How I Lost Three Days to Ghent: Drinking Jenever at Midnight, Hunting Street Art in the Dampoort, and Learning Why This City Refuses to Be Bruges

I came to Ghent for the Altarpiece and stayed for the grit. This is a city that looks like a Bruges knockoff on Instagram—canals, guild houses, medieval towers—but lives like a proper university town with an edge. The kind of place where you can stand before a Van Eyck masterpiece in the morning, drink jenever in a medieval cellar at midnight, and spend the afternoon hunting murals in working-class neighborhoods that tourists never reach.

Ghent doesn't perform for visitors. The historic center is undeniably beautiful—the Graslei quay is arguably the most photogenic street in Belgium—but the real character lives in the friction between that medieval perfection and the city's industrial past, its student energy, and its unusually tolerant approach to public art. You need both sides to understand it.

The locals have a saying: "Bruges is a museum, Antwerp is a port, and Ghent is a city." After three days here, I understood exactly what they meant.

The Medieval Core: Three Towers and a Castle

Ghent's skyline is dominated by three medieval towers in a straight line—a sight unique in Europe. Start at St. Michael's Bridge (Sint-Michielsbrug) around 7:30 AM before the day-trippers arrive. From here, you see all three aligned: St. Nicholas' Church, the Belfry, and St. Bavo's Cathedral. Morning light hits the guild house facades on the Graslei, and the canal is calm enough for mirror reflections. Bring coffee from Julie's House (Kraanlei 13; open 9:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sun; pastries €3-6) and claim the view before the tour buses arrive at 9:30.

Gravensteen Castle (Sint-Veerleplein 11; entry €13 adults, €10 students/seniors, free under 19; open 9:00 AM-6:00 PM, last entry 5:00 PM) is the Castle of the Counts, a fully restored 12th-century fortress built by Count Philip of Alsace. The audio guide (included, seven languages) takes 90 minutes, but allow two hours. Walk the ramparts for panoramic tower views, explore the armoury collection, and descend to the dungeon chambers. Spring mornings are best—the courtyard blooms with early flowers and the light on the ramparts is ideal for photography. The castle's history includes a dark period as a cotton mill and dilapidated ruin before its 19th-century restoration, which locals still debate.

St. Nicholas' Church (Sint-Niklaaskerk; entry free, donations welcome; open 10:00 AM-5:00 PM) is the oldest of the three towers, built in 13th-century Scheldt Gothic style. The interior vaulting and baroque high altar are worth the stop, but it's the exterior integration with the city fabric that matters—this church was built for merchants, not monarchs. Look for the trading houses built directly against its walls; the medieval church accepted rent from merchants who wanted to be near the religious heart of commerce.

The Belfry (Het Belfort; entry €8 adults, €6 students/65+; climb 366 steps; open 10:00 AM-5:30 PM, closed Jan 1 and Dec 25) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the symbol of Ghent's medieval independence. The view from the top encompasses the entire city and surrounding Flemish countryside. The 91-meter tower served as both watchtower and municipal archive—the iron chest where the city's charters were kept still sits in the upper hall. Listen for the carillon: 54 bells play automated melodies every quarter hour, and live recitals happen on Sundays at 11:45 AM.

St. Bavo's Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal; cathedral free, Altarpiece €16.50 adults, €8 students; open 8:30 AM-5:00 PM Mon-Sat, 1:00 PM-5:00 PM Sun) is the masterpiece of the three towers, blending Romanesque, Gothic, and baroque styles. But you come here for one thing: The Ghent Altarpiece (Adoration of the Mystic Lamb), painted by Jan and Hubert van Eyck in 1432.

This is not merely a painting—it is a revolution in art history. The polyptych represents the transition from medieval to Renaissance art, with the Van Eyck brothers perfecting oil painting techniques to achieve unprecedented luminosity. The central upper panel shows the Mystic Lamb on an altar, its blood flowing into a chalice, surrounded by worshippers from all corners of the earth. The panels were stolen seven times throughout history, most notably during both World Wars. One panel, "The Just Judges," was stolen in 1934 and never recovered—its location remains one of art history's great mysteries. A replica hangs in its place; the original theft spawned decades of conspiracy theories, ransom notes, and even a deathbed confession that led nowhere.

