postage stamp once ruled Western Christendom. I've done Avignon four times now, always on a tight budget, and I've learned where the value hides.

What Your Money Gets You

Avignon's historic center is compact enough to cross in twenty minutes, but dense enough to spend a week exploring. The key is knowing what things actually cost so you don't get blindsided.

Barebones traveler: €45–55/day

Bed in a decent hostel dorm: €22–28
Two meals from markets or cheap eateries: €14–18
One paid attraction or a couple of glasses of wine: €8–12
Everything else on foot: free

Comfortable budget: €75–95/day

Private room in a family-run hotel or Airbnb: €50–65
One sit-down meal, one market picnic: €22–28
A museum, a wine bar, maybe a bike rental: €15–20
Local bus if you're lazy: €1.40 per ride

Living large (relatively): €140+/day

Boutique hotel inside the ramparts: €90–120
Long lunches with wine: €40–60
Private tours, taxi rides, fancy cocktails: €30–50

The sweet spot is the middle tier. Avignon rewards travelers who spend just enough to live inside the walls, eat at places with tablecloths once a day, and otherwise let the city entertain them for free.

Where to Sleep Without Emptying Your Wallet

Pop' Hostel — 8 Rue de la Croix, 84000 Avignon Dorm beds €22–28, privates €55–65. This is where I stayed on my first trip, and I keep coming back. The building is modern and clean, the kitchen actually has sharp knives (a rarity in hostels), and the rooftop terrace gives you a view of the Palais des Papes that some €200 hotels would kill for. The staff organizes free walking tours and knows which bars have happy hour when. Book two months ahead for July—Festival d'Avignon turns every bed in the city to gold.

Auberge de Jeunesse HI Avignon — 20 Rue du Bois de la Blanche, 84000 Avignon €25–32 for a dorm bed. A twenty-minute walk from the center, which sounds like a drawback until you realize you're sleeping in a garden, under trees, with birds that don't sound like traffic. The self-catering kitchen is enormous. The walk back at midnight through the quiet streets is actually pleasant. This is the move if you're staying three or more nights and want to cook proper meals.

Hôtel Boquier — 6 Rue du Portail Boquier, 84000 Avignon €50–70/night including breakfast. A family-run hotel in a sixteenth-century building with a courtyard garden where you eat croissants under a lemon tree. The rooms are small but the sheets are clean, the WiFi works, and the owner's dog, a fat beagle named Maurice, sleeps in the lobby. I've sent at least a dozen people here, and nobody has complained yet.

B&B Hôtel Avignon Centre — 1 Rue du Grand Four, 84000 Avignon €55–75/night. Chain hotel, but a good one—modern, quiet, and a ten-minute walk to the Palais des Papes. Free parking if you rented a car (though you don't need one here). The rooms are standardized in that comforting way where you know the shower will work and the bed won't squeak.

Ibis Budget Avignon Centre — 8 Rue de la Croix, 84000 Avignon €50–65/night. Clean, basic, inside the historic center. If you're the kind of traveler who only uses a hotel to sleep and store a bag, this is your spot. No charm, but no surprises either.

How to Eat Like a Local on a Backpacker's Budget

Les Halles d'Avignon — 18 Place Pie, 84000 Avignon Open Tuesday through Sunday, 6:00 AM to 2:00 PM. Closed Monday. This is the engine room of Avignon gastronomy, and it's the first place I go every time I arrive. Forty stalls under a modern glass canopy, selling everything from goat cheese that tastes like the hills it came from to saucisson so good it should be illegal. The secret weapon here isn't just the shopping—it's the free cooking demonstration every Saturday at 11:00 AM, where a local chef cooks whatever looks best that morning and gives you tastes.

My standard market haul for a picnic:

Baguette from Maison Violette: €1.20
Chèvre frais with herbs: €3.50
Jambon de pays, 100g: €4.50
A small punnet of cherry tomatoes: €2.00
Bottle of Côtes du Rhône from the stall near the back: €6.00 Total: €17.20, feeds two people for lunch.

