Havana

Havana: Where the Past Refuses to Become a Museum — Culture, Cars, and Contradictions in Cuba's Capital

The first thing that hits you in Havana is the sound. Not the music — though that's everywhere — but the clack-clack-clack of dominoes on wooden tables, the arguments spilling from open windows, the diesel cough of a 1957 Buick that someone keeps alive with screwdriver ingenuity and black-market parts.