Book Altarpiece tickets online in advance, especially for spring weekends. The multimedia guide (included) provides essential context. Photography is prohibited; buy postcards in the cathedral shop (€2-4). Morning visits offer the best light on the panels, and weekday afternoons are quietest.

The Canals and the Graslei: Where Ghent Shows Off

The Graslei and Korenlei are arguably the most beautiful quays in Belgium. These 12th-century guild house rows along the Leie River create the postcard view that sells the city. The Graslei handled grain and agricultural products; the Korenlei was the center of the grain trade. The stepped gables and medieval facades are genuine—this isn't Disney architecture. The buildings are still owned by the original guilds, many of which trace their origins to the 11th century.

Ghent Boat Tours depart from the Graslei (€10 adults, €6 children ages 3-11; 50 minutes; departures every 30 minutes 10:00 AM-6:00 PM). Spring is the ideal season—trees are budding, light is soft, and the city's reflection shimmers in calm water. The route navigates through the medieval harbor, passing guild houses, the Gravensteen, and hidden gardens visible only from the water. Night cruises run in summer (€14; 8:00 PM and 9:00 PM) with illuminated buildings.

The Patershol is Ghent's most charming neighborhood—a maze of cobblestone streets, medieval houses, hidden courtyards, and artisan shops. Walk Kraanlei to the House of Alijn (Huis van Alijn; Kraanlei 65; entry €8 adults, €6 students; open 10:00 AM-5:00 PM Tue-Sun), a folk museum in a former almshouse with a quiet courtyard garden. The museum's collection of old shop interiors and traditional crafts gives you the Ghent of 100 years ago. Continue through Carmersstraat for antique shops, then to Oudburg, the Patershol's heart, where restaurants and cafes fill medieval buildings.

The Patershol rewards aimless wandering. Peek through open gates to discover hidden gardens. Look for the small plague chapel on Sluizeken, a reminder that this neighborhood once lay outside the city walls and bore the brunt of epidemics. The neighborhood shifts from residential quiet to restaurant buzz after 6:00 PM—plan accordingly.

Street Art: Where Ghent Gets Real

Ghent's approach to street art is unique in Europe. Rather than treating graffiti as vandalism, the city designated specific areas where artists can work legally. This policy, pioneered in 1996 with Werregarenstraat, created one of Europe's most dynamic street art scenes. The city now has over 100 documented murals, and the local government funds annual festivals that bring international artists to paint new walls.

Werregarenstraat (Graffiti Street; between Hoogpoort and Onderstraat; accessible 24/7, free) is a narrow alley where artists can paint without permission. The walls are repainted so frequently that no two visits are the same. Morning light creates dramatic shadows in the narrow passage—ideal for photography. The name comes from "werregare," local dialect for "to confuse"—appropriate for the sensory overload. Commissioned in 1996 as a legal graffiti zone, it was one of Europe's first official street art spaces.

The Dampoort District northeast of the center is Ghent's most concentrated street art zone. Large-scale murals cover entire building facades. Notable works include ROA's animal skeletons at the Ghent University Museum (GUM; Karel Lodewijk Ledeganckstraat 35)—four intersecting black-and-white skeletons created in 2020, described by the artist as one of his most complex walls. Nearby at Voetweg 6, A Squid Called Sebastian's "The Archive" shows a masked man crawling through papers, created in 2012 for the liberal workers' union building.

Other essential murals: Cee Pil's "The Lion's Den" at Prinsenhof 12 depicts a bear and lion intertwined, referencing the medieval zoo that once occupied the neighborhood where Emperor Charles V was born in 1500. Bisser's "Neuzekes and Cuberdons" at Berouw 128 (2017) portrays the city's famous "Candy War"—rival vendors selling conical sweets called cuberdons or "neuzekes" (little noses) have been known to physically fight over territory. The mural shows creatures made of the sweets in exaggerated battle.