L'Epicerie — 10 Rue des Lices Lunch specials €12–15. A tiny place with mismatched chairs and a chalkboard menu that changes daily. They do a tartine with roasted vegetables and goat cheese that I still think about sometimes. The owner, a woman named Colette, speaks exactly enough English to take your order and exactly enough French to correct your pronunciation of "croquant." Sit outside if you can.

Le Petit Gourmand — 23 Rue Saint-Michel Sandwiches and quiches €6–9. Homemade pastries €2–4. No seating to speak of—this is a grab-and-go operation, but the quiche Lorraine is legitimately great, and the éclairs are filled to order. I come here when I need to eat quickly before a museum.

Crêperie Le Tournesol — 9 Rue des Teinturiers Savory galettes €8–12, sweet crêpes €4–7. On the prettiest street in Avignon, next to a canal with working water wheels from the 1500s. The buckwheat galettes are crisp and properly savory. Get the complète with ham, egg, and cheese, and drink a cider.

La Compagnie Des Chats — 19 Rue des Lices A cat café that collaborates with the local animal shelter. Coffee is €3, lunch dishes €10–14, and the cats are adoptable. It sounds gimmicky but the coffee is actually good, the cats are friendly, and the proceeds go to a decent cause. I found this place on my second trip and now I make a point to stop in.

The Best Things in Avignon Are Free

Walk the ramparts. Avignon's defensive walls stretch 4.3 kilometers around the old city, built in the fourteenth century when the Pope needed protection from—well, from pretty much everyone. You can't walk the entire circuit (some sections are closed), but the parts open to the public, especially near Porte Saint-Lazare and Porte de l'Oulle, give you views over rooftops and the Rhône Valley that feel stolen. Early morning, when the mistral is up and the city is quiet, this is the best walk in Avignon.

Rue des Teinturiers. This narrow street runs along a canal that once powered the textile mills of medieval Avignon. Four massive water wheels still turn, slowly, hypnotically. The street is lined with small cafés, bookshops, and the Maison du IV de Chiffre, built in 1493 and the oldest surviving house in the city. You can walk it in ten minutes or linger for two hours.

Place de l'Horloge. The central square, anchored by the opera house and city hall. It's touristy, yes, but it's also where Avignon happens. Street performers in summer, elderly men playing pétanque on the edges, the café terraces filling up at 6:00 PM for the apéro hour. During Festival d'Avignon in July, this square becomes a stage—performances are free and often better than the ticketed shows.

Jardin du Rocher des Doms. Open daily, 7:30 AM to 8:00 PM in summer, 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM in winter. Free. A garden on a rocky outcrop above the Rhône, built by the brother of a Pope who wanted somewhere to pray with a view. Now it's full of locals reading books, tourists catching their breath, and a duck pond that somehow never smells bad. The panorama from the terrace shows the entire valley—the river, the bridge, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon across the water, and on clear days, Mont Ventoux in the distance.

Île de la Barthelasse. The largest river island in France, accessible by a free ferry from the quay near Pont d'Avignon. Seven hundred hectares of farmland, walking paths, and riverside beaches in summer. Bring a bicycle if you can—the flat trails are perfect for a lazy afternoon. The view back to Avignon's skyline is the best angle for photographs.

Cinéma Utopia. Tucked behind the Palais des Papes, this arthouse cinema is in a former chapel and shows films in four rooms. The attached café-bar serves wine and beer, and the courtyard at night, strung with lights, fills with locals. Some films are in English. Even if you don't see a movie, come for the atmosphere and the sense that you've found something most tourists miss.