Kitsune Jolene's "Listen to Your Momma, Darling" at Pekelharing 19 is a black-and-white fox and cub piece inspired by the artist's mother telling her to "just start painting." At Houtdoklaan 4, Dzia's giant purple octopus wraps around a shipping crane, created for the 2024 Asfalt Festival.

The city publishes a free street art map at the tourist office (Visit Gent, Veerleplein; open 9:00 AM-6:00 PM). A self-guided walking tour takes about three hours and covers six kilometers. Free guided street art tours leave every Saturday and Sunday at 2:00 PM from Backstay Hostel (Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 128; book online, tip-based). The Sorry Not Sorry collective organizes legal painting sessions year-round; their Instagram announces upcoming events.

Museums and Contemporary Culture

SMAK (Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art; Jan Hoetplein 1; entry €12 adults, €2 students under 26; open 10:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sun, closed Mon) is one of Europe's leading contemporary art museums. The collection includes works by Broodthaers, Panamarenko, and international artists. The brutalist building by Jean-Paul Vandenbroucke is itself a work of art—concrete, angles, and imposing scale that announces you're entering serious territory. The rotating exhibitions are the real draw; check the website for current shows.

MSK (Museum of Fine Arts; Citadel Park; entry €12 adults, €2 students; combined SMAK+MSK ticket €18; open 10:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sun, closed Mon) occupies a neoclassical building holding Flemish masters—Van Eyck, Rubens, Magritte—alongside modern Belgian art. The real advantage is location: Citadel Park is Ghent's largest green space, and after the museums you can walk through gardens with magnolias, cherry blossoms, and early rhododendrons. Entry is free on the first Sunday of each month.

STAM (Ghent City Museum; Godhuizenlaan 2; entry €12 adults; open 10:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sun, closed Mon) tells Ghent's story through interactive exhibits in a former abbey. The "Ghent Touchstone"—a giant aerial photograph you can walk on—is the highlight, but the building itself matters: this was a religious house converted to tell secular history, which is exactly Ghent's story in microcosm. The museum's courtyard café is a quiet retreat.

De Krook (Miriam Makebaplein 1; entry free; open 10:00 AM-10:00 PM Mon-Sat, 10:00 AM-9:00 PM Sun) is Ghent's futuristic public library and media center. The architecture is striking, and the rooftop terrace offers panoramic views. This is where the city's creative crowd works, reads, and meets—worth visiting to understand contemporary Ghent beyond the medieval core. The top-floor café serves excellent coffee (€2.50-4).

Eating and Drinking in Ghent

The Essential Dishes

Waterzooi is Ghent's signature dish—a creamy stew traditionally made with fish from the city's rivers, though chicken (kippenwaterzooi) became standard after river pollution. The key ingredients are leeks, carrots, celery, potatoes, cream, and egg yolk, creating a velvety broth. Try the traditional preparation at 't Vosken (Vlasmarkt 9; lunch €15-25, dinner €25-40; +32 9 224 21 30; open Tue-Sun) or the modern interpretation at Brasserie Pakhuis (Schuurkenstraat 4; lunch/dinner €25-45; +32 9 223 55 55; open daily).

Stoverij is Flemish beef stew, slow-cooked in Belgian beer (usually Oud Bruin or Trappist ale) until the meat falls apart. The sauce is thickened with gingerbread (peperkoek), giving it subtle sweetness. De Gekroonde Hoofden (Jan Breydelstraat 10; mains €18-28; open Wed-Mon) serves it in a traditional ceramic pot; 't Galgenhuisje (Groentenmarkt 5; mains €14-22; open daily) is a tiny historic tavern near the castle with an authentic version in a space that seats maybe 20 people.