Worth Paying For (But Do It Smart)

Pont d'Avignon (Pont Saint-Bénézet) — €5, or combined with Palais des Papes Open daily, 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM in summer, 9:30 AM to 5:45 PM in winter. Yes, it's a bridge that stops in the middle of the river. Yes, the nursery rhyme is why most people come. But standing on it, feeling the mistral off the water, you understand why it mattered—this was once the only crossing for thirty miles, and the chapel on its midpoint was where pilgrims prayed before entering the holy city. The audio guide is included and actually informative.

Musée du Petit Palais — €6, free for under-18s Wednesday through Monday, 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM. Closed Tuesday. Italian religious art in a building that was once a cardinal's palace. The Botticelli Madonna is the headline, but the real pleasure is the courtyard—quiet, shaded, a place to sit and remember you're in the south of France.

Collection Lambert — €7, free first Sunday of month Tuesday through Sunday, 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM. 5 Rue Violette. Contemporary art in a beautiful old mansion. The exhibitions rotate, but the building itself—a hôtel particulier with a walled garden—is worth the entry. The first Sunday free entry is a hack worth remembering.

Palais des Papes — €14 (or €17 with gardens) This is the big one, the reason Avignon exists on maps. The largest Gothic palace ever built, constructed when the Papacy fled Rome for political safety. The interior is cavernous and mostly empty—this was a fortress as much as a residence—but the scale is staggering. The view from the top terrace is the best in the city. If your budget allows one splurge, make it this.

The Pass Avignon — €24 for 24 hours, €30 for 48 hours Includes entry to Palais des Papes, Pont d'Avignon, and nine other monuments. Also discounts at shops and restaurants. Available at the tourist office at 41 Cours Jean Jaurès. Do the math: if you're visiting the palace (€14) and the bridge (€5) and one museum (€6–7), the pass pays for itself.

Getting Around (Spoiler: You Mostly Walk)

Avignon's historic center is small enough that you can walk from any hotel inside the walls to any attraction in under fifteen minutes. This is the city's gift to budget travelers—you don't need transport passes, taxis, or even bikes for the core experience.

Orizo buses — €1.40 for a single ticket, €11.50 for a ten-trip card, €4.00 for a day pass. Useful mainly for getting to and from the TGV station, which is outside the center. Lines A, B, C, and D serve the tourist areas.

Vélopop' bike share — First 30 minutes free, then €1/hour, €5/day. Fifteen stations around the city. Good for reaching the TGV station or exploring the island.

Provence Bike — 26 Rue de la République, €15–25/day. Proper bikes for proper rides. I rent one whenever I'm staying more than two days and want to explore the vineyards or Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Day Trips That Don't Cost the Earth

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon — free ferry from the quay, then walking Across the Rhône, this town was where the cardinals built their palaces when they couldn't fit inside Avignon's walls. Fort Saint-André (€7.50, free first Sunday) is a thirteenth-century fortress with ramparts you can walk. The Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction, a former Carthusian monastery, now hosts a cultural center and a café in the cloisters. The view back to Avignon from Tour Philippe le Bel is better than any view from within the city.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape — €3.50 by bus line 22 Twenty minutes. The most famous wine village in the Rhône Valley, and yes, it can be touristy. But many cellars still offer free tastings, and walking through the vineyards with the ruined château above you costs nothing. Buy one good bottle from a small producer instead of paying for a formal tasting tour.

Tavel — 30 minutes by bus, less touristy than Châteauneuf Famous for rosé, not overrun. Small family wineries where the owner pours for you and tells you about the vintage while their dog sleeps under the table. This is where I go when I want wine without the crowds.

Arles — €8–12 by train, twenty minutes Van Gogh's town, Roman amphitheater, a different energy—grittier, more working-class, less polished than Avignon. Good for a contrast day. Free walking tours operate from the tourist office near the arena.

When to Come (and When Prices Change)

July is Festival d'Avignon month, when the city triples in population and accommodation prices jump 30–50%. The energy is electric—street performances, late-night bars, the entire city a stage—but you need to book beds three months ahead and accept that cheap eats will be harder to find.