Tierenteyn Mustard (Groentenmarkt 3; open 9:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sat, 10:00 AM-5:00 PM Sun) has been making mustard since 1790 to a secret recipe. The sharp, grainy mustard accompanies Ghent's hearty dishes perfectly. Buy a ceramic pot (€5-8) as a souvenir—it keeps indefinitely. The shop is barely wider than its counter; you squeeze in, buy your mustard, and leave. No browsing.

Cuberdons (neuzekes) are conical raspberry-flavored candies sold throughout the city. Vendors on Groentenmarkt and Vrijdagmarkt sell them from carts (€2-3 for a small bag). The "Candy War" between rival vendors is real—stalls have been known to sabotage each other, and the city had to regulate spacing between sellers.

Where to Eat

Oak (Coupure 22; dinner €45-65; book +32 9 330 18 04; open Tue-Sat dinner) is a Michelin-recommended restaurant in a renovated 19th-century townhouse. Chef Marcelo Ballardin creates innovative dishes using Flemish ingredients with Brazilian influences. The tasting menu (€75) changes with seasonal produce. This is a special-occasion meal.

Publiek (Oudburg 62; dinner €50-70; book +32 9 330 44 50; open Tue-Sat) occupies a former printing press with an open kitchen. Chef Olly Ceulenaere creates modern Flemish cuisine with global influences. This is where local food people eat when they want a serious meal. The five-course tasting menu (€85) is the way to go.

Aglio Olio (Kraanlei 19; dinner €25-40; +32 9 224 44 96; open Tue-Sun) is a cozy Italian restaurant in a medieval building with handmade daily pasta, exposed brick, and candlelight. Pure Patershol charm without the tourist markup. The pappardelle with wild boar ragu (€18) is worth the trip alone.

Frites Atelier (Groentenmarkt 20; lunch €8-15; open 11:00 AM-9:00 PM daily) is where chef Sergio Herman elevates Belgian fries to an art form. Double-fried, perfectly crispy, with gourmet sauces. The truffle mayo (€1.50 extra) is legendary. Stand at the counter or take to the nearby Graslei. Combo deals with croquettes start at €13.

De Graslei (Graslei 11; lunch €18-28, dinner €30-50; +32 9 225 06 80; open daily) sits in a 16th-century guild house with terrace directly on the water. The waterzooi (€24) is excellent, but the real draw is the view—boats glide past while you eat. Book terrace tables in advance for spring evenings.

Souplounge (Oudburg 37; lunch €10-16; open Tue-Sat 11:30 AM-3:00 PM) is a locals' favorite for creative soups, sandwiches, and salads in a bright, casual space. Perfect for a quick, quality lunch between sightseeing.

Where to Drink

Belgium's beer culture is UNESCO-recognized intangible heritage, and Ghent is one of the best places to experience it. The city has over 500 beers available, from centuries-old Trappist brews to experimental craft creations.

Dulle Griet (Vrijdagmarkt 50; open 4:00 PM-1:00 AM Mon-Thu, 4:00 PM-3:00 AM Fri-Sat, 4:00 PM-11:00 PM Sun; beers €4-7) is a famous beer bar with over 500 Belgian beers. The house specialty is Max—served in a giant 1.2-liter glass that requires surrendering a shoe as collateral (returned when you finish, hoisted to the ceiling by pulley). This is where you learn that Belgian beer is not a joke. The bar has been operating since 1984, and the shoe collection numbers in the thousands.

't Dreupelkot (Groentenmarkt 12; open 6:00 PM-1:00 AM Tue-Thu, 6:00 PM-3:00 AM Fri-Sat, 6:00 PM-11:00 PM Sun; jenevers €3-5) is a tiny jenever (Dutch gin) bar with over 200 varieties. The owner, Paul, is a Ghent institution who will guide you through tastings and share stories of the city's drinking culture. Jenever predates beer as Belgium's national drink—try aged varieties for complexity, or the fruit-infused versions (apricot and raspberry are excellent). The space holds maybe 15 people; arrive early on weekends.

De Alchemist (Oudburg 10; open 6:00 PM-2:00 AM Wed-Sun; cocktails €10-14) serves craft cocktails in a medieval cellar. Bartenders create custom drinks based on your preferences. The stone walls and low ceilings make it feel like drinking in a 15th-century basement, which is exactly what it is. Try their house gin and tonic variations (€11).

Stadsbrouwerij Gruut (Rembert Dodoensdreef 1; open 2:00 PM-8:00 PM daily; beers €4-6, tasting board €15) is Ghent's city brewery producing Gruut beer—a medieval style brewed with herbs instead of hops, as was standard before hops became dominant. The family-run brewery offers tours by reservation (minimum 2 people; €18 including tasting; book at [email protected] or +32 9 269 02 69). The blond and amber Gruut beers (€5) are unique to Ghent and worth seeking out.

Hot Club Gent (Schuddevisstraat 2; open 8:00 PM-late Thu-Sat; entry free, beers €3-5) is a basement jazz club with live music and no pretension. The kind of place where you order a beer and listen to musicians who play because they have to, not because it pays well. Check their Facebook for the week's lineup.

The Overpoortstraat is Ghent's student nightlife street—over 20 bars and clubs in one concentrated area. Thursday is student night; weekends bring a mixed crowd. Charlatan (Overpoortstraat 85; open 10:00 PM-late Wed-Sat; entry €5-8) is a legendary club with live music and dancing. Go here if you want to understand where Ghent's 70,000 students spend their evenings.

Day Trips and Extensions

Bruges is 25 minutes by train (return ticket €15.80; weekend tickets cheaper). Bruges is the fairy-tale postcard to Ghent's lived reality. See the Markt Square, climb the Belfort (€14), visit the Beguinage (Begijnhof; free), and walk the Minnewater. Catch the 5:30 PM or 6:00 PM train back. Brasserie Raymond (Oude Burg 23; mains €18-26) serves excellent mussels on a quiet square.

Antwerp is 50 minutes by train (€16 return). The Cathedral of Our Lady is the tallest church in the Low Countries with Rubens paintings (entry €12). The Diamond District processes 70% of the world's diamonds. The MAS Museum (€12) offers striking modern architecture with panoramic views. Antwerp is Belgium's fashion capital—home to the "Antwerp Six" designers.

The Flemish Countryside: Sint-Martens-Latem is an artists' village on the Lys River, home to the "Latem School" of painters. Reach it by bike (45 minutes from Ghent center) or De Lijn bus 38. Ooidonk Castle (Deinze; entry €12; open 10:00 AM-5:00 PM Apr-Oct) is a Renaissance castle surrounded by moats and gardens, especially beautiful in spring. Take the train to Deinze (20 minutes) and walk 20 minutes.

What to Skip

Dinner at chain restaurants on the Veldstraat—Ghent's main shopping street has the same international chains you'll find anywhere. The Patershol and Oudburg offer better food in more interesting spaces within a five-minute walk.

The Ghent canal cruise if you've already done Bruges'—Ghent's boat tour offers more history and depth; Bruges' is prettier but narratively thinner. Choose based on your priorities, not both. If you must pick one, Ghent's is more informative.

Groentenmarkt cuberdons from the pushiest vendor—the candy sellers here can be aggressive. Buy from the vendor who lets you browse in peace, or skip the carts entirely and get them at Tierenteyn's shop where they're sold in sealed bags without the hard sell.

The Bruges day-trip rush—most visitors try to squeeze Bruges into a single afternoon. Don't. If you're staying in Ghent, give Bruges a full day or skip it. A rushed three-hour Bruges visit means fighting crowds at the Belfort, eating overpriced waffles, and leaving wondering what the fuss was about.

Dulle Griet on Friday at 11:00 PM—unless you enjoy shoulder-to-shoulder crowds and a 20-minute wait at the bar. Go on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening when you can actually talk to the bartender about beer.

The 'historical' pubs on the Graslei—the terrace views are unbeatable, but the pubs themselves cater to tourists with inflated prices (€6-8 for standard beers) and indifferent service. Have one drink for the view, then move to Oudburg or Vrijdagmarkt for proper drinking.