April to May and September to October are the sweet spots. Accommodation drops 15–25%, the weather is warm without being punishing, and the locals have time to talk to you. The markets overflow with spring asparagus or autumn grapes.

November to March is the secret season. Hotel prices fall 30–40%, restaurants are quieter, the Palais des Papes is still open, and the mistral wind blowing through empty streets makes the medieval architecture feel properly ancient. I came in February once and had a €55 room inside the ramparts that would cost €120 in June.

What to Skip (James's Honest Notes)

The formal restaurants on Place de l'Horloge. The terraces look inviting, the menus are in six languages, and the prices are 40% higher than identical food on a side street. Walk two minutes in any direction and eat better for less.

The guided bus tours. Avignon is too small for this. The historic center is pedestrian-only for much of it, and a bus can't take you anywhere meaningful that your feet can't. Spend the €25 on a good meal instead.

The Palais des Papes digital tablet experience. The palace is already €14, and the iPad tour slows you down, distracts you from the architecture, and assumes you can't read a plaque. Decline the tablet. Look up. The building speaks for itself.

Shopping for lavender products inside the walls. The gift shops near the palace sell the same soap and sachets at tourist prices. If you want Provençal lavender, buy it at the Tuesday and Thursday brocante market outside Les Halles, or better yet, take a bus to Sault in season.

The "free" walking tours that end with aggressive tipping. Some are fine, some feel like hostage situations. The tourist office at 41 Cours Jean Jaurès offers genuinely free maps and advice. Use those and wander.

The Practical Stuff

Tourist Office: 41 Cours Jean Jaurès, 84000 Avignon. Open daily, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Free maps, WiFi, and Pass Avignon sales. The staff are patient and actually know the city.

Currency: Euro. ATMs are everywhere; use bank ATMs rather than random machines in tourist areas for better rates.

Tipping: Not required in France. Round up for good service at cafés, leave 5–10% at restaurants if you want, but don't stress about it.

Tap water: Safe and free. Ask for "une carafe d'eau" at restaurants—it's always free, and refusing bottled water saves you €3–5 per meal.

WiFi: Free at the tourist office, most cafés, and all hostels. Coverage is solid inside the walls.

Safety: Avignon is generally safe, but the area around the TGV station after dark can feel sketchy. Stick to well-lit streets, and don't flash expensive gear.

The Mistral: A wind that blows down the Rhône Valley, sometimes at 60+ km/h. It can appear suddenly, last for days, and make outdoor seating unpleasant. Pack a windbreaker even in summer. Locals will tell you it drives people mad, but also that it clears the sky and keeps the air clean.

Why Avignon Matters (and Why It Doesn't Have to Cost Much)

Avignon is proof that you don't need money to access greatness. The ramparts are free. The gardens are free. The ferry to the island, the water wheels, the street performances, the wind in your face on the half-bridge—all free. What costs money here is convenience and insulation: the private tour instead of the self-guided walk, the hotel with a view instead of the hostel rooftop, the restaurant with English menus instead of the market stall where you point and smile.

I've done this city four times now, always cheap, always differently. The first time, I slept in a dorm and ate bread and cheese for three days and spent €42 daily. The last time, I splurged on a private room and a proper restaurant lunch and still kept it under €80. Both trips were perfect. Both taught me that Avignon's real luxury isn't money—it's time. Time to walk slowly, to sit in the garden above the river, to let the city tell you what it was and what it still is.

The City of Popes, they call it. But I think of it as the City of Corners—every street turn reveals something: a fountain, a doorway, a café, a view. You don't need a Papal budget to find them. You just need to show up, walk, and look up occasionally.

James Wright has been getting lost in European cities on purpose since 2015. He believes the best travel advice comes from people who have actually slept in the cheap beds and eaten at the counter. He writes about doing more with less, and why "budget" doesn't mean "missing out."