The hop-on hop-off bus—Ghent's center is compact and flat. Walking between all major attractions takes 15 minutes maximum. The bus is redundant and traps you in traffic.

Logistics

Getting There

By air: Brussels Airport (BRU) is closest—45 minutes by direct train to Ghent St. Pieters (€16.50). Brussels South Charleroi (CRL) serves budget airlines; 1.5 hours by bus and train. Amsterdam Schiphol (AMS) connects via direct train in 2.5 hours.

By train: From Brussels (30-40 minutes, frequent), Bruges (25 minutes), Antwerp (50 minutes), Paris (2 hours via Thalys; book early for €29 fares), London (3.5 hours via Eurostar to Brussels, then connection).

By car: Ghent's center is pedestrianized. Park at Park & Ride facilities on the ring road (€3-5/day including tram into center). Reep, Sint-Pieters, and Expo are the main P+R lots.

Getting Around

Walking is the default—most attractions are within 15 minutes of each other.

Cycling is how locals move. Ghent has more cyclists than motorists in the center. Rent from Velo bike share (€4/day pass, first 30 minutes free per ride; download the Donkey Republic app) or De Fietsenmaker (Veldstraat 23; daily rentals from €12; open 9:00 AM-6:00 PM Tue-Sat). The city is flat and has dedicated bike lanes everywhere.

Tram connects the center with suburbs and St. Pieters station. Tickets are €2.50 from machines or the De Lijn app. A day pass is €7.50.

When to Go

March: 5-12°C, occasional rain, early blooms. Museums have shorter hours. Hotel prices are lowest.

April: 8-16°C, variable, peak blossom season. Cherry blossoms along the canals; magnolias on the Graslei. Ideal for photography. Book accommodation two weeks ahead.

May: 12-20°C, warmer days, longer evenings. The sweet spot—before summer crowds, after winter closure.

September-October: Crisp days, golden light, harvest season. Students are back, energy is high. Best time for beer festivals.

Avoid mid-July unless you specifically want the Ghent Festivities (Gentse Feesten, July 18-27, 2026), a 10-day cultural festival that attracts over 2 million visitors and transforms the city into a concentrated party. Accommodation books out months ahead and prices triple. The festival is genuinely spectacular—1,000+ performances across 700 locations, all free—but the city is unrecognizable.

Costs

CityCard Ghent: €38 for 48 hours or €42 for 72 hours. Includes entry to all major attractions, canal cruise, and public transport. Worth it if visiting three or more paid sites.

Meals: Breakfast €8-15, lunch €15-25, dinner €25-65. Beer €3-6. Coffee €2-4.

Accommodation: Budget €50-80/night, mid-range €100-150, luxury €200+.

Practical Notes

Languages: Dutch is official, but English is widely spoken. French is less common than in Brussels. Attempting a few Dutch phrases ("hallo," "dank u wel") is appreciated.

Tipping: Service is included. Round up or leave 5-10% for good service.

Dietary: Ghent pioneered "Donderdag Veggiedag" (Thursday Veggie Day). Many restaurants offer special vegetarian menus on Thursdays. Avalon (Beverhoutplein 10) and De Appelier (Kramersplein 13) are excellent plant-based options.

Safety: Ghent is generally very safe. Standard precautions apply in crowded areas. The student nightlife areas can get rowdy after midnight on weekends.

Sustainability: Ghent was named one of Europe's most environmentally conscious cities. Walk, cycle, or use trams. Tap water is excellent—avoid bottled water. The city center is pedestrianized and car-free on Sundays.

About Sophie Brennan

Sophie Brennan is a food writer and cultural historian based between Dublin and Brussels. She spent three years researching Flemish brewing traditions for her book The Lambic Belt and has written about Belgian food culture for The Irish Times, Condé Nast Traveler, and Lucky Peach. She believes the best way to understand a city is through its taverns, its markets, and the stories its bartenders tell after midnight. This is her twelfth guide for the collection.

Last updated: July 